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Showing results for tags 'level'.
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I think I need to bleed my clutch...again! This will be the 3rd time....in 2 months. When I bleed it...and put in fresh Dot3, it seems fine for about a month...then all at once it starts acting up and within 2 -3 days it is unrideable. The "throw" gets less and less until it won't disengage enough to sit at a stop without pulling or stalling! The clutch fluid level is not down...so I'm not leaking anywhere Even after a clutch bleed the clutch starts to engage VERY soon after the clutch lever leaves the bar. I mean like 3/4 of the lever travel is meaningless. ANY IDEAS???
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G'day All I'm replacing the oil in the front forks of my '83 VR after fitting new seals on the anti-dives. I have progressives. What oil level do I use ? 5 inches from the top or 5 and a half inches ? Jim O'D...........
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Here's a head scratcher.... Pre-oil change, my oil level was right to the top of the window with very little bubble. I got it nice and warm, got the bike to level on my lift, removed the fill cap, popped the drain bolt and pulled the old filter. I let everything drain for a good 30 minutes until the dripping all but stopped, and then put exactly 3.5 qts of new oil in it, including a little bit in the new filter as all good little mechanics do. After I fired it up for about 5 minutes and then let it sit, the window again showed that the oil was right to the top of the window when the bike was again level - virtually no bubble visible . Is it possible that even after all I did, that some old oil is still in the engine? If so, how do you get it fully drained? The old oil filled 3 of the empty quart containers and about 6oz. of a 4th. Not quite 3 1/2 quarts. Can't think of anything I did wrong, but this one's got me stumped.
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2007 RSV, oil dripping onto floor from one or two of the hoses that drop down just forward of the rear tire. Possible oil overfill? Bike was purchased from a Honda dealer with appx 18,500 miles on it, now has another 1,000 since I bought it. They serviced it. Looks like the sight glass is full when checking oil level. You'd think that those Yamaha engineers could devise an easier, more convenient way to check the oil level on these engines. But then we might also expect fuel injection, C D player, on board air compressor, etc. Mel:Venture:
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Has any one else notice that with the front raked that the oil level in site gage at 3.5qt oil is above the gage filled mine to top of gage which is not the full 3.5 qt that the mannual calls for will this cause any problems on starving the motor on oil
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Hi: Does anyone know if there is an extra RCA line level output, or subwoofer output available on the 2nd Gen Venture stereo? I am looking at possibly adding a Clarion SRV314 subwoofer but will need an audio signal. This sub can accept a line level RCA signal or speaker level so either would work. Any idea where I would start to look to find out if it does have one? I am looking to get a bit more bass to go with my polk audio dB 401s. Ron
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Thought I would share this. This happened to me about half way through our 350 miles of rain on the way to Bogalusa. The next day I went through all the connections and found them to be still clean, dry of water and greased with dielectric grease just as I had done a year ago. Symptom: Any audio source from speakers is severely distorted. The distortion is so bad you can not understand anything. This initially occurs at a volume setting of about 18 or above which is my normal cruzin' level. If the level is kept around 10 or so, it sounds ok for a while but eventually becomes distorted. All the while the head set audio is clear. The dealer has ordered a replacement audio amp unit (warranty) after confirming with Yamaha that is is a known symptom. Just as a side note, the retail cost for the replacement is $1400.
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I know what the manual says about this. Stand bike upright (level), check that oil is halfway covering sight glass. I know thats not word for word. My question is how do you make this a one person operation? Right now I have to have one person level the bike while the other gets down to the level of the sight glass. Any other way?
