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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
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Hello All, I got the tags for my '87 that I have spent about a year off and on redoing. I never rode it, bought it as a project. I think I have the carbs pretty good, but there is one thing that I noticed, and don't know if this is a characteristic of the Venture or if I need so further adjustment. When I was riding, when I would pull the clutch and wind off to shift, the RPM's would hang up hi for a little while and not drop right down to shift. Is the throttle response slow on wind off, or do I need to look at something? Thanks D -
I want to change my own clutch
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I'm moderately mechanically inclined. My 06 RSTD has almost 30,000 miles and appears to be in need of a new clutch. I'm thinking of doing it myself. I'm also thinking of upgrading to the Barnett clutch. Is this a DIY job or should I leave it to the kid at the dealer to do? Will the Barnett clutch basket make the "whine" worse or better? Do I need special tools? Thanks for any help. -
Looks pretty good and if that is the true mileage it ould be a heck of a deal. Clutch problem could be the master cyl or slave cyl. Only a short time left... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Venture-1984-Yamaha-Venture-NO-RESERVE-03-136_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6718QQihZ013QQitemZ230238626987QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
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So now that the power plant is back in after the second gear issue, I start up the scoot to hear it run and check out that the tranny is humming nicely. Replaced clutch basket with one that is not broke, used the same fricton plates that were in there from last year, then brand new, and now I discover that the clutch will not release. Checked for air in the clutch lines, again and again and for sure there is nothing but fluid there, handle feels good with very little play. Took apart the whole clutch assembly again and again, checked and re-checked, all seems good. Started 'er up and let it get warm and tried again, no luck, so now I'm typing my way to a solution, hopefully. Any bright ideas? No extra parts in the coffee can yet at this point. -
Well, the checks I been waiting on finally cleared the bank. SPent 400 dollars with Flatout today, Chris called me at noon and told me that all parts are available in the warehouses, only one part needs to come from Japan. (I'll tell you about that later. Something to do with not wanting to take 10 minutes and make the clutch holding tool!!!). All parts should be in by the end of the week. Saved 25 bucks by having him hold the parts for pick-up since I only live 10 miles from there. These parts are just the internals, like all o-rings, gaskets, clutch springs, 2nd gear repair (gonna undercut my gears), water pump rebuild,etc.. Will post complete list if anybody wants to see it. Next week I'll order my exterior stuff, going to replace all the hoses, water route orings, thermostat, etc. Doing this once, and then be done with it! Flatouts website makes it easy to order, can print out the microfiche listings, that way you have a record of what you've got when it comes time to figure out what all those bags have in them!!! Oh well ,back to the grind! Dan
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i finally got the flywheel off, no problems, after you locate the correct bolts! now , is where it gets "different". the pins and rollers, all seem to be in excellent shape. the 3 allen bolts , that hold the clutch to the back of the fly wheel, are shot! all three, were "finger tight".and had been rubbing the internal portion of the flywheel. they were all "dimpled ", on the thread end, to secure them in place, but only ONE, was not ruined.i am going to attempt to attach pics, and then , i ask EVERYONE"S opinion. is this a "fairly common", problem, or am i just "special". seems that everyone else has these "easy fix",problems, EXCEPT ME!!! oh, in the third pic, you can see that the "clutch weight/plate, is cleanly broken! -
I am really tired of bleeding my clutch and besides I don't think this is my problem anymore. Ever since the Barnett clutch, I have a really hard time finding neutral. If in first, I seem to pass through neutral and end up in second. If in second, I seem to always go right past neutral straight into first. The lever seems really difficult to move as well. This is the case when the motor/tranny is hot. If cold works like new. I have bled the clutch fluid several times and am confident there is no air nor old fluid left. There are no leaks at all, everything is dry. What else could be wrong? Could it be the Amsoil synthetic? Need some advise. -
I just bought a 84 venture and, being young and stupid, had to take it out to *try* it out the next day (its still around freezing up here in Wisconsin). So after I got used to such a big bike, I was hammering up through the gears and, in fourth gear, the engine sped up faster than the bike. The clutch was slipping. It did this again, going up a hill shifting into second gear. I dont think I missed releasing the clutch before hitting the gas, I have driven a lot of smaller motorcycles in the past... Is my clutch going? If not, have I done so much damage to it that it will go out soon??? I know this isnt good, but how worried should I be? Also, the guy who sold me the venture insisted that everyone takes them all the way to the red line, and some beyond, no problem. Is this true???
