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Showing results for tags 'idle'.
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My 89 is a little lean at light throttle. When I test rode the bike before I purchased it, it appeared to be fine. However, when I started to service it, I found the air cleaner was probably the original and extremely dirty. I installed a K&N and then I notice that if the bike wasn't completely warmed up it would bog a bit at light-medium throttle. If you opened the throttle, it was fine. Idle was fine as was response off of idle. The lean condition was only noticable for a minute or two after you pulled away with a cold engine. The bike has about 37,000 miles on it now, and runs great. I've set the idle mixture and the bike idles's great now. Of course, I've also synced the carbs. Whatever is wrong is on all 4 cylinders because when it bogs, all 4 bog. Of course it tends to fart out the exhaust when this happens also. When I bought the bike it had cut out mufflers. I've replace them with stockers and also replaced the baffle chamber with a known good one. My gas mileage is a touch less than 40 MPG @ 75 mph indicated (72 GPS). When I rode a little slower for a tank, it gave me 46.5MPG. This is with loaded bags and 2 up. This morning it was about 55 degrees F. here and the bog was really bad. I believe I need to raise the needles a little, but I see that Mk II's aren't adjustable as the 1200's were. I know everybody else has rich carbs. My 83 was on the rich side. You'd start than one up with a little choke in cold weather. Then pull away with the chock on a bit and turn it off after you were moving. It would run great no matter how cold it was. Not this 1300....Anybody else had this problem or have any ideas?
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Ok, Got it home and unloaded. Took it out for a shakedown cruise. WOW!!! I know it needs a carb sync. It accelerates well and runs really smooth at highway speeds, but will not come back to idle and I can hear the exhaust hitting harder from the right muffler at idle. The cruise does work fine. I went ahead and put a whole can of Sea Foam in the 1st fill up, to see if that will help. At this point the only thing I see that REALLY won't work is the "Select" button on the dash. I guess (didn't get an owner's manual with it) that changes the odometer display to the 2 trip meters. It seems to be stuck in. I tried to pry it out a little with no success. My question is what all do I have to take off to get to it, so I can either free it up or replace it? Now I just gotta decide what to do about the missing antenna. Yeah the CB one is on the wrong side, but he did that to get the AM/FM to work, 'cause he never used the CB. Oh, does anyone know if there is an adapter to allow me to connect my Rider Link headset, with a PS2 plug to the DIN plug on the Venture? I'm gonna look for some of my old PC keyboard adapters...
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Anyone know the factory setting for idle and how to adjust it if needed? Had my 64k service done today and don't believe it was done correctly. I could take it back and say fix it, but if they potentially didn't do it right the 1st time... At a stop light, clutch pulled in, idles around 1100 rpm. Put it in neutral to be curious and it shot up to about 2-2100 rpm. I am pretty sure before I brought it in for service, the idle rpm speed was about the same regardless of in gear w/ clutch lever pulled all the way in or in neutral. Really not sure why it would make a difference. It practically accomplishes the same thing. Going in the highway at 65 mph, was around 2500-3k. Kinda weird that neutral and 65 mph are just about the same rpm. Also while going 65 mph, pull in the clutch lever and you can still hear the engine rev the same rmp for a few seconds instead of an instant drop. It more or less goes at the 2500-3k rpm for a few seconds and then gradually drops. I am used to an instant drop and not a delay. When shifting gears you hear the engine rev between the shifts. It runs pretty close to like it used to when going from 4th-5th. To quote the paperwork "Unit idles irratic and hangs us sometimes. Unit will need a carb. clean in the near future" Well I put in a full can of seafoam this year. Granted it could have loosened up some debris, plugged the jets, etc...but before I brought it in I wasn't complaining. It seemed to handle the same way (until after it was serviced today) since I bought the bike back in June '08 and this is the 2nd service done by this dealer. Just a guess, but I doubt the previous owner did anything for carb cleaning additives. So not sure if a carb cleaning is in order. On the 64k service they did change the plugs, synch the carbs, & adjust idle (amongs other things, they went by the 4k service). Can the comment about unit idles irratic and hangs up sometimes be related to the carbs being synched incorrectly? One of my questions (got a list made up already) to the tech on Tuesday when the shop reopens, is did he notice the irratic idle before or after the carbs were synched. I am pretty sure I know the answer, but I want to hear it from him. It was litterally at the end of the day and shop had about 10 minutes until it closed. The techs were gone except for the service manager. Asked her about the carb cleaning cost. She said and I quote "It has 2 carbs so $160" What!!!!! 2 