terryc
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Posts
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Joined
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Last visited
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Muffinman was the first responder - so it's his.
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I think some time ago someone said they would appreciate dead radios to experiment on. I’ve got one, send me your address if you want it. It only receives AM stations very weakly. The AUX input works fine.
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I my case it was the radio. Plugged a cheap auto antenna into the old one (you can do that with second gens) and nothing happened. Was able to get a ~fairly~ reasonably priced used replacement from Pinwall cycles, and that did the trick. I don't know what I did wrong, or if it was just going to go anyway, but it's working now. Expensive, but it could have been way worse. Now the bike's back together, and I swear I'm not going to mess with it again until fall. Time to ride.
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Mine's a second Gen, but the symptoms are exactly the same.
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No, I didn't hear a pop or anything, but if it isn't anything else.... Also this was the answer I was dreading so it will probably the the one I will get. Those units retail for something like $1200. Hopefully if that's the answer the dealer comes up with I can find a used one somewhere for a more reasonable price.
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There weren't any loose connections that I could find. I'm about 99.99% sure I got everything hocked up the way it is supposed to be. The spare antenna idea is a good one, but I don’t have one. So I gave up, and took it into the dealer. The fairing was off and everything is out in the open, so hopefully they won’t beat me up ~too~ bad when I get the bill. Hopefully they can figure it out. One quick question though, any of you guys that have worked on your amplifier before: do you disconnect the battery first? I didn’t, I’m wondering if I might have zapped it somehow. I'll report back what the dealer comes up with.
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Well, I could probably do that if I knew what I was doing. I'm thinking that there is only one antenna connection to the amp, that being the bullet shaped connector. I'm also thinking that the AM/FM antenna is the one without the load on it, and that it should be on the right hand side (while sitting in the saddle). Am I thinking correctly? I have to admit that I kinda screwed up the cassette while removing it, so reconnecting it to see if that makes the problem go away isn't feasible. Otherwise I would have done that right off. I can get one off eBay for $40, but that's kind of expensive for a long shot.
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Update: As it turns out I can pull in a couple of AM stations, very poorly. No FM at all, and normally they come through loud and clear.
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I’m desperately hoping someone here can give me a clue, my radio has died and I have no clue what to do. I pulled out the cassette player to make a spot to stick my iPod. When I put everything back together the radio no longer works. It acts like the antenna isn’t there, the aux input plays fine, but I get nothing on FM and only static on AM and CB (though I never use the CB so maybe there just isn’t any traffic around here). The connector is plugged into the amp. I checked continuity back from the plug that goes into the amp to the antennas. Both the base and the antenna on the CB side checked out. On the radio only the base checked out, but I don’t know if that’s normal or not. There isn’t any connection between the cassette and the radio is there, I hope? Anyone have any ideas? Oh, this is a 2005 Venture.
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Yep, that was exactly the problem. I found that it would pop the fuse whever I turned the wheel to the right. That was a big clue. Just as has happened to several of you guys, the passing lamp wire bundle was getting pinched in the steering head stops. A little wire repair and application of electrical tape, along with a strategically placed zip tie to prevent a future reoccurance, and I am good to go. Although now that I have the fairing split I'm going to turn the cassette player into a "glove compartment", and attach my previously purchased Buddy Rich cable. I thank you all for the good advice.
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I knew you were joking before you said so, but I did run across some really sketchy advice presented as a viable option on another site. This guy said just put in a much higher rated fuse and then when it blows all you have to do is look for the melted wires, and there’s your problem. I think I’ll save that for my last option. Turns out my problem isn’t the headlight, and more intermittent than I had though. It blew while in low beam on the way home, and right now sitting in my garage its working fine in both low and high beam. So it’s an intermittent vibration induced thing I think. I guess it’s time to dig in and start looking around. The circuit breaker idea is a good one.
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This question may show my ignorance of electrical stuff, but if it’s a short in the wiring, and I disconnect the bulb entirely, should it still blow the fuse? Seems like that might be an easy and cheap way to tell if it’s the wire, or the bulb.
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I do have passing lights, and it is the EOM bulb. I do make a habit of running on high beam during the day. I have recently done some reading that a lot of bulbs don't have a long life expectancy on high. Have to wonder if that is true of the OEM bulb as well.
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I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure the fuse is correct. It worked fine for the two years I had the bike. Which does kind lend weight to the wire chafing theory. I had the fairing and the passing light bar off last winter, perhaps I put the wiring harness back in a bad position.
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Recently my 05 RSV has taken on the habit of blowing the headlight fuse whenever I switch to high beam. I was hoping some of you guys could give me some suggestions as to where to start. Thanks for your help. You guys are a weath of knowledge.