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:255:Other then the plug being stuck. I need to measure the level of oil. I do not have a dip stick to measure. Does anyone know the the hight in inches from the top of the fill to the oil. Thanks Doug
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I installed the Road King pipes on my 06 RSTD about a month ago. Like many others, I quickly realized they didn't make much of a difference in the sound level. So I did the first modification of drilling the four holes in the forward baffle plates. That did make a bit of a difference and they do sound quite nice at idle or when I wind her up. But they still aren't quite loud enough for me. I have been debating about drilling out the rear baffle plate with the hole saw (mod # 2), but realize that if I do and my neighbours start circulating petitions up and down our street my only option will be to go back to the OEM pipes and start searching on ebay again. What can I say, I'm a considerate person. I would like to hear from anyone who has gone from the first mod to the second mod to get an idea if this makes a significant difference in the sound level while the bike is warming up at idle in your driveway, and if the noise level is high enough to become irritating on long trips before I start cutting. -
I have always felt that my 2007 RSV points to the right when it is running in a straight line, on any type of surface. (so did my 2006 RSV I had for a short time). My dealer has checked things and said it is normal. However, I still have the impression it points to the right. I have run into a few others that have said the same thing, but not many. Well, I finally did some measurements and have confirmed, in my opinion, that it DOES point to the right. I used a 10 inch magnetic level with the rotatable angle indicator. Here is a summary of the testing: - with bike on side stand, attach the magnetic level to the rear brake rotor. Use another level to make sure that the magnetic level is perfectly vertical when viewd from the side of the bike. - adjust the level "angle bubble" on the level until it is centered in the window. This will be the reference angle of the rear wheel. Be careful not to bump or change the angle indication. - attach the same level to the front right brake rotor, again using another level to make sure it is vertical. - move the bike handlebars until the angle bubble on the level is exactly centered as it was on the rear rotor. When this position is found, this is the normal running position of the front and rear wheels at speed. (that is with one wheel trying to be exactly behind the other and at the same angle) - use a piece of string, and/or a metal measuring tape or other means to take several measurements from the handlebar and fork to fixed points on the main frame. The following points were measured: - left and right handlebar tips to rear passenger foot rest mounting bolts on left and right. (about a 1/2 to 3/4 of inch difference was found) - front axle left center to lower front left leg cowling fastener. Same on right side. (aobut a 1/8th inch difference found here) - bolt at left side rear of lower triple tree clamp to gas tank front mounting bolt. Same on right side. (about a 1/8th to 1/4 inch difference here) - lower left and right rear front brake caliper mounting bolt to leg cowling bolts, both left and right sides. (almost a 1/4 inch difference here) In all cases, the measurements from the right side of the fork and handlebar to the frame were smaller than on the left. This tells me that the whole fork, handlebar, etc, is pointing to the right, when both wheels are running vertically as they will at speed. I have now presented this info to my dealer to see what they have to say. I'll post any news.
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Since I first got my 2007 RSV I have felt that the forks and handlebars point to the right. IN fact, I also had an 06 RSV for a short time and felt that it also did this. I have found a few others, but not many, that feel the same thing. I have had it to the dealer several times to investigate but they say there are no adjustments and that it is all normal. I now have used a small level with angle adjustable vial/bubble to pretty much confirm that it does in fact point to the right. Here is a summary of the testing:- with bike on side stand, attach the magnetic level to the rear brake rotor. Use another level to make sure that the magnetic level is perfectly vertical in one plane. - adjust the level "angle bubble" on the level until it is centered in the window. This will be the reference angle of the rear wheel. Be careful not to bump or change the angle indication.- attach the same level to the front right brake rotor, again using another level to make sure it is vertical when viewed from the side of the bike. - move the bike handlebars until the angle bubble on the level is exactly centered as it was on the rear rotor. When this position is found, this is the normal running position of the front and rear wheels at speed. (that is with one wheel trying to be exactly behind the other and at the same angle - they are like big gyros)- use a piece of string, and/or a metal measuring tape or other means to take several measurements from the handlebar and fork to fixed points on the main frame. The following points were measured:- left and right handlebar tips to rear passenger foot rest mounting bolts on left and right. (about a 1/2 to 3/4 of inch difference was found)- front axle left center to lower front left leg cowling fastener. Same on right side. (aobut a 1/8th inch difference found here)- bolt at left side rear of lower triple tree clamp to gas tank front mounting bolt. Same on right side. (about a 1/8th to 1/4 inch difference here)- lower left and right rear front brake caliper mounting bolt to leg cowling bolts, both left and right sides. (almost a 1/4 inch difference here)In all cases, the measurements from the right side of the fork and handlebar to the frame were smaller than on the left. This tells me that the whole fork, handlebar, etc, is pointing to the right, when both wheels are running vertically as they will at speed. I have forwarded this info to the dealer. And will wait to see what they say.Any comments from other RSV owners?
