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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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i found this photo of a wild looking v max engine. can anyone explain whether this is a standard engine, or has it been tricked out. looks kinda dangerous,if you wear loose fitting jeans!
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2006 Midnight Venture is ready for it's 1,000 mile oil changes. I didn't have a pleasent experience with the dealer so I thought I'd change myself. Engine oil looks simple to do, my question on the gear oil is do I need to remove the saddle bag in order to fill back up
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I have an 83 XVZ12 and there is this noise that comes from the rt side of the engine that sounds like a chain slapping against the inside of the cylinder/upper case area BUT when i set the bike up right it goes away... back on the kick stand and its back, loud slapping sound.. could this be a stretched timing chain or a broken tensioner... can the chain be adjusted or is it an auto tensioner? doesnt seem to effect the engines performance but sounds like its going to fall apart... any ideas???
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As you may know, I just purchased a new Venture. Reading the manual, it says to not over rev the engine during break in. "Avoid prolonged operation above 1/3 throttle (0-600 mi)" "Avoid prolonged operation above 1/2 throttle (600-1000 mi)" Yamaha recommends some crazy shift points. 1rst to 2nd - 13 mph 2nd to 3rd - 19 mph 3rd to 4th - 25 mph 4th to 5th - 31 mph That's crazy! I couldn't imagine shifting up at such a slow speed. This engine seems to run much smoother at a higher RPM. I did a bit of research on engine break in. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm They recommend the opposite of what Yamaha suggests. How did you go about breaking in your new engines? I'm interested on your comments and or recommendations. Bob
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Installed a 86-93 engine in a 83-85 frame? My 84 has a bad oil leak from 13 years of storage. The motor only has 23K on it and runs strong, shifts smooth, no 2nd gear problems yet. I have a 89 motor with only 15K. I would like to know how it runs. Can I swap the two with no problems using the 84 carbs,etc kind of a plug and play swap?This would let me clean up the 84 engine,repair the dry seals, and decide if I should attempt a early second gear fix before problems arise. I could reinstall the 84 engine later. Who knows the 89 might run good in the 84.
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Well, if you read this thread you know about the problems I was having with my 2nd Gen. Well I finally took it to the dealer, because I had some warranty work to be done on it anyway. I finally got them (after a call to Yamaha myself) to replace my warped brake rotor under warranty, and they replaced my fuel petcock. When taking the bike in, I kinda figured they'd assume all of my engine troubles could be traced back to the faulty petcock, and they did. They replaced it, changed out the plugs for me, cleaned and re-synced the carbs (they did say they were off a tad), and replaced a couple hoses that had crud in them from the petcock going bad. I got the bike back last Monday (a week ago) and it seemed to run much better. However, after riding it off and on all week, my problems are back. The engine seems to simply load up, like it's still getting too much gas. In fact, at times you can smell unburnt gas. I did find out that if I'm going down the road and it loads up on me and runs like garbage, if I shut the fuel off at the petcock (which now works properly) and let the thing almost die before turning the gas back on, the problems clear right up and it runs fine again. So it definitely seems like too much gas is the problem. Now what's causing the problems is another mystery. So, I'm going to call the service manager back today and talk to him about it, though I'm pretty sure what he's going to tell me... that my carbs need re-jetted. He told me when I picked it up that they did some kind of test with the exhaust and said it was running slightly rich, but not enough to effect the running of the engine. To be honest, I doubt they ever even took it for a ride further than around the parking lot. So now, if I take it in and they re-jet it, I'm sure that's out of my pocket, and still no guarantee it's going to fix my problem. Could that lead to smelling un-burnt gas? Maybe there is an issue with my choke, though looking over the exterior mechanisms of it, it appears to be in working order. So I don't know... Any thoughts? -
