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Showing results for tags 'hole'.
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There is a cast-in boss running across the top of the rear end drive, just aft of the joint between the torque tube and the drive. There is a rubber plug in the end of that boss. I need an attachment point and it looks like there might be a threaded hole behind the plug. The plug is very tight and I might destroy it while removing it. Does anybody know if there is a threaded hole behind it? Thanx, Woody -
Okay, I did find the Flanders Bar installation on the Ventures web site. These instructions looked pretty good, but ?? No where in the instructions did it say what to do with nipple on the box housing the cruise control and throttle grip. Looked at the original handle bar and there was a hole for the nipple. So for those of you that swapped bars, did you drill a hole in the Flanders Bar or file off the nipple of the housing? I drilled the hole. Not done with the install, but will finish tomorrow. -
I've read here that the hole behind the driver seat is the perfect size for a cigarette type power outlet, however, in looking at the powerlet brand, it needs a 1.125" hole & I measured the "perfect size" as .875". What brand will fit this hole without modification? Well, 1 more question: I'm not very good with modifying electrical stuff, so, how exactly do you modify the white plug near the battery that I've read about to work with a power outlet? And is it already fused? Thanks.
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Yamaha Billet Passenger Floorboard Backing Plates Smooth http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/images/STR-4NK27-03-01_150.jpg I had to edit this because ALL the Yamaha Dealers show a picture of the Tour Deluxe Plates for the RSV with an extra hole for the Ignition Switch on the left side. The only site with the right picture is Cruiser Customizing. Mine DO NOT have the extra hole and are the Smooth ones only. Near as I can tell these fit all RSVs, Royal Star Standards, and 96/97 RS Tour. If you don't have your ignition switch on the left plate these will fit. Otherwise you'd have to drill a hole for the ignition and would compromise the chrome. (not recommended) Here's the link to CruiserCustomising with reveiws. http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?model_ID=0&Category_ID=6&manufacturer_ID=165&product_ID=3135 I have a bunch of these for sale and will be listing them on eBay for $75-85. I will sell them to members for $65.00 shipped in USA. They are all new and are the smooth model. Some of the packaging/cardboard is a little funky but the plates are not affected. I take Paypal and/or checks, my e-mail is theeddys@fairpoint.net I will consider trades and could use a new kickstand. I also have saddlebag guards for the Royal Star and a couple of Royal Star chrome rotor covers. I'll be away in Durango, Co for a week ... leaving Labor Day thru Sat.
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Hi, I am short one bodywork bracket for my red '84. I wondered if anyone here might have an extra they'd part with? The bracket I need is the one that holds the bodywork piece just near where the front left lower faring turns to join the picece that goes under the radiator. It anchors the plastic to one of the mounting bolts for the LHS engine case guard. Its a small right angle piece that has a threaded hole on the bodywork end and an open hole at the case guard end. I hope I am being clear. Anyone got one that for a few bucks they'd put it in the mail to me? Thanks, Brian H.
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It is my understanding that there is a difference between the MKI and MKII on the difference in the diameter of the hole in the slides. I read in another post about using a dinajet kit and it said with the weaker springs, the slide hole needed to be opened up and frankly, that did not make sense to me. I would have thought that weaker springs would require a smaller slide hole as a larger allows more vacuum to pull the slides open quicker as would weaker springs. What would opening up the hole do on the slide actuation, especially with the washer change and extending the needle out .030 more on an 83 model? RandyA -
There is a small hole in the front bottom of each muffler that I assume is a drain hole. when I push a small screw driver into he hole it only goes into the outer chamber of the muffler and not to the inside. I was running some Seafoam through the other day and noticed smoke coming out of the small drain holes. Is this normal for exhaust to come out of the drain holes? If you hold your hand under the hole the exhaust is coming out at a pretty good flow. Second question. I replaced the four engine exhaust gaskets. Now it appears that the left rear is leaking between the collector and rear left exhaust pipe. Should I have replaced the wide copper bands inside at each joint as well?
