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Showing results for tags 'fuse'.
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On the RSTD is there a fuse that controls the Auxiliary DC connector that is located under the drivers seat? Mine is no longer giving out 12 volts and I need to know what the problem could be if it is not a blown fuse? (2006 RSTD) -
I just got my '87 adVenture and I've posted an intro on the intro section. I had a couple tech questions and was invited to repost them here. It is a 1987 Royale, 39k miles. Original paint about C- condition, will probably look B- when cleaned up and waxed. All plastic seems to be there with a little cracking on fairing. Slight tear on seat which is otherwise very comfortable. All systems seem to work, except battery may need changed. Had to jump to start, but massive corrosion on positive post. Seems to run okay on the center stand, a little rough on idle, like carbs unbalanced. Sounds pretty good otherwise. Battery is on charger now to see if it will hold anything. It has a curious probe that goes down into the middle top of the battery with a wire attached and there is what appears to be a diode or resistor in that wire as well. Front tire is almost new and the rear looks good. This bike was ridden, but not much recently. Immediate plans are to get the battery issue resolved, possibly replace the main fuse with a blade fuse, maybe even the glass tube fuse block with blade fuses. I use printed circuit board fuse receptacles and epoxy them together in an array to fit inside the original fuse holder. Then I think I'll put a set of fresh plugs in, make sure I have good voltage to coils, maybe balance the carbs. Do the valves on these need adjusted or are they hydraulic like the 'Wing? Is there a sticky post on trouble spots to take care of for new owners (other than basics of oil, tires, etc)?
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All my lights work except the headlight? I bought the bike in pieces, I was told by the previous owner that they tore it apart trying to get the headlight working. I reassembled it and it runs great. The led goes through its checklist and everything checks out fine. I have power to and from the fusebox, but no headlight. I went to the harness behind the headlight and fed the system from there on a toggle switch with a fuse and it works fine, high and low beam. I can probably ride it forever like this but I would still like to find the problem and return it to the stock setup. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Ray. -
I have a RSTD 2007 and I have an after market faring on it. I usually put the ignition in the first position which allows you to have power come in to the bike without having the headlights on and I could play my stereo system when I am parked, but now there is no power in the ACC position. I have checked the fuse under the left side cover and it is good. Is there anothe fuse box on the bike that may controle the ACC power or could it be something else? I NEED HELP BAD!!! Thank.
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What is the thing with all the blue blade connections just below the fuse box? And while we are at it, what is just to the right of the fuse box? http://db.tt/mzfG4Eyb
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Guysneed some help. went to replace my tailight bulb on my 99RSV with led board, blew the 15amp fuse. but it in again was ok for a few min, so I put the tools away. blew the fuse. changed fuse put old bulb in seems to be fine. Is there something else I need to do to put this so called plug and play led. its the 32 not the 100. -
Just starting to "button" it up and only thing left is the engine guard brace. Projects this winter were : => connect Zumo 660 (with Buddy Rich cable) => add fuse block and rewire passing lights and trailer to it => connect gps tracking device => add "cigarette lighter"/accessory connection => connect battery tender quick disconnect For the Zumo... the cradle has wires that are long enough to go into the fairing. With the length of cable supplied with the Buddy Rich cable I ended up having extra wire in the fairing so put some velcro on the inside of the back of the fairing and tie wrapped the cables (with velcro) and stuck it to the backside of the fairing. The fuse block is a ganged 6 fuse ATC so it has : Stebel horn; passing lights; gps; gps tracker; accessory outlet; and trailer connected. Full already ! Slipped in behind the battery. You might be able to see in the picture I put labels on the block showing what was connected and the amp fuse to use (except for the tracker) and labelled the wires as well. In running the wires from the block to the fairing I used split tubing to protect the wires and make them look nice where visible. For the GPS tracking device, it comes with an adapter which I attached to the back fairing using velcro and slipped the tracker under the cassete deck and used velcro again to keep it from rattling/moving. The accessory connection is straight to the fuse block. I didn't use the factory connector under the seat. I might reposition the battery tender connection but for now it is easy to get to.
