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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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I have heard that using the kickstand to shut the bike down is not the best option and that the kill switch is best. Any reason why? Thanks
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First, This is my first post to Venture Riders. This looks like a great place to be if you ride a Venture or Royal Star. Secondly, I would like to apologize; this post will be a bit long. I have an electrical problem that has me baffled. I have a 1997 RSTD, 31280 miles. Bike runs great, very comfortable, love the look. But it developed an electrical issue. Riding along, the bike died. Other electrical items remain on. Turn the key off then back on, it started right back up. This condition was very random; it may be fine for the rest of the ride or it may die again in an hour or it may die in a mile. After research I believed it was the ignition switch. Everything I read, heard or saw indicated the switch was bad. Since the Yamaha switch ws so expensive, I decided to use a generic switch and duplicate the switch circuit; one hot wire in and 3 power wires out. I built the circuit, replaced the switch, spliced in the wires. Turned the key, had lights, turn signal, horn, CB, fuel pump etc. Hit the starter button, nothing. Pulled in the clutch, nothing. Raised the kickstand, blew the main fuse. Aha, the kick stand switch. Jumped the switch, put in a new fuse, turned the key and blew the main fuse again. Pulled the starter cut out relay, and reading the service manual checked the continuity across the blue/yellow pin and the sky blue pin. The relay appears not to have continuity. There is infinite resistance showing on my meter in both directions. I believe the relay is bad. So is the relay bad and it caused the issue, or is it bad because of the ignition switch issue. OR is the kickstand switch bad and it caused both the stalling problem and the possible dead relay? Again, sorry for the long first post. Thanks in advance for any advice, I really appreciate any help John -
Hello, I finally got my 83 Venture running well enough to ride. Rode to work Saturday. All went well. Got home and went to leave again, Hit the starter button and nothing. No crank, headlight goes out, and gauge lights dim. It will start and run if I jump the starter solinoid contacts. I took my starter switch apart and cleaned the contacts but it made no difference. I found a guide on cleaning the switch by Dingy (old thread from 2009). I noticed that in picture 12, the switch contact pad looks like it is raised. Mine is completely flat/smooth. Would this keep it from making contact? Also, if i flip the kill switch on and off, I can hear a relay switching, so it seems like the kill switch is good. I havent had time to do the tests on the switch yet. I just saw what looked like a possibility. Any thoughts?
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I am about to install a radio/amp on my '06 RSTD. I know I can wire the amp directly to the battery leads however i would prefer to have the radio controlled by the ignition switch. I'm looking for how to instructions. Any help would be much appreciated. -
Anyone Interested In Selling A Hazard Switch for 89 VR, before I bid on bay? -
I have a 2008 RSTD and want to add spotlights. I purchased as set that were original equipment to early 2000's Indian, which has the turn signal built into the bottom of the spotlight housing. They mount fine on the RSTD spotlight bar. Does anyone have a diagram of how these get wired into the right circuit? I have seen where RSTD owners have added a toggle switch for on / off. Where do folks mount that toggle switch? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. R.
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The wife bought me three 18" red LED light strips to mount on the RSV, which I'll probably mount under the tank rim so that they will light up the chrome in the engine area. Just not sure about what kind of on/off switch to get or the best place to mount it. Any suggestions?
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Well, my ignition switch is showing signs that it's getting ready to fail. I wired a bypass tonight, don't want to get left stranded in the middle of nowhere this weekend, headed to Copper Harbor, Mi. I have been reading the tech section for ideas on how to go about fixing the switch. How many have tried disassembling and repairing the switch ? This thread details fixing the switch. What I'd like to know is if others have had success doing this repair?
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Hi all! I have a really dumb question and I know it touches on my post yesterday about relays and driving lights but at the same time it is separate. Forum monitor please forgive me. I bought a relay and all of the parts I need to put a relay in. I printed a couple of different posts that had schematics and instructions. I purchased a simply on off push button type switch that is more robust than the one that comes with the Yamaha light kit. I have a couple of questions; (1) what is the difference between a simple switch that has two connect points and one that has three? Also I want to hook my lights up so they are on all the time whether I am using low or high beam. The official Yamaha instructions says" On all the time: Splice red power lead to red w/Yellow stripe lead (in natural nylon multi connector) My assumption is that what they are referring to is what the instruction I have read call "Switched Power" and that one wire goes from here to one terminal on the switch and one wire goes from terminal 86 of the relay on the coil side to the other connect point on the switch. Sorry, schematics confuse me. My apologies for the dumb question. Any help is appreciated Chris in Red Deer -
I turned my bike on yesterday and the driving lights wouldn't come on at all. The dealer did the install back last December and they didn't put the switch in as per the Yamaha instructions. I'm almost certain that the fuse inside the faring is blown and that I have a pinched wire either in the centre of the bar mount or when the bike is swung all the way out in one direction. I did notice that on the right hand side when I swing it out to expose it, that a blue wire looked pinched. Today I purchase all of the necessary parts to install a relay and a switch. I have been reading lots of the posts on this subject and my one question at this point is do I have to take the gas tank off in order to do this? One post with pictures says that the gas tank has to be removed. Has anyone installed a relay and a switch without having to remove the gas tank? Thank you in advance Chris
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Ok I have a very odd problem. It is not so much a problem as it is a nuisance. If I use the kil switch ti shut off the engine then when I want to start the bike up I have to 1) turn the switch to run 2) push the starter button 3) turn the kill switch off then on again and then start it. If I just flip it on then off then on again then I will be push starting. I have to try to start it before turning it of then back on. Any ideas? It is like some possessed anti theft or something. Shaun
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Hello I am new here and was wondering if anyone has ever has had a problem with the starter not ever going off? I took my starter switch apart and am unable to figure out how to put it back together also. Even with the starter switch apart it still turns over and will not shut off! Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks you alll so very much in advance.