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I ran accross the following site today that has carb enhancement kits that it claims help overall power levels for us: Standard drop-in carb kit Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more topend power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling! http://www.factorypro.com/ select Yamaha and scroll down to xvz13 Venture. They also say The needle jet orifice wears oblong in as little as 5,000 miles and is particularly aggravated by "in town", low rpm operation. The result is excessive richness at low rpm that can be partially compensated for by lowering the fuel level. which might help explain why the factory sets the carb floats to run lean? Just a thought. They sell a carb float level adjustment tool. attachment is the tool.
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I thought I'd mention this one to others who might not have thought of this one, but ya know how it's a pain to check your oil level on this bike? You either have to have someone sit the bike for you while YOU get down and check the sight glass or have someone else get down on their hands and knees to check the sight glass for you? Last evening, I was in the parking lot sitting on my bike, and pulled out my telescoping inspection mirror and put it down by the right side pipe.. people come up to see what I was looking for.. I knew some of them to be RSV riders.. It never occurred to them to check their oil levels this way.. from the seat.. My VStar has a mirror contraption bolted down there so that I just look down past my leg and I can see the reflection of my oil level.. but for the RSV you can't do this.. However, an inspection mirror works great! I glued the swivel head in the proper position so that I don't have to fumble with it much and I actually store it in the empty cassette player slot when not in use.. NO excuse for not checking the oil level now..
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I'm still looking for some transportation as Insurance jerks drag their feet. What do you think of a 2004 Saturn ION Level 2 Coupe 28k miles on it for $6950.00 Black and is pretty thing.
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Hi, My 87 VR has had a problem with the rider's headset level adjustment (on the left handlebar). Symptoms: When turned all the way up it sounds fine. I would just use this setting, but it has more engine whine that way. As I turn it down notch by notch, the left speaker goes down more than the right, so it sounds like the music is shifting to the right. The second-highest notch (with the big dot) still sounds good in this regard; the shift is small at that point. Sometimes the sound starts breaking up, like a slightly bad cell phone connection. This is exacerbated by bumps or rough pavement. It never cuts out completely. Again, this does not apply to the max level. Wiggling the attenuator knob does not affect either symptom. Only applies to rider's headset. Passenger's has none of these symptoms. Dash speakers work fine. I don't really understand how these attenuators work. I thought of it as a variable resistor, but that doesn't make sense because if you unplug the attenuator line where it ties into the headset line, the level goes to max. I thought the level would go to zero with a broken circuit. At any rate, I've cleaned that connection and the attenator knob. Clearly something is loose due to the "bump" behavior. Help! Ideas? Anybody seen this before? Is the problem in the knob or its box and circuit card, or in the cable somewhere? Thanks, Jeremy
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Well I'm still in the hospital and the coumadine level is being slow about coming up. The last couple days from 1.3, 1.6, and today 1.7. The level has to be 2 before he will let me go home. Normally takes about 5 days(yesterday). The cast was supposed to come off tuesday so we rescheduled for frid. This is a bummer and these 4 walls are closing in. OH and all of you that submitted MD pics they were great, thanks. Oh well enough crying.
