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Showing results for tags 'rear'.
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Hi gang. Is it possible to remove the rear shock and the fender will not hit the tire? so It can be put on a lift and carted off to my dealer for my trike conversion? I was wondering if removing the rear shock would cause any problems , A person that owns a second gen needs a shock pretty soon. otherwise he has to wait until about the 2nd week of March. If I can remove it, what is the procedure on doing that? Almost looks as if I would have to remove the Tire.. ummmm maybe I otta let them remove it. *lol* My Poor Bike is almost NAKED NOW *sigh* Basically I was wondering if it was a BIG deal or not. Thanks, Jeff
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I figgered I'd toss this out there. Does anyone have a rear wheel off a 2nd gen they're wanting to get rid of? I'm not worried about the paint or what color it is. I'd just like to have a spare rear wheel and brake rotor to have an extra tire mounted up.
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I have lowered the front and rear of my RSV and now need to shorten the kickstand. The shifting linkage prevents the removal of the bolt that holds the kickstand on. Anyone have any experience in changing out the kickstand? I am not knowing if it is better to disconnect the shifting linkage toward the rear or drop the floorboard. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
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I just took out the battery and charged it. When I put it back in the radio doesn't play through the front speakers. I can barely hear it from the right rear speaker even up at max vol level.My bike is the 2000 venture mm.
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I removed the floorboards from my 1985 VR and installed the standard footpegs. I will offer them here before ebay/craigslist; asking $250 . . . will consider trade for black seat in good condition will consider trade for good Vmax cams Also have rear bumper and trailer hitch for sale or trade. Please see this thread for more info; http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=295117#post295117 http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o318/GaryZ_photos/pix037b.jpg -
If I have the correct info the Dunlop E2 tires are going to be hard to find, if available at all. I have a practically new E2 on the rear of my 88VR and can't really afford to replace both tires this year, especially considering the condition of the rear tire. Does anybody know if i can safely "mix" an E3 for the front with my existing E2 on the rear? Or does anybody have contact info for Dunlop so I can ask them?
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Well it is official today, My Hannigan Conversion Kit Was ordered today at my dealership. (I think One of the First 2K Millennium Color trikes they will be painting) Should be installed sometime March and I should be able to ride by the end of March. This is also my Birthday Present from my Wife *BWG* (cost approx $13,200) great wife eh? . I will be removing ALL of the rear of the bike from the bottom of the trunk and the only thing left under the trunk will be the drive shaft. ALL will be sold on eBay or here. I will also have Don's Great Center Stand (SOLD) The other thing I will have ready pretty soon is Venture Dads Complete Hitch (SOLD) System witch has work very well also. (having a new one added to the trike) has to be a different design , by hannigan. The rest that will be removed-- Rear Tire, each side of rear tire - A-Arm stuff? Lower light bar under trunk (SOLD),------ Both Hard Saddle Bags (SOLD) , --------Saddle bag Guards (SOLD), -----------Fender, Rear Tail light, Rear Shock (SOLD) and Blinkers . I am sure some of you will figure out what else I don't need anymore... oh maybe even the Kick Stand.. ummm. Make sure you spread the word that the Saddle bags are the Millennium Color's very hard to find. or to try and have one's painted to match. (one saddle bag is going to be sent for color match and come back) Anyways , I am very EXCITED !! And all this should be done by the time all this damn snow melts! I am also snowed to the point that I could not bring my bike there. my Dealer at no charge 70 miles away is coming to pick my bike up with his bike truck rig. no charge. P.S. >> I did hear from one other trikster that his (WHINE) went away when he added his kit. (not hannigan) Now wouldn't that be something. I wont believe it until it happens to me *lol* But you see I still have this bike no matter what! I love it. (medical reasons for triking) and other issue's. Jeff
