lshafer
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Everything posted by lshafer
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Mine pulled left just like others have said with the OEM Brickstones. I changed to E3's this spring, same result. I doubt it has anything to do with the tires. I also get the pull in either lane no matter the crown. Whatever it is, I'm guessing it's normal as long as it's not excessive. Therefore, I've decided to do the logical thing... keep at least 1 hand on the bars!!!
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Dunlop Elite 3's. That's my suggestion. They're absolutely fantastic. Especially when compared to the factory Bridgestones you probably had. Big difference in road noise and bike handling. And you don't have to worry about sidewall cracking issues like many running the Avons have had. IMHO.
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Thank to everyone for chiming in with thoughts. I was on a 500+ mile ride this weekend with my father-in-law who has a triked GW and a buddy who has a Suzuki Boulavard and had guys coming up to me asking about my RSTD. That's good feeling. It's a sharp bike when placed up against most other brands.
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I just returned home from a 500+ mile trip through northern WI and MN. I mostly ran around 60MPH and ended up averaging about 43-44. That was with me and the wife on the bike. She's a light-weight but I'm not.
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Here's a question to everyone I've been trying to reason out in my head for quite some time... When you compare the RSTD or RSV 1300's to other types of bikes with v-twins that are said to have 1300 or higher cc's, what are we really comparing. I understand what 1300 means, just like I understand what 1700 means - but when you include the fact that the RSTD's and RSV's are 4 cylinder engines, what difference does that make? Should I feel uncomfortable talking about the power of my bike with a buddy who has a 1700cc or with another friend that has a 96ci? Are we talking about tourqe or horsepower or both or what? I would really like to have some ammunition in my back pocket so I can fire back at them when they say my bike is ONLY 1300cc's. My RSTD has their bikes beat on comfort but what about performance. What are everyones thoughts? I hope my question makes sense.
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I think you may have been correct about the air bubble and I believe it worked itself back to where it should have been. I put about 150 miles on the bike today and before I got back home everything is back to normal. I stopped at my local dealer and had them lube the throttle cables for me and now that's back to normal too. They even did it at no charge. I've ended up with another issue though. The new bars and grips have cured my tingling fingers issue but have created a pain in my lower back. I think the reason for it is that I'm sitting up more straight on the bike now and up against the back rest so when I hit bumps that jolt travels up though my tailbone and spine. Before I was slightly hunched over because I had to reach the handlebars causing my spine to act a little like a spring when I'd hit a bump. I'm not sure if that theory makes any sense but it's all I've come up with so far. I'm going to try adjusting my backrest a little and if that doesn't work I might tilt the bars up a smidge. Maybe so they raise about an inch at the grips and see what that does. Anyway, it looks really nice!!! I'll say that for sure... -
I don't have the end weights on quite yet but when I put the grips on they were already fully assembled with the factory end caps. I never touched the screws in the end of the throttle grip. I certainly understand what you're saying. It makes perfect sense but I'm sure that's not my issue. Before connecting the trottle cable the grip, the grip was smooth as could be. I'm worried that the cable is bent wrong or that it needs a lube job. If it's bent wrong I don't know where because I traced the whole thing and it looks smooth as a babies butt. I'm sooo confused by it. :confused24:
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Below is the link for the bars. The model number for our bikes is 650-08783. The part actually comes from Riders Needs out of Chicago, IL I believe when ordered through Amazon. It worked out well for me. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=650-08783&x=15&y=17 The Kuryakyn ISO grips and Bullet end weights I just found on Kuryakyn's web site and called my local dealer. Total charge on the grips and ends was $106. As far as bar positioning up and down, that's really up to you. You can position them where you want for hight when you install them. The pullback is awesome. I used to ride with my arms almost fully extened and almost locked at the elbows - in fact, I had to slouch slightly just to avoid locking my elbows. Now, I sit like I should and can relax my arms, nicely bent at the elbow. VERY, VERY, VERY comfortable. If I can be of any more help please let me know. Good luck.