My totaled '04 Midnight was hauled off by the salvage company yesterday and this afternoon I picked up my new'07 blue/black RSV from the dealer. It sure felt different on the 25 mile ride home. The engine is quieter, not the pipes, but the mechanical engine noise, even at idle. Absolutely no whine from the clutch basket. I had the "I" basket on the '04 and this one is quieter. The transmission seemed to shift a bit smoother. This evening I put the handlebar risers and highway pegs on and now it feels right. Tomorrow I'll work on getting all of my electrical accessories installed and should be ready nice long day ride by Sunday. Oh, and I know the rules, pics will follow tomorrow. Dennis
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I was googling something else and came accross this article. I don't know anything about AIS, but with everyone talking about the RSV chirping, I thought this might be interesting... AIS, What's chirping? Written by StarMyram, on 06-22-2006 19:16 I used to have an 04 V-Star 650 Classic and it made a funny noise while coasting on highway and cruising in town at low rpm. Just got a brand new 05 Roadstar Silverado ...Ya know, this bike is beautiful, torquey, and a nice low "bump,bump,bump" exhaust tone at low rpm. But for crying out loud, WHAT is this annoying chirpy sound?! This bike has it even worse than the V-star! Well, the other night I was fumbling around the running engine with my fingers and eneded up with my finger in the air intake tube hanging down off the AIS pump. The chirping stopped! HA! Found thee source of the noise! Did some research as to where these little pipes went to and fro on the AIS. I decided I could do without the peice of crap on my bike. (don't tell Kyoto! ) I got out my tools and removed the AIS pump and it's filter and all the brackets. Removed the vaccuum pulse line from the intake manifold and put a cap on the tee. I left the chrome tubes attatched to the heads, I used the one left over hose (pushed a 1" long wooden dowel into the hose to seal it off to avoid exhaust gas travelling from one cylinder port to the other through the chrome lines and burning up the hose) and installed the hose to each chrome line. After admiring the new clean, uncluttered look of the front of the engine without AIS, I started the engine and admired the clean V-twin engine sound, with a nice clean exhaust tone with no "fluffing" from the tailpipes (the way it should be.) I took the bike for a ride and Voila! No more chirping sound! Yeah Baby! I understand Californians have emmission laws and lots more tubing on the bikes for charcoal canisters and such so I don't know about thse bikes. Removal of the AIS system is not necessary for performance gains since the AIS does not rob power or performance. But it's just plain ugly to look at, and it annoyed me to no end because of the crappy sound it adds to the engine. Here in Alberta, I can get rid of it without some emmissions police hassling me too. I plan to make steel plates to cover the ports in the heads and remove the chrome tubes completely when I get time this coming winter.
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There's been some discussion lately about headset noise, but allow me to tell my particular flavor of it and see if y'all can help. I just installed headsets and used them for the first time. Generally I am please, as the sound quality thru the system and the J&M headsets is very good, but there's some engine noise that I wish wasn't there. I've not noticed the same noise in the speakers. Here are some characteristics of my noise: - clicky-staticy, not whine. Does this indicate ignition, as opposed to alternator/power? - related to engine RPM. - NOT related to radio or intercom volume setting - if either is on and engine running, the noise is there. Does this mean the interference is happening downstream of the amp? - related to front-and-rear individual volume. attenuators...the ones on the handlebars and near the passenger plug-in. Turning these down from MAX definitely cuts the noise down. - same in front or rear jack (assuming the above mentioned attenuators are set the same). Interference happening somewhere between power amp and the front/rear split? Any likely places? Where is that split? My ignition is stock. Wires appear original; I haven't tested their resistance but I have checked the condition of the resistors in the caps which appear normal. Plugs are resistor type. I have another comment on the individual attenuators. They don't just cut volume, they also alter the sound quality negatively when turned down. The best way I can describe it is that the stereo effect seems to gradually go away as you approach the MIN setting. So, turning the attenuators down and the amp volume up minimizes the engine noise, but also reduces sound quality Anybody experienced this? Thanks, Jeremy -
I switched to a full synthetic oil with my last oil change. Would it do any harm to the engine if I decided to switch back to regular oil?
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This post ties in with my other about my 07 RSV. HOW MUCH NOISE IS NORMAL FROM THESE BIKES? I am talking about engine and drive train only.