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CAUTION: HIGH RESOLUTION PICS. (I'VE DISCOVERED THE BEST WAY TO VIEW THESE PICS IS TO RIGHT-CLICK THE PICS, ONE AT A TIME, AND "OPEN LINK IN NEW TAB". VIEW THE PIC, CLOSE THE WINDOW, AND REPEAT FOR EACH PIC) Obviously before connecting up the trailer I mentioned above, I had to have a hitch since this bike came to me without one. I looked over the units available online and decided that their ideas were basically sound but I wanted to build mine as a receiver hitch to begin with, and wanted to save some cash as well. I removed the crossover bar behind the rear tire and measured it for width inside the attach flanges: 9” http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i140/Dave_Danger/Bike/Hitch%20Assembly/?action=view¤t=DSC04028.jpg I then purchased a 1 1/4" receiver hitch tube from a local automotive hitch dealer and cut it to the length that would place the receiver as close to the rear fender as possible. I then drilled a 7/8" hole thru the receiver tube from side-to-side, with the edge of the hole flush with the fwd (tire end) of the tube, then cut that hole open like a slot. I then began with a 9" x 9" piece of 3/16" thick steel plate, and cut all corners on a 45 degree angle, and folded the front edge (tire edge) 90 degrees straight up, and drilled a 3/4" hole in both aft corners for safety chains. http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i140/Dave_Danger/Bike/Hitch%20Assembly/?action=view¤t=DSC04030.jpg http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i140/Dave_Danger/Bike/Hitch%20Assembly/?action=view¤t=DSC04039.jpg http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i140/Dave_Danger/Bike/Hitch%20Assembly/?action=view¤t=DSC04041.jpg I then clamped all the pieces together tightly and welded all joins in a series of 3/4" stitch beads. http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i140/Dave_Danger/Bike/Hitch%20Assembly/?action=view¤t=DSC04046.jpg Reinstalled the whole assembly to the bike and slipped in a 1 7/8" ball mount that I had left over from a previous vehicle... oila! Really slick, nearly hidden receiver hitch. http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i140/Dave_Danger/Bike/Hitch%20Assembly/?action=view¤t=DSC04053.jpg http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i140/Dave_Danger/Bike/Hitch%20Assembly/?action=view¤t=DSC04049.jpg I have about $50.00 worth of materials and outside machine shop work in it. Not counting my design, fitting and welding time.
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How or where do you lube the throttle cables on a 2nd gen? Mine seem to be binding and if I turn the handlebars completely to the right, the throttle will stay where ever it was left at. There is some sort of junction, plastic oval shaped device on left side under gas tank. This has a hole in it. Should I squirt 'Fluid Film' or 'WD-40' in there or take it apart? It seems awkward to take apart as the screws are on the back side towards the frame. Please help as I am hopelessly lost here and I was hoping to go for a ride in the morning. Thanks.
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I`ve read some posts on this subject .My right front anti dive is leaking from weep hole.Did anyone find a fix for this ?? looks like posts say U have to replace valve. I believe its an air hole with some kind of check valve to keep fluid in. if I plug hole might make matters worse??? Some say i can eliminate valves completely,which I might consider. Read 1 east fix to remove banjo and short brake line and plug hole where banjo went to antidive .what would u use to do this ? is it a standard metric bolt .any help greatlt appreciated JB
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Will try to post this photo OK!! it worked--- Delta Airlines Recent lighting Strike--- I worked on a lot of planes with Strikes over the years, but thats the biggest hole I ever saw. Not to say there has not been worse.
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I decided to jump on the bandwagon and add a temperature gauge to my bike. I already had a volt meter and didn't care that much for an oil pressure gauge so I just mounted a water temp gauge. Instead of mounting it in the cassette space I decided to mount it to the handlebars with a ram mount. I ordered the parts from egauges.com and went with an Autometer Marine gauge because it was more water resistant. Marine Water Temp http://www.egauges.com/vdo_ind.asp?T...=ATM-200762-35 I also bought the adapter for the sending unt but that didn't work due to a ridge around the hole in the head. The adapter is fairly thin and when screwed into the head the hex is recessed into the ridge which prevented me from being able to get a socket on the hex of the adapter to tighten it into the head. So I used Goose's idea of using a non-fouler and brass 1/2" fitting. Adapter http://www.egauges.com/vdo_indA.asp?PN=R7965 For a housing I used a chrome VDO mounting cup which I modified. I didn't care for the way the housing mounted so I drilled a 5/16 hole into side along with a 3-48 set screw hole. I then mounted the cup to a ram mount plate which had a 1/4-20 threaded hole in the center (http://www.ram-mount.com/ramwebcompthumb/ramb202a.jpg). The gauge fit loosely into the mount so I wrapped a few layer of plastic tape around the gauge until it was a nice press fit into the mounting cup. I am hoping that also acts as a gasket to keep water out. If not it should drain out the back at the wire hole. While it seemed secure at this point I decided to add a 3-48 set screw to make sure it stayed in place. Housing http://www.egauges.com/vdo_indA.asp?PN=240-017 It was a fairly easy install even though I ended up with a coolant leak at the sender which I will address tomorrow. I would like to thank V7Goose and Jlh3rd for their posts and advice on their gauge installations. I probably wouldn't have tackled this without them. Here are a few photos. Dennis
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I am needing to find the plug that goes into the hole to hide the bolt for the handle bar adjustment nut. Any suggestions? Thanks
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I was reinstalling the the giant "Yamaha" reflector the other day on my 86' and smashed a huge hole in it. Anybody have one for sale? Thanks! Great forum!