carbs.....and you are a yamaha service manager. Just a wild guess, but I believe there are 4. I have read stories like this on this board but never happened to me until now. And also, I'll pass on the carb cleaning. The jets might need pulled to make sure there aren't any debris in them, but I ain't gonna pay to have it done for that much and based on my past 2 experiences w/ them, I ain't gonna let them touch the carbs. Too much knowledge on this board and also people that can help out if need be. I also mentioned to her that it's weird that it needs the carbs cleaned since I put in a can of seafoam earlier in the year. She said yeah, that stuff works ok, but sometimes you just have to pull the carbs all apart to get them really clean. Quick poll of '99 owners that have taken their carbs all apart to clean them or felt it was necessary. Thanks
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OK, got the CarbTune out and put it on the '91. Figured it was a good time to sync now that the #4 diaphragm was repaired. Surprisingly the carbs weren't that far out. I little minor tweaking was all it took. Next I decided to change out the plugs, and left the carbtune hooked up overnight, rather than undo it, and have to hook it up again in the AM. The next morning I changed the plugs and fired up the motor. As expected the engine at high R's initially pulled lots of vacume, but after warming up, and the R's dropping down to a normal idle, the readings went back to normal. Flat all the way across. Blipped the throttle a little and noticed something which I also noticed at the higher idle RPM's. On the left side the vacume show'd higher than the other. At a steady 2000rpm there was about a 30% difference between the left and right side with the front and back carbs being balanced. 2 and 1 were equal, and 4 and 3 were equal, but the left, 2 and 1, was definitly higher. Now I'm wondering. What would cause that? At idle they are all equal, but the bike doesn't run down the road at idle, and I'd want all the carbs to be pulling equally in the higher R's... Maybe?? I wonder if syncing them at 2000rpm might be better, or is coming off idle equally better??? Whatcha think.
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Ok, so last night I installed the washers in the carbs to increase the fuel mileage and reduce the gas smell at idle. Before the change the bike ran pretty good. I decided to install (2) #4 washers on each carb in replacement of the original plastic one. The bike fire right up and ran great for a couple of minutes and then it died. Restarted her and she will idle, but as soon as you give it throttle, she would die. I then recalled something about the fuel/air ratio settings so I checked each of the screws. They were all at different settings. One was 6 full turns out, one was 5 1/2, another at 8 and the fourth one was 4 1/2 turns out. I reset them all to 2 1/2 turns out like suggested and now she won't even idle. Where should I go from here?
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Well my new to me 84 VR has a little carb trouble.It will start and run on the first click on the choke .Well last night I put berrymans carb cleaner and 2 new gallons of mid grade gas in it.Started the bike up let it run on choke to warm up ,took choke off ran the throttle by hand to get the idle to stay at 1000 on the tach. The bike purred great where or how can I adjust the idle to stay there.I am a good car mechanic but this bike thing is pretty new to me,so pics would be helpful. Thanks
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I rode with my buddy to the Harley shop the other day to get his idle speed adjusted. (08 Ultra Classic) His was running around 500 rpm and the oil light would come on at times. He was worried that it might be starving the top end on oil so it needed to be raised to around 950-1000. We pulled in at about 1100 with an appointment. They took the bike right back into the shop. We looked around for a while and then went to lunch. (2 250 pound guys on my Venture wasn't pretty!!) Making the long story shorter, about 1500(3pm) they come out and say it's ready. The guy said he was sorry for taking so long but that after every setting he had to turn the bike off and let it cool back down. After setting everything back to stock specs his bike went from getting 50mpg to about 40. He's not to happy with that. The idle is at 1000 though. I thought that was a lot of trouble for just getting the idle set. Yes I did show him how hard it was to adjust the idle on my Venture.
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I just finished the water temp voltmeter and oil pressure gauge install. I have a 4.1 mile trip to work where most of my milage is put on. I get poor milage usually and I was wondering. My engine doesn't even get to where the fan kicks on by the time I get to work and my oil pressure at idle is 20. when i take a longer trip ;the idle oil pressure is about 10, which is to be expected as the viscosity decreases. I wonder if my short trip mileage is bad because the engine is not warm enough? I remember I think between naps in my thermo classes many(38) years ago that the higher temps are more efficient as a rule. any thoughts?
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Looking for some suggestions as to what might be causing my Virago to idle high, at or near 2,000 rpm's. Just recently started doing it.
