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Showing results for tags 'lever'.
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I think I need to bleed my clutch...again! This will be the 3rd time....in 2 months. When I bleed it...and put in fresh Dot3, it seems fine for about a month...then all at once it starts acting up and within 2 -3 days it is unrideable. The "throw" gets less and less until it won't disengage enough to sit at a stop without pulling or stalling! The clutch fluid level is not down...so I'm not leaking anywhere Even after a clutch bleed the clutch starts to engage VERY soon after the clutch lever leaves the bar. I mean like 3/4 of the lever travel is meaningless. ANY IDEAS???
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I completed installing the PCW clutch upgrade kit last night and it went together very easily as others have stated. The clutch appears to be working and there is absolutely no slipping. However, I have a question about the friction zone. With the original spring it seemed that the clutch started grabbing when the lever was about 1/2 way out and there was 3/4 of an inch or so of friction zone. With the upgrade it seems that the friction zone is only about the last 1/4 inch of lever travel before the lever is free. It makes me wonder if the clutch is fully engaging. I still have about 1/4 inch of free travel in the lever after fully engaged. Is this consistent with other's experience? Dennis
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OK...when stopped (stopped only)...and I have to feather the clutch, I hear a "CREAKING" sound coming from the clutch lever. I can also barely feel this creaking. Looking at it, I think I can see a rubber boot (maybe not)...so I am afraid to oil it until I hear from some of you. Any suggestions or comments on this... Wally
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Went for a ride this morning and the clutch lever started getting very easy to pull in and the then had problems getting it to go into gear and of course wanted to creep forward while in first gear stopped. Can't see it being the clutch since it's a 96 with only 4800 miles. Possibly a clutch master rebuild? -
Tonight I decided to pull off my clutch lever to clean out the junk in there.. I'd been having some odd noises from the lever and it felt kind of odd from time to time.. So apart it went tonight.. and wow, what a frikken mess in there! Take off the nut, turn out the pivot bolt, and pull the lever off making sure to catch the brass holder.. everything was dark gunk mess in there.. no wonder it was feeling weird. A good cleaning and I discover the dust boot is torn to heck, exposing the push rod (plunger) to the elements.. Hmm wondering how munged up it might be inside of all there? I got everything re-assembled and lubed it up with Moly for now as I can't figure out what's best to lube it all up with properly. The one thing I do notice now is though the lever travels sooo much easier, it's also a lot more sloppy than before. I thought I might have dropped a sleeve from the pivot pin but no.. its simply just sloppy fitting now that all the junk it removed. I did notice that the brass holder is deformed and worn, and that the dust boot is torn. I'll go down to the shop and order each a new one.. however, how hard is it to install that boot? Considering the mess that I found, and the amount of slop in the lever play now, might it be worth my while to have the whole thing cleaned out and rebuilt with new seals? The book says to replace the piston seals every 2 years? I ride the bike a lot and in all kinds of weather.. the fluid tends to appear old prematurely, I wonder now if this is where some contamination might be coming in.. ? Thoughts, ideas or comments appreciated..
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Hi, My blue bike's (60,000 miles) clutch friction point is noticeably closer to the bar than my red bike's (13.000 miles). Both are '84 xvz12's btw. I am trying to make up my mind whether something is deteriorating or if it is just the nature of the beast. All seems to work fine but the friction point on the blue bike is quite close to the bar and when released the lever does not fully return to the all the way out position leaving a big dead zone where the lever movement has no tension on it at all. The friction point is quite useable and comfy for my hand, but now I have two bikes I can't help but notice differences. Perhaps its just me being anal or perhaps I have some work to do. I am going to flush the fluid with fresh but meanwhile, these questions occur to me: As the clutch friction surfaces wear, am I correct to assume that the friction point comes closer to the bar? I read about weak clutch springs on these bikes, does this scenario fit the description for that? How big a job is it to supplement clutch springs as some describe doing on these old gals? Other suggestions ? Thanks, Brian H.
