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Showing results for tags 'fuse'.
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Recently my 05 RSV has taken on the habit of blowing the headlight fuse whenever I switch to high beam. I was hoping some of you guys could give me some suggestions as to where to start. Thanks for your help. You guys are a weath of knowledge.
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87 venture-headlight and dash recently went out. cant find blown fuse and bulb oms ok..w-d40 ignition switch-no change
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The PO wired up air horns but they are wired to a different button on the handle bars that is not easily reached. Sort of defeats the purpose if I have to go hunting for the button every time. So, I want to use the original horn button. The compressor is mounted just under the passenger back rest, with the horns under the saddlebags. I have print outs and directions on wiring the relay into the horn switch. My questions are..... The instructions say "20 amp fused from batt to post 87". Is this an extra inline fuse direct to batt post or do I just come off the fuse block using that fuse? Can I hook into the pink and brown wires right down beside the OEM horn and run the 2 wires to the back or does it have to be hooked in up near the button for any reason? Can I remove both OEM horns or is there any reason I would have to leave leave one on. If I decide to add a steibel horn as well, (which I am thinking of doing) do I need to run a 2nd relay or can I just tap into the same circuit as the existing air horns. When I add running lights, do I use the same fuse as in question #1 , run another inline fuse or what?
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To any GM Tech's, I have noticed occasionally when I activate either turn signal, nothing happens. No green indicators or front or back outside lights. The 1st time it happened, I thought fuse! not knowing if the 4-way flashers are on the same fuse, I pushed the 4-way button, they worked. When I turned them off I noticed that the left turn signal was now working properly. Yes the lever was still pulled down to activate the left signal. When I moved the lever up to activate the right signal it too was working, again. Tonight it happened again. Again I activated the 4-ways and the problem was again corrected. Has anyone seen this happen? Is it common? This is a 2004 Impala 4-door sedan, with the 3400EFI engine. We have only had it a little less than a year. It has 178,000 miles on it.
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OK can a rookie do this I've read the fourms and got everything I need relay, aux fuse box heavy duty switch. I'm just asking before I take this on while my machine is laid up this week. QUESTIONS I HAVE: 1- Getting power from the battery to the relay, does the gas tank have to come off? 2- Relay and in-line fuse should it be somewhere other than inside the fairing 3- Swap out the headlight bulb for something different 4- how hard is it getting that fairing off I know I'll have more questions and your the ones to ask, Thanks for your imput and your help. Oh I have a 2008 RSV you may need to know that.
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any body know where the fuse is for the acc plug under the left side of the seat mine not working probally fuse.......thanks
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Okay, I was working on the new 86 and notice the horns not working. Okay simple answer is that the fuse is blown. I open the fuse box but no horn fuse there. I find an auxiliary fuse box with 5 and 10 blade fuses but no horn fuse there either. One of the 10 amp fuses was blown so thats taken care of but................ So i still am not sure where to find it. the schematic shows there is one, I've been on the different tech sections i just can't find any info on this location. i hope its not just out obvious someplace that I'm missing. Does anyone know where it is?????
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I have a RSTD 2007 and I have an after market faring on it. I usually put the ignition in the first position which allows you to have power come in to the bike without having the headlights on and I could play my stereo system when I am parked, but now there is no power in the ACC position. I have checked the fuse under the left side cover and it is good. Is there anothe fuse box on the bike that may controle the ACC power or could it be something else? I NEED HELP BAD!!! Thank. -
On the RSTD is there a fuse that controls the Auxiliary DC connector that is located under the drivers seat? Mine is no longer giving out 12 volts and I need to know what the problem could be if it is not a blown fuse? (2006 RSTD)
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I just got my '87 adVenture and I've posted an intro on the intro section. I had a couple tech questions and was invited to repost them here. It is a 1987 Royale, 39k miles. Original paint about C- condition, will probably look B- when cleaned up and waxed. All plastic seems to be there with a little cracking on fairing. Slight tear on seat which is otherwise very comfortable. All systems seem to work, except battery may need changed. Had to jump to start, but massive corrosion on positive post. Seems to run okay on the center stand, a little rough on idle, like carbs unbalanced. Sounds pretty good otherwise. Battery is on charger now to see if it will hold anything. It has a curious probe that goes down into the middle top of the battery with a wire attached and there is what appears to be a diode or resistor in that wire as well. Front tire is almost new and the rear looks good. This bike was ridden, but not much recently. Immediate plans are to get the battery issue resolved, possibly replace the main fuse with a blade fuse, maybe even the glass tube fuse block with blade fuses. I use printed circuit board fuse receptacles and epoxy them together in an array to fit inside the original fuse holder. Then I think I'll put a set of fresh plugs in, make sure I have good voltage to coils, maybe balance the carbs. Do the valves on these need adjusted or are they hydraulic like the 'Wing? Is there a sticky post on trouble spots to take care of for new owners (other than basics of oil, tires, etc)?