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I've found this forum to be extremely helpful...payment was made last weekend and I'm now a supporting member. Slowly but surely, I'm knocking out the to do list on the 83 Venture. Unfortunately, new things are getting added to the list too. It's also a little inconvenient for me to work on the bike during the week. My garage is chock full, so the bike is at a friend's house. All the pictures here have been resized small for quick loading even on dial up or smartphone users. As of now, including purchase price, I've got about $450.00 invested in the bike. The newest thing that got added to the list is another oil leak. grrrr. Attached is a pic of where it's coming from. It's leaking at the plug just behind the sight glass for the oil level. I've snugged it up a little and the leak has slowed down. According to the microfiche, it's part # 4H7-15189-00-00 (15 on the diagram). What the diagram doesn't show is if there is anything under the plug. If I pull this plug to replace the o-ring, am I going to have parts come flying out at me or am I going to have to re-align something, or am I simply over thinking the issue. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/oil%20leak3.jpg Next on the original list was electrical. The fuse box was shot, so I replaced it. I just need to get a buss bar for the accessory circuit. Currently I just jumpered the only wire attached to the buss to the accessory fuse (green wire on new fuse box) I need to cut a piece of aluminum to the size of the original fuse box, drill it for the hold down screw and then attach the new fuse box and buss bar to it in order to securely mount it in the stock location. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/fuse%20before2.jpg http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/fuse%20after2.jpg On the original list was brakes. They were shot and the rear master cylinder was frozen. Got the rear master cylinder cleaned out and working, fortunately without the $70.00 rebuild kit, and now I just need to get the system filled and bled...ran out of brake fluid last Sunday when I was working on the bike and the auto parts store was closed by the time I found out that I needed more brake fluid. Also on the original list, but something that I didn't think was overly important is the computerized monitor. I know that it's somewhat important because of the oil pressure and other indicators, but since everything appeared to be functional, I didn't have it high on the priority list...until I noticed that the headlight wasn't working all the time. I thought it was a dirty dimmer switch or a loose connection. Reading on here that the headlight runs through this monitor, this has moved up on the priority list. I'll pull it apart and resolder everything. Hopefully that will get it working correctly. If not, the bike is getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge and the headlight will be straight wired through a relay. I know the idle speed is low. The bike has developed a miss in the front left cylinder at idle, but it clears up once the RPMs hit about 1500. I have new spark plugs and wires for it now...just have to put them in. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/dash%20error2.jpg My friend George, whose garage the bike is in, will be doing the bodywork soon and I'll do the painting. I just have to decide on the color. It's currently Harley Davidson Orange. I hate orange. I'm leaning towards a medium/light blue or grey. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/body%20parts2.jpg It looks pretty rough without it's clothes on http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/naked%20venture2.jpg I want to get this bike done and rideable by the end of March. I have 2 other projects that I want to get done before summer... My 73 Suzuki GT550 needs a top end and a repaint.... http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/gt5502.jpg And George's son has a 72 Kawasaki S2 that I need to go through and get running... http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/s22.jpg -
Before I go and replace my horns, what should i look for to make sure, its not a lose wire or fuse? Locations?
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I experienced electrical gremlins last fall on my 1990 Royale. Strange behaviors. Too intermittent to diagnose specifically, but there seemed to be some relationship to the ignition switch and/or the "IGNITION" fused circuit. I know that ignition switch problems are not very frequent on First Generation Ventures, unlike the Second Gens, never the less I felt I may be having an issue with mine. So to cure possible problems with IGNITION fuse and the ignition switch, I replaced the OEM fuse block with a new fuse block that accepts ATC fuses and I added an "ACCESSORIES" auxiliary block. This auxiliary accessories fuse block is only energized when ignition switch is at ACC or ON. To prevent excessive current draw through the ignition switch, I fed the auxiliary accessories block via a 30Amp relay and 10GAuge wire. When the OEM ACC circuit is energized by the ignition switch, the relay is energized, closing the circuit from the battery to the positive lug post on the auxiliary accessories fuse block. To avoid grounding issues for added accessories, I created a common grounding terminal strip. This terminal strip is connected to the negative post of the battery with a short length of 10GA wire. The terminals on the terminal strip are electrically connected to each other with a heavy brass buss. The fuse blocks and terminal strip are mounted to the unvented maintenance free battery with double face foam "Gorilla" tape. The battery top presented a smooth surface for mounting via tape. This method probably wouldn't work for conventional batteries. I relocated the MAIN fuse to just in front of the Positive battery post. I relocated the CLASS fuse holder to under the other OEM fuse block that contains the AUDIO, BACKUP,etc. fuses for now, but I intend to utilize the remaining fuse position on the new "main fuse block" for the CLASS. Thank you, Earl for the fuse block.