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:225::225:You know some times no matter how hard you try things just seem to go from bad to worse. About 5 and 1/2 months ago I sent some parts to a vendor to have the levers leather wrapped and some other parts leather worked. So my MM has been sitting 5 1/2 months. I have been trying to get the guy wrapping the levers to send me the levers for 6 weeks. I told him I wanted to get my MM on the road. He keeps telling me he will send them right out. Well the last time he was suppose to send them right out was by last Saturday. I'm still waiting. Now this is frustrating enough by itself so I decided to try and find some used levers to put on the MM until and if I get my levers back. Well I got the used levers in night before last and tried to install them. Well guess what. The front brake lever did not have the 6mm screw in it. Well if you think about it (now I'm thinking about it) you would need that screw if you change to new levers. Okay so I'll replace the clutch lever and run down to the Yamaha Stealer for parts. Well I go to install the lever and I notice something is missing. Then I remember I found a part on the floor awhile back I didn't recognize. So I get the part and run up to the computer and check and sure enough it goes between the clutch lever and the clutch master cylinder. Alright I know where it goes now all I have to do is install it. I go to install it and I notice I'm still missing a part. Ah ha I remember finding another part I did not know what it was and I also remembered where it was. Alright I got it but I needed to do something so I laid the part I just got on the corner of a box and I when and did whatever it was I needed to do. Alright I get back to replacing my lever and for some stupid reason I decided to move some boxes before I got started. Well remember the box I put the part on well that is one of the boxes I moved. Oh know! Where did the part go. I have hunted two days for that part and still have not found it. So now I have to order that part along with the screw and nut for the other lever. I get to the Yamaha Dealer and of course they don't have any of the parts in stock. Why would they? So I order the parts and of course it will take 3 to 5 days. I sure will be glad when this is all over.
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I have a 2000 mm and i was wondering if there was anyway to extend the rear brake lever forward. Thanks in advance for the replies and help.
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I mentioned I was having a problem with my cruise control, when at the meet and eat in talbot ville last saturday (24th). Great bunch. Sorry, I'm bad with names they will come later. They mentioned the clutch lever. Right on, the second switch was still ingaged. Thanks. Weather held, even got in a small ride. Thanks again Mark
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Hi everyone, I am brand new to this forum. I just purchase a 1993 venture today. I started it up and drove it on the trailer. When I got home (209 miles) it would not start. The engine turns over but does not fire up. The fuel lever in on fuel and the fuel gauge reads half a tank. I am really frustrated and do not know what to do. Can someone PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!! Thanks,:240:
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Ok, my wife has a Honda Shadow Spirit 750 ( I know, I know this is a Venture forum) She has small hands and has to stretch to reach the clutch. I already heated up the lever and straightened it out, but now the bike won't start while in gear. I have the clutch all adjusted and it shifts fine, she can operate the clutch 100% better. There is a cam on the bottom of the lever that actuates the micro switch in the lever housing. Being that I straightened out the lever, it now does not rotate back far enough to actuate that micro switch. Now the bike has to be able to start while in gear. If you stall it out at a light, you don't want to be trying to get it into neutral to start it. I tried doing a search for levers with out much luck. Any ideas? Randy
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Anyone know where a fella could pick up an inexpensive used shift lever for the 2nd gen? I need to pick one up so I can modify it by removing the rear heel part of the shifter. I did find a shop in the USA and all parts together costs $73 (bolt washer and cover) but they want $89 in shipping UPS.. nice.. never user UPS.. sigh. So.. if ya know where a lad can find such a part, used, grungy I don't care, let me know. Problem I have is that the inside seam of my left pant legs sometimes catches the heel part and I have the feeling of getting my leg caught up and not being able to free it in time to put my foot down when coming to a stop. I don't want to modify my existing shift lever just in case I injure my toe or what ever and will actually have to use the heel part for some dumb silly reason.. (No, I have never been able to get used to using the heel / toe shifting method...)
