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Showing results for tags 'rear'.
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anybody know what the ebc part # for a 86 front a rear brake pads ?
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Yesterday I finally got around to re-packing my Bub mufflers. When I did the HD fishtail mod I found that all of the original packing had long gone and with the new tips there was now a 1/4" gap all around the rear baffle plate. I found this packing on e-bay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20-x-38-MOTORCYCLE-EXHAUST-MUFFLER-PACKING-WRAP_W0QQitemZ140148216528QQihZ004QQcategoryZ35573QQcmdZViewItem I pulled the baffles back out and I was able to use 1/2 of a sheet and get about 3 wraps on each baffle. I used some high heat RTV silicone to fill the gap left around the rear baffle plate. The muffs now have a deeper tone and are a lot quieter when cruising but still sound good when getting on the throttle. Here's a link to the post about the HD fishtail install. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=114428#post114428
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Dear Yamaha, It is okay to do a little parts bins raiding to update the Venture. Really! Here's some suggestions. Simply take the item or idea and adapt it to the RSV. Some will bolt on, some may need a few tweaks. (you can borrow my hammer) It should actually be quite simple to do it. In fact, give me a week at your factory with all the parts available and I'll put it together for you. Here's my list. (cut-n-pasted from your site) Take from... The Stratoliner: ~ ...Computer-controlled, {twin-bore}, fuel-injection monitors multiple engine parameters to calculate perfect mixture under all conditions; wide-angle 12-hole fuel injectors provide excellent atomization. ~ Exhaust Ultimate Power valve (EXUP) inside the two-into-one exhaust system boosts torque in the 2500-3000-rpm range. ~ 12-spoke wheels evoke a thick spoke look, but carry modern tubeless radial tires; a 130/70-18 front and a fat 190/60-17 rear. ~ Position beams within the main headlight housing provide great visibility. ~ Left-thumb operated high-beam switch, and right-thumb activated accessory driving light switch for great visibility. ~ Bright multi-reflector headlight, LED taillight and amber turn signals behind clear lenses give a custom look. ~ Oxygen sensor and three-way catalyst reduce emissions. ~ Sidebags detach easily for cleaning. The Warrior: ~ Super-rigid 41mm Kayaba inverted telescopic fork in beefy, cast-aluminum triple clamps gives 5.3 inches of travel for exceptional sport-oriented performance. ~ Link-type, preload and rebound adjustable single shock delivers outstanding rear-wheel tracking for precise handling and plush ride quality. ~ Dual 298mm front disc brakes and radial-mount four-piston calipers and a 282mm rear disc combine for incredible, supersport-spec stopping power. ~ Braided stainless clutch and throttle cables. (Do the brakes while you're at it.) The NEW Raider: ~ Wiring harness uses lightweight AVSS wires, and switchgear wiring is routed inside the handlebar for a clean appearance. The FJR1300: ~ Standard equipment Unified Braking System w/ABS: The front brake lever activates six of the eight front braking pistons and one rear piston; the rear brake pedal activates one rear piston and the other two front pistons—for balanced anti-lock braking in all conditions. Most don't really care about new colors. We'd like some new technology from your flagship. Also...it still has a cassette player?!? Now, you've got all these parts. Most could be easily adapted (i.e. head & tail lights!) Thanks for your time. Keep just changing colors on the RSV and you'll not get anymore of mine, though...or my money.
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I have been reading about the noises coming from the rear end drive pins and I would like to take mine apart to grease things up, are there specific instructions for doing this or can I just wing it?