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I just got back from a ten day ride in the Smokey Mts and was it a blast. While I was there a had a couple of issues with my 08 RSV. Before I left home I change my oil, went with 5w-40 rotella syn, and noticed right away that the shifter became very smooth. Two days into the ride it felt like the clutch was slipping as it fully engaged or locked up. The bike would begin to move then it would shutter as I fully released the clutch. At one point we were stuck in stop and go traffic, the bike very warm, the shutter was really bad. That night at the motel I change the oil to 15w-40 rotella, and the clutch smoothed out. Was it the oil, the heat from the engine or do I have some weak clutch springs? As we rode up the to higher altittudes my RSV seem to run better. No chirps, lots of power and very smooth. On day five we dropped down into Maggie Valley and I noticed my bike had a loss of power and a rough idle. We had been riding some wet roads after a good rain so I suspected I had a coil problem. Took the bike into the Asheville NC dealer the next morning and he said that all the plugs, wires and coils were good. I had used some Seafoam a couple of days earlier and he said that he had seen a lot of carb problems caused by Seafoam settling in the float bowl so he drained all the carbs. This just didn't make any logical sence to me but when I got my bike back it was running better. My bike has always had kind of a weak idle and backfires once in a while when you rev it up (sitting still). I should add that I run RK no cat pipes, K&N filters, the air boxes have been opened up and the AIS plugged off. The dealer did check the carb syn and said it was good. Could I have had a little water in one of my float bowls? And is my bike too lean on the Idle jets (needs a shim job)?
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I came across this information while looking for other stuff and I have never heard this procedure or tool mentioned in regards to carb sync. Can anyone comment on this? The later models of Yamaha (1982 & newer) use a YICS ( Yamaha Induction Control System) which is basically a vacuum balancing system in the intake manifold. A gallery is located just below the intake passages connecting all four intakes together via small air passages (approx. 1/8" ) the gallery itself is approx. 3/8" in diameter and 16" long on the 1100's. ( one of these days I'll convert to metric )To balance the carbs and set the idle mixtures properly the YICS must be rendered deactive so a true vacuum can be established. A special tool is required to seal the YICS passages while this adjusting is going on. The tool incorporates three rubber hose sections to act as seals, they are located in such a way as to isolate the passages from each other. To use just remove the gallery plug, it's located on the left side of the engine just below the carburetor inlets, should be 12mm. Slide the tool all the way in until the fender washer come in contact with the tube. Now while holding the bent part of the treaded rod tighten the wing nut till firm. Hook up your gauges or carb sticks. Start the engine and allow to warm up. It is normal for the engine to idle slower than normal so you may have to increase the idle speed to 1000 - 1200 rpm. Now proceed to adjust the idle mixture on each carb for maximum rpm. should be approx. 1- 1/2 turns out. Sync. the carbs for even intake vacuum balance. Shut down and remove the gauges & YICS tool tighten the gallery plug to 100 inch pounds ( firm but not gorilla ) reset the idle speed and your finished!! How it works, tightening the wing nut squashed the rubber hose sections and causes them to grow in diameter sealing against the gallery walls. the section closest to the wing nut is positioned directly under the #1 cylinder passage sealing this on from #2,3&4 the second seal is set between #2&3 isolating these two and the end seal is between #3&4 so intake vacuum is now independent and not shared by the other cylinders. BTW the YICS system helps the cold start back fire that the non-Yics machines are prone to. You can achieve similar results on the older machines by connecting the carbs together. just get some rubber gas line and two tee connectors remove the rubber plugs from the balance tubes and hook the four carbs together using the tees on #2&3 and the rubber hose. You'll notice a slightly faster and smoother idle.