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Ok folks.. I've gotten a lot of work done to the bike today and here's what I discovered and I'm STILL puzzled by the WTF factor lol.. wow 2006 Midnight Special, 36,900 miles on it.. (NO warranty on it at all.. don't ask, there isn't any) Initial problem was that when the fuel level got to the reserve level (around 3 bars or less) and the bike starts to choke, I would select RES and the bike dies, though it is confirmed to still have it's reserve fuel amount (yes, the level is properly selected to RES, not off, not ON). Once the bike is refueled, and lever set to ON from RES, it will start once again with full choke on and then all is good as normal.. Once was a fluke, twice is a problem so I had to start working on it.. Everything is fine but the bike wouldn't give me an F on the fuel or a yellow light.. just cough and die when I would select to RES. SO, this would indicate a blocked standpipe in the tank.. I drained the fuel with the level set to "ON" and let it go until it stopped.. then selected RES where I would assume nothing would flow but Huh?? It flowed full force again.. what the heck? This is contrary to what I was getting on the road.. twice!! I pulled the petcock out of the tank to examine it, expecting to see sludge or what ever.. brilliantly clear and clean.. the fuel drained from the bike was clean.. I took a lint free cloth to wipe a little bit of the inside of the tank to see if there was a sludge coating or something at the bottom of the tank and nothing.. all clean.. well then.. what gives? With the ignition turned ON, and absolutely no fuel in the tank, the fuel gauge reads nothing but there is no empty fuel light or F on the odo.. I removed the tank from the bike to change the spark plugs and gave it a roll over to swish it out a bit and hoping to hear the fuel level float inside but didn't hear it.. I would assume it's working as it does indicate fuel amount.. The local Yamaha dealership suggested that I have the interior of the tank "steam cleaned" at the local radiator shop to make sure no gunk or junk is left inside.. But I hesitate on that one for obvious reasons.. and no one here has ever heard of "Heat" or H33T what ever it's called.. I pulled the fuel filter out (ever pull the teeth out of an elephant from it's rear? this is similar!) and it didn't show any odd signs of contamination so it got replaced on spec anyway.. All the fuel lines were 'puff tested' to make sure they were clear and not blocked (spit, caff caff) And the vent line as well at the top of the tank.. So now, the only thing left is to swish the tank again with clean fuel to catch maybe perhaps something else that might in there.. and try this test all over again.. Can someone confirm that when I put fuel back into the tank and turn the ignition ON, I should indeed hear the pump tick tick tick as it fills the lines again? Is this correct and that failure to hear the pump might indicate a fuel pump malfunction? Or is it possible then I am possibly looking at a 'computer' problem?? Later today, I will run the bike with it's new filters (air & fuel), spark plugs and such and see what happens.. I'll run it in RES and ON mode to see if that makes a prob.. The only prob if I can't resolve this fuel issue is that I will have to ensure I refuel just as I hit 3 bars as then I don't know when I will 'run out of fuel' as it were, while still carrying a reserve amount that I can't access.. Any of this sound familiar to you guys? Any thoughts or ideas? Man.. what a day!! Cheers
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The gas mileage on my bike sucked at around 20 mpg, I had two carbs that seemed to be leaking and my last ride the other day the bike ran like crap. So I took the carbs off and apart looking for whatever i could find that might be causing problems. Before taking carbs off i did the float/ fuel level check and the level on three carbs where 3/8" below fuel level mark and the fourth (#3) was 5/8" below. Took carbs apart, bent tangs on floats down a littlebit, Reassembled carbs put them back on did fuel level in bowl check again and all carbs showed about 3/4" below mark. That ddn't make sense. Took carbs back off and apart, bent tangs up, put back carbs together, reinstalled did check again and gas wouldn't show in tube for any of the carbs. :doh: So, I took them apart again bent tangs back down. reassembled, reinstalled did check and bowl fuel level showed 3/8" below mark on all carbs. I figured at this point they were better than they were so I'd try to run her to see if there was any improvement. Put the air box back on and cranked her. Now she's surging and dumping gas on the ground through the four overflow tubes that run down frame to the ground.:bang head: Did I mention that I really hate these carbs. Can anyone offer any help?
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there is one thing I have always hated about Yamaha street bikes. That stupid sight glass for checking oil levels. It's ridiculous that it takes 2 people to check the oil. Is there a trick to it that you guys could share with me. How do you guys check your oil level. My wife is not the kind of person that pays attention to details so I don't like holding the bike up for her to tell me the level. She doesn't understand the importance of it being at the right level......HELP :bang head::bang head::bang head:
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Oil level warning light.