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1999 RSV How does a guy make the rear blinkers act as another running light on these things? Thanks for any help. Ross -
Question: has anyone tried going to a smaller rear tire? I believe the rear is a 90 series. Has anyone even seen a 15 inch 70 or 60 series rear tire. and then for those of you that have tried this, how badly did it affect the top end on the freeway? thanks in advance. -
At exactly 64-68 mph, I get a clack-clack-clack sound from the right rear of bike. Approx. 120 times per minute. Can't find anything loose, speed specific, don't have anyone to ride next to me. It only does it at these speeds. Any ideas? New me880's w/2k on them, no bumps noticible on rear tire. I'm stumped!!! Thanks, Dan
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Ok I finally made it to the dealer and bought the two rear bearings for the 83 Venture,By looking at the packages they look older than me and the grease is all caked and the grease has the old smell to it ,so I'M going to clean these tomorrow at work and repack them. Going to use Black Moly grease with a grease needle on these bearings is this good enough for them or is there some other grease that works better especially on the Cylindrica bearing?Any special way of repacking the cylindrica brg. Thanks buddy
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unified rear brake: doesn't touch front disc
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Okay, I've noticed after some pretty lengthy rides, my left front disc plate is cool as a ice on my 83 venture. First thought is that the brakes aren't working up there (the rear foot pedal controls both rear and front left brakes). Is there and adjustment in the system somewhere? I'm not familiar with these rear and front combined units. I tried finding it in the manual , but I see no adjustments. Maybe air in the line? Doesn't make sense. -
I have posted several times in the past about the trouble I have had with the rear end of my 05 venture. Yamaha replaced the rear diff three times within about 2,000 miles. I had already had the rear diff replaced once before that. I left my bike at the dealer saturday for the 24,000 mile service. The service manager just called and said the rear pinyon was worn out so yamaha is sending another rear diff and a new drive shaft. What's up with the rear ends with these bikes? This will be the fourth rear diff within about 8,000 miles.
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One of these days I will get new tires. This is not a question about what brand of tire to get - it is about how the tire is described. My manual for the 87 VR calls for 120/90-18 for the front and 140/90-16 for the rear. Currently there are 491 Elite II on the bike, and the front has MR90-18 71H. I think the rear has a MT or MU. What the heck does MR or MT or MU or 71H mean? is a MT90-16 the same as a MU90-16? They are listed separately and have different prices.
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Attached is the tech artical from Yamaha for how to fix the noise in your rear wheel and how to align your rear axle . It also tell how to grease the fingers in your rear wheel the right way. Hope this helps everyone. Don if you want you can add this to your tech section for thr VEnture and the RSTD. Later -
The other thing I got done today was adding the proportioning valve to my rear brakes. This is a modification that Rick Butler came up with to make the rear braking on these bikes a bit less sensitive. This is another easy modification if you get the parts from Rick as I did. I did take pictures of the installation and will try to get a tech article posted tomorrow. Basically what this is though is a mini proportioning valve. You simply remove the rear brake line and screw this proportioning valve right into the rear brake master cylinder. You then install the new stainless steel line between the proportioning valve and your rear brake caliper. Bleed the brake and you are done with the install. The proportioning valve is adjustable. Rick sent it calibrated the same as the one on his bike and for initial testing purposes, I left it there. These things are hand adjustable and very easy to change. The first thing I did when I got a little ways down the road was to see if I would lock up the rear brake. Yep, I still can. It took more pressure than before the modification though and that is what I was looking for. To be honest, I think it actually still locked up easier than I want it to but like I said in another post, it has rained here off and on all day so it was really not a good time to be testing it. I am pretty much convinced though that this is going to end up being one of the top modifications available for our bikes when it comes to safety. Hopefully things will dry out around here a bit before the weekend is over and I can do some better testing. I may adjust it down a bit more so that it is even less sensitive yet but when I get on truly dry roads, I may find it to be fine just as it is. -
I'm doing some work on the old bike and have cleaned all the plastic connectors with connection cleaner crc . Now my rear turn signals do not work no light at all no turn flash either. The fronts light up but do not flash for a turn. I do not have power to the rear plastic connectors either side that go to the rear signals. Any ideas where to look maybe a another connector up towards the front? Thanks Jim.