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Figured that over the winter I'd redo some of my wiring on my 2nd Gen by adding a ganged fuse block. Sounds like a great idea... until you connect it and then try to figure out where to put it ! I also want to wire in a cigarette lighter for use with an air compressor and wire in my GPS. Also planning on connecting a GPS tracking device. Have Stebel horn with harness... relay on right side of battery. Passing lights with relay behind battery. Have trailer isolator behind battery. Now... fuse block... On top of battery? Seat won't sit down. Behind batter? Where to put the isolator? On top of battery? Seat won't sit down. Hmmm.... where else is there space? Side panels... no room.... centre of frame under back end of fuel tank? Nope... too congested with plumbing.... Options : - put the fuse block in the front fairing and leave the isolator behind the battery....but then would have to run power wire from battery compartment for isolator, horn, cigarette lighter to the fairing. The passing lights relay would be in the fairing. - move the isolator to outside of the plastic panel between battery and fender and fuse block behind battery... What have others done?
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As I get things together to do my fuse block install, various relay bypasses and, hopefully, repair of my ignition switch, I noticed something in a couple of other threads on the subject. When someone talked of installing a fuse block next to the battery so that accessories can be run off that rather than off the battery terminal, there were a couple of suggestions to put an in line fuse between the battery and new fuse block. Why? I mean, it is a fuse block - don't those fuses give you the protection you need? Why have a fuse between the battery and fuse block? There may be a good reason, but I just don't see it. Anyone? Andy
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I mentioned in an earlier thread that my ignition switch has started to go (Have to wiggle it around to get things going). I am now attempting to install a fuse block (ATC style - 6 positions) and some relays (Driving lights, headlight) to avoid a repeat of this problem. I also plan on installing a switched bypass - just in case. In the meantime, I ran across a thread where someone disassembled their ignition switch, cleaned it and reinstalled it. I was wondering if this is worth the trouble? Will it last or die an early death? I read another thread that stated that sanding the contacts might remove all or most of any coating they had leading to an early failure. If this is true, I see no reason to do that much work only to have to replace the switch later. The stores in this area are light on parts so I had to get a 6 fuse block. It's a bit big, and trying to fit it near the battery is tricky. I'm thinking of attaching it by means of a hook and loop fastener to the rear fender just behind the driver's seat. The only other available spot is under the front of the driver's seat over the various vent hoses. As far as I can tell, the seat doesn't press it against the hoses but it is still a tight fit. The fender seems like a better option. I've attached pics of the block and the two potential mounting spots. If I go for the fender, I will have to attach something to the bottom of the block to fit between the existing wires - sort of a smaller pedestal. Squeezing it under those wires would make a fuse change too difficult. Does anyone see a disadvantage to the fender mount? There should be enough weather protection but I could try to fabricate some kind of cover to give it a bit more protection if necessary. Sorry this is so long, but I want to get it right the first time. I hadn't planned on this and had been saving towards the upgraded clutch kit, which I also need. Now this has thrown me a bit of a curve as dollars are a bit tight these days- as most of us know only too well! Andy
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Has anyone had problems with their radio not producing sound. When I turn ther key on I hear like a pop and that is all i get. While it was still under warrenty the dealer fixed the volue control oN the handle bars. I checked the fuse. it is good so now I dont know what to do next. :Please help if you can.
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I have some under the kitchen cabinette lighting. It has one of those touch sensor things that increase the light 3 brightness then off. Its about 2 to 3 years old and is used alot for it really brightens up the kitchen counters. One day my wife went to put it on and the touch switch flashed/sparked then nothing after that. SoI took about the controller circuit board and found a blown fuse. I unsoldier the fuse and then went looking for a 3amp 250 volt glass fuse (like an auto glass fuse). Places do have the fuse but I need one with fuseable wires at the end of the fuse so I can soldier it to the circuit board. None at Radio Shack. None at Fry's Electronic. So I cliped off one end of the wire off the old fuse and tried to soldier it to the new fuse. no luck the soldier won't stick to the metal end of the fuse. So then I went looking for a singel fuse holder that I could soldier. No luck. So I'm thinking, what if I bought an auto inline fuse and soldier it and found a place to tuck the fuse holder. Does anyone see any reason why that wouldn't work or be unsafe? Next I'll need to find a touch sensor switch for I'm guessing that the touch switch shorted out causing the fuse to blow.
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Need urgent help. I'm getting ready to leave for Biketoberfest in the AM and my brake lights quit working on my '04 Midnight Venture. I removed both seats and loosened up the wires underneath and the brakes started working again so I'm pretty sure it is a short somewhere. Now they have stopped working again. While troubleshooting voltage/grounds at the bulb socket I must have blown a fuse because now the tail light portion of the bulb does not work. Can anyone tell me where the fuse is for the tail/brake lights? Also, the grounds check good. Thanks for any help or suggestions
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Anyone knows the where abouts of skydoc_17. I've sent 2 pm's requesting information on the fuse kit and progressive springs but no answer.
