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Showing results for tags 'battery'.
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I have been noticing that when I pull my brake on my lights dim a little. Even when my turn signal is on I see a little flicker in the dash lights. Please tell me my battery is going. Still the orignal from 04.
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I know some of you have this. Interested, but leary. 3 hours of battery power just doesn't make sense to me. What do you do about the short battery life? Do you carry spares? Is there a way to hard wire it to the bike? Thanks in advance.
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I just installed a set of 4 ga battery cables. I cut the short red cable to leave the battery connector for the plug in and on the neg side did the same. Hope that makes sense. I also wired in a cigarette lighter for a cell charger, with a 10a fuse. Now I hear the rpm in my headset. Any thoughts? Steve
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Hey Folks, I need a little help on a 1999 RSV. I purchased it on Ebay from a dealer in FL and had it shipped to my son-in-laws in Wilton, CT. We're flying to CT next week to ride. Here's the glitch...when the bike was dleivered, Mark inadvertently left the ignition on accessory and ran the battery down. I told him he had to remove the seat in order to gain access to the battery to charge it. The bike has an aftermarket Saddleman Road Sofa seat. Below is what he emailed me whe he tried to get the seat off. " I have been unable to get the seat off of your bike to date. There is a bolt in the front of the seat with a nut which needs to come off but the bolt is spinning freely. The top of the bolt seems to be within the seat with no means of getting to it. I am also barely able to get to the nut so there is no way to secure the bolt while turning the nut. I will keep trying but I am beginning to lose hope. I worked on it for about two hours so far this morning." Now, can the battery be charged from the AuxiliaryDC Jack? If so, where do I tell him to look for it and how would he goa about using it to charge the battery? I haven't even seen the bike yet, so I'm just going from what I can find on the net. Thanks for any help. Jeff
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:confused24:When got my 84 the last owner replace dhte battery with a sealed one and romoved the sensor. this week when my battery seemed to be going out i check it with my charger and got an error saying it had a bad cell. My brother had a new battery he bought but ended up replacing witha gell one along with a hight output genny on his goldwing, so whewn i took my battery out i found the sensor wire hidded and it still has a plug on it. I though maybe i could just replace the sensor. are they still available? or would i need to find one used? Ive never seen one on E Bay
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Recently, my 84VR has developed problems charging the battery. I put a new battery in last year and have never had problems until now. While running down the road, the voltmeter always pegged out just above the 12 volt mark, where that slash mark is. Now the voltmeter barely reads to the 12 volt mark and if I don't put a charger on the battery, it gets to the point where it won't turn over at all. If I let it rest up a bit, the battery gets a little life back and it soon turns over but it is definitely not charging properly. Where should I start looking? Thanks in advance!
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The wife heard on the radio the other day from the "car guys" WJR here in Michigan. That putting a battery tender on your battery all winter long will take away or ruin your battery. If this is the case why do they make battery tenders? Besides to make money!
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hi all, hope someone can help. i have a 89vr 1300. The stator went out on me i bought a new one. took housing off unplugged wires , replaced stator, replaced battery. went to start the bike and i got nothing. when turning the key on lights come on when hitting the start button lights go out. thats all it will do. Anybody got any idea's what could have happened? Yes i plugged the wires back in, yes i replaced the oil, yes new battery has a full charge.yes kill switch is in on postion, bike in neutral.
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Coming home from work yesterday my radio cutoff and then came back on, it did this 4 or 5 times till it cutoff completely. When I parked the lights where very dim and the radio was still off. I cut it off and tried to crank it, the battery was dead. I had the battery checked out and it was ok. Last week I road in a lot of rain, could there be something shorting out?