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Odd starter clutch failure
mbrood posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Well, I tore into the starter clutch. It would "bang and grind" every once in a while and since it's a good time of year, I figured what the heck. Once I got it off, I looked down at the pillow, laid there to 'catch" the flying rotor (thanks guys.. that's a marvelous money saving trick!) and I saw three dowels, two spings and two spring cups... TWO??? The bronze (or???) housing that the springs and dowels fit into had ONE spring cup still in it... slightly recessed... so IT was NOT doing it's job. So I tried to tease it out by gently pushing it in (VERY slight movement)... after an hour I was able to get it flush with the edge. After another hour I was able to get it to wiggle out about 1/3rd. I finally got it out and saw that the sides looked ok... (IT'S on the left). http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/starter/starter%20clutch2.jpg So I blew out the recessed hole it sat in with WD40 and tried slipping in one of the other spring and cups and it slid in and bounced up and down just fine. I started really looking at the three spring cups. ONE had the open end just pristine but TWO had edge damage and the one that had hung up actually had a nick (or future chip?) that was hanging out... the outer diameter of the three is .248 and the open end at the nick spot was .252! Must have been just enough to snag and disable a third of the clutch! (The "offending" cup is still on the right.) http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/starter/starter%20clutch3.jpg The parts fiche shows an odd part in the bottom of that recess, no part number though. SOMETHING is causing the edge to chip and this just is NOT a good thing. Either the spring cup has too much slop in the hole (sure doesn't feel like it or that .004 "nick" would still fit?)) or the cups are bottoming into something and chipping. Nonetheless, it's enough that it caused the cup to seize. The idle gear #2, that has the race attached that the dowels drive against, had a distinctive "dance mark" pattern where the dowels had driven in so that's an easy solution to repair... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/starter/starter%20clutch1.jpg I figure, once the bike starts, centrifugal force throws the dowels back against the springs and the cups are driven deep into the hole and maybe THAT is what leads to the chipping...? Any ideas? The bike only has about 46,000 miles. Here's a breakdown of needed parts from two web sites and my local Yamaha shop... and the shop wonders why I won't buy from them??? Flatout Zanotti North County Yamaha Bolt (3 needed) 91316-08014-00 .99 .80 2.48 Gear Idler #2 26H-15517-00-00 29.86 28.64 46.67 Whole Starter Clutch 11H-15580-00-00 74.54 73.68 109.24 Dowle Pin (3) 93615-12088-00 1.64 1.57 2.55 Spring Cap (3) 341-15583-05-00 4.76 4.57 7.44 Spring (3) 90501-04623-00 1.59 1.52 2.46 Left engine case gasket 3JP-15451-00-00 5.10 4.89 7.97 Rear case gasket 3JP-15461-00-00 1.80 1.73 2.97 -
First off, a BIG Thank You to bongobobny for the parts I needed!! Next - dumb question time. How do you get the switch out of the clutch lever mount??? Mine is broken off, with a piece still in the mount. I wondered why the cruise wasn't working! I must be having a Senior Moment Attack, I can't get the @$&^*# piece out!! What holds the switch in place??
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I read somewhere here that diesel oil is OK to use in these engines. Is that 15W40? And is it true? I have a '99 Tour Deluxe and it's oil change time. I thought maybe 15-40 would get rid of the clutch whine seeing as it's thicker oil. If not, I plan to use synthetic. Bike has 31,000 miles on it. Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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I posted before about a noise in my 87 venture, 38,000 miles, but would like to get a little more information if possible. I am new with the v4's, have only owned mine for about 3500 miles. It has a squeak or a chirp that is quite noticable at a idle but goes away or turns to a whine as soon as I bring the rpm's up to over 1000. The noise seems to be there with the clutch in or out, but does seem to change a little. I need to repair the clutch as it started to slip when not fully warmed up. Using a stethascope it sounds like the sound is coming form the back of the engine, loudest on the back valve cover or in the clutch area. I have all the body panels, bags, and the trunk off and have repaired all cracks in them so this would be the time to pull the engine if needed. Wonder if it could be the timing chain or a bad chain adjuster, and how would I check that? Also what is the chirp that is talked about? If needed I could try to get a sound track of the noise and post it. All help is appreciated!!!
