Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'radiator'.
-
I'm stuck at work with an overheating 97 Tour Classic. The top drain plug p/n 1AA-12561-00-00 has broken off in the radiator and leaks coolant. The poor thing overheats after only a couple of miles and I don't have the tools to remove it with me so I'll be taking a few breaks on the ride home. I would like to replace it with something other than the stock plastic one. Does anyone know the size and thread of what's there so I can can find brass fitting to put in its place?
-
Long story short, last week I had to take a furlough, so wife and I headed south for a week of r&r in Fl. About 40 mles south of Warner Robbins, Ga. in the dark, 80mph, hit something? Not sure what it was? Desk? Drawer? Some kind of piece of furniture. Anyways, got the bike pulled over to check for damages. Broke both lowers, brake lines, radiator and all look ok, but am gonna have to replace the cowlings,bent the crash bars, but they can be straightened. Any one got any good deals on lowers for an 01 RSV?
-
OK need some input here.... Being the only mechanic right now I'm kinda pushed to the limits working on Street - water - PD -FD - Comm.labor - sewer - meter reading vech...if you know what I mean:headache: Anyway 03 Ford E350 5.4L mtr A\C system..Front & rear air R\R A\C comp. Rec.dryer orfice tube expanison valve basic A\C kit... Flush system Pulled vacuum 1hr oil charge & Freon system full R\R radiator Clutch fan weak not pulling enough air Gauge reading low side reading - needle steady 50 - 60 high side reading 350- 450 even higher - needle jumping system running high on both sides? not cooling at all when having these high reading? getting plenty of air flow across the rad. system heat gun reading radiator 175-180F Condensioner 155-160F engine 196F when I run water across the rad. & con the system comes back down to these readings low 40-50 high 200-250 A\C system starts working fine for a short while and then climbs back up? So what am I over looking or missing here.. Input please........
-
OK, this could be something that I did but I'll put as much information in here as possible. I have a coolant leak, usually after riding the bike and it gets hot, looks like it is coming from the right side (looking forward of the radiator). I'm having some trouble tracking the leak down. The radiator itself always stays completly full. In fact if the bike is cold and I remove the cap fluid will come out. The temp when riding always stays right in the middle of the green after it warms up. The overflow tank is empty, and I just filled it to the proper level a few weeks ago after I changed the radiator fluid. There was a slow leak from the drain plug but I replaced the gasket under that and it isn't coming from there. The puddle is a little forward and left of where that puddle was! Both ends of the overflow tank hose are connected (assuming it connects right under the cap of the radiator), so it isn't disconnected. Here are the items I think may be an issue, I was wondering if I could get some help on where to start looking. - Overflow tank hose has a crack. - Overflow tank itself has a crack. - When I changed the coolant I wasn't exactly sure if the knob you turn (I believe they called it a drain diverter or something) got put back in the correct spot. I couldn't find the writing they talked about. Not sure if this would cause a leak. Thanks for any help you can give. Let me know if you need some pictures I can go snap some. I'm trying to get everything buttoned up as best I can before our first trip on the bike this weekend.
-
How hot does it have to get before the fan kicks in?
-
My wife and I were comming back from Aiken SC this morning. We had a truck in front of us kick up a bunch of rock laying on the road. We got hit with some of them and one punctured the radiator. Does any body have a radiator for a 2003 royal star midnight venture laying around. We are grounded till we get another radiator.
-
I'm thinking of adding a radiator cover to the bike. I thought I saw a black one online somewhere but can't seem to locate the website again. Does anyone know what that is, or is chrome the suggested fit. Also, doesn't air flow become impeded by adding one?
-
Howdy all, I am hoping someone know what to call the lower scoop looking thing under my radiator. I had one of the light fall off. The plastic retaingin ring broke off and the remaining light is going as well. I think this is an after market item. I don't know if the epoxy type adhesive would hold it back on or if I should go ahead and replace the lights. Maybe I will just take the thing off. Does it help direct air to the radiator? Thanks for the help Dave
-
Replacing the coolant, filled to the top of radiator, ran it, let it cool, filled to top again, ran it, still needs more. How do you know when you do not need anymore? When the coolant gets hot, I assume it bubbles to the overflow tank under the seat, but how does the coolant in the overflow tank get back to the radiator? there is only 1 tube to the overflow tank.