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While on a ride Saturday evening, my light started blinking indicating my battery. When I got home, sure enough, several cells in the battery were low. I picked up some distilled water and filed it back up. The point I want to make is the next time you are tinkering with your bike, pull the cover off and look to see how full the battery is. And if is low, make sure you fill it with distilled water. You may have cells that are low and the sensor may not be picking it up because that particular cell is not that low. This will ruin a good battery if left too long low on water. RandyA
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Many times we over look the simple and expect the worst TCI failure. Most ignition failure causes are connection issues and not the TCI. Here are the steps I use to trouble shoot an ignition problem on a first gen with suspected TCI problem. 1. Remove battery and battery compartment. 2. Unplug both connectors from TCI box 3. With a digital ohm meter connect the black neg lead to the black battery cable. Do not connect to frame or chassis for a ground. Now measure with the red lead of ohm meter to a frame bolt or engine bolt. You should have O ohms or slightly higher.The ground connection to chassis is good.Now we are ready to measure TCI connectors. 4. On the smaller 6 pin connector measure the black wire. It should read 0 ohms or slightly higher. This is the gnd output from TCI to the pickup coil center taps. It may be easier to insert red test probe into the back of the connector plug to take these readings. NOTE: The ground comes from the TCI. You won't have a ground connection on the stator side with connector unplugged. The main ground to the TCI comes in on the output connector from the frame and loops through the TCI to the pickup coil input connector then through the pickup coil connector along lower frame next to stator. 5. Now measure the Orange,Gray,White/Red,and White/Green wires one at a time. These are pickup coil inputs to TCI.They should read 115 -125 ohms normal. If you don't have this or loss of one or more the most common cause is connector failure. (see white connector plug along frame above stator and clean contacts). 6. The Black/White wire is the Emergency Inhibit line. If it measure 0 ohms or has a low resistance the bike willl not start. Normally this measurement is done with the battery hooked up via jumper cables and ign switch on. Various sources through energized relays can inhibit this line. Such as emergency killl switch,side stand relay,tilt switch.clutch switch,etc. 7. With battery unhooked lets move to the 8 pin plug. measure the black wire should be 0 ohms system ground. 8. With the battery unhooked move the black lead of ohm meter to the Red + battery cable and turn on ignition switch. We are now going to measure the resistance back through each Primary Ignition coil to the battery positive lead. 9. Measure the Orange,Gray,Yellow, and White wires. Each should read 2.5 to 3 ohms ref the red battery lead.These are the induction output wires that fire the energized ignition coils, The Red/White wire is 13.8 volt supply line and should read 0 ohms.Thats it for the dc continuity test of connections to TCI. The Black/Yellow,Black/Red wires are from the pressure switch and should only be measured with engine running. The pressure sensor converts pressure into voltage which varys the timing advance with changes of pressure caused by rpm increase. These timing changes can be viewed with a Oscilloscope measuring the pickup coil input pulse and the corresponding output pulse for each cylinder.This is not something you need to worry about now. If all is well to this point and the obvious has been checked including Spark plugs and plug wires it's time to check the TCI. Before removing it (a patience trying task) I would plug in a spare unit. Every first gen owner should have a working spare or know where you can borrow one. If the TCI is defective remove from bike, open the case by removing the 4 phillips screws exposing the soldered side of circuit board. place in oven at 100 degrees for 30 minutes to remove any moisture in module. You can remove any corrosion from solder side of circuit board with gentle strokes of an old tooth brush and an electronic contact cleaning spray. If you have soldering ability and a low wattage iron resolder all connections below the heatsink nuts on the circuit board. These are the contacts leading to the out side connectors. The heatsink nuts hold the switching transistors that fire the ignition coils. Resolder the 3 terminals of each transistor. with a magnifying glass carefully inspect the remaining solder connections on the board. Anything that has a dull color or hairline crack should be resoldered. You have now fixed probably 95 % of TCI failures. Actual componet failures are rare and can only be accomplished by electronic techinicians with specialized desoldering stations and a schematic of the TCI. Not to mention parts availability for a 20 year old technology. Watch used TCI's can be bought on Ebay ocassionally for $50 bucks. 10. The best way to check a TCI is on the bike but I have plans for bench testing later.