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I just bought a lift (ATV and motorcycle lift) for raising my wife's 2005 1100 v-star up so I can do oil changes and other maintenance. Before I do the first lift,aside from ensuring it doesn't fall off, is there any other info I would need such as putting blocks on the lift arms so that the arms don't hit the engine? It looks like at least one arm would be under part of the engine which sticks out under the frame rails. Thanks
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I've been working on my engine for the last few months and it looks really nice now. However, since I have the engine out of the frame there are a lot of other things I have been doing as well. Now before I put the engine back in, I decided to install zerk fittings in the shock linkage of this '89 Venture Royale. The linkage design was changed between for the '88 model year. There are two shafts, one joins the front linkage to the rear linkage, the second joins the shock to the front linkage. It took a lot of force to drive the first shaft out and it looks like it had never been lubed. rust pits in the shaft, dust seals disintigrating, etc. Then I tried to remove shaft 2. I used the bolt that threads into it , loosened it about 1/4 inch and used a drift punch against tthe head with a 16 oz. hammer. No movement. I soaked it with WD-40 and bought a 10X100 bolt (twice as long as the original), threaded it fully into the end of shaft 2 and hit it as hard as I could with a 24 oz. hammer about 30 times:starz:. It moved enough to get a feeler gauge under the head of the shaft. I think I'm going to have to remove the monoshock and use a hydraulic press to remove this shaft. In case there are other problems, does anyone know if the 83-87 version of the linkage will work on the 88-93s? I can get a complete linkage addembly from PinWall for about $40 plus shipping and I think I will just to get the shaft and bushings. The eight bushings run about between $14 and $18 each and the shafts are $21 each from MRCycles. Any advise on how to get the shaft out would be appreciated since I don't have a hydraulic press. I can't get to the front end of the linkage while it is still on the shock. I'll get pictures of the engine up soon, with the repaired paint and polished side cases!
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Thought i'd post a few for the folks that ain't ever seen one torn down. These are the few i thought to take during my frame change. Can you find the Ninja Turtle on a Motorcycle??? Picts are as follows... Putting in the engine. we used a come-a-long suspended from a tree. Rope around the heads. Putting in the engine, a big helper there. jake efter getting out of the hospital, on the way to NAS P-Cola (not sure how i got it in here) Upper triple tree clamp and hardware (blury) Uppre clamp removed. Naked frame. Broken frame from the top (cant tell much) Naked frame. Two naked frames. Rear section. A mess. Right side swing arm pin. Swing arm pin goes here. Another one. Left side swing arm pin. Swing arm removed.(shock still in place) Swing arm inspection plug. Rear shock. Frame reinforced by Woodys Welding Service. (The left side (pict left) is almost two low to get to the exhaust clamp) The Tropical storm moves in. O-ring (red is original) Another shot. Oil line Someone asked about changing rod bearings with the engine in frame. This is a shot from the oil pan. another one another one More crap from the oil strainer(gasket, silacone, chewed up plastic and stuff) Another one (i found the chewed up o-ring and the steel ball in this mess) Red-neck engine lift. Trying to figure out what to do with a broken frame (blurry)
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Long ago, before the big crash of '06, I had posted a picture of the Yamaha engine. It was a cool pic that showed the engine at an angle with exhausts and etc. intact. I think I originally got it from the Yamaha site but it's not there now and I can't find it. Did anybody happen to keep a copy?
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I've been looking at pics of '99 & up RSV's. I notice that as of 2004, the clean, sparkling, bright, "polished" aluminum / silver appearance of the engine has been replaced with a lot of "black" and it appears to have less chrome/polished aluminum. In other words, it sure doesn't look as nice (IMO). Anyone have comments about this? Why did Yamaha change this? was it to keep the cost down or? ... personally, I prefer the "shiny" look of the 2003 and prior years. What all parts got the "axe"?
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Got about 60k miles on the bike, a vague knock started developing. Wishful thinking it could be exhaust gaskets, sucked a little atf & confirmed the leak. After replacing the gaskets on the # 1 & 3 cyl, engine became quieter but the dreaded knock remained. The knock initially seemed to be coming from either the #3 cyl or clutch basket area. Also noticed the idle became a little rough and a fine vibration can be felt on the right footpeg. Checked carb synch and they were. Pulling the clutch in didnt change the noise. Ultimately I shorted out the cylinders and confirmed the knock came from the #3 cylinder. Rod knock. I'm wondering if it is possible to replace the bearing without the pulling the engine out of the bike? How much incidental parts are involved asidede from the gaskets and bearings? Or are we talking about a complete A-Z rebuild Any input would be appreciated.
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My 86 Venture Royale has been tuned up and the dealer balanced the carbs. It seems to accelerate very well but dies off quickly as it approaches 90 mph. The maximum speed is about 95 mph. I ran cleaner through the engine which improved the acceleration but still no top end. Can defective carburetor diaphragms allow the bike to run smoothly, accelerate well but have no top end? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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I had my 1st service done a few hundred miles ago. we went up to PA. over the weekend. About half way up there i started hearing what sounded like a whining gear grinding sound. It only seems to happen in 5th gear, when throttle on but not under a load (like pulling a hill). when coming down a hill if its coasting theres no noiose unless you ease on the throtle slightly. Is this the norm for the engine whine i have been reading about? I hadd all the oils changed at 600 miles and everything is synth.It only happens after the engine is warmed up.