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I completed this modification, last week, so far seems to be working good. Idea: To obtain, Brighter Turn signals Front, and Rear -- I purchaced 4 each, sylvania 2357 LL ( long life ) new bulbs. Mod to Rear Signals. 1. Remove the original 1156, Single fillament Bulb. 2. Modify two of the new 2357LL bulbs by building a " Solder Bridge " across the two contact points on the end of bulb, then grind or file the solder bridge Flat. Then grind off the upper side "prong " of the bulb. ( just the upper one ) (((( See Photo's for Rear Bulb Modifications )))) 3. Now Install the modified 2357LL in place of the original 1156. You now have the 28.5 watts, plus 8.3 watts, total of 36.8 Watts. The original Standared 1156, single fillament bulb, pulls about 27.7 watts. NO, rewireing is required !!! ( a good thing ) About a 33 percent increase in Wattage. ----------------------------- Mod. to Front Signals. In front, the stock bulb is a standard 1157, two fillament bulb. You can just replace with the new 2357LL and this will give you about a 3.5 percent increase. (( Do not modify the Bulb )) (( you will modify the wireing up front, each side )) OK--- here is what I did up front. The Blue Wire, on each front socket, is for the low wattage , front marker light filament. Cut the Blue wire, back about 2 to 3 inches from the socket, and Splice the 2 inch pigtail into the other wire, going into the socket (( Ch, chocolate )) on left side. -------------------------------------------------(( Dg , Dark Green )) on right side. Now your Ch (choolate ) wire on left is feeding Both fillaments of the 2357LL on the left side, and the Dark Green is feeding both fillaments on the right side. Same result as the above mod of the Rear turn signals. Now just install your new 2357LL bulbs each side. Wa La, you now have 30 percent brighter front turn signals. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK, you now have NO, forward markers left and right, just a blue wire on each side dangleing in the breeze. Next step, Run down to local auto parts, get a Bulb socket, for a 7 to 8 watt bulb. I think a 1056 is the one, or an LED Equivelant . And new bulbs. Now Drill a hole inside the light assembly, mount the new socket, and hook to the (((blue ))) wire on each side, And the Ground wire. ( splice, and solder, and insulate )) If you use an LED bulb, you will save about 1 Amp of total Current Draw on the system. Also, if you replace the TWO stock REAR Tail/Brake lights, with 1157 LED Replacenemts, you will save another 1 amp of total Current Draw. ( I got these LED replacements at my local auto parts ) Just Replace the stock bulbs ) -------------------------------------------- You have now Decreased the total current draw by 2 Amps, from rear tail, and front markers by replaceing with LED's. You now have 30 percent Brighter Turn Signals. ( don't worry about the added current draw of signals, cause they are seldom ON. ) And you now have LED Brake lights. I know !! this is confuseing--- such is life --- Does it work? yes, for a week so far -- everything seems OK.
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I thought I read somewhere that the the rear rack from the early Royal Star (1998) that mounts to the rear seat bolt and the license bracket would fit the RSTD but can't find the thread now. Could someone confirm that this works? I attached some photos of the rack for reference. Thanks! RSTDddog -
I thought about installing a combined turn signal/brake light bar. Seems that defeats the purpose that the main message is "I am stopping" to the person behind me. I now plan to buy the Signal Dynamics 15" LED light bar with high and low intensity. I recall there being installation instructions somewhere as to how to install this light bar under the rear trunk? Anyone completed this installation and have some tips, instructions or photos for me to use for installation ? Appreciate the help.
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I trailered my bike to Tallahassee Powersports this morning for the 40,000 mile service. I unloaded the bike and unhooked the trailer and left the bike and trailer at the dealership. I made some sales calls around town and came back at 3:00 and hooked to the trailer again. I started up the ramp into the trailer and in the blink of an eye the tongue of the trailer went straight up into the air and then came down and busted the back glass and damaged the rear of my lincoln aviator. I thought I was going down with the bike but managed to keep it straight. Ruined my day. I can't believe the trailer wasn't attached all the way. But as the saying goes, stuff happens. Could have been worse I guess.