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Does anybody have any suggestions on how to turn off this thing? I've got new pads front and rear, new rear rotor, new prestone 3 fluid, no air, lots of brake power. I still cant get the light to go out.Although it doesnt really bother me, I would rather the thing come on and tell me if there was a real problem.
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Need a little help. Changed left rear exhaust donut, got it back together, checked plugs, all tan on porcelain. Has been sputtering at idle, pulled off the breather, upon rev up and back down, am getting a backfire (fuel, no fire) from the left rear cylinder. Doesn't do it constantly, only once per blip. Pulled plug wires one at a time, LR doesn't make much change, LF is definate miss, RF is questionable, same as rear. Doesn't seem to affect operation, pulls good with a good twist of the right wrist, even with rider on back. Doesn't seem like a clean burn out of the exhaust, either. It just feels like it is missing. Oh, also have gas on under side of breather box on left side, can't find source. Not dripping, just coated. 1 more thing, changed stator and regulator, is 14.6 at the battery too high? I have a couple spare regs to try. Help is appreciated. Will be back shortly, going back into garage to put plastic back on. Thanks in advance, Dan
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I have managed to get my left rear fairing off without any problems but can't get the right side to budge. Have read threads on taking off front fairing and seat but not much on rear fairings. Do I need to take off the seat to get at the 'hangers' for the rear fairings or do they sometimes get rusted in a stubborn? Didn't want to break the snap off trying to get it off... Thanks James
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I'm about to go on a 3000 mile trip, but my rear Avon Venom has 10,500 miles on it. The rear tread depth is currently 2.9mm, or .115 inches. When new the same spot on the tire had a tread depth of .350 inches, or 8.89 mm. To me this is right on the edge of being able to get me home, and I'm leaning toward a replacement before I leave. Anybody have the mileage numbers on their Avon Venom rear tire they would like to share?
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Brought my bike home last night after having the new rear shock installed, a new rear Avon Venom X and the regular 28k mile service, which included Carb Sync and steering bolt tightening. I didn't realize how bad my bike has been handling. :crying:The shock must have been going bad for awhile. Also, recently I had noticed a little shake of the bars and slow speed handling degradation, so I asked them after the service if the steering head bolt was loose and it was by almost a half turn. I feel like I'm riding a new bike again. Haven't checked to see what air is in the shock yet or the tire pressure, but plan to do that tonight. But just how it is right now is a HUGE improvement. I just can't believe it is such a difference:confused24: I can't wait to get out and ride Friday Morning. Its amazing how fabulous these bikes are! when everything is up to par. -
I am thinking of purchasing this air compressor, http://www.slime.com/product.php?product=40001, and mounting it in my saddle bag. I thought I could hot wire it with a fuse and a switch on the handle bars or fairing and a gauge and release valve so I could adjust the air in the rear shock while riding (just in case the road conditions change. Has anyone done this or does anybody have any advice?