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Well i am almost set the bike is starting from a battery i had. Now i need to order one for it as well as front brake pads. Any recommendations on what battery and what type of pads.Thanx
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Installing a Dyna 3000 module in a Royal Star Venture Thanks to Scott (Tartan Terror) for this great article. Remove seat form bike. After you do this you will need to remove the battery. Remove the cables first then remove the strap hold down. Be careful not to touch terminals together or they may spark. Also be careful to make note of where any accessory wires you have installed are routed. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image002.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image004.jpg Remove the battery tray next. You will need to remove the two 12 mm bolts in front of the tray. Remove the positive and negative wires from the clips that hold them and gently lift the tray out of the way. For those of you that have other items behind the tray be careful not to pull that out and lift the tray out. With the tray out of the way you will see the module standing vertical held by two nuts against the front wall of the battery compartment. Loosen the wires so you can lift the module up and out. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image006.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image008.jpg Next get your new module ready to install. The Dyna 3000 module has many settings so read the directions carefully and select the setup that suits how you intend to use it. I set mine to setting 3 and set the Rev limiter to 7250. This is done by setting the small white switches to the appropriate on and off pattern. Setting the switches will change the advance of the ignition and raise the rev limiter to a higher level. Stock is 6000 rpm but this is far below the Red Line. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image010.jpg After Setting the switches remove the old module by removing the three connectors and plugging them into the appropriate sockets. You can’t mix them up as they will only go one way. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image012.jpg Bolt the new module in the location that the old one came out of and put the battery tray back in. Once again remember to put your cables and wires back the way they came out and then install the Battery. Place the seat back on and you are ready to go. One thing I noticed is that after the new module was in I needed to adjust the idle as now it seemed to rev higher. If you need to this the knob is on the right side of the bike near the back carburetor under the tank. Now all you have to do is Ride it like you stole it.
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Illusive electrical problem-99 Royal Star Venture
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I go by Moose-man. I have had my '99 since early 2001 and love it! I need advice from any Venture "wrench type" about a specific problem that I can't seem to solve. For 3 weeks now my nearly new battery runs down when I'm ridin' to about 3-4 volts and the bike quits. The stator, regulator and battery connections are all good. No idea where to go from here. -
Now I know the Odyssey is a gel cell battery and it's a good one ..but I have a friend who runs a business that sells batteries ..generators ..and electrical stuff ....I was going to order a Odyssey from him in the spring but he mentioned I may want to look into this Dekka with new Absob Glass mat technology ..Now what I'm looking for is some opions on this .... http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/default.aspx?pageid=510 The above is the address to this place ....looks interesting ...I'd like to hear from you gents and thanks for all the replies in advance!! -
What's the average battery life on these bikes? My 05 Midnight's battery has already given up the ghost. Only has 16K on the odometer too. Anyone know if the warranty covers them? I've already bought and installed another one due to the fact we're having our first group ride tomorrow, plus the fact that we're having low-mid 70* temps and lots of sunshine both weekend days. No way was I going to be sitting home. I've got a 01 Suzuki Volusia that still has original battery in it with 20 k on the clock. Larry
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Will a battery tender that kicks itself out when the battery is charged (green light/red light) damage a battery if left on 2-3months? I've had one hooked up to my RSV 2 gen. since December and have heard different opinions. What is your experience? Thanks and happy scooting to us all soon with spring on the way.
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Craig and I hooked up the wiring for my new piggybacker on a 2002 midnight 2nd GEN. and everything worked right but the 4 way flashers. we used a 5-wire to a 4-wire hookup. I did hook the ground directly to the battery and not the ground wire to blinkers and taillight. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? If so would you email me what it would take to fix the problem. kj4v@bellsouth.net ......Ken
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You may recall my posts eralier this week regarding my battery on my RSV going dead after only a 160 mile ride, using heated gear & passing lamps. I decided to run 2 tests this weekend -- looks to me like my new RSV is not charging the batt -- TEST ONE - SAT 3 FEB (fully charged batt) TEMP = 30 degrees DISTANCE = 100 miles AVG SPEED = 50mph PASSING LAMPS = YES GERBING GEAR = YES, Jacket & gloves (@50%) Upon return I hooked up the battery tender -- it took 5.5 hrs to get to solid green light, full charge. (( Jacket = 6.4 amps, 77 watts; Gloves = 2.2 amps, 27 watts)) TEST TWO - SUN 4 FEB (fully charged batt) TEMP = 30 degrees DISTANCE = 100 miles AVG SPEED = 52 mph PASSING LAMPS = YES GERBING GEAR = None Upon return I hooked up the battery tender -- it went to flashing green in 30 seconds (80% charge) -- it took 2.5 hrs to get to solid green light, full charge. For certain, there is a bigger drain using heated gear. BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY -- this system is not charging the battery. This is my 6th bike and with the exception of the evil HD from hell, none of them came back in the garage from a ride with an un-charged battery. So, I guess it's time to have the dealer put in that new battery? Your opinions appreciated, DREBBIN
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After I got the 07 RSV home yesterday from the dealer checking my dead batt, I immediately hooked up the new Battery Tender -- it went SOLID RED right away which of course means it is hooked up OK and has at least 3 volts. It took 5.5 hours to get to GREEN FLASHING = at least 80% charge. Then at 7 hrs it was SOLID GREEN. Whaddya think? Ok battery?