-
Can some one help me with the part No for the radiator plugs I am having trouble finding it in my manual and (where dose:confused24: one look?)
-
Hi every one. "As we are coming into winter, the mornings are cold. " One morning I went to get food and found radiator fluid leaking from one of the drain plugs. It was on the right front side of the engine today I worked on the bike and found that the left rear is also leaking. My question is can I just pull them out and reseat them or should I replace them Thanks
-
Ok......nice afternoon......sun came out.....time to finish up a few things and check over some of the work I've done on the old girl before I put the bodywork back on. When I first pulled the lower chin off a while back there was a LOT of antifreeze in there. OK, not a biggie, check the bypass valve. Not bad I figurered......drips every winter a bit. I put in a new o-ring last year and thought that would take care of it. Not the o-ring. I got her outside and let it warm up pretty good. Everything was looking good. No oil leaks, running smooth, it's a good day. Then I see the steam coming off the left side of the radiator. Not bad, just a wisp. Not acceptable. Got to looking and saw a wet spot at the bottom left corner. Tighened the hose clamp at the top to make sure it was dripping down the side. Nope. Pressure checked it and it's seeping at the lower corner alright. If I didn't have the bodywork off I never would have noticed it. It's not dripping, just boils off. So.........rather than scramble on eBay for another radiator....which may be better or worse than mine......I'm looking at pulling it and taking it to a radiator shop and have them go through it. Anybody had good luck with this type of approach? Or does anybody have a good radiator they want to part with? Man I was sooooo close to going for a ride. -
I have a 2005 RSTD. It hasn't been cranked in about a month or two. It has been too wet to ride. Seems that the sun only shines when I'm working. Anyway, today I washed her. When I was finished I cranked her and let her warm up with the choke on for a few minutes. I then pulled her back into the carport and shut her down. Thats when I saw a lot of steam coming from the radiator. Not from the top but through the fins. It only lasted a minute or two then went away. The radiator is not leaking and I sure the cold did not get to it. I've never had this happen before and was wondering if anyone else has had this happen and was there a problem.
-
Installed Show Chrome Celestar Radiator Grill Model 61-108 on my 07 RSTD Many vendors selling it list it being compatible with the Venture only. The ebay seller swore it would be the same as the RSTD – that they have the same radiator setup. Since I got a good deal (half price of new) I figured I would take a chance. Well it wasn’t exactly a direct fit, but it was doable. So I am not sure if the same minor mod is required for the Venture also or just for the RSTD - but I suspect they would have the same radiator setup. Basically though, I just had to do a fair amount of bending on the top two tabs and wallow out the bottom two tab holes a bit more. A little trial and error but got it to work. Attached are pics of what it took and the finished look. Hope it helps if anyone else tries to install one.. And now I run across this Wagner grill on the forum.. now that really looks nice.. but too late -Keith -
My wife bought us a `01 RSV with only 2700 miles on it, and we picked it up yesterday, This bike is brand new, the only thing I have noticed, is that at the bottom of the Radiator where the fairings connect to each other, it looks like maybe there is a peice missing, or maybe just missing a bolt, any Ideas?? Is this common on these bikes?? Thanks
-
ive got an 01 rsv and have coolent seaping from both rear heads. well just under the head from a small rubber plug on both cyclinders . already replaced the radiator cap but still seaps after two days . is the plug like a freeze plug or what ?
