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Showing results for tags 'wheel'.
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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkEdcR0D1E4]YouTube - Big Wheel - Mad Dog Cycles[/ame]
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Hey folks- an odd thing I think I noticed; perhaps somebody can clear it up for me. I'm fairly new to the Venture (just upsized out of a 750 Vulcan last summer) but not to motorbiking. Can somebody tell me; were there optional colors for the wheel rims somewhere along the MKI-MKII line? In the owner manual and in several of the photos I've seen on the site here, it looks like the circumferential rim (except the outer lip and machined spoke faces) is black. A few owners seem to have had theirs powder coated or otherwise painted to match custom paintjobs on their fairings, etc. And then there's mine- the whole wheel (again, excluding the actual machined surfaces) is more of a matte silver finish that looks like what you'd have from beadblasting aluminum. When I took delivery of my 93 in July last year it was quite dirty so I spent a fair amount of time with a 3M wheel on the die grinder trying to clean it up good, but it didn't look like the wheels had ever been black before. Any idears? Just curious- I didn't do any real research on it because I know the fine folks here will answer in short order anyway.
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With tire changer I made. Have had for long time auto changer simular or same as HF. pic 1 Only permement mod was to weld a 5/8 nut to top. pic 2 Cut hex to fit 5/8 nut in 1/4 plate and welded to old 14-15 auto rim(anti rotation). pic 3 Just set rim over nut on stand. pic 4 Tread 5/8 all thread into nut to tight(notice hole at top for screwdriver shaft). pic 5 Another piece of 1/4 plate with 5/8 hole and 5/8 jam nut secures auto rim to stand. pic 6 Split rubber tube on edge of auto rim protects MC wheel. pic 7 MC wheel placed down all tread. pic 8 5/8 washer and another nut secures MC wheel to auto rim/stand. pic 9 Piece of plastic water pipe protects all thread-threads when tire spoons pried against. pic 10 Final view. pic 11 Also built balancer with lumber. Appears to work, same spot of existing tire/wheel always stops same. Now I just need to commit to do it.
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Just before I take out the rear wheel on my 2000 RSV (18,000 miles) does anyone have any last minute tips for re-greasing etc anywhere important while the back is broken down like this, and is there any way of checking if the rear shock has gone once its off the bike. There dos not appear to be any oil leak etc. Oh and next time I need to take off the reare wheel I'm going to use Dons method of front whell off, drop the nose and then off with the rear (if it works for RSV 2nd gens). Its taken two days on and off to get the rear wheel clear. Thanks for all your tips... oh the reason for this strip is to thry and stop the bad sqweek from the rear shock everytime I take it off the centre stand.
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So....if you remove the insert from the wheel can the needle bearings fall out or are they caged to prevent this happening? Thanks...............
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Is it possible to remove the rear wheel on a 2nd Gen venture with a side car still attached? If so, what is the procedure?
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I'm not familiar with ATV's (4 wheeler), so I've been looking to buy a used ATV, but would like to know from an owners experience what the best bang for the buck is. I'm looking for something between 400-650cc for trails, for cruising along on a frozen lake, general use, etc... Preferably a 4 wheel drive, locking front axle and still hopefully light enough to pull out of a bog. Maybe around 2-4k? What makes, years, models, mileage, etc should I stay away from? Any thoughts / guidance would be appreciated. Thanks,
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ABOUT 10" SO FAR. THE'RE CALLING FOR ANOTHER 8 OR SO BY THE MORNING. ...DID MY DRIVEWAY TWICE THIS AFTERNOON AND ITS NOT LETTING UP !!! TATERS AND I HAD TO GO TO A WAKE THIS EVENING...WHAT A NASTY DRIVE EVEN IN 4 WHEEL DRIVE.....JUST PLAIN DANGEROUS OUT THERE...DID I EVER TELL YOU GUYS HOW MUCH I HATE WINTER. ................................ JUST HAD TO VENT
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My wife and I are on vacation, and just pulled into my daughter's in Mufreesboro TN.--500 miles more to get home. The last couple of days, I've been hearing strange noises from the rear end and brakes, mostly from the rear end when you decellerate moderately and the rear end is hot. I put in on the center stand and this time (I"ve checked it several times) I felt side to side plaly in the rear wheel. When I pulled the cotter key and tried to tighten the axle (I also loosened the axle cinch bolt) I found it was about 1/2 turn loose. I tightened it and still had the play. I decided to pull the rear wheel and see what's wrong. I can't get the axle to move. I usually just put a phillilps scredriver in the 2 holes on the right side and twist and pull the axle right out. This time I can't budge it by turning it OR hitting it soundly on the left side. I've got the cinch bolt completely out, and I've driven in a wedge to open up the axle clamp. It won't move. I've read here where one guy had the axle worn apart. I'll be mine is started down that path. How can I get it out???? Frank
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as i understand it, on the '99 and up models, there is a "transmission whine", AND a "chirp". i understand the "square cut gears" causing the whine, but WHERE is the chirp coming from? is it maybe the final drive not set correctly with relation to the rear wheel pins? can the rear wheel installation be altered to get rid of the chirp? like maybe in the wrong position in lining up the pins? just curious, i don't know squat about these new fangled bikes. just jt
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I plan on going to the darkside next summer. I ordered an extra wheel so that if I didn't like it I could just change back with no problem. I like having a spare rear wheel anyway. I ordered it from http://www.pinwallcycle.com/ and received it yesterday. The wheel was is great shape for a used wheel and it only took four days for delivery. I paid $89 plus 33 shipping and the tire on the wheel looks brand new. It's a dunlop 404 so I'm not sure if I will run it or sell it. I heard the 404 is not that good of a tire for our bike. Anyway if your looking for used parts they are a very good source.
