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Showing results for tags 'fuel'.
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What is the easiest way to lube the swingarm on my 86? i hope it wont be as difficult as replacing the fuel filter.
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Don't ask how I destroyed my fuel tank cover but I need a replacement. If anyone has one that they would want to sell let me know please. Tim -
Changed my fuel filter yesterday and is it just me or does anyone else think that something as basic as a fuel filter should be a lot easier to do? Why would they make something like that so hard to get at unless it was to make work for mechanics at dealerships? The nut that the roll over valve uses is almost impossible to get your fingers on and I have small hands. Even hard to get a wrench back there. Wouldn't that be a good place for a welded nut instead of a loose one? Anyway, got it done and I'd do it again to save the cost of labor but it sure was a PITA. Has anyone found an easier way?
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Hello... I just purchased a 2006 RSV. Matter of fact, I traded my '99 Victory for it last Friday. Anyways.. I've been hearing people talking about the new fuels with 10% ethanol and all... Some people have suggested that I put a fuel additive in from "time to time". What is this additive and what will it do for me? If this is not going to mess anything up and work wonders for my bike, what brand names do you all suggest? SpEEd Safely CG
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Should you turn the fuel switch to the off position when you're not riding, or is it OK to leave it in the on position? Thanks, Big D
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I just got thru reading an interesting article in one of my boat mags about the use of ethanol added fuel and water. California being one of those states that require ethanol laced fuel brought the article close to home. It might also apply to your state as well. Apparently Ethanol attracts water and octane is actually increased because of it. As long as the gas/ethanol/water stays mixed. The problem occurs when the H2O content rises to over 3% by volume. Then the water will seperate from the fuel/ethanol and settle to the bottom of the tank. Lots of ugly things can happen when it does. Poor running conditions to plain stalling, rusting tanks, loss of octane are a few. It you are storing your scoot over the winter months it might be prudent to keep the tank topped off...reduces air circulation...and use a dry gas product to keep things mixed. It's something I'm going to start doing......
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Hello all. I hope I can make this question understandable. Here goes... The 2006 RSTD does not have a low fuel light. The final segment of the gase guage blinks and the Fuel trip meter comes on and begins to count up.. When I fill up it generally takes about 3.8-4 gallons when this led segment starts flashing, which would imply that I have 1.3-1.5 gallons of gas left in the tank (the RSTD is 5.3 gallon tank). All of the above is with the fuel petcock in the on position. Now here is the question... Could I keep riding until the engine ran out of gas and then turn the fuel petcock to Reserve and still have fuel left? Or is the Reserve setting just there and the guage is letting me know that I am pulling from the reserve? The manual is not very clear on this.I am going around 150-160 miles before the last segment begins to flash which would imply a cruising range of about 180-190 miles with about .5 gallons remaining if I can still switch to the Reserve setting on the tank. Sorry for the long post but not knowing is just nagging me. -
How many different ways can you think of to better your fuel milage? How many of us have tried those "As Seen On TV" solutions? Have any of them REALLY worked for you? What one will fit on our bikes? Etc. Etc. Etc.
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I am just tickled pink today! as I am ALL DONE with my carb dilemma, I can not believe how much smoother she runs now! ALL Factory Settings were so far off I am not sure how the bike ever ran. FLOAT HEIGHTS were .125/.135/.120/.125 (highest setting possible) now ALL set @ .260 (book says .360 could not get them that low) PILOT MIX SCREW TURNS 1-1/4 > 1-3/4 > 2-1/2 > 2-3/4 now ALL set @ 3 turns out New Set of float bowl gaskets (4) $4.50 ea. New Set of Pilot Needle Valves (4) $10.21 ea. New Set of Float Needle Valves (4) $21.95 ea. Total Cost of new parts = $146.64 The O-Rings on the Pilot Screws were shot and the the ends of them read .30 the new ones read .34 This all started (end of last summer) when I could not turn my bike over when I tried to start it, What happened was the 1 and 2 carbs were flooding so much and filling up the cylinders with fuel the bike had a very hard time turning over. So I bought a new Odyssey Battery wanted one anyways! *lol* . I also ran 8 cans of sea foam though the tank even did the soak. (last summer) nothing helped Then I started to notice fuel spitting out of the left muffler after it did finely start. Then after the winter (a month ago) fuel starts pouring out of the overflow vent. I am so terrified of taking carburetors apart and never thought I could do this job especially looking at them all tucked under there on the RSV. So I did tackled the job (very easy) and messing with the carbs are not real bad (thanks to members on this forum) Just be careful with the springs and o-rings and washers flying out and when cleaning make sure there ALL out. (don't wanna talk about that part) I also could not believe how much better the carbs reacted to adjusting to the Carbtune. This is like a whole new world! The bike starts so easy now and runs so perfect I have never felt it run so smooth! And one other thing is that (MY WHINE) has even improved. Real nice power response now! Did I say I was Happy? this bike is a 2000 RSV with 7,948 miles on it. bought the bike 2 years ago with 4,200 on it and it never ran like it does today. AGAIN , THANKS SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP! Jeff
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I'm not really sure where to post this, so moderators, move it it ya need to. :-) My Father-In-law has a 1974 Yamaha RD200 Electric that he left garaged for 15 years. he parked it when the tires went flat and never bothered with it again. I snagged it out of his shed a few years back and with the help of a friend of mine we've got it back in running order.. the only problem we are faced with now is the gas tank. He left gas in it for those 15 years.. I'm sure you can all imagine what we were met with when we opened it up. We've run several of those tank cleaning kits through it (you know, the three bottles of goop) and it's still pretty bad off... It's at least usable now, but here's the issue. On each side of the saddle there's a small 90 degree pipe that comes down that is supposed to be connected with fuel line so that fuel from the side away from the petcock can be used... at some point both pipes have become filled with gunk. I"m not sure if it's from the tank cleaning stuff we used or if it's just from having sat for so long with fuel in it, but they're clogged pretty good. We've tried everything we can think of from drill bits to get as much as we can to pipe cleaners to try and clear around the bend, but we can't get it to punch through on either side. so I've decided to look for a new tank. SO, any of ya'll know where i can get a new tank for a '74 RD200? I've been watching e-bay but I can't seem to find a tank. I tried a few cycle salvage yards but haven't been able to find one there either, at least not one that's in serviceable condition. Thanks in advance guys!