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Well, I'm just about to put my first new set of tires on the RSV (@ 12k miles) and was wondering if I should tell the new dealership I'm going to to re-grease the clutch hub pins? I had it done it the first time at around 4k miles. I'm not going back to the dealer that performed the process the first time because thier customer service is just pathetic. This will be the third dealership I've taken the bike to (you might recall from some of my other posts that the last guys I took my bike to managed to drop the bike and had to replace the fairing, left lower, and a saddlebag guard.). I guess I'm just dreading having to explain to the dealer techs about the this problem with the clutch hub pins. _________________
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Starter was intermittenly making loud clanking and banging noise. I had months ago had the starter out and cleaned it out, and it was spinning as it was supposed to. Thanks to this and other forums : the answer was the clutch which turns the crankshaft. The parts were ordered from my local dealer,new clutch assy, and gaskets to do the job. Thanks again to the tech section the job went very well. My dealer San AntonioYamaha even gave me a discount on the parts because I told him I was a member of both thr VENTURERS: and THE VENTUR RIDERS forums. Here in San Antonio we are fortunate to have 2 great dealers one in town the other in Kerrville. Destinitation Cycle . I think I saved 5 hrs labor charges and the parts at a discount, Im a happy camper. Any one in the area, SOUTH TEXAS that needs help, send me a PM. I feel grateful to be part of this group. Bill P:bighug:
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with my busy life now days i just got around to doing my clutch, now im having problems bleeding the clutch whats the fail safe way to do that
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Okay, followed the instructions found here on the web site that Freebird put for the Barnett Clutch. Now here is the issue, can't squeeze the clutch lever at all. Also, bike was in gear before removing the clutch plates, but now I can roll the bike and the green light for neutral is not on. The only way I can squeeze the clutch lever is have Mechanic put some pressure on the "plunger" that sits in the bearing. So anyone have any ideas as to what I need to do? :confused24: -
Yes I rode a 2 gen to the shop for one of our members so that the dealer can do the clutch basket and other 30k maint. So the question is did it freeze over in Hotlanta yet Todd? Jeff
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My clutch is barely engaging when pulled in completely. Looking in my manual it only tells me to have it looked at by a dealer. It's Saturday, a beautiful day in south Louisiana and I'd like to ride. It's a '03 Midnight Venture. The clutch is hydraulic. Manual suggest that it may need to be bled. Any help on how to go about this? Desperate, Potohead
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Is your Venture vying to look like an old Harley? Last year I developed a leak that I thought was the mid-cover gasket so when I repaired the stator that started to dye and the center bearing in the transmission, I replaced all the gaskets. Now that should have been that, but the leak is still there spotting the floor like a bad puppy. I have let the trike set for a long time (2 months) and noted that the leak was getting worse, so I took a look at the underside of the motor and found the culprit. It was the seal on the shift shaft at the rear of the motor and this was first time that I have had this seal leek. The fix Having a trike to work on will make this easier because I can put the trike on auto ramps that will make the oil go forward in the engine and not have much come out when the Mid-gear & clutch cover are removed. It also gives me an extra 6.5 inches of space under the bike that will make this job a lot easier. If you have a lift it would make this job easier also. 1) Remove seat, tank top, side covers. 2) Note the position of the clamp at the end of the shaft, mark the shaft so you can put it back in the same position. My shaft was marked. Remove the 10MM bolt & Spread the clamp with a blade screwdriver and remove the clamp with the screwdriver and leave it attached to the screwdriver. (See driver.jpg) 3) Place oil collectors under the case covers cuse it’s gonna leak. Now remove the foot pegs, clutch cover & mid-gear cover. 4) Remove the clutch spring (s) & pressure plate. Use a screwdriver to remove the clutch plates keeping them in order so they can be put back in the same position (yes it is important!). (see Rplates.jpg) You do not have to remove the clutch plate held in place with the wire. 5A) Bend the locking tab away from the nut & while holding the clutch boss with Yamaha or home made tool, use a 30MM socket and remove the nut, plunger and ball bearing. (See tool1.jpg) If you have an impact wrench go to 5B 5B) You can use an impact wrench to remove the nut, but you will need the tool to torque the nut when you reinstall the boss. 6) Remove the clutch boss, thrust washer and clutch basket. 7) Lift the claw on the shift mechanism and pull it out about 2” this will clear the seal. (See claw.jpg) 8) I had to make a tool to remove the old seal because I have did not have anything that would do the job. (see tool2.jpg) 9) Be sure to oil the new seal then Install the new seal by taping into place. I did this by using a ¾”socket with wheel bearing grease on the end & 6” extension inserted in the socket backwards. (See tool3.jpg) Now use the female end of the extension to seat the seal into place. 10) Now reinstall the shift shaft by lifting the claw into place on the shift barrel. 