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I took the day off to continue my beak in -- wanted to get to 400 today - I did. I stopped 1 mile from my house to fill up -- D E A D battery when I tried to start -- just a very small hum/click. Orange light on left console for CHECK ENGINE etc. Nice enough guy at the station came out with a portable charger -- took 3 tries but we got it and I;m home. Now what -- obviously going to my dealer on Tue when he opens, closed today. Do ya think this just was not chareged correctly at set up? Opinions/suggestions appreciated, DREBBIN UPDATE TUE 30 JAN -- I was the only "ride in" to service today and therfore the first in line; actually, I was the line (LOL) VERY POSITIVE experience at the dealer -- there were lots of raised eyebrows when they saw me there. Bottom line -- the lead tech (who has an excellent rep in this area) said the batt cables were not tight enough for his standards. Then he did a load test. With engine running (sitiing still), brights on AND passing lamps on it was at 13.25. I bough a battery charger and we installed the harness for it too. Due to the fine advice herein we also ordered the Kury voltmeter. He also said these engines do not need to get at a certain RPM to charge the system. He did say that the more speed you do the more the magnets fire the better the charging, etc. So, as of 1200 my time, it is hooked up in my garage with a red charging light -- let's see how long it takes to get to solid green. Great site, good people, I look forward to buying ya'll BBQ!!! DREBBIN
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Originally posted by "Squeeze" In cold Conditions, and if you use a Standard Lead/Acid Battery, i recommend, before Starting the Engine, leave the Lights on for 30 Seconds. Seems to be stupid without Explanation. It is not ... The starting Power the Battery is able to give ist in direct Context to the inner Resistance of the Battery. If the Acid is cold, the Resistance will be high, e.G. 10 Ohm. If you start the Bike right away, the Resistance in the Battery is much higher than that of the Startermotor. The Startermotor ist in short Circuit in the first Moment of putting Current on it. As the Startermotor starts to turn, the Resistance rises to the normal Level of about 2 to 4 Ohm. The Resistance of the Battery with 10 Ohm and the Motor with Zero or maybe 2 Ohm, is much more a Batteryheater than a engine starting Subsystem. The Power of the Battery gets lost while heating and cranking the Engine. If the Engine doesn't start right away, the Battery power gets weaker and weaker, even if it is now heated with own its Power. There is no more Power left to deliver to the Starter. If you put on your Lights first, the Battery will have the same starting Resistance, 10 Ohm as i said. The Bulbs have a much higher Resistance, so, the Bulbs will shine and the Battery gets also heatet but not that quick and not that energyconsumpting as a failed starting Sequence will have used. The inner Resistance of the Battery drops down on warmer Condition inside the Battery. 30 Seconds later ... Voila... press the Button and the Starter cranks more powerfull, because this Circuit isn't a Batteryheater anymore. By "preheating" the Acid, it is more Capacity awakened as the Loss by the Lights is. The 10 Ohm as the inner Resistance is not the correct Value, it is just for explanation and better Understanding of the System. In Fact the Resistance is more 1 Ohm than 10, anyways, this tiny Trick works on all Lead/Acid-Batteries for sure. Cars, Bikes, Trucks ... Might also be helpful on Batterytypes, but not that impressive, because other Types have a way smaller inner Resistance by System. This is not my idea, i did learn this Years ago, when i was 3 Days send to a Battery manufacterer for a 3 Days Seminar. __________________ Life's too short to have bad Drinks ....