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About 10 days ago I posted about tingling fingers and my plan to upgrade to Flanders bars and Kuryakyn ISO grips. Well, I've since completed that upgrade with the help of Usnmustang's wonderful pictoral write-up/how to. (Very informative and easy to follow - THANK YOU usnmustang, where ever you are .) Anyway, I've posted some pics for everyone to see the before and after. I think it looks really nice. I didn't put the stock weights back on because I'm not too good at fabrication but I did order the Kuryaky Bullet end weights to complete the look and get it back to real close. I didn't notice any additional vibration without the weight on (none at all as a matter of fact - VERY smooth). Like I said though, I'll put the new ends on if for no other reason than for a place to rest my hand when the cruise is on. You'll see in the pictures I still need to do something with the wiring. I'll probably get some black zip-ties which I think I can make look good. (I'm open to suggestions here so if anyone has a better idea, I'm all ears...) Here are the two questions I have after the install: 1. My new throttle grip doesn't want to snap back like it should. I've adjusted the cables every way I can think of (tighten, loosen and everywhere in between) and the throttle seems to move smoothly enough but I have to manually move it back from about 1/8 throttle. If I open it up to about 1/4 throttle or above it goes back to about 1/8. I hope that makes sense... What's everyones experience with this? Can I lube something to make it better and if so, what type of lube should I use? Other thoughts? 2. My other problem is the clutch. Keep in mind all I did was remove the housing from the stock bar, let it dangle and then put it back on. I didn't mess with it other than that. Now, the clutch seems a) just a little harder to pull and b) when I let it out it catches sooner. I used to get about 1 inch from the bar with the clutch lever before it caught but now it's more like 3/8 - 1/2 inch. Is there any way to adjust that? I guess I can't think of any other way to explain those two problems so I'm looking for anyone that may have suggestions. Hopefully it all makes sense. I'm going on a long ride next weekend and want to make sure it's tip-top by then. Please give me your thoughts. Hope everyone like the pics. Les
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Knee wind deflectors
lshafer replied to AD5ME's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I purchased a set from him a couple of months ago and they are very functional. They look nice and deflect the wind during those cold mornings on the way to work. They also keep my knees from getting wet when it's foggy or really damp outside. Great investment. I'd recommend them to anyone. The best part is they're really easy to take off when it's really hot. -
Thanks for the replies everyone. My new bars are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow so I'm going to get started on them Saturday I think. I look forward to the experience. Hopefully I don't mess anything up. I'll be sure to post pics of the before and after when done.
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...you'll need to drill a bit. If you bolt them on in the holes as shown it will look like they raise up in the back and the angle of the rails won't match the body line of your saddlebag. Also, the rail will just about (or in some cases will) come in contact with your turn signals. The best way to work it is to remove the saddleback, put the new rail in position and clamp it on with the bolt hole about 1/2 inch below where you would think and then put the saddelbag back on to eyeball it. You may have to repeat the process a couple of times to get it right. Measure twice, drill once. Repeat the process for the other side and there you have it. Mine look great and it only took about an hour from start to finish. There's a thread on here somewhere detailing what I just tried to explain above but I'll be darned if I can find it. Who knows what I'm doing wrong. Anyway, I should note I have aftermarket saddlebag rails on my bike which I believe many folks have. I don't know about how the OEM ones look. You should be able to pick the aftermarket ones up from Ebay for about $80. I hope this helps some. Good luck.
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OK. There it is. Elmicko, thanks for the offer to play second string and I'm sorry for any confusion I caused. Bubber - I'll let you know when I get the old bars off and the new ones on. Will you be interested in the stock grips and end weights too?