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Hi from France ! Can you tell me if the rear frame is the same on the first and second generation because I want to put the 2nd gen saddlebags on my old 1200 venture ! Thanks for all ! barry-only-n7 -
Not sure when this darned cold snap will end that it gets warm enough in the garage to work on the bike. When that happens, I am replacing the rear shock on my 1st gen. and was wondering if anyone has pics and/or a step by step explanation of the procedure. Would appreciate if anyone has so I have a better understanding of what I'm getting into. Would appreciate knowing if there are any special tools needed, and roughly how long this job should take. Thanks
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I'm looking for the rear center frame piece you may have removed while installing a trailer hitch. Have you one being kicked around the garage floor or hanging on the wall ? If so ! what would it take for you to part with it ? Gary PM me Or Call 810-516-0035 verizon Thanks
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After my 2000 Venture was totaled I bought 2003 to replace it. The 03 had a whine that I knew was probably the notorious clutch whine. As I rode it more and more I figured out that it was definitely a rear end noise not clutch. I took it to 3 diff dealers and was told clutch basket. The dealer I liked best for the fix told me that would help but not fix the noise. I assured him I would not settle with that knowing I had 86k on bike that was totaled with zero noise. I told him I didn't want him or any dealer doing it if they were promising that it would not fix it! To shorten this long story a little......Yamaha got back to him and told him....WE DON"T HAVE A REAR END PROBLEM WITH THE VENTURE BUT.....If he don't mind taking it to dealer in Seymour In. he could fix the problem and they would pay him to fix the problem it does'nt have! I live 3hrs from there in Ohio but always up for a ride...Gen II Yamaha's deny needing any shims because of great machine tolerances......The Dealer is Dan's Cycle Sales Yamaha and they build Venture and other Yamaha trikes. I was told that the Venture Trikes they convert would lose the Yamaha whine when the rear diff was gone. Within an hour I watched him take it apart and shim it and then test ride it. Gary ask me to test ride it too....I came back hating to tell him that the noise was much less but still their....but he was on the phone and I had to wait to tell him......when off the phone he ask me what I thought and I told him....He then told me he was on the phone with Yamaha getting auth. to install new rear end......DONE FIXED NO NOISE I did learn from watching him how he figures the amount of shim needed to fix most whines. JerryK -
g,day all has anyone replaced the rear air shock on an 83 venture with something standard ie non air shock
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1. If your horns are not loud, take them off, remove the back cover, loosen the adjusting screw and nut and readjust for the loudest noise. Cover your ears! 2. Grease the hand and foot levers often, You'll be surprised how much easier they will operate and last. Do this often in wet climates. 3. Drop the carb needle jets to get better gas mileage. 4. On Std. models the area under the trunk under a black plastic cover is empty. I easily converted it to tool storage. 5. On Std models remove the fairing pockets/trays/compartments and cut it out . This will double your storage space. Fill in gaps with pink insulation? Carry light items only. 6. Cup holder: Walmart bicycle cup holder, $5, mount to handlebar. Use a metal insulated covered cup from $1 stores. 7. Wire tie the 2 side panel blackstraps to the frame so you don't loose them. $10 each from Yamaha! 8. The removeable rear trunks on MK1's have an adjustment on the underside brackets to tighten them up so they don't rattle as much. 9. My Venture leaned over too far on the side stand I easily extended it by adding a wood block under the foot. 1/2" thick. 10. I added a electrical brake light switch to the right handlebar to flash tailgators and when slowing down slowly. 11. If the trunk opens too far, hitting the driver in the back. Add a 2 piece lever that pivots in the center so the top lid only opens just over center. 12. The wires were too tight under the handlebar covers so I added a longer screw and spacer to give then more room. 13. On the rear fender the black extension gets dirty and muddy. I put silicone glue on the inner underside between to painted fender and black extension to keep it clean. 14. 2nd brake light $7 Ebay 24 LEDs mount on license bracket. 15. The blue high beam indicator is hard to see if it is "on" in the daylight (I drive with my brights on ALL the time, maybe why I'm still alive?) drill a very small hole in the center so you can see white light and recover with clear tape. 16. Footpegs vibrate? Put a small rubber insulator (inner tube?) between metal parts on the fold down stops. 17. Lots of slop on gear shift and foot brake lever? Put some thin teflon inside the pivots. 18. Aluminum screening on the radiator behind the grill will keep bugs and stones from going thru or plugging the radiator. 19. MK1's: drain the front air box drain hose back to the crankcase ventilation hose with a "T". 20. Loosely packed course steel wool will keep oil from entering the air cleaner in the crankcase vent hose line. (Or keep oil level at 1/2 way mark, scarely to me on long trips) 21. Glue the YICS box seam/joint before it starts leaking. 22. Glue the 4 air box intake rubbers in place so they don't leak or turn. See the tab on under side for positioning. 23. I took a good looking leather bag and converted it into a tank bag (don't laugh it's a purse with lots of pockets). Be Careful when doing tight turns. 24. There is a battery box drain hole (left rear) that just needs a hose attached to it so if you get a leaking battery it won't drain onto the engine, electronics, & solenoid, etc. 25. Use silicone (dielectric) grease on the intake boots, carb diaphrams, & all rubber to keep them soft. DON"T DO THIS!