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Well it looks as if my battery is belly-up. What are the opinions on replacement batteries for the 1st gens? I'd like to go maintenance free if possible, but looking for the bang-for-the-buck factor. Don't want to throw a wad of cash out, but will spend a bit more for a better battery. Also, does anyone have a good way to do a load test on a battery to make sure if it is the problem or not? I could hook up a 12 volt load to it, but I have no idea how long it should last. The battery reads 13 volts after a couple of nights on the battery minder jr, but won't crank the starter more than a couple of revs before the relays chatter. Fluid levels are good, battery light is off. I ran a new cable I made out of heavy guage aircraft electrical wire to the starter. I've looked at the archives, but I think many good battery threads, must have been lost back in the crash. The dang electrical problems ended my season early, and I want this thing running well before spring. Any other ideas will be appreciated.
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I THINK this was written up by Squidley. Installation of the Battery Cable Upgrade As some of you have been patiently waiting for, here is the step by step instructions on how to install the Battery Cable upgrades on the 1st gen. I'm going to try my best to keep it in chronological order for less head aches. I will also mention that you might want to go out and purchase a magnetic tool tray to put all the screws and bolts into so none get lost. If you feel nervous on taking your bike apart this far I would suggest that as your disassembling it you take pictures with a digital camera to aid you in the reinstall. I have done this in the past and it's very helpful. Step 1: Remove the Faux tank cover by opening the fuel door and removing the lower retraining screw. Push forward and then lift up off the bike. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.1.jpg Step 2: Disconnect the battery cables (both of them) and screw your retaining bolts back into the posts of the battery so they don't get lost. Pull the cables off to the side, as you will need some room to work around. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.2.jpg Step 3: You will need to remove the battery from it's tray, to do this you will have to un-strap it from the battery box. There is a rubber strap with metal rings that are in the fore and aft area of the box on the top. Pull the one in the front down to disengage it from it's hook point and then lift the entire fuse block off of the battery. You will need to pull the battery sensor wire (white with Red stripe) apart for the removal of the battery and remove the battery from the bike. Step 4: Next you will need to remover the upper fairing electronics on your left side the radio assy. and on the right the CLASS and CB. Pull them out and remove their cradles as you will also have to remove the top covers where the speakers are molded into. You will need to remove both upper pcs and disconnect all electronic leads so you have a clear area to work in. Remember also to pull the Headlight Adjusting Knob on the left side by pulling it strait back towards you. This will need to be off to facilitate removal of the speakers cover. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.3.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.4.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.5.jpg Step 5: There are 2 crescent shaped grill pieces on both sides of the steering head, the right one has the hazard switch in it. Pull the screws and remove both of these, disconnecting the hazard switch from the wire loom. Step 6: Now it's time to pull the battery box out you will need a 10 mm socket and ratchet with a 6" extension. There are 2 bolts in the bottom of the box that will probably be corroded; I would suggest you spray them down with penetrating oil before you attempt to loosen them. Don’t be surprised if you snap 1 or both of them while trying to remove them, if you do, you can drill and re-tap if it concerns you. One of mine is broken and I really don’t worry about it. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.6.jpg Now there is a 3rd bolt holding the battery box in, to get to it you will need to remove the auxiliary fuse block which is simply pushed onto a retaining bar as it's encased in a rubber holder. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.7.jpg Pull up on this assembly and move it out of your way now you'll be able to see the 3rd bolt, which is also a 10mm. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.8.jpg Step 7: Now your ready to pull the battery box out completely, there is a small trick to this. You want to pull it out from the right side at an angle, as there are 2 prongs on the left side that hold the Starter solenoid. It will take a little finagling but you'll just have to wiggle it out. The solenoid is encased in rubber and that is how it's attached to the box, you'll just have to slide it off the posts to the left. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.9.jpg Now your area should be clear of all the items necessary to get you cables in from the top down to the sides of the bike. Step 8: Now you have to pull off the 2 side panels the removable ones on both sides of the bike by your legs. Then up to the front and the 2 side shields that are besides the radiator, they are held on by 2 screws each. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.10.jpg When the screws are out pull the panel strait backwards and disengage it from it's slot and then forward . You can remove the horn brackets if you want but you don’t need to as the side shields will come off with them attached. Step 9: Depending on the year of your bike it might or might not have the lower air dam but this has to come off also just for the space availability, and to get at the starter, (If you don’t have this piece skip to step 10). http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.11.jpg There are 4 Allen head bolts that hold it on, 2 on the sides that are visible and 2 underneath the piece, take them out and remove that air dam. Step 10: Remove the chin bar that holds the 2 lower fairing pieces together, this is usually a Phillips head screw or 10mm head bolt, set this aside. Now to remover the 2 lower fairings with the air vents in them, remove the lower bolts from these assemblies (10mm) first and then come up to the top and remove the 2 Phillips screws that are now visible. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.12.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.13.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.14.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.15.jpg You should now be able to remove both of the lower fairing pieces. Now that your all disassembled it's time to install the new battery cables, this can be tedious and I would suggest that you have another pair of hands to help you as it goes LOTS easier with 2 people. I have done it by myself but you just have to be patient if you try to rush it you'll just get mad. Here's what needs to happen now.... Note; While you have access to the rear cylinder spark plug coils, I would suggest replacing the plug wires while they are accessible http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.16.jpg Installation of the cables Step 1: I would suggest you start with the Negative side first as it is the easiest to install and will boost your confidence a bit before attempting the Positive (note: remember the Positive cables have the red heatshrink the Negative has the black) Take a good look at how the cable is routed before you start, there is a small flexible tab that keeps the cable in place on the frames down tube. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.17.jpg These will need to be opened up as well as any cable ties that are holding the stock negative cable in place. (Remember to take pics of the routing if you dont feel confident that you'll remember) Now disconnect the Negative cable from the engine block using a 10mm socket or wrench. Step 2: It's totally up to you how you want to run the new cables, you can either pull them down from the top, or pull them up from the bottom. Myself I would pull them up as this is how I have done it in the past, now the fun begins. You will need a good strong cable tie as you are going to connect the old and new cables together.You also need to separate the additional grounding link as it will just be cut off from the cable and a new connector will be crimped onto it. Once this is done you are going to start your Push/Pull method, you will run into some resistance as the new cables are almost twice the diameter of the stock ones, so be paitent. (NOTE: You can apply some WD 40 to the outside of the cable to help the cable slide through). The Negative should pull through fairly easily as there isn't a lot in it's path. Your second set of hands will come in handy here, being up top pulling as you work the cable through it's path from below. Once you get the new portion of cable in the box area http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.18.jpg you'll need to go below and hook up the new cable to the engine block. You can take a pair of vice grip pliers and bend the copper tab over to 90 degrees like the stock one is..this is just for a cleaner look and better fit. Now you can attach the cable back onto the frame tube where it was before and your done with that side. Step 3: Now it's time to do the Positive, this will be a bit more difficult as there is a lot in the area that the cable needs to go through. NOTE: For you who are a bit frazzled right now it might be a good time to get some refreshments ie; a beer or a shot of Beam or just a Root beer and take a break.You are going to do the same procedure as the Negative cable and first remove the Positive cable from the starter which is down inbetween the front exhaust pipes, it's a 10mm nut that holds it on. Remove the rubber nut cover from the stock cable as you can use this again on the new cable. You'll have to split it and re tape it around the new cable or go to your local electrical supply and purchase a bigger one. Then you need to remove the top of the Positive cable from the Starter Solenoid, and separate the fuseable link as it will just be cut off from the cable and a new connector will be crimped onto it. Step 4: This is where it can be aggrivating as you will have to snake the Positive through tighter areas, short pulls win the race here so 2 sets of hands are very helpful in these steps. Some of you might have to loosen the bolts that holds the radio amp (left side) to the frame as I have seen some cables routed through there. I have pictured out where the cable comes up through the battery box area. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.19.jpg Once you have the cable in the box area you can re attach it to the frame tube and down to the starter, then pull your slack cable up into the box. Remember dont pull it super tight as you still have to install all your other components. Step 5: Replace the short lead from the Solenoid to the battery, Pay attention to how it is twisted and clamped on the solenoid as you will need to have it in a similar shape for the reinstall. I would suggest you do this before you reinstall the battery box as it it will be easier to get to the retaining nut. NOTE; The rubber ends that cover the positive lugs can be reused but you will have to split them to wrap around the thicker cable. I have done this and you can use either electrical tape or a larger heat shrink tube. You can also go to your local electrical supply house and purchase bigger ends to go over the cables. Your almost home free now all that’s left is to start reassembly
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