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Another newbie question. There is a handle by the passenger seat, if I follow the cable it goes to the passenger backrest. What is this supposed to do? I pulled up on the lever and I think it is supposed to allow access to the rear compartment? Thanks in advance, Don -
I need a picture of the heel toe shift lever and how it mounts with the floor boards installed. Also how the Brake lever looks with the board installed. The bike must have floor boards on it and not the stock pegs. I have both levers but no mounting plates so that is why I need pictures of each so I can mount them on my trike with some idea of how it is to look. Thanks in advance Bikenut -
Hi everyone. Last spring I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and bought all the clutch lever wear parts. It continues to go flat. However, when the bike warms up it would pump more and almost feel normal. It actually went completely flat 2500 miles from home and Sturgis BMW/Yamaha disassembled, cleaned and bled the crap out of it. It was good for the next 5000 or so. Now it's almost totally flat again. it's not leaking anywhere. I'm going to replace everything. New master,slave, lines etc. I know the slaves are cheap but is there an inexpensive alternate master? I don't care what kind of bike it's off of or if the lever matches. I just want this dam thing to work. I'd hook up a cable if I could. What are my options? Thanks in advance. Great forum!
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i have nerve damage to left hand and significant strength loss as well. i would like the collective experience of you all help me decide the best course of action. let me preface by saying i really don't want an automatic clutch setup (at least not now). i can probably adjust the lever to where it actuates much closer to the grip, thereby reducing the length of stroke required to engage/disengage the clutch - does anyone see a drawback or potential long term problem with that? i know there is a ton of knowledge & experience in this group and i am counting on you guys & gals to get me back on my bike ......and thanks a ton in advance. buz
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As I now have a thumb brake on the bike I am finding that it's a bit of a stretch when holding the clutch in and "thumbing" the brake. I have always had problems with the clutch lever on any bike as the thumb has been broken and doesn't have as much flexability. Question: is there an after-market clutch lever that will come in closer to the handlebars??? Or, one that can be adjusted (like the FJR one)??
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Clutch Lever Free Play
MasterGuns posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Ok, I am very slowly eliminating operations that could have a detrimental effect on shifting. I am now interested in the amount of free play of the clutch lever. From dead center of the ball at full extension, can anyone tell me the amount of free play their clutch lever has? I measured this one and it measures precisely at 1/2 inch. I simply don't know if that is good or bad. Oh yeah this bike is a 1st Edition, 86. All should be the same; 83 - 93 (Clutch lever free play, that is). Thanks in advance -
Went on a big ride today, what a blast but encountered a few issues with the clutch, not sure if it's 'just the way it is' or indicative of a larger problem.. I have the PCW heavy duty clutch installed, AMSOIL synthetic engine oil.. This problem started this week, perhaps 700 miles after the oil change.. When I started the bike this morning, sitting on the bike, first gear, kick stand up and clutch lever in, choke out, I flicked the start switch and the bike actually lurched forward an alarming amount.. not beyond the length of legs but wow, what a grab on the clutch it was.. and the clutch lever was fully pulled in.. How odd.. When the bike was then sitting there, in neutral and on kick stand, warming up, you can hear mechanical noise from the engine and when you pull the clutch lever in, the noise dissipates.. Is this due to perhaps the clutch fluid needing to be bled, as if I have air in the system or something funny like that? There is no slippage what so ever but feels like the clutch is ever so slightly engaged when the lever is pulled in or in neutral.. I have new braided steel lines coming in soon so the clutch system will be bled when the lines are installed, perhaps that's all there is about it? Ideas?
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My apologies up front if this is an incorrect post....My First. I have a 1983 Venture Royale 1200 that just now started this prob. the neutral light comes on whenever you even slightly pull in the lever - in every gear. It stays on when the lever is pulled and during shifting. the only thing I have noticed is that finding neutral seems to be harder (more touchy) than before. Any ideas? Thanks in advance Roger -
I am looking for chrome clutch and brake lever , are 1st and 2nd gens the same ? and anybody know the part# for after market chrome set ? at 24.50 each for oem i mite as well get good looking ones . Thom
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Does anyone have the single shift lever? I have the stock toe/heel lever but never use the heel end. I caught my rain pants on the heel end the other day and almost dumped. If anyone has a single and wants to change back to the toe/heel, I would be interested in a trade. Otherwise I will probably just cut off the heel end. BTW, this is for a 07 RSV. Also would be interested in a fuel cap cover and a cover for the rear of the fuel tank.