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Just wondering if anyone has a rear brake pedal laying around that would fit a 99 Venture. It does not matter if the arm is bent some. I would like to experiment with adding to the pedal to make it a little longer. Thanks. I'm going to check ebay as well. Spotsy
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VMAX Rear End Swap by: Don Nelson Shortly after purchasing my Royal Star Venture in 1999, I realized that 5th gear on these things are very high. At the time, I just accepted it but after a recent trip to Colorado riding two up, pulling a trailer and fighting some heavy headwinds, I made up my mind that I was going to look seriously for a solution. On that trip, I did a little experiment. First I asked a rider of a first gen Venture what kind of RPMs he was running at 70 MPH. He replied that he was running right at 4,000 RPM. When we got back on the road, I checked my tach only to discover that I was actually running exactly 4,000 RPM in 4th gear. When I shifted to 5th, the RPMs went down to about 3200 RPM and I felt that I was really lugging the engine with the load I had and running 70 MPH. So, for a full tank of gas I stayed in 4th gear and was running the 4,000 RPMs. At the next gas stop, I checked with Bob Dakin as to how much gas he put in. Bob also rides an RSV and was running in 5th gear. It turns out that he and I need the exact same amount of gas even though I had been running in 4th gear. I knew then that the only reason I would have used the same gas as him was because that in 4th gear, I was staying in the power band of the engine, not lugging it. Upon returning home, I sent John Furbur and email and found that he does offer a VMAX rear end swap for the RSV. A few days later, my new rear end arrived in the mail and was installed a couple of days later. After getting the rear end installed and taking the bike for a test run, I am pleased to say that it does exactly what I hoped it would. I am now running about 500 RPM higher in every gear. In 5th gear, I now run 3600 RPM rather than the previous 3100 RPM. This is a good compromise between the 4,000 RPM that I had run in 4th gear and the 3100 that I had previously run in 5th. I have not yet had time to take a long enough trip to check the gas mileage again but I really expect to see an improvement when riding two up and especially when pulling a trailer also. Regardless of the fuel mileage though the increase in performance of the bike is enough that I am even willing to sacrifice a couple MPG if that is the case. I have tried various exhausts, K&N filters and the Dyna 3000 Ignition module but none of those have come close to giving me the performance increase as this rear end swap. I promised to do a write-up on the install so here it is. The truth is though, if you have ever pulled your rear end to lubricate the drive shaft, then you have really already done this job. You simply replace the stock rear with the VMAX rear. Very simple job. Since there are already instructions posted for removing the rear wheel, I will start this procedure at the point where the saddle bags, rear wheels and mufflers have already been removed. So here we are at that point. The first thing you will want to do is drain the rear end. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1399%20%28Small%29.jpg Remove the one screw that secures the speedometer sensor to the rear end. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1401%20%28Small%29.jpg After the screw is removed, the speedo sensor just pulls out. There is an O-Ring so you have to pull on it fairly hard. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1402%20%28Small%29.jpg Remove the 4 acorn nuts that secure the rear end to the drive shaft tubes. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1403%20%28Small%29.jpg Slide the rear end off. The drive shaft will come out with the rear end. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1404%20%28Small%29.jpg Here is the assembly removed. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1405%20%28Small%29.jpg You then need to pull the drive shaft out of the rear end. There is nothing it in except for an 0-Ring so you have to pull on it fairly hard but it will come out. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1406%20%28Small%29.jpg There is a spring inserted in the rear end that you will need to remove and insert into the new rear end. It just pulls off so pull it off and install on the new one. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1407%20%28Small%29.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1409%20%28Small%29.jpg While you have the drive shaft out, now is the time to grease it up before putting it all back together. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1410%20%28Small%29.jpg Install the new rear end with drive shaft. It is recommended that you now install the rear axle, without the wheel, and do the rear end alignment as outlined in the Yamaha TSB. This procedure can be found here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705 http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1412%20%28Small%29.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1413%20%28Small%29.jpg Now is a great time to grease the rear drive pins in the wheel hub. See this excellent write-up by Tartan Terror for that procedure. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=117809#post117809 Now you can follow the normal procedure and re-install the rear wheel. After the wheel is installed, tighten the axle nut to 110 ft.lbs.. Now you are ready to fill the new rear end with lube. I use Mobil 1 synthetic but that is just my personal choice. As you can see, I filled the rear before re-installing the rear wheel so you can actually do it either way. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1414%20%28Small%29.jpg That's it folks. You now have VMAX gearing in your RSV, Royal Star or Venture. Blue Ridge Mountain Sportmax offers the VMAX rears for all our bikes so if you are interested John Furbur at http://rmsportmax.com/gateway.html