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I figured this would be the best place to post this. I have access to an engine from and '83 VR. HOw much trouble would it be to replace the engine from an '86 VR with one from an '83? My bike has 115,000 miles and the '83 has only 24,000. If possible I would like to swap these engines. I know someone has done this, need to know what is involved. Chuck
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We just sold our first generation Venture and are looking at the 2nd gen. My wife's question is "how much heat is generated on the legs with the engine exposed (on the newer bikes)?" TIA Bob & Lisa Salt Lake City, Ut
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Contaminated engine coolant
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Shortly after I got to work on Wednesday, I got a call from another rider that there was a puddle under my 1st Gen Venture. I wasn't able to check it out until about an hour later... no puddle. Just to be sure I pulled the radiator cap and found a nasty light gray scum about the consistency of toothpaste coating the inside of the radiator and cap! Well I know it is an oil leak into the cooling system... the short hose that connects to the radiator near the cap failed from the oil contamination. I'm currently working to get the goo cleaned up (including a Water pump seal kit and thermostat since I had it apart). I'll replace the hoses since they show signs of bulging now. I'm worried that it may be a head gasket since there doesn't seem to be any coolant in the oil. I wasn't ready to dig that deep into the engine. Does anyone have other suggestions for me to check before I pull the heads? Also, can I pull the heads without pulling the engine? -
I put the commanders on the bike, Is this my bike what a difference. I got some foam grips off Ebay one is missing the Venture logo end cap dose any one have one from and old pair they changed out, let me know she would look better with both chrome end caps. I put engine Gard's on the bike to she is slowly coming back to life. Thanks, Dale
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As I noted in an earlier post, I have had a rattle in the engine when it is tilted over on the side stand. I have come to the conclusion that is gear related because if I tilt the bike over and then put it in gear, the rattle stops. Therefore I did a tear down on my 86 1300 engine and I think I will use the entire gearset out of it. I would just rebuild the engine, but there are some pretty deep pitting in the cylinder bores on a couple of cylinders, so I guess I will stay with my 1200 engine. A concern I have switching out the gearsets is there are shims on the side of the bearing that is at the 90 degree set of gears that go out the rear of the engine. Actually there are shims near where the u joint is and also shims on the inside of the bearing where the little gear cover is. I know that these shims are what set the engagement at that 90 degree angle. I have not compared the shims from my 1200 engine because I have not got it out yet. I guess I could put it together and see how much free play that I have. I am wondering if this has anything to do with the thrust washer being worn out again, but I have yet to have any skipping during acceleration or pulling hard in 2nd gear since I did the gear undercut about 60,000 miles ago. I have had it skip a couple of times during high rpm 2nd gear deceleration. This was also with pulling a 450 pound camper up and down mountains. For those of you that are not aware, I did not replace the thrust washer with the newer, harder and thicker replacement because I did not know the new one had been upgraded. This was about eight years ago or more. I just flipped it over. It has so far given me 50% more miles than the original set up did. So, is there anyone out there that has done an entire gear change out and had gear mesh concerns? Good or bad, I would like to hear from you. I need to get this all done soon because I want to do it before I go to Vogal and that is coming up fast. Muffinman, I think you are right in your earlier comments. Is there anything in particular that I need to look for? RandyA -
OK, finally got out and started messin' with the 87 over the weekend. With all the other stuff I had to do before FtCollions I hadn't had a chance to work on it, and it's been sitting for more than 2 months without firing it up. Choked the 'H' out of it, turned the key on, pushed the start button, and it fired almost imediately, and the R's went right up to 3grand. Cool!! Now here's the kicker. Every time I blipped the throttle the motor wanted to die. OK, so I thought the loose air cleaner box which I hadn't mounted since the last time I played with it was causing the problem. Shut it off and mounted the box. Even connected the *&^%% breather hose. Fired it up again. Blip the throttle. Same thing?? It would idle like a champ at high rpm's, but twist the grip and deadsville. I finally played with the throttle and by blipping it in short bursts I could get the engine to rev up to about 5 grand, but that was it. Also when I took the choke completely off the engine died..... Anyone have any ideas?? All feedback welcome at this point..... Fuel filter clogged maybe?? Whatcha think... BTW it's had two cans of Sea Foam thru it....
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