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Are the Front Brake levers from the 86-90 Ventures different from the 83-85 Front Brake Levers? The lever on my '83 Venture is bent at a weird angle that makes it awkward to grab & pull without messing with throttle control, & I don't think it's safe. It looks like I'm maybe going to have to buy a used master cylinder on ebay in order to get a good brake lever, and I saw a master cylinder off of an 86-90 Venture - thought maybe the brake lever is probably the same - does anyone know for sure? Also, my brake lights don't light up with the front brake - only with the foot brake lever, so I suspect the switch on the master cylinder is bad. Maybe its not so bad to have to buy the master cylinder if it has a good switch in it as well. If anyone has a good 83-85 front brake lever and/or master brake cylinder they would sell me, please PM or email me. There is one used '83 front brake master cylinder on ebay that they want $50 for with a "buy it now" + $12 shipping, and it looks like it's 36 years old and has seen better days - seems kind of pricey, doesn't it? I would think it would have to look very pretty & function perfectly to pay that much for one. Thanks for any info. Doug -
So my CC started acting up on me. It wouldn't stay engaged when I set it. Figuring it was one of the Micro-switches I started trouble shooting the problem. What I found was that the clutch lever wasn't returning to the completely out position. So when I pushed the lever out and held it there the CC would engage. As soon as I stopped pushing out on it the darn thing would shut off. Figured the lever was loose. Well not exactly, the darn thing has to be able to move so tightening it was out of the question. Took it apart and found the bushing inside the lever that the pushrod goes into was worn out, and I do mean OUT. I tried to rig it and that didn't work so I ended up ordering a new bushing and paying more to get it shipped to me than it cost. Put the new bushing in and CC works great now. I posted this for two reasons, the first being that someone else may have the same problem or experience the same thing in the future. And B as this was going bad I was noticing some slipping in the clutch under hard acceleration. I always suspected it was something to do with the lever and it was. The bottom of the bushing was angled from wear. When the bushing wore through it also wallered out the hole in the bushing which allowed the bushing to drop and bind where the bushing goes into the lever mount. This in turn was not allowing the clutch to come completely out (without pushing the lever out) and was staying engaged ever so slightly. Whenever I would push the lever all the way out and get on it hard the clutch never slipped, but after shifting into a gear and just releasing the clutch normally I would get a slip about 25% of the time. Sooo with that being said, some folks may have a simple $4.00 problem that could be causing their clutch to slip. Notice the hole completely through the old bushing. http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd227/SaltyDawg83/93116452.jpg This is what the backside looked like. Notice no hole in the new bushing :-0 http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd227/SaltyDawg83/b7af276d.jpg Notice the perfectly round shape of the old bushing. http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd227/SaltyDawg83/6c6142e9.jpg -
2006 Midnight Venture (no warranty) Hi guys, I wonder if someone could shed some light on this for me.. I hadn't realized till recently that my Venture had a hydraulic clutch vs cable like on my VStar.. On the VStar I can adjust where the friction zone is within the clutch lever application so that it's comfortable on my hand, the zone itself is narrow, meaning how much travel of the lever keeps you in the friction zone of the clutch.. For people doing a lot of slow speed manouvering on such a large bike, you'll understand where I'm going with this.. On the Venture I find my friction zone is extremely narrow and all the way to the release point of the clutch lever.. it take a very deft hand to stay within the zone smoothly.. On the VStar, the zone was more so into the middle than towards the full release point.. I'm wondering if my clutch is actually full engaged when I release the lever, because as soon as I pull it in I'm immediately in the friction zone.. If this can be adjusted, how so.. If it can't be adjusted, is mine more or less normal? I'm teaching motorcycle safety and though students do the course on 125 Maurauders, we're somewhat expected to be able to do the excercise courses on our own bikes.. When you see a RoadKing or a GoldWing able to do it, it makes me wonder how come my Venture can't do it (oh I know there are a lot of reasons apart from the rider's abilities lol) but the one thing I noticed was the clutch's friction zone wasn't quite what I was used to on other bikes.. Any thoughts or comments?