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I bought a lift adapter from Carbon_One in September. I did not try to use it until December. When I attempted to put the pin through, it would not go. The pin would only cover half the hole. Has anyone else had this problem??? Yes, I had it facing in the right direction.... Now I have a lift adapter that I cannot use... -
Hi, I've been looking over the fixes for this. Dragin Tail says he shoved grease into where the cable goes using the cable. Yammer Dan did that but had no lasting success. Yammer, what did you do in the end? RandyA says to put grease down into the bearing area. How? From which end - the inside or the bottom (cable fitting)? As an alternate you suggest pushing grease up the cable hole. I've found that to be a blind hole which does not lead to the bushing - how do you mean? GeorgeS, your writeup also indicates to put lube in where the cable attaches. How do you effectively do that? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8296 I have tried the method of shooting oil up the housing with compressed air twice. First time was with motor oil, second was lighter household oil. In both cases I held the wheel end of the housing up as high as I could, dumped a bunch of the stuff in there, and then applied air pressure. Started with short bursts, then also tried longer application of air. I immediately installed the cable and ran it a little with a drill to help distribute the oil. I then let the excess drain from the housing. In neither case did it fix the problem, at least not longer than 3 or 4 days. It did not, however make a mess inside the speedo. I don't think there's any open hole from the cable attachment to the inside of the unit. Please advise further before I tear into the thing! Thanks, Jeremy -
Thought there used to be a thread section for "All other bikes" but couldn't find it so I just put it in the Watering Hole. My son just put a new straight pipe on his bike. It has no baffles. He wants to know if he needs to have it rejetted. Appreciate any advice.
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Some of you seemed to enjoy my recent photos from Utah and I found time this weekend to upload a few photos from our 2007 trip to Yellowstone and Glacier National parks. This trip was with basically the same group and our wives flew in and out of Jackson Hole, WY. We made this trip in July of '07 and the Going to the Sun road had only been open for a week or so. We also rode Beartooth Highway from Red Lodge to Cooke City. Attached is our route out of Jackson Hole. The photos can be seen at: www.traynorphoto.com/Glacier/ Dennis
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My tach has always been slow on my 86. This was nothing to be very concerned about but it was always on my mind that it could be this way because of something electrical about ready to fail. What with the tach receiving its signal from number 2 coil which in turn runs it through the TCI box then on to the tach. I have always read anything on this site that was tach related in hope of pinpointing what it was that made mine run slow. I have been told that my TCI could be faulty, my #2 coil faulty, bad ground to maybe just a boggy tach. Well the search is over! After running the diagnostic check of the wiring to the TCI. NOT IT. Check of coils. NOT IT. Adding a second ground wire. NOT IT. The problem was the tach itself. I removed it from the housing to look it over and clean it using some electrical contact cleaner. My brother-in-law was here when I took it out and he said that it just looked as if it needed lubed up to free it up. He grabbed the can of Sili-kroil and began to ever so lightly lube the needle mechanism while moving it toward redline and letting it go. After five minutes of this. THAT WAS IT! It is now free as the RPM it reads. Upon further inspection it seems that on the backside of the instrument cluster box that houses the tach and speedometer, on the tachs side of it. There is a unplugged hole that looks as if it should hold a light but there is no provision for one there. Being a 86 this hole has let moisture and the elements into the tachs cluster for 22 years a very unnecessary and troublesome hole that is now plugged. More than enough time to gum up my tach. So if your tach is boggy don't rule out that all it might need is a good clean & lube.
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I put in the clearview and when I went to install the chrome piece in sits in there fine but on the l side the hole is bigger than the bolt that came out. The backing is gone from inside the hole and originally I dropped the bolt inside and had to retrieve it.The r side is fine so the chrome piece is up there but I am afraid to leave it with one bolt as I believe a wind may yank it off. I guess I could get a slightly longer bolt and use a washer but I think that would be unsightly. Any suggestions??? All ideas welcome. I am sure I am not the first to have to face this!! Thanks jb
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I found out that I don't have any reserve fuel when the engine quits in the on position. Luckily I had just turned onto the street in front of my house. I took the valve apart and the seal looked good. When I put a quart of fuel in the tank and held my finger over either hole coming from the tank, it would drain all the fuel out the other hole. Has anyone else had this problem? Do I need to buy a new valve assy?
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81 Honda cm400t, been sitting since '84, inside has a tar look to it, gas doesn't drain from shutoff hole at all. even with shutoff valve off. Any help on cleaning inside of tank appreciated. Shoved rubber tube up the hole, must have inch of tar like stuff blocking hole. Anything I can put in tank to desolve that stuff?
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Do the stock pipes that come on the bike have any holes exiting the back except for the large hole in the center? I noticed tonight that my pipes have about 8 holes drilled into the back around the center hole (and they don't look very professional). So I'm thinking the previous owner drilled them out to get some more sound. Just wondering...thanks!
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What is the story with that hole. I heard it was for a manual choke but i already got one on the left handlebar. I want to put a switch there for my driving lights. Is this gonna happen? Do they make them skinny enough to fit that hole and and enough room for the 3 blades underneath? An inquiring mind wants to know and also plug that annoying hole! PS. I forgot to tell you where the hole is. It is the one next to the ignition switch. -
Just a note for those of you who don't watch the Stickies at the top of the page. I have updated the VR Assistance list this evening. Details are in the Sticky at the top of the Watering Hole.
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