Marvin81 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I have a 1988 VR with 64k miles on it. I have looked through as many threads as I can find on this problem and can't find a solution to my issue. I was out riding yesterday and my oil level warning light came on and the red LED started flashing. I pulled over on the shoulder as quickly as possible and had a buddy hold the bike upright so I could check the oil level for fear I had created another oil leak (previous leak fixed) and lost my oil. The oil was at very near the 3/4 full level so I wasn't low on oil. We sat there for a few minutes letting things cool down and my nerves to settle down not wanting anything serious to happen to my ride. After about 5 minutes I cranked it back up and the light stayed on so I let it run and rocked it from side to side and still the light stayed on. We started riding again but instead of it being pleasurable for me anymore I was concerned with a problem in the engine now. So I decided to turn around and head back home. About 5 miles from the house the light went out. It stayed off until I pulled into my drive way and the DA** thing came back on again. Now I have read the others have had this problem but it was when the were cranking on the throttle while going through the gears. I could understand this if that was the case with me but I was just riding along minding my own business. Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you fix it? Red lights give me the willies and FLASHING red lights is hard on the old ticker. All help will be greatly appreciated as always. -
I just bought my 2000 Venture MM from a gentleman in Las Cruces, New Mexico (elevation over 3,000 feet) and it was riden to Corpus Christi, Texas for delivery. When I rev up the engine and back off the throttle, there is a slight backfire. Someone suggested that the carburators have to be adjusted to sea level. I called the service department of the local Yamaha dealer and was told that the carburators (4 of them) have to be adjusted and/or the jets have to be changed out. He said if it is just an adjustment, it would take an hour and a half to adjust all four. If the jets have to be changed out, it would take an hour and a half per carburator..... all of the above at $70 PER HOUR. The carburator change out would take 6 hours to complete. Is this a reasonable quote or is there something else I should do? There are some intercom and a few small issues....but I will save that for some other time. Right now I just want to get my new Venture running smooth at sea level. Thanks for any advise... Mike -
Don't know if this has been posted before or not. For all of us who are sick of being snowbound and have lost our sense of humor..... 1. At Lunch Time, Sit In Your Parked Car With Sunglasses on and point a hair dryer at passing cars. See if they slow down. 2. Page Yourself Over The Intercom. Don't Disguise Your Voice! 3. Every Time Someone Asks You to Do Something, ask If they want fries with that. 5. Put Decaf In The Coffee Maker For 3 Weeks Once Everyone has Gotten Over Their caffeine addictions, Switch to Espresso. 6.. In the Memo Field Of All Your Checks, Write ' For Marijuana ' 7. Finish All Your sentences with 'In Accordance With The Prophecy'.. 9. Skip down the hall Rather Than Walk and see how many looks you get. 10. Order a Diet Water whenever you go out to eat , with a serious face. 11.. Specify That Your Drive-through Order Is 'To Go'. 12. Sing Along At The Opera . 13. Put Mosquito Netting Around Your Work Area and Play tropical Sounds All Day. 14. Five Days In Advance, Tell Your Friends You Can't Attend Their Party Because You have a headache. 15. When The Money Comes Out The ATM, Scream 'I Won! I Won!' 16. When Leaving the Zoo, Start Running towards the Parking lot, Yelling 'Run For Your Lives! They're Loose!' 17. Tell Your Children Over Dinner, 'Due To The Economy, We Are Going To Have To Let One Of You Go.' 18. And The Final Way To Keep A Healthy Level Of Insanity . Send This To Someone To Make Them Smile. It's Called ... THERAPY
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Anyboby know why the oil light on the board is lit up and the oil level is fine? I understand it is a level indicator. How would I trouble shoot and where would I look? Thanks for any help.
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My red bike has an issue with the f/b fluid level sensor float switch. I seem to have to fill the reservoir too full of fluid to satisfy it. If I put in what it seems to want, it over flows when I put on the lid. If I put in fluid just to the level indicated on the sight glass, it doesn't satisfy the level switch and I get the red flashing CMS etc. Is this common? Thanks, Brian H