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I'm hooking up 2 acessories and would like to know what gage wire and fuse to use on each? Hooking up a set of 55 watt Plattieum Burners driving lights. Hooking up 4 of these horns STEBEL MAGNUM DUAL TONE MOTORCYCLE HORNS MHS-22 CHROME Also
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this thing was put on by the PO but i cant find any info on it and think ill just yank it off, instead of trying to make it work it does not have fuse in it so im afraid it will screw up something if i try, have to trace the wire but havent done it yet . it is wired to fuse box acc fuse and one wire to right horn. and another wire heading under battery to some where towards front of eng. but havent traced that one all way yet. anyway, just wondering if anyone seen on of these and what the hell it does if powered ? -
Popped a headlight fuse the other day and changed it out and things seemed ok This morning I was going to go for a ride and again it popped... Ok...looked for a wire that lost insulation and was none... Now I don't even get anything when I turn the key... Where's the main fuse????
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I've added passing lamps to my 06 RSTD and I'm having some trouble. I set up an in-line fuse on the circuit and connected it to the low beams. The whole thing is on a switch. I thought I read to that they use a 7.5 amp fuse. That's what I tied and it blew instantly. So, before I go messing around I thought I'd ask the experts. What size fuse should I be using on these passing lights. They're Yamaha OEM passing lights. Sugguestions would be quite helpful. Thanks all!!
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Please call 206 245 8408. Need to know where the headlight fuse is
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I can't believe how fortunate I am. Before leaving for Cody, the AC started leaking water on the floor but I couldn't find the starting point. I was sure it was condensation water but from where? After we left, I got a call from our son saying that the washing machine had quit rinsing and spinning. I gave him some ideas but said I would deal with it when I got home if they didn't work. Wednesday, in Cody, my headlight/instrument panel lights stopped working. The fuse checked out so.... maybe the starter cut out switch or the CMU? I'll deal with that when I get home, the bike still runs properly. Then Friday, we rode as far as Tremonton, Utah. After a quick bite at McD, Jan's bike wouldn't start. Jump the bike, it runs; disconnect the cables, it dies. Luckily we were traveling with great friends and so we loaded the bike in the trailer and finished the trip home. The resolutions: Jan's bike - started with the battery and found the neg cable lose. Tightened it up and the bike fired right up!! One down, three to go. My bike - double checked the fuse, good. Checked the voltage at the fuse holder, nothing. The fuse holder clamp was broken! Put a jumper wire across the fuse holder....headlight works!! I did the fuse block upgrade, all is well. Two down. AC - Started checking to find the source of the water, touched the condensation plate drain pipe, it moved....shouldn't do that, should it? Pulled the pipe and made sure it was clear (cleared a minor obstruction when I blew through it). A little PVC glue to re-assemble the pipe. Number three fixed!! Washing Machine - Don't know much about washing machines....Call the Man. My wallet is a little lighter now. He replaced the defective cold water inlet valve and now we can have clean clothes. All in all, very lucky! Dave
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Replaced a burned out passing lamp on my RSV and now both lamps are not working. Put a voltmeter to the lamp connections and there is nothing so it must be a fuse (I hope!!!). Now the fun part. It looks like a dealer installation, but all other systems (At least those I can check.) are working. I thought it might be connected through the fuse for the accessory terminal under the seat so I tried to check that fuse. And here is where I have a problem. The owner's manual says to remove the upper and lower screws at the front of the right side cowling and "pull outwards" on the bottom to remove the cowling. However...mine seemed stuck and when I looked closely, it seemed that the screw on the housing at the back of the cowling was also holding the cowling. As well, the quick connect fastener on the lower part of the cowling is at the bottom and doesn't look like the push on type. It looks like the type that you have to push or screw in at the center to get it to release. Have I badly misread the instructions or are things not quite as described in the manual?
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Apparently I am search challenged.. I have searched everywhere I can think of and can't seem to find the answer I just put together my bike trailer and will be ordering the hitch and Hoppy adapter/isolator. I also plan to mount a fuse box. I am thinking there is enough room under the seat of my 2005 RSTD to mount the fuse block but where does everyone tie into the wiring for the Hoppy?? I have seen a couple of threads where people menitoned splicing into the area at the tail light... Sorry for the questions, just get a little paranoid when messing with the electrical system and don't waht to fry anything.. Anything with pics would be great... Thanks.. Robert C.