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I'm not really sure what the proper protocol is on something like this but I'd like to apologize. I wasn't thinking yesterday when I posted to EVERYONE that I would have bars from my RSTD available instead of just PM'ing Bubber. He started the thread and I should have brought it to him first. It's not like me to be such an idiot with these types of things so I just wanted to let everyone know I didn't mean to be so dumb. Elmicko PM'ed me shortly after I posted and at this point has first dibbs but Bubber is on deck. I really do feel terrible but I need to be fair to elmicko now. Please don't hold my momentary loss of mental ability against me...
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Flanders Bars - $127 (Amazon) Kuryaky ISO Grips/End Weights - $104 (Hauck Power Sports - Rice Lake, WI) Total - $231.00 (+ a little shipping from Amazon) I get a little extra discount with Hauck because I bought a bike from them (and I'm really good at making sure they remember that!!). I will certainly post some pics. I want people to see the before and after. I really hope it turns out as wonderful as I think it will. I should get everything this week sometime so I hope to start the install by next weekend. to me.
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If anyone is interested and would give me a couple of weeks I just may have RSTD bars, stock grips and end wights that I'd be willing to part with. I just ordered Flanders bars, Kuryakyn ISO grips and Kury/Barons Bullet End Weights for my 06 RSTD Midnight. Provided I have no big issues with vibration from the aftermarket end weights there would be no reason for me to hang on to the stock ones. I would put them back on but I'm not a skilled fabricator. Anyway, just a thought. I may be interested in trade as well if anyone has any safety chrome or usefull goodies to part with. PM me with thoughts. **Note - I'm doing the install of the new equipment myself so I'm estimating on the 'couple of weeks'.**
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First off, I'm sorry for the novel. I'll try to stay on point so nobody has to read my rambling. I get tingly fingers in my right hand when I ride. I'll start by explaining my position when riding. I have all original equipment on my 06 RSTD as far as handlebars and grips are concerned. I have a Throttle Rocker installed. When I ride, my arms have a VERY slight bend at the elbow. I do have a driver backrest but I don't feel I use it to it's full potential because I feel like I have to stretch to reach the handlebars. Here's what I've done... I just ordered a set of Flanders bars (yes, I ordered the correct one for the RSTD) and also Kuryakyn ISO grips with Kuryakyn Bullet End Weights. My thinking is that I am experiencing problems from stretching too far to reach the bars which is why I ordered the Flanders bars. I figured the ISO grips would be a little nicer on the hands than the narrower, stock grips. The end weights I ordered mainly because I don't have the tools (or the machanical ability) to fabricate my stock ends to work with both the ISO grips and the Flanders bars (although I know there are some that have done it with no issues). I haven't installed any of this stuff yet but I'll certainly let everone know when I do. This is where I get concerned... Tonight I rode about 60 miles after work (it's a nice day in Mid-West Wisconsin so I thought a little trip around the block was called for) SORRY... STARTING TO RAMBLE!! Back on point - as I was riding a thought crossed my mind. What if it's my Throttle Rocker that is causing my problems? Has anyone else ever had problems with the Throttle Rocker? I'm interested in everyones feedback on that and also any input you may have to reassure me that changing out my handlebars and grips is worth doing and something a mildly mechanical person like myself can accomplish. **Note - I did plan to just relocate the cables with the new bars. I didn't purchase the SS upgrade.** I read A LOT of posts about the bars and I think I can, I think I can, I think I can... Please provide any feedback you think my help/reassure me. Thanks all, Les
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I just PM'd you. I may be interested in your top rails. Glad you're OK and I hope you like your new bike.
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Flanders is a great bar, I'm sure. I'm really wondering if the Longhorn is eve worth a look. It runs about $96 from my local Yamaha shop. I'm hoping someone out there has them installed to give me a little feedback. I've attached a picture of them for reference. Not sure if it'll help... [ATTACH]57838[/ATTACH]
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Does anyone have any experience with the Yamaha OEM Longhorn handlebars? I've been looking at them and wondered just how different they are from the stock bars. With the stock bars I kind of feel like I'm reaching for the grips. I'd like to bring them back a little and