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All my lights work except the headlight? I bought the bike in pieces, I was told by the previous owner that they tore it apart trying to get the headlight working. I reassembled it and it runs great. The led goes through its checklist and everything checks out fine. I have power to and from the fusebox, but no headlight. I went to the harness behind the headlight and fed the system from there on a toggle switch with a fuse and it works fine, high and low beam. I can probably ride it forever like this but I would still like to find the problem and return it to the stock setup. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Ray. -
What is the thing with all the blue blade connections just below the fuse box? And while we are at it, what is just to the right of the fuse box? http://db.tt/mzfG4Eyb
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Guysneed some help. went to replace my tailight bulb on my 99RSV with led board, blew the 15amp fuse. but it in again was ok for a few min, so I put the tools away. blew the fuse. changed fuse put old bulb in seems to be fine. Is there something else I need to do to put this so called plug and play led. its the 32 not the 100. -
Just starting to "button" it up and only thing left is the engine guard brace. Projects this winter were : => connect Zumo 660 (with Buddy Rich cable) => add fuse block and rewire passing lights and trailer to it => connect gps tracking device => add "cigarette lighter"/accessory connection => connect battery tender quick disconnect For the Zumo... the cradle has wires that are long enough to go into the fairing. With the length of cable supplied with the Buddy Rich cable I ended up having extra wire in the fairing so put some velcro on the inside of the back of the fairing and tie wrapped the cables (with velcro) and stuck it to the backside of the fairing. The fuse block is a ganged 6 fuse ATC so it has : Stebel horn; passing lights; gps; gps tracker; accessory outlet; and trailer connected. Full already ! Slipped in behind the battery. You might be able to see in the picture I put labels on the block showing what was connected and the amp fuse to use (except for the tracker) and labelled the wires as well. In running the wires from the block to the fairing I used split tubing to protect the wires and make them look nice where visible. For the GPS tracking device, it comes with an adapter which I attached to the back fairing using velcro and slipped the tracker under the cassete deck and used velcro again to keep it from rattling/moving. The accessory connection is straight to the fuse block. I didn't use the factory connector under the seat. I might reposition the battery tender connection but for now it is easy to get to.