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Over the winter have been starting my 1st gen once a week battery is on charger. Cranks fine, up on center stand gets spark to all cylinders it just will not start bike is in Neutral, full of fuel with Stabil fuel is filter is a few months old. I did manage to break my throttle cable though. Have sprayed starting fluid in still wont fire. If starting fluid cant get it to fire I dont know what will.Im confused since I have spark. Any ideas?
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Say you were running low of fuel so you switch to reserve. You then top off with gas but you forget to switch back to the main tank. Will you have any gas left in the tank if you run out of gas?
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Hi Folks, as i have read, there are some Guys, which might be interested in passing the damned Carb-Stuff out and go for a Fuel Injection System. As the Carbs and Strakes are not that big different on a Venture, it will mechanically fit and work properly on all the Ventures you use. Just the Mapping should be different, because of the different Valve-Sizes and other Camshafts. I know this Guy, which has an Injection-System developed and fitted to several Vmaxxes, from 1200 cc Stock-Engine up to his 1670 cc Monstermax. Works also on a 1200cc Engine with a Blower... As i heard these Days, they now have also a done Deal with a Distributor in the States .... Here's the Link to the EFI in the States http://wildbros.com/EFI.html If have worked on that System at a Friends Max, was a quite impressive Moment. I will upgrade my Max next Winter. As i'm not only seeking for the Gain of Power, i will not use the advertised Fuel Computer, instead i will go for the Full Motor Management, which comes which Lambda-Control and Regulation of the Igniton-System. This System runs already on a Development-Bike with really great Performance. If you are a "Save the Planet" Type, you also can mount some Catalytic Converters and run the Bike in perfect EPA-Conditions. It's just for your Information, i'm not related in any Ways to the People who are doing that Business.
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My 05 RSTD has been running rough the last two times I used it for the first few miles and yesterday when I started it one of the carb. must have a stuck float. It was running fuel out of the blow by hose. Has anyone else had problems with this or the new fuel with alcohol? Thanks Bill
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i had a race car driver tell me, that the higher the octane in fuel, the more compression it takes to vaporize. and vise versa, the lower the octane level,the sooner it will vaporize and ignite. in a nutshell, what he said is "lower octane fuel fires before it is supposed to,giving you less than optimum power.". anyone have any knowlege about this subject? oh . this guy also said that avgas,works better in "older" motorcycles, than super unleaded fuel, because it is a higher octane,(110 to 120 octane) just jt
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not v r specific,but motorcycles in general. does the oem fuel filter "calibrate" or restrict" the amount of fuel that is delivered to the carbs? if you replace the oem filter, with a larger bore "inline" filter,would that in turn reduce your gas mileage and power? this is about a kz1000. two like bikes, one has twice the power of the other,and twice the fuel effeciency. just wondering if the fuel filter might be the reason. just jt
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What are you folks doing for winterizing? Are you filling up the fuel tank and putting in a product like Stabil or are you draining the carbs and filling the fuel tank and putting in Stabil. Or something else?
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I have an 89 Royale. After a poker run last Sunday I started leaking fuel from in front of the rear wheel. I pulled the side covers and found 4 hoses that run along and to the back of the tank. It seems one of them is leaking. It only leaks when the bike is running. RPM's are down and bike seems to be maybe flooding out. Could this be a stuck float and the line an overflow or vent line for the carb.? I didn't have much time to dig further. Thought I should consult someone before I began tearing into things. I tend to create more work for myself unless I check first. Any advise and help is appreciated. Thanks, firefly:fireman:
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After some help from my brother, a Honda rider (oh well, some day he'll convert) I was able to come up with a new fuel pump. It is made by masters and is item #e8055 . It is available at Advance Auto for $62.00 including tax. It does take some modification to the bracket that it comes with and a little fudging but it is in and seems to work great so far. It looks exactly like the original but it is about 1/4 inch bigger in diamater. I'll try to attach a pic. and see what happens. It puts out 3psi which from what I can gather is what the original puts out. Feel free to ask any questions that you may have and I will try to help. Update by Freebird. The linked information for this was outdated and no longer worked. The only fuel pump I find with this part number is Airtex. I hope it's the same one. If not, let me know and I'll remove this information. http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8055-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B002XK172K
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