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The “Butler Mod” Installation Instructions Click on pictures to see larger versions. The components of this device are basically a Galfer steel braided brake line attached to a Speedway Motors compact adjustable proportioning valve (APV). The technical name for this is a “flow control valve” and it will allow you to "fine tune" the rear brake system and thus prevent severe rear brake lockup under moderate-to-heavy braking. If you can replace your OEM rear brake line with a steel braided replacement brake line then you can easily install this line. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image002.jpg So let’s start first by evacuating the brake fluid. Take the lid off of the reservoir and then either use a MityVac at the bleed valve on the caliper to suck out the fluid or attach a clear hose that will empty into a bottle or other container, and pump the brake pedal until the reservoir is empty. Now you can disconnect the brake line from the caliper and the master cylinder. At the caliper, remove the 12mm banjo bolt and use a rag to catch and brake fluid drips. Where the line goes toward the master cylinder, you will see one hose clamp on the side of the swing arm and then another on the underside of the frame next to the AIS valve. Use an 8mm socket to remove these clamps. The hose now goes forward toward the engine behind the horn on the right side of the engine. Remove the horn so you can get to the frame hose holders, where the one to the left is up under the frame swing arm housing. This spring-like holder is not removable where the rubber line grommet can be pushed out away from you. The second line holder is a heavy round rubber grommet that is held by a frame holder that looks like a large wire. You can grab the end of this wire holder with a set of vise grips or pliers and pull the end open to where this circular grommet will slip loose. Then when you put it back in with the new line you can take a flat blade screw driver and press the end closed to tighten up on the grommet. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image004.jpg One quick note on assembly. When you take this line out you will find 3 flat rubber grommets and one thicker circular one (above), all of which can be taken off and used on the new line. Just slit one side and then just peel it off the rubber brake line. The replacement steel line is a smaller diameter, so just cut about ¼” off one end and then place it on the new line and wrap it with a couple of wraps of electrical tape. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image006.jpg Now you are at the frame line cover just under the right foot board. This cover is taken off by removing the two 8mm bolts that attach this cover. You now are at the adapter going into the master cylinder. The short adapter that goes into the master cylinder is a spinning collar and when the line is held by a 14mm open end wrench, you can loosen this collar with another 14mm open end wrench and it’s off. Now when you put the cover back on when you are finished, it works better if you cut the front part of the cover back 1”. You can see from the picture below that you cut it down to about 3/8” from the bottom and then across from the front mounting hole. This cutout allows room for the line coming out of the valve so that there is no pressure on this connection. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image008.jpg Now you are ready to install the new line. For now just work with the line off of the valve and start by threading the line back toward the rear from the horn area at the rear of the engine. Remember there are two flat rubber grommets that go on the swing arm with one flat one that will slip into the spring holder and the round one into the wire holder, where you can press it in to hold the grommet. Once you get the line threaded through to the caliper, attach the 30 degree end to the caliper and tighten the banjo bolt with new copper washers on both sides of the line banjo hole. On the rear line, I usually use the stock steel banjo bolt just because it’s stronger than the brass one that comes with the line. That way you can torque the bolt to 20ft/lbs (the manual says 22ft/lbs which I haven’t been comfortable with). Now attach the two line holders on the swing arm. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image010.jpg Don’t put the line cover on until you are finished bleeding the line and making sure there are no leaks. Next attach the proportioning valve to the master cylinder by threading the spinning collar on the master cylinder to the front adapter with the knob turned down toward the ground. The adapters on the valve side with the copper washers are already tightened. The end that goes into the master cylinder is the adapter with the course 10mm X 1.25 pitch thread. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image012.jpg Just snug this spinning collar to the point that if feels firm. Now thread the end of the line to the output side adapter on the valve and snug it up. Now with a 16mm open end wrench, hold the valve and with a 14mm open end wrench tighten the collar on the master cylinder until it feels tight. Do the same thing to the spinning collar on the line end. The threads on the line collar are a finer thread so do not over tighten. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image014.jpg Now it’s time to bleed the line, but first open the knob on the valve all the way open by turning it counter clockwise (like a faucet). I usually use a MityVac at the caliper bleed valve to get the fluid started to the caliper. Then I use the conventional method of (1) closing the bleeder (2) pumping the pedal a few good times (3) hold the pedal down (4) release the bleeder to let fluid through and then (5) close it. Now go back to (1) and start over until all the air is out of the line and the pedal feels good and firm. Now check the spinning collars at the valve to see if any fluid is seeping at the connections. If so, snug them up just a bit more being careful not to strip a thread. Wipe the fluid that has seeped and then pump the pedal hard and let it sit for a few minutes to see if it is still seeping. Once you are assured there are no leaks, attach the line cover. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image016.jpg Now turn the knob clockwise until it stops. At this point the valve acts like a shutoff valve, so turn the knob back out two turns. You can see the color rings under the knob, which indicate how many turns you have made. If you see 2 colored rings, then the knob is two turns out. This is only a starting point because from here you need to take the bike for a ride on a good concrete surfaced street to test the braking. It’s best to use a street with not much traffic on it Get up to say 40mph or more and gently apply the brakes pressing down more and more until (1) the bike comes close to stopping or (2) the rear wheel locks up. If it locks up, release it quickly. The latter condition means that you need to close the valve more by turning it clockwise. Adjust the valve to the point that you feel comfortable with the amount of braking resulting from how far you have to push down on the pedal. When it is right, you should be able to come to a complete controlled stop at 30-40mph with just the rear pedal. Of course remember that it’s very important to use both brakes when stopping, so in addition to the rear brake, be sure to apply an ample amount of front brake to help slow the bike down the most. But I have found that just as you are coming to a complete stop, release the front and use only the rear brake to come to that complete stop. Sometimes when you use the front brake at a complete stop, it may off balance the bike as you are putting your foot down. The rear brake now becomes more settling and comfortable at stops. Once you are comfortable with the feel, it’s time to lock the knob down. I first did this with a piece of safety wire which worked well but required a small hole be drilled through the knob. But since I started working with this valve, I have found the product information on this valve from the manufacturer (Deltrol Fluid Products) where it described a set screw in the side of the knob that could be used to lock the knob in place. This set screw can be turned in with either a 1.5mm or 1/16” hex allen wrench and will keep the knob from backing off. However, I still have drilled a small hole in the knob and have included a piece of safety wire as a secondary safety measure to make sure this knob stays where you have set it. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image018.jpg If you have any questions concerning this installation, you can reach me by either e-mail or phone: Rick_Butler@verizon.net 972-442-9840 Home 214-926-3905 Cell
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I posted this before...tried a couple things..problem still exists. First of all, it ain't the woman on the back coz I've had 3 different ones and I really can't believe they all squeal exactly the same and at exactly the same time! Here's the problem... when doing a tight right curve such as one of those you'd find in a freeway on/off ramp at a good clip (around 100 km/h), I get this squealing/whining sound. It only appears under this condition and it seems that if I'm not leaning quite enough or leaning too far, it goes away. In other words, while making the corner, I change the lean angle of the bike and the squeal goes away...put the lean angle back to what it was and there's the squeal again. This doesn't happen in a left curve. It's also less obvious without a passenger (but still exists). It also doesn't happen doing the same curve at a slower speed. Here's what I've done... changed both front and rear wheel bearings. Changed rear rotor. Cleaned and re-greased rear wheel. All internal components in rear wheel appear in good shape. Anyone experience this and/or have any clue what might be causing this? Thanks.
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Has anyone had to return anything to MAW? I bought a rear brake disc for my '89VR from them about three weeks ago. Ran a couple hundred miles last saturday, and toward the end started hearing a clicking noise coming from the rear end. Couldn't find anything wrong on the side of the road, so eased to the house. Couldn't find anything then either. Today I got to looking a little closer, and half the rivets in that new disc are loose. move it back and forth and it clicks. I told Ya'll this thing was a money pit. One thing after another. Again, the bike has great potential but man.....By the way, I guess I'm gonna have to go with an aftermarket clutch spring. This one still slips, even though it's new. but if you dont crank hard on the throttle it dont slip at all. thank heavens the old wing never misses a beat.
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