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Hello, I'm getting my 1985 VR 1200 up and I'm haveing some problems. I started with charging my old battery, I Put it back in and the battery light came on and the main fuse went when I went to start it, I replaced the fuse and tryed again. The battery is old so I went and got a new one and some fresh gas, charged the new battery put it in and the bike with the fresh gas, It will turn over faster now but dose not even try to start up, The battery light still comes on also. The bike worked fine when I put it away for for the winter. Anyone know what I can do? Thanks, BMattie
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I've found this forum to be extremely helpful...payment was made last weekend and I'm now a supporting member. Slowly but surely, I'm knocking out the to do list on the 83 Venture. Unfortunately, new things are getting added to the list too. It's also a little inconvenient for me to work on the bike during the week. My garage is chock full, so the bike is at a friend's house. All the pictures here have been resized small for quick loading even on dial up or smartphone users. As of now, including purchase price, I've got about $450.00 invested in the bike. The newest thing that got added to the list is another oil leak. grrrr. Attached is a pic of where it's coming from. It's leaking at the plug just behind the sight glass for the oil level. I've snugged it up a little and the leak has slowed down. According to the microfiche, it's part # 4H7-15189-00-00 (15 on the diagram). What the diagram doesn't show is if there is anything under the plug. If I pull this plug to replace the o-ring, am I going to have parts come flying out at me or am I going to have to re-align something, or am I simply over thinking the issue. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/oil%20leak3.jpg Next on the original list was electrical. The fuse box was shot, so I replaced it. I just need to get a buss bar for the accessory circuit. Currently I just jumpered the only wire attached to the buss to the accessory fuse (green wire on new fuse box) I need to cut a piece of aluminum to the size of the original fuse box, drill it for the hold down screw and then attach the new fuse box and buss bar to it in order to securely mount it in the stock location. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/fuse%20before2.jpg http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/fuse%20after2.jpg On the original list was brakes. They were shot and the rear master cylinder was frozen. Got the rear master cylinder cleaned out and working, fortunately without the $70.00 rebuild kit, and now I just need to get the system filled and bled...ran out of brake fluid last Sunday when I was working on the bike and the auto parts store was closed by the time I found out that I needed more brake fluid. Also on the original list, but something that I didn't think was overly important is the computerized monitor. I know that it's somewhat important because of the oil pressure and other indicators, but since everything appeared to be functional, I didn't have it high on the priority list...until I noticed that the headlight wasn't working all the time. I thought it was a dirty dimmer switch or a loose connection. Reading on here that the headlight runs through this monitor, this has moved up on the priority list. I'll pull it apart and resolder everything. Hopefully that will get it working correctly. If not, the bike is getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge and the headlight will be straight wired through a relay. I know the idle speed is low. The bike has developed a miss in the front left cylinder at idle, but it clears up once the RPMs hit about 1500. I have new spark plugs and wires for it now...just have to put them in. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/dash%20error2.jpg My friend George, whose garage the bike is in, will be doing the bodywork soon and I'll do the painting. I just have to decide on the color. It's currently Harley Davidson Orange. I hate orange. I'm leaning towards a medium/light blue or grey. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/body%20parts2.jpg It looks pretty rough without it's clothes on http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/naked%20venture2.jpg I want to get this bike done and rideable by the end of March. I have 2 other projects that I want to get done before summer... My 73 Suzuki GT550 needs a top end and a repaint.... http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/gt5502.jpg And George's son has a 72 Kawasaki S2 that I need to go through and get running... http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/s22.jpg -
Figured that over the winter I'd redo some of my wiring on my 2nd Gen by adding a ganged fuse block. Sounds like a great idea... until you connect it and then try to figure out where to put it ! I also want to wire in a cigarette lighter for use with an air compressor and wire in my GPS. Also planning on connecting a GPS tracking device. Have Stebel horn with harness... relay on right side of battery. Passing lights with relay behind battery. Have trailer isolator behind battery. Now... fuse block... On top of battery? Seat won't sit down. Behind batter? Where to put the isolator? On top of battery? Seat won't sit down. Hmmm.... where else is there space? Side panels... no room.... centre of frame under back end of fuel tank? Nope... too congested with plumbing.... Options : - put the fuse block in the front fairing and leave the isolator behind the battery....but then would have to run power wire from battery compartment for isolator, horn, cigarette lighter to the fairing. The passing lights relay would be in the fairing. - move the isolator to outside of the plastic panel between battery and fender and fuse block behind battery... What have others done?
