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Everything posted by Flyinfool
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Well they beat the sun and got the whole roof done on the first side. The crew chief said that there was 2 layers of shingles and 2 layers of roll roof under that. As for why the roof is getting done now. It was the roofs decision, not mine. The last storm peeled some shingles and created an unauthorized waterfall thru the ceiling plaster. The shingles are Owens Corning Oakridge. The number of spots that needed repair is not that bad on this first side, I expect the other side to be worse just because the roof looks to be in worse shape on that side. I'll have to try to get a pic of the house. It aint nuttin fancy just a little old house. But you will have to PM me your email cuz we can not do attachments to a PM.
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First side wood is done. Looks like around 75' used. First row of shingles are up. They have about an hour and a half till dark. With the snow tomorrow and holidays coming they will not be back to start the second side till Wednesday next week, weather permitting.
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I did the same as you except I used the trailer with the 8" wheels. I used a pressure treated ply deck. My topper is attached with 4 Eye bolts with a nut that is run up tight then a thick flat washer then a fender washer. this is run through a piece of scrap ply that is about 6" square. then thru the topper from the inside and finally thru the deck. I have a fender washer, thick flat washer and a nylon lock nut to finish on the bottom. the 4 eye bolts on the inside come in handy to tie things down when it is not packed solid with stuff. On my topper there is a channel that was for the original mounting system that is about 4" wide and 1/2 deep, I used another piece of ply scrap to fill that in so that the bottom would be fully supported. I am going to put in a piece of rubber backed outdoor carpet to also help stuff from sliding around.
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I am having a new roof put on. They started today. Now that they have half of the roof off It is totally apparent that the builder of the house back in 1890 was a pinhead. The roof deck boards just end where they end, the next board butted up and on they went. The joints between boards are not centered on the rafters. When they got to the end of the roof they took whatever the cutoff was and butted it up against the next board. Even if the cut off was not long enough to reach 2 rafters, there are many spots where both ends of a board are floating and it is just nailed to ONE rafter in the middle of the board, it tips when pressure is applied to either end.:doh: Of course as to be expected the bottom 2 boards are rotten. But I had expected that with a 120 yo house that had 3 layers of roof on it. The contractor gave me 3 choices. 1. Tear off all the wood and redeck. $5,000 2. Cover the whole roof with 1/4 OSB to give a flat solid nailing surface. $2,500 3. Repair all of the loose ends with new boards at $5.00 per foot installed. Estimate of 100-300 feet. How many total repairs will be needed will not be known till the other half of the roof is torn off. $500 - $1,500. The budget is tight on this job so I went with option 3. I hope I did the right thing, or at least not to bad of a thing.
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The schematic shown above is for a 1st Gen MKII, using the connector left by removing the RLU. The hand drawn diagram above will work for a 2nd gen. The LED used is a Radio Shack P/N 276-312
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Oh yippie Gas just went from $3.03 to $3.40 overnight.
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We'll save some snow for when you get here.......
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Replacing brake lines per maintance schedule recomendations.
Flyinfool replied to dingy's topic in Watering Hole
Heck the line above that one says to replace the seals in the master and slave cylinders every 2 years. I'll bet no one does that either. I guess it is time to call Earl.... -
If you are blinding people that bad then your light is adjusted to high. Most people that cheap out and not get the Bi-xenon, set the beam to high to compensate for not having a hi beam. You are then effectively running hi beam all the time and blinding oncoming traffic. Just get the correct bulb so that you can keep a hi and lo beam both aimed correctly like the bike was designed for.
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The 6K will probably match the color of your LEDs the best. As for lighting up the road, either the 5K or 6k will be best. You loose some light with either a higher or lower temperature color. You definatly want to get a BI-Xenon setup. You do not want to give up Hi beam. You will want to add a relay and a switch to be able to have the light off for starting the bike. The HID has a protection circuit that will shut off the light if the voltage drops to 9V or lower while cranking. You then have to turn the light off to reset it.
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Some guys just have all the luck............ :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2:
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Just go to the blur bar at the top of this thread and click on "Thread Tools" and then "Subscribe to this thread" There will be a list of all of the threads that You subscribe to in the "User CP"
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I think Santa left Big Tom some nice pretty SNOW for Christmas. I seem to remember him asking for it......... Santa has not made it here yet..... I must have been a bad boy with all of my , and , and . Maybe he is just running a little late
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I am very happy that I have seen no mention of the wbc loonies on the news. Maybe if they get zero media time they will just go away. After all it is the attention they are after, and to see if they can get someone to tweak their "rights" so they can file a big lawsuit, that is how they fund themselves. GOD forbid they should go out and get an honest job.
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These might help
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seeking a comprehensive explanation--cm'on ladies chime in
Flyinfool replied to Mel's topic in Watering Hole
Right there is your problem. I just 6 words you have contradicted yourself. Sometimes you have to work for the answer, I just keep asking the same question over and over till the question I asked gets answered. Sometimes I have to but eventually my point gets thru. -
What I got is basic survival skills, a full tank of gas to get me far from the cities, and a lot of ammo to shoot game for food. I'll take my chances in the wilderness where I will not have to fight off those that want what I have. New normal or not, I might still just do this some day.
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$3.05 this morning. The snow storm had no effect on the gas price. Kic, while you are out riding, my PMS has me home with my honey, snuggled up close to generate heat, and dealing with whatever comes up.....
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Actually that little bit of energy that the fan uses is still making heat. The fan motor will get warm and is air cooled so that heat energy is still getting into the room. The friction in the shaft bearing will turn to heat and that heat will still be in the room. The friction of the air molecules against the blades and other things that the moving air hits will also generate heat from the friction. So all of that energy still ends up in the room. Visible light is still a form of energy. As long as it is not allowed out a window or door it will still strike something in the room and generate heat. So you can really say that an electric heater is 100% efficient. ALL of the electrical energy is released into the room. But just because it is 100 percent efficient does not make it cheaper to run than a 90% efficient heat source that uses a different, less expensive, source of energy.
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Well it depends on just how you spin that........ I take it as a compliment when I kill a thread by my last post, It means that my answer / opinion was absolutely complete and correct and there is nothing more that can be added to or possibly contradict or even have a differing opinion of what I have said. There are those that know what they are talking about and agree with me, and then there are the others........
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Well you have 5 hours till midnight to get here.......... Oh and it not running........ And we have a blizzard happening...... And the airport is closed..... See ya soon??
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Well maybe half of the people would welcome me aboard......
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