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In the highly unlikely event that you collide with something small in road and the sidestand switch is damaged, cut the lead going into the switch. You will find two wires. Remove a little insulation and twist the wires together. Just make sure the stand is up before you leave. Didn't show up until I stopped for fuel. Put the stand down and the plunger must have stayed mashed, 'cause the bike wouldn't start in gear, only neutral. And died when I put it in gear. (Stand up or down) Switch must be jammed in open position.
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Does anyone know where to get a clutch switch for a MKII? Mine was broken & rigged by the PO as a fix- I just figured it out after a few years of ownership whilentrying to diagnose a cruise control problem. I can't find the part number anywhere. Looking at the online microfiches, I am having trouble actually identifying the actual part. Another idea- By chance does anyone have a spare that they are willing to sell? -
I installed a set of driving lights about 6 months ago. I wired them independently, with a relay and switch. The lights have recently started going out and coming back on at random times. When i installed them i made sure to have very good ground connections to avoid ground problems later. My question is, could a bad relay act this way? I have already replaced the switch, and since the switch is a lighted switch, i can see when the lights go out. When they do go out after i shut down my bike for awhile, i try them and they work. I think it could be the relay. When i replace it what should i look for? Im sorry, electrical circuits are not my strength.
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I have just started noticing that my passing lights are on sometimes, and not at others. Since I bought the bike with them installed, I have never seen a switch for them. I thought they ran with my low beams, but lately if I pull up to someones back end at a light, in the reflection they are sometimes on and sometimes off. I think it is a short, but wanted to check to see if I am missing a switch. High/low beam doesn't make any diference. I guess I could rewire them to run with both. Is it better to wire a switch in, like I had on my 1st gen?
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My kickstand switch is intermittent and has killed the engine going down the highway. Any experts out there with an easy fix?
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I am coming from the wing and with that you could listen to the radio and then if the CB kicked in it would mute the radio and you would hear the CB. The dealer told me this system is independent meaning you either listen to the radio or switch to CB and listen for that. Also if I was to purchase a GPS would I be able to plug it into the aux near the cassette and have that work with the CB and radio. Hope my question makes sense.
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OK I am resembling the bike finale and the 4 way flasher switch is acting up I have no turn signals or 4 ways and sometimes I will flicker it back and forth and they will work and so will my turn signals. Is that a sign that the switch is going or am I missing something else in the picture. By the way if any body has a switch for sale let me know. Thanks Al Or is there a way to by pass the switch to make the turn signals work. -
The neutral switch on my 87 XVZ1300 is leaking oil. After opening the side cover I see that the wiring is cooked pretty well and I'd like to replace the switch assembly while I'm in there. Have a source for a new old stock 1984 XVZ1200L switch and am wondering if that would work as a replacement? The price is reasonable as compared to the dealers crazy price. If it won't work, does anyone know where I can get a reasonably priced replacement switch. Part numbers on the package of the possible replacement part are 41R-82540-01 A890725C 62 0612-3 -
Hey all, I checked out most all the threads on the neutral switch, but didn't find anything that resembles this issue. I had to replace the ignition switch ( main power on contact plate fried). put in a switch from a '78 400 special mounted on the left side of seat. everything worked fine when on the hoist. Set the bike down, tried to start,,, no spark! followed the wiring schematic and traced it back to the neutral switch. will start only when the stand is up or stand down and clutch engaged. Could it be the gear indicator in the Tranny? if so, would it be best to bypass the clutch neutral switch on the bars? I prefer to keep the stand working, and i don't use the clutch to disengage the cruise. Thanks in advance
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This past weekend, on the Central Kentucky ride, the switch that controls the speaker/headphones got a bit strange acting then quit working altogether. When I got home, I took it apart and found one of the legs on the switch had broken off, and because of its size, will be mostly impossible to repair. I wonder if anyone has a spare that they would sell. Either the switch button or the black plastic enclosure that the switch fits in to. I would appreciate any thoughts on a technique to repair it as well.
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i just had something like this happen when i left the hood open on a car in the rain. i replaced the wires and all was fine. THIS BIKE WAS PERFECT FOR THE PAST 1000 MILES UNTILL YESTERDAY I LEFT IT OUTSIDE IN A HORRIBLE RAINSTORM. i checked all the spark plug boots ( three of which are new) to see if the water got into them but they all have there protective seal over the top and bottom of the boot. its arcing somewhere but WHERE? I was just telling myself the other day how much i liiked that the rain didnt affect this bike. IT was a bad storm the other night, so far its been drying for about 1 day and still misfiring. i checked the kickstand wires which i already had rigged and i even cut and attached the wires for the kill switch and i think i already removed the tip over switch, please please help, ps im sure i wouldnt be having this problem if only i had closed the vents on the side of the motor.... -
Any suggestion as to what and where to purchase. Mine is not a Royal and I bought one off Ebay that mounts between the grip and the power switch assembly - Problem is, on my bike the throttle grip and the power switch do not seperate so the bracket cannot fit between them. Thanks in advance. Roger
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