11) Install the basket, washer and boss on the shaft and tighten the nut to 50 FT LB holding the boss in place with the tool. Lock the nut in place with the locking tab. 11A If you don’t have a tool to hold the boss & because this shaft is part of the transmission, if you re-attach the bracket to the shift shaft and put the motor in 2ed or 3ed. Then it should be possible to hold the foot brake down and torque to 50 FT LB. I have not tried this but I can’t see why it would not work. 12) Install the clutch plates the way you found them. (See Iplates.jpg) 13) Now reinstall the clutch Ball bearing, plunger, presser and spring(s) torque bolts to 5.8 FT LB. plate (remember to align the dots on the presser plate & basket “See dots.jpg”) 14) Use the screwdriver to put the clamp back on the shaft & a pair of Forceps to put the bolt back in the clamp, tighten clamp with 10MM socket. 15) Put the case covers back on and torque the bolts to 7.2 FT LB 16) Replace foot pegs or the floorboards. 17 Replace any lost oil. This repair is not particularly difficult, but the space is very small to work in. I did have a problem in removing the old seal and had to make a tool. Fred
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Is your Venture vying to look like an old Harley? Last year I developed a leak that I thought was the mid-cover gasket so when I repaired the stator that started to dye and the center bearing in the transmission, I replaced all the gaskets. Now that should have been that, but the leak is still there spotting the floor like a bad puppy. I have let the trike set for a long time (2 months) and noted that the leak was getting worse, so I took a look at the underside of the motor and found the culprit. It was the seal on the shift shaft at the rear of the motor and this was first time that I have had this seal leek. The fix Having a trike to work on will make this easier because I can put the trike on auto ramps that will make the oil go forward in the engine and not have much come out when the Mid-gear & clutch cover are removed. It also gives me an extra 6.5 inches of space under the bike that will make this job a lot easier. If you have a lift it would make this job easier also. 1) Remove seat, tank top, side covers. 2) Note the position of the clamp at the end of the shaft, mark the shaft so you can put it back in the same position. My shaft was marked. Remove the 10MM bolt & Spread the clamp with a blade screwdriver and remove the clamp with the screwdriver and leave it attached to the screwdriver. (See driver.jpg) 3) Place oil collectors under the case covers cuse it’s gonna leak. Now remove the foot pegs, clutch cover & mid-gear cover. 4) Remove the clutch spring (s) & pressure plate. Use a screwdriver to remove the clutch plates keeping them in order so they can be put back in the same position (yes it is important!). (see Rplates.jpg) You do not have to remove the clutch plate held in place with the wire. 5A) Bend the locking tab away from the nut & while holding the clutch boss with Yamaha or home made tool, use a 30MM socket and remove the nut, plunger and ball bearing. (See tool1.jpg) If you have an impact wrench go to 5B 5B) You can use an impact wrench to remove the nut, but you will need the tool to torque the nut when you reinstall the boss. 6) Remove the clutch boss, thrust washer and clutch basket. 7) Lift the claw on the shift mechanism and pull it out about 2” this will clear the seal. (See claw.jpg) 8) I had to make a tool to remove the old seal because I have did not have anything that would do the job. (see tool2.jpg) 9) Be sure to oil the new seal then Install the new seal by taping into place. I did this by using a ¾”socket with wheel bearing grease on the end & 6” extension inserted in the socket backwards. (See tool3.jpg) Now use the female end of the extension to seat the seal into place. 10) Now reinstall the shift shaft by lifting the claw into place on the shift barrel. 11) Install the basket, washer and boss on the shaft and tighten the nut to 50 FT LB holding the boss in place with the tool. Lock the nut in place with the locking tab. 11A If you don’t have a tool to hold the boss & because this shaft is part of the transmission, if you re-attach the bracket to the shift shaft and put the motor in 2ed or 3ed. Then it should be possible to hold the foot brake down and torque to 50 FT LB. I have not tried this but I can’t see why it would not work. 12) Install the clutch plates the way you found them. (See Iplates.jpg) 13) Now reinstall the clutch Ball bearing, plunger, presser and spring(s) torque bolts to 5.8 FT LB. plate (remember to align the dots on the presser plate & basket “See dots.jpg”) 14) Use the screwdriver to put the clamp back on the shaft & a pair of Forceps to put the bolt back in the clamp, tighten clamp with 10MM socket. 15) Put the case covers back on and torque the bolts to 7.2 FT LB 16) Replace foot pegs or the floorboards. 17 Replace any lost oil. [ATTACH]13770[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13771[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13772[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13773[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13774[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13775[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13776[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13777[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]13778[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13779[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13780[/ATTACH] This repair is not particularly difficult, but the space is very small to work in. I did have a problem in removing the old seal and had to make a tool. Fred
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What kind of mileage does our clutch generally have in it, and what kind of symptoms happen when it's worn out? Does it just quit hooking up and slips all the time? My bike has close to 45,000 miles on it now, and I'm doubting that the clutch has ever been touched, seeing as how I got it with less than 15,000. I've heard of some that were worn out by the mid 30s. I'm not having any problems with it yet. I just don't know what to expect or what happens. I've never worn a clutch out in any vehicle.