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Thanks to all--Finishing re-installing the carbs last night at 21:30. Sooooooooooo much fun--cross threaded the back bolt on the fuel tank-other than that just very time consuming and tedious. Floats at .33--idle at 2 3/4 tu:banana:rns out from stop--fuel filter--air filters--plugs. Heart pounding as I attempted to start her up--nothing--what now? Woops emergency shut off dummy. Ok try it again--wow immediate snarl and a fast smooth idle.. Check exhaust--ya hot stuff on both sides--no gas spurtting out Wait a couple of minutes--now the big test--ease in the choke By golly its idling on its own--adjust the idle speed--Ya baby. Drove her to work this am--wow what a treat--smooth both on and off throttle How sweet--The Fire Truck is back on the road. Thanks to all you folks that helped me through this endeavor--very rewarding. ED -
I just read with intense interest another thread about one member soliciting opinions from others about their analysis of a couple of his spark plugs. IMHO the two (?) plugs he pictured appeared quite normal to me. But during the course of that thread one member mentions (screen name slips my memory at the moment) injecting Seafoam directly into the vacuum tube on the intake. Then he states that after this treatment replacing the plugs is highly recommended. That leads me to my question. When treating suspected gunked up carbs after a scoot has set dormant for a long period of time, in other words using a high concentration of Seafoam, can this treatment be the cause of permanent sparkplug damage? I have read here that some may dump as much as a full can and even more into a full tank of gas. That seems like quite a lot to me. Others have even written they've applied 100% Seafoam into the carbs while running. I am just curious if an overuse or high concentration can be cause for damaging sparkplugs. I've used the stuff only once on my current VR because the carbs were in fact clogged somewhere and the Seafoam did absolutely nothing. I therefore removed the carb bank, dissassembled all four and had them vatted; reassembled and, whoalah; perfect. But I did not drain and replace the gas that had the high concentration of Seafoam. But I still get a slight miss, pop, cough (however we all may describe these things) at idle. I replaced all the wires and caps and the doggone thing still pops, misses, etc at idle. The carbs are a synced as close as I can get them with my Carbtune. I am now wondering if the application of Seafoam may have permanently fouled or damaged one of the plugs. Any thoughts? Oh yeah, no vacuum leaks anywhere; checked till I was blue in the face. Thanks Herb
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I went to Bummer's house yesterday and he helped me sync my carbs(Thank you Bummer). We weren't actually able to sync them all though because the right front carb had no vacuum on the carbtune. We evened out the other three and adjusted the idle and it runs better than before but still cuts out sometimes. I checked the diaphram and it looks good. The cylinder is still firing at least sometimes because if I pull that plug wire off the is a difference in the idle. Any suggestions on where to start looking? -
Ok, I have completely gone through the carbs, everything is clean and unobstructed. Even installed new diaphragms. Sync is about as close as I can get it using a carbtune. New plugs even. Yet at idle I am still getting an occassional popping or chuffing (whatever) and if hit hard from idle, it doesn't rev immediately; sort of wants to stammer then rev. What am I missing here? Any advise would be most helpful. -
First let me say I have been thru many types of carbs. This spring while getting my '87 on the road after 2 years of working on the engine I misdiagnosed a carb issue ...which was actually the boost sensor leaking. Also, I should have known better since the carbs had been drain dry 2 years ago. BUT now I have rebuilt the carbs. Using the "Gunk" bucket for all internal jets and housings. Which infact the carbs were quite spotless from the beginning. HERE'S the ODD thing(s). (1) I can do a 1st morning start with NO CHOKE just by twisting the throttle on a 70 degree day. And it will idle at 600 and slowly warms to the standard 950 or so. Not needing the choke at all. I could never do this prior to my carb work. CAN ANYONE ELSE DO THIS??? If I want, it will start w/half choke and rev to 2500 or so. I did set the low speed jets(w/digital tach) and the bike will idle forever and not load up. I do have new slide assys that I install 8k ago.. On the highway it not as smooth at my usual cruising speed of 72mph as I remember. I have removed my Jason-MOD so I could get an honest reading of the spark plugs. I removed the spark plugs after a good long ride,to check them. Oddly there are 2 colors on each...like a zebra. Light on one side and dark brown on the other side. Carbs are sync'd at idle and 3000rpm. My mileage on my 1st 2 tanks have been 41 back roads(tank 1) and 37.5 mostly highway(tank 2), but faster than 70mph. I used to get 40mpg all the time. I will say the bike pulls w/o any hesitation no matter what the temp. guage reads. So could she be too rich above idle? Floats are set to spec-16mm below middle mark. Checked both on(by shimming the center stand for perfect level) and off the bike.Lastly, when I did the rebuild I did not replace the o-rings(looked good under the magnifine glass) and rubber plugs. I think now:think: maybe I should have...ugh! Wish I had an EGA machine. Nearest dealer with one is 35 miles away. AND making an appointment is not easy. I don't leave my bike at the dealer. I would really like it if you guys could please give me your input before I order $80 in parts and yank the carbs. PS, trying to get this done by end of this month. Americade is almost here... -