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Is there a trick to get the hub splines to line up with the wheel? I cant get it to slide on.
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Jrichard rolled up yesterday and spent the night after helping me but the bike back together (new tire). Even had a scary and embarrassing moment when we thought a needle injector for the grease gun snapped off while shooting some Moly 60 into the rear wheel bearings. After carefully prying off the rubber seal and poking through the bearing assembly looking for the needle we discovered that the needle didnt break off, only pushed back into the grease gun. Ok, I was the guilty party...so shoot me. But it was a relief that it didnt fall into the bearing basket. Got the wheel up, put the stock mufflers back on. The open HD muffs were beginning to drive me crazy. Took the bike for a ride and with the stock muffs it sure felt more responsive. Also dumped some star tron gas treatment in and mileage increased by 25 milles on the tank. Got up this Am and we all (J, Jean and myself) headed down to Daytona, riding A1A down to hook up with Coach and his wife from Ohio (Ron and Linda Wise) and their friends from NY, George and Jacki on a HD trike. We headed to US-1 Restaurant (formerly the Sly Fox) for some good eats and some good reminiscing then headed out for different venues. J and I headed to Main Street which was filling up. We parked and started walking down Main St when we saw an RSV. I asked who owned it and whether he was a member here and he looked at me funny and said he remembered me from when I synced his carbs. It was Mainiac. Small world. Gave a card to another RSV rider so maybe he will check out the site. We strolled around a little then J went off to parts unknown and we headed home, back up A1A. Stopped in Flagler Beack for some Working Cow ice cream and enjoyed the ocean view and perfect 80 temps. Couldnt have asked for a nicer day.....too bad, back to work tomorrow.....
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Hi all - Read all the posts about the wheel chocks and most deal with Harbor Freight. Anyone hear of this one? Or use it? A bit pricey but apparently adjustable for width. http://steadymate.com/us/product/20/68/steadymate-motorcycle-wheel-chock.html
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does anyone need a rear wheel assy its new can be bought cheap retail is$684.88 been asking $400 make me an offer. Also we have a set of saddlebags for a 1500 gold wing these are used let me know if anyone is interested!!!
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well, not quite trailer, sidecar really. My leaning sidecar came originally with a 480x8 wheel with integral hub, I am upgrading this to a separate hub and wheel combo from Northern Tool. Here's the rub, when I install everything there is a hump like you would have on a spoke wheel with the spokes adjusted wrong. If the swingarm is somehow not perfectly even, would the tire not still track straight albeit under an angle Am I correct in assuming that if the hub is cast incorrectly the whole wheel would run under an angle? Could the wheel rim be warped? What would the effect of this (sideways) wobble be at high speed with this size tire? I am trying to get the side car back on the bike and run it before next weekend's March on Rome, so I am kind of pushing on this to get it re-attached and aligned. Thanks for any feedback! And have a great Labor Day weekend!!