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Clutch Whine-Sand in a mousehole!!
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hi All: I wish to tell you the whole story and then I am going to shut up, this is my last post on the clutch whine on the Venture. I have done all that is humanly possible, and I really do think I have the answer. I know what is causing this and it is not the clutch. However to solve it would be very expensive, and without information on gear tolerance, it may very well not be a solution we as laymen can do, with normal tools and knowledge. First for my dealer(what a joke they are!!) They are the typical dealer, nice boy salt will melt in their mouth when selling, want service, well, er........we will get back with you. Part of this is my own fault, I knew I wanted a Venture, I read all about it for six months. Thing is it was in motorcycle books, and on internet trial postings. I knew about the windshield, but there was not a word about this clutch whine business on any of them, or most likely I would not have purchased one. I like I say am partly to blame, as I purchased the bike, sight unseen, brand new from a dealer in South Carolina. We went up and my wife dropped me off and I took it home. I almost turned it around the first day half way home, then my common sense took over.......twas too late.........no faith in any dealer, always justified.....so on home we went, screaming the whole way!! Two days after bringing it home I called the dealer, the original person whom I dealt with was not there, left a message for him to call me, he never did. Next day I wrote them an email, explaining this situation and asking for advice and help, they never replied. Fellows there will not be a third time, I really do not like dealers at all and this just put the final nail in the coffin. Hey just yesterday we got the propaganda letter from the dealer, you know the one that says , Hey Kit Thanks for your purchase, we are sure you will enjoy many years with your new motorcycle!! They had my name wrong, and the letter was not signed. They will never turn a bolt on my bike, ever , this has been my dealership experience with most local dealers. I am told there is a good one in Sumter.......personally I am not going to go find out!! Before I finish I wish to say somewhere along the line , I have fell in love with this awesome machine. It is a great one, has a lot of good points, in fact many more than the bad, so I will keep it, and if anyone wants to listen to me, I will help them fix it........if not , I will leave them on their own and hope for better luck in five , years. Yes I will buy another one........I do like the bike. I have changed oil in this thing so much I may wear out the drain plug!! I am now running 20w50 with 10percent Lucas oil additive. This does really , really help, at high end of gearing, and at high speed. There is no noise at interstate speeds. We have also changed the clutch assembly and the clutch basket. We looked at all this stuff real close, one of us is plumber, the other is a mechanic, and both are full of sh......! But we could not see what we were going to accomplish. So we did run the engine without the assembly installed and yep.......the harmonics of the gear box travels through the gears to the main drive shaft and seems to resonate to the aluminum basket housing, hit the cover and magnify. Somehow I do not know exactly how the new assembly does move the sound to a lower rpm level. Could be the weight of the assembly, that is something we did not think to check on. The whine sound folks is not the clutch, it is a harmonic resonance from the gears, traveling out to the clutch cover and being magnified. If you want to study this on your own, look up textile machinery, hearing loss and some other things. Cut gears, high performance cars, gear mesh etc. I am also aware that to a small extent, the sound is held in by this high windshield and fairing which slightly compounds the situation also. So running non-warranty oil and a different clutch assembly, in 4th gear at 60 mph the sound is gone now.......70 mph in fifth gear, want to putter along at 55 in fifth.........will not take long to get annoying. So I have just ordered a set of Road House Pipes. I will mask the whine!! No I will not use earplugs, I want to hear the wheels sliding as the car behind me tries to run over me, so I can drop the clutch and get hit by the car coming across the intersection-maybe it will be clear!!. The only way I can see to fix the whine is to build a new transmission, close the gear tolerance and polish them up, blueprint it if you will. Nope not going to go to all that trouble. I kinda like loud pipes anyway. Now I will shut up.........this is my final solution. Kit -
Does anyone here use the Barnett Clutch in their RSV ? Does the whole clutch basket and all the clutches come with it ? Where and how much might I expect to pay for it ?
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I just put new clutch parts in my MM RSV. Got it all back together and the leaver is hard, no movement. I pulled the clutch back out to check the assembly and every things OK. I looked at the ball and short rod and they look fine try the leaver no movement. I loosened the bleeder and pulled the leaver got fluid, no air and the leaver moved to bleed but still no better with bleeder closed. I think the long rod is stuck. Any suggestions on how to get the rod out to check it? Do I have to pull the cylinder from the other side or is the a trick to getting it out? Thanks Rod
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Took my bike to dealer today about the clutch whine and was told Yamaha does not replace clutch baskets anymore. But will install BUBs slipons instead. What do youall think of this? tew47
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