I'm having a problem with the 86 I just picked up that was in storage for a pretty long time. I have it idling just fine but whenever I increase the rpms to lets say 2000 it just pops and sputters. But if I give it full throttle, it seems to rev to higher r's without missing a beat. There are three circuits: 1) low speed circuit (idle) controlled by the idle mixture screws 2) mid range circuit - controlled by the pilots jets 3) high speed circuit - controlled by the main jets Would any agree or disagree that I most likely am dealing with clogged or partially clogged pilots? Thanks
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This is my day to work on this bike. It is new to me, an 86 with 20,000 miles. When I picked it up, it wouldn't idle without choke, but ran pretty good on the road without choke. I just replaced the 4 diaphrams and did the 2 ss washer mod on the needles. 1 of the diaphragms was completely seperated from the slide and all had a few holes. Now the bike will not run without choke and if I rev it it wants to die. Will not stay running without choke and backfires a little while running. I have to adjust the idle with the choke. Seems like its running too lean. Trying to synch the carbs but can't get it to go without the choke. The indicators on the carbtune are moving but don't seem to be too high up on the gauge. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Kevin -
Stopped in a dealer a few days ago just to look around. Found an 86 VR with 21,000 miles stuffed in a corner. Unfortunately I took it for a test drive (dealer had to jump it). Made a lowball offer and now I own it. Anyway, it has some issues I need to fix. Bike will idle with choke on , although it pops a bit when cold. When it warms up, backing off the choke causes a slowing idle until it finally dies. Could this be clooged/dirty pilot jets and will Seafoam cure the problem? Seems to run great off idle and all the way to redline. Second, Class is dead. No display at all (on ACC). Looks like a loose airline has been ziptied up near the front of the plastic gas tank cover. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Now I need to sell my 84. Thanks Kevin
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Friends I've heard the idle pilot holes are very small on our bikes. Has this become a problem for any of you getting plugged (rough idle)? Wyoming Tom
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On a ride the other day I noticed a vibration when under power. If I pulled in the clutch at speed, the bike was very smooth. I figured that before I started down the mechanical road, such as checking the u-joint, I would check the carb sync. After a ride to get it up to temp, I shut it off and hooked up my four tube mercury sync tool. I started it up and it was slightly off so I tweaked it a little and my idle got a little smoother. One of the things I also do is bring the bike up to about 3000 rpm's and see how close they are at that point using the throttle lock to hold rpm's. I noticed this time that I had a bit of difference from carb to carb. I adjusted to bring them back even, but when I brought it back down to idle, I was off a little again. I have not checked my diaphrams yet and am planning on replacing them but I was wondering if anyone else runs their engine to a higher rpm when syncing carbs. You just need to bring the the rpm's slowly down to idle if you are using a mercury sync or it will suck the mercury into the carbs. RandyA
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I had my 08 carbs worked on as they were leaking, and since then it idles very slow and has died on me a few times. Do I have to tear a bunch of stuff down to get to the idle screws and when I do this do they need synch again? and not ever seeing the carbs on one of these what ones am I looking for? thanks:crying:
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Hello all, I am fairly new to the forum and this is my first post. I have a 1996 Royal Star Tour Classic and I am having carburetor problems. I have gas leaking out of 2 of the carbs. They are leaking from a screw near the bottom of each of the carbs. I was having problems with my idle lately so I tried the Seafoam enema and let the bike sit a day and then started it up. I was hoping that this would cure the idle problem and stop the gas leak but it did not cure the leaking. I am not sure what the purpose of the screws are so I am reluctant to try and give them a turn or two to see if the leakng will stop. Can anyone clue me in on the purpose of these screws and I would appreciate any input of ideas as to what my carb problem may be. Thanks Bob
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I have a friend who lives in Virginia Beach and he is having problems with his scoot and needs some help. He has a 1980 Honda CB 750 that sat for about 18 months. All things considered he says the bike runs well, with 1 exception.................when he has the bike running it will not idle properly. He can't get the idle adjusted DOWN to the right rpm's. He said that he has tried adjusting the idle screw, and even accidentally backed it off so much the screw came out (evidently a real pain to put back in), and this does not effect the idle speed. He has contacted both Honda dealers in the area and they won't touch the bike because of the the year. Any suggestions on how to fix the idle or a good shop that he can take his bike too to look at the problem?
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Well went and picked the new road* today. I had one before i got the venture and I that it was a big boy. Well after the venture This thing felt like a toy for the first few miles. The FI has been a improvement over the 05 I had. After riding it for a while I remembered how good it handled around town. It is going to take some getting used to but I think I am going to like this bike. The one thing I did not like right off the bat is no Idle adjustment.Well I hope I can keep up with you all this year on the rides. Now it time to hit the corben seat site. Michael
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