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Ok, I give up... where's the fuse located for the 12 v cigarette lighter plug? Interestingly enough the fuse box itself is not mentioned in the official Yamaha manual. What's up with that..... thanks
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I have some under the kitchen cabinette lighting. It has one of those touch sensor things that increase the light 3 brightness then off. Its about 2 to 3 years old and is used alot for it really brightens up the kitchen counters. One day my wife went to put it on and the touch switch flashed/sparked then nothing after that. SoI took about the controller circuit board and found a blown fuse. I unsoldier the fuse and then went looking for a 3amp 250 volt glass fuse (like an auto glass fuse). Places do have the fuse but I need one with fuseable wires at the end of the fuse so I can soldier it to the circuit board. None at Radio Shack. None at Fry's Electronic. So I cliped off one end of the wire off the old fuse and tried to soldier it to the new fuse. no luck the soldier won't stick to the metal end of the fuse. So then I went looking for a singel fuse holder that I could soldier. No luck. So I'm thinking, what if I bought an auto inline fuse and soldier it and found a place to tuck the fuse holder. Does anyone see any reason why that wouldn't work or be unsafe? Next I'll need to find a touch sensor switch for I'm guessing that the touch switch shorted out causing the fuse to blow.
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As I get things together to do my fuse block install, various relay bypasses and, hopefully, repair of my ignition switch, I noticed something in a couple of other threads on the subject. When someone talked of installing a fuse block next to the battery so that accessories can be run off that rather than off the battery terminal, there were a couple of suggestions to put an in line fuse between the battery and new fuse block. Why? I mean, it is a fuse block - don't those fuses give you the protection you need? Why have a fuse between the battery and fuse block? There may be a good reason, but I just don't see it. Anyone? Andy
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I mentioned in an earlier thread that my ignition switch has started to go (Have to wiggle it around to get things going). I am now attempting to install a fuse block (ATC style - 6 positions) and some relays (Driving lights, headlight) to avoid a repeat of this problem. I also plan on installing a switched bypass - just in case. In the meantime, I ran across a thread where someone disassembled their ignition switch, cleaned it and reinstalled it. I was wondering if this is worth the trouble? Will it last or die an early death? I read another thread that stated that sanding the contacts might remove all or most of any coating they had leading to an early failure. If this is true, I see no reason to do that much work only to have to replace the switch later. The stores in this area are light on parts so I had to get a 6 fuse block. It's a bit big, and trying to fit it near the battery is tricky. I'm thinking of attaching it by means of a hook and loop fastener to the rear fender just behind the driver's seat. The only other available spot is under the front of the driver's seat over the various vent hoses. As far as I can tell, the seat doesn't press it against the hoses but it is still a tight fit. The fender seems like a better option. I've attached pics of the block and the two potential mounting spots. If I go for the fender, I will have to attach something to the bottom of the block to fit between the existing wires - sort of a smaller pedestal. Squeezing it under those wires would make a fuse change too difficult. Does anyone see a disadvantage to the fender mount? There should be enough weather protection but I could try to fabricate some kind of cover to give it a bit more protection if necessary. Sorry this is so long, but I want to get it right the first time. I hadn't planned on this and had been saving towards the upgraded clutch kit, which I also need. Now this has thrown me a bit of a curve as dollars are a bit tight these days- as most of us know only too well! Andy
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Has anyone had problems with their radio not producing sound. When I turn ther key on I hear like a pop and that is all i get. While it was still under warrenty the dealer fixed the volue control oN the handle bars. I checked the fuse. it is good so now I dont know what to do next. :Please help if you can.
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Need urgent help. I'm getting ready to leave for Biketoberfest in the AM and my brake lights quit working on my '04 Midnight Venture. I removed both seats and loosened up the wires underneath and the brakes started working again so I'm pretty sure it is a short somewhere. Now they have stopped working again. While troubleshooting voltage/grounds at the bulb socket I must have blown a fuse because now the tail light portion of the bulb does not work. Can anyone tell me where the fuse is for the tail/brake lights? Also, the grounds check good. Thanks for any help or suggestions
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Anyone knows the where abouts of skydoc_17. I've sent 2 pm's requesting information on the fuse kit and progressive springs but no answer.
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I'm hooking up 2 acessories and would like to know what gage wire and fuse to use on each? Hooking up a set of 55 watt Plattieum Burners driving lights. Hooking up 4 of these horns STEBEL MAGNUM DUAL TONE MOTORCYCLE HORNS MHS-22 CHROME Also
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