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Well, after servicing my bike, I've run across a potential issue. When I pulled the drive shaft out of the swingarm to check the upper splines, a coil of metal was wrapped around it. Looked like the coils that spin out of steel when it is drilled. I had a look up the drive shaft tunnel and all looked well...no leaks and everything in place...as far as I could tell. After all was back together, it seemed to be running just as it should...until the rumble started. The description is somewhat typical of what has been described before; quiet with power on, a low rumble on deceleration, somewhat quieter with the clutch in. Being the paranoid type...I'm going to have to discover what the hell this noise is. What I've done so far is slip the swingarm boot back to look at the yoke. The bolt is in place so that shaft isn't broken. There is no detectable in or out play in the output shaft. There is very little rotational play in the mesh with the drive gear, (as gauged by slowly turning the shaft and listening for the tiny click when the gears touch). Total slack in the drive system with the bike in first is about 2 inches, measured at the wheel. With the bike in neutral on the center stand, the rear wheel spins easily, without resistance or binding. When I roll the wheel forward by handd, (which dynamically puts the same forces on the system as deceleration), I can feel a slight rumble which feels like gears meshing somewhat roughly. It smooths out when rolling the wheel backwards. With a stethoscope, I pinned down that the rumble is coming from the pumpkin, not the middle shaft. So now I'm going to try a few things. Tonight I will loosen the 4 nuts holding the pumpkin to the swingarm and see if there is enough movement to realign the shaft a bit. If that fails, I will remove the pumpkin completely to check for play. (When I had the pumpkin off to service the rear end, I pulled the shaft out of the pumpkin. The seal came with the shaft, completely intact so it was reusable. The input shaft stayed with the pumpkin indicating that the shaft was also intact.) I'll basically have a good poke around and see what's what. I'm hoping for an easy fix but am prepared for tears and pouting. Attached are some pics of a strange bit of metal I found wound around the shaft when I pulled it from the swingarm. I have no idea where it's from....I'll have a better look when I'm in there again...unless it fixes itself then it will have to wait until the snow blows. -
I am looking for a set of Chrome disk that fit on the back wheel of the 2nd generation Venture. I understand that at one time Yamaha made them does anyone know where a fellow could get there hands on some. They bolt on to each side of the wheel thourgh the holes in the bottom of the spoke on the wheel. Short-Haul said that he picked up a set on Ebay but there are none on there now. let me know if you have a set or know where to get a set.
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Guys, I would really like to find someone who has a front wheel for a 2nd gen that I could run while I am having mine Chromed. I would pay for shipping. I would like to find one close to Oklahoma if possible I will just need it about 5 weeks. I am also checking salvage yards but I really don't want to but one. It cost 275.00 to have your wheel chromed and takes 4 weeks or you can exchange for 400.00 so if shipping is 25.00 ea way and I could save about 50.00 to 75.00 that is worth a little trouble. Other wise I will prolly just wait for winter.
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I've found a couple articles in here about greasing the rear splines and some hub pins... Will this be obvious when I take the rear wheel off? This will be my first time doing this kind of maintainance on a bike- but I've been doing more and more and seem to have managed to not break/ruin anything yet. So when I take off the rear wheel (and I need to get a tire, too), do I also need to remove the pumpkin/differential?? Or is the stuff I need to grease all back there? Also, do I need to replace some kind of oil seal when I just remove the rear tire, or is that only when I remove the pumpkin? Sorry for the newbish questions... I'm kind of a motorcycle maintenace virgin. Is there a pictoral wolk-through of this whole thing I should do when I have the tire off? -
The dealer that did my Hannigan trike used a rake of 4 1/2 degrees.Hannigan, in Murray Ky, uses a rake of 6 degrees. Does the 1 1/2 degrees make a difference in the steering.All trikers chime in.
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Have I missed something, or do I not have a clue about how to pack the bearings? This is on a Harbor Freight Tag-Along trailer. Took off the dust cover, removed the cotter pin, removed the castle nut and flat washer. Wiggled the wheel a little bit and the bearing moved towards me. I pulled out the bearing. This is a tapered roller bearing. I packed it full of good Lucas Oil wheel bearing grease. I reinstalled the bearing, flat washer and nut. Adjusted the torque on the nut , installed the cotter pin. I am confused about the posts about seals, etc. Am I not going far enough into the wheel? Is there more than one bearing per wheel? I just want to make sure the bearing is properly greased.
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Hello. I am putting on my new set of Dunlop E3's. Have the rear wheel off and want to grease everything Im supposed to BUT Im wondering if I can use either of these two products I already have? I also discovered I need brake pads so Im done for the night. I hope my local dealer stock them? http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9EMyKcng_yA/TDZi98dgwrI/AAAAAAAADt0/-8EgarEAQp8/s640/IMG00131.jpghttp://lh6.ggpht.com/_9EMyKcng_yA/TDZi-PunMfI/AAAAAAAADt4/ImK2wgef3P8/s640/IMG00132.jpg -
That 2 wheel combo removal system works pretty slick; thanks to the guy who posted this idea years ago; I finally got a chance to try it out with 2 new tires going on today.
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if you have an 1800 wing and need a new rear tire. check ebay i bought a brand new wheel and tire mounted and balanced, new swingarm, rear end, and disc with caliper for $ 227.00 plus shipping. i calculated the total new cost at over $3000.00. russleville honda does trike conversions and have a pile of them all the time. tom, you may want to pick one up when you get your bike. it gives you a brand new tire and wheel ready to mount when you need it.
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