-
I can do a ride of 60 or 140 miles, park my 86 VR in the garage, not start her for about 2 or 3 days, then have a small puddle of about 3-4 drips. Found fluid on TOP of the bottom hose, but not on the ring coming out of the radiator; (don't know what to call THAT part; someone will probably suggest penis! LOL). Checked resovoure, and it was up ok. Ran in the normal heat range from FC to Estes Park and back, and no drip after the ride or 6 hrs later. Do I have a pressure problem, or something? Doubt it is the radiator, as I think Squidley serviced it before Lonna let him surrender her (the bike of course) to me in 06. Thanks for any wisdom! LOL. And wow, what a site this is, thanks to all of you. Jack Tharp Fort Collins, CO aka DePreach: weddings, outside and motorcycle ones prerred! Funerals if needed; and NO FUNDI HERE, just a guy with a well centered faith. JZ And I love to ride in any direction except down, and I'm not ready to go straight up yet! -
I thought I'd post a few comments for those who have not been through this before. It is not hard as long as you have the proper tools. T-handle allen wrenches are almost mandatory for me - they make turning out the many socket head screws fast and easy. In addition, if you follow the manual (Method #1 below), you really want a set of long ball-end 3/8" drive allen wrenches for use with your ratchet. If you follow the shop manual, the job is pretty straight forward, but you will have one frustrating surprise. I have detailed the full drain procedure first as Method #1, then two slightly modified procedures that some might prefer at the expense of not getting out quite as much of the old coolant. The first steps apply to all three methods: You start by removing the seat, tank, both lower fairings and all three battery covers. Don't forget to remove that top center #3 Philips screw on the middle cover; it is kind of hidden! The cover slips out to the left fairly easily, but you do need to watch down in the middle for hoses and wire bundles that will hang up on the corners. Now you are ready to begin draining the fluid. METHOD #1 - The Complete Drain: The radiator drain bolt is obvious on the bottom left, and getting the overflow tank out is pretty easy too. It is only held on by one bolt and a couple of lugs in rubber grommets. Just use your fingers to push that plastic shield above it up so you can pull the filler neck forward and out to the right side. Some folks prefer to siphon out the overflow tank instead of removing it, but I don't know why; taking it out is MUCH easier than messing with a siphon hose! (But you don't have to remove the center or left side battery covers if you are not going to remove the tank.) Note: If you remove the radiator cap before you take out the radiator drain bolt, the coolant will drain VERY fast with quite a bit of splashing; you may want to let it drain mostly on it's own before you take that cap off! Next you will want to pull the fake cylinder fins off and take out the rubber plugs; use an old spark plug to screw into the plug and pull it out. Each cylinder water jacket holds quite a bit of coolant - seemed like about 1/2 cup each but could have been less - and those fin covers pop off very quickly with a 5mm T-handle. Make sure you leave the right front cover off until you finish with the next step! The frustrating surprise will come when you try to drain the water pump. The drain plug is a 17mm plug angled forward in the bottom of the chrome water pump cover, right next to the bend in the header pipe. The service manual says absolutely nothing about this other than to just take out the plug. Good LUCK! Absolutely no way to get on it with normal tools unless you loosen the header pipe. The good news is that you don't have to actually remove the pipe, just loosen the clamp at the front of the Y joint and remove the two socket head nuts on the header clamp (this is where you will really appreciate the long ball-end allen wrenches for your ratchet!). Once the header pipe is loose enough to pull a bit to the outside near the floor board, it is easy to remove the drain plug with a normal 17mm socket and a wobble extension or u-joint. Now you are ready to put all the drain plugs back in and replace the fin covers (make sure to get that header pipe back in place before you put the right front cover on!). DO NOT over tighten the radiator drain plug - that is all plastic, and the torque spec is ONLY 22 inch pounds. Even with the proper torque wrench, that is so light you can't hardly tell it has clicked, so you could still easily over-tighten and damage it. To me, the right tightness seems to be about what you can do just with your hand on a long 3/8" extension WITHOUT the ratchet. That's it. Only thing left is to mix up 3.5 liters of 50/50 coolant and fill the overflow reservoir to the FULL line, then carefully fill the radiator to the top of the neck. Put the radiator cap back on and run the engine for a minute or so (plenty of fuel in the carbs to do this without the tank) to let the coolant settle, then top off the coolant at the radiator cap. Now put it all back together and take your bike out for a short ride to get the motor fully up to temperature and check for leaks. Then after it completely cools off, check the overflow tank and top up to the Full mark if necessary (if there were any air-pockets left when you filled the coolant, some of the fluid from the overflow tank will be sucked in as the engine cools). METHOD #2 - Skipping the Water Pump Drain (almost as good as #1): Several folks have said they prefer to just drain the radiator and try to flush the rest of the coolant out with distilled water (see posts below), so I include these corner-cutting options as Methods 2 & 3. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator. Now pull each of the fake fin covers and pop out that little rubber plug. You will notice that coolant that drains from each water jacket still seems bright green, showing the "flush" was incomplete (that's why you are still doing these plugs). With the radiator plug back in and the fin covers back on, it is time to refill with coolant. But this time you have left some distilled water or highly diluted coolant in the engine, so it is best to not use pre-mixed coolant. Add about 1.75 liters of straight coolant, some to the overflow tank (1/2 full) and the rest to the radiator. Now top up both with distilled water and run the engine for a minute to work out any air pockets, then re-top the radiator with distilled water. METHOD #3 - Short and Sweet and Hope For The Best: In this method you skip draining both the water pump AND the cylinder water jackets. You will be leaving some of the old coolant in there to mix with the new, but some folks find this OK. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator and flush it again just like above. After two flushes you probably noticed a much lighter green color to the water on the last drain, so it is time to add new coolant and button it all back up. But remember, not only are you leaving some water/coolant in the water pump, you are also leaving it in the water jackets too, so you need to use a lower amount of new coolant in the fill. My guess of the right mix would be to add only 1.25 liters of coolant and then top it all off with distilled water. That's it folks, all done for another couple of years! My personal choice is Method #1. Even with the need to loosen the header pipe, it really isn't that difficult, and it doesn't take any more time than adding the engine flushes on the other methods. But whichever method you use, it is certainly better than not changing it at all. So now that the maintenance is done, let's rack up some miles! Enjoy the ride! Goose
-
Just changed the Coolant in the 83 today and noticed at the car parts place a product called "water wetter" it makes water/antifreeze pull more heat out of the engine and dump it faster into the radiator. http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp Anyone tried this stuff? does it actually work? They claim 30 degree temperature drops.
-
Does anyone know of anybody making/selling high quality leather "bras" for the lower plastic pieces on either side of the radiator? Forget what they're called - the bug, scratch, and chip catchers?
-
Can a defective radiator cap cause coolant to bubble (for my lack of a better description) back into the overflow bottle? I believe coolant returning to the overflow is normal, I've just never heard it doing so. This only occurs when the motor is really hot. I've had several lst Editions and I've never had one do this even when touring in and through Death Valley (Furnace Creek) in 110+ weather. My temp guage was only a little past half way when I stopped today (108 here in Dallas) and killed the engine and within a few seconds this gurglling/bubbling sounds starts and today I even had some coolant run out the overflow line and puddle underneath the rear of the motor. Weird. I picked up a new radiator cap and hope this solves this issue. The radiator is clean, no clogged cooling fins, good thermostat, water pump in good condition and Engine Ice as coolant. Any advise would be highly appreciated. -
Hi Everyone, My 06 RSTD with 2,000 miles on it now has developed a noise which sounds like the fan is hitting the radiator. It's a metal sound like the fan hitting the radiator but I'm sure it's not. I hear so much about the chirp but this does not sound like a chirp and I only get it at a low rpm. 20 mph in second, 30 mph in third and 40 in 4th. It's only for about a 5 mph range that it does it. So like 3rd is the most noticeable and only from about 29 to 34 mph. Don't know if maybe it's the clutch basket hitting a little at the low rpm. It drives me CRAZY!!!!! Any thoughts???Thanks, Shortrider
-
Let the McGuiver'ing begin!!! spent the whole evening attempting to mount the arm rests and finally have a way to do it that I'm satisfied with. Passenger highway pegs were a 10 minute job. Have the grille on but it rattles agaqinst the radiator at certain RPM's. Need to do backrest and trunk rack tomorrow along with the air horn, followed by lights, etc...
-
Hi- We have an 05 Venture with a Motorvation Royale side car that was put Mar 08 by Motorvation. We had no trouble all last summer. We got the bike out lasr weekend and noticed a radiator leak. We took the sidecar off and got it to the dealer this am. The dealer has called to say that the frame is flexing and causing the fan shroud to rub on the back side of the radiator causing the leak. It is not covered under warrenty and will cost $1000.00 to repair. Has anyone here heard of this? Any ideas on how to prevent it from happening again? Any info will be helpful Thank you Beth
-
Does anyone have radiator cowlings [black midnight]......I noticed today I have a tennis ball size hole in left side. I also have a 2000 Venture trunk bottom new in Yamaha box [red] to trade or sell.
.thumb.jpg.4e1b3809c4633f365ba67afc212f21df.jpg){kind=avatar}