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I keep hearing the stories of the ME880's coming apart but I'm just got to thinking... Is it the front, rear or both?
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In the not too distant past, someone posted that having the rear end gears re-setup when using a Ford 7.5" rear end in a Yamaha VR or equivalent trike project was mandatory. Upon whoever it was freaking me out, I stopped working on the trike until I could get a chance to pull the rear end (mine is an independent rear end) Anyway...upon removing it, pulling the inspection cover, and using Prussian blue on the gear set and rotating them in the proper direction, I found out I had freaked out over nothing. The proper imprint pattern was better turning them this direction than it had been when they were in the Cougar I took them out of. My point is, don't freak out over this same situation until you've had the gear set checked for proper imprint. You may not have to spend anything except a gasket and some lube. Now I can continue with my project feeling much more comfortable. I'm not saying the person's post was bad--and I appreciate the post because it made me stop and think about something I hadn't considered--but it isn't necessarily something to freak out about. Just have it checked, you may be okay like I am.
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My present rotor is warped so I'm looking for a good unwarped rear rotor for my 86VR...If you have one for sale let me know ASAP....thanks Bob Martorana email bobcat04@earthlink.net Reno, Nv -
Anyone have any info on the upgrade to the 83 standard that involves getting a royale shock and a progressive spring for it to upgrade and tighten up the rear shock? I'm putting in progressive springs in the front of my bike this winter, and was thinking of doing that upgrade in the back while everything is completely apart. -
Hey Squid if you are around, a while back I saw a post you made about putting rear back in place. And just can't remember what it was about. I haven't had any trouble yet but when putting it back should you just snug it up and then kind of tighten them down in criss-cross pattern? And how much on these things? Only 14 lb or something like that I think?
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does anyone have any gently used chrome rear floorboards taking up space in there garage they would like to part with? i dont want to pay the dealer price for them yet. oh yeah for the 2nd Gen rsv ( i think the blue and black is faster than the faded blue) hehehehehehe
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2008 Thoroughbred Stallion Vehicle Description The Stallion is a three wheeled motorcycle designed and manufactured in Texas. They use Ford motor Company engines, transmissions, and rear ends. Additional Ford components are used throughout the Stallion. The Stallion was engineered to offer features and benefits for both the passenger and the driver never before seen on a motorcycle. Some of the features that the Stallion has is a Ford 2.3-liter 4 cylinder engine, 5-speed automatic transmission, 150 horsepower, 155 FT.LBS. of torque, 9.5 gallon fuel cell, Ford component gauges, air lift suspension, progressive shocks, steering wheel, trailer hitch, front & rear billet wheels, 7 cubic FT. trunk, EPA rated (MPG) 35 city / 45 HWY, and soft leatherette interior surfaces. It is 125 IN. long, 63 IN. wide, 58 IN. tall, and the weight is 1742 LBS. The available colors are midnight black, candy apple red, black cherry metallic silver, pearl white, and yellow. The price is $32,995.00 + $600.00 for Freight from factory.The Stallion has a 3 Year 36,000 mile warranty. For more information on the stallion visit arkansastrikecenter.com
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My 2007 midnight venture came with dunlop d404 tires from factory. Front tire still looks like new but i have to put a new rear tire on. Can i replace the rear with same size in an avon venom without causing any problems. Need to finish using up the front tire and hate the oem tires. Only 8000 miles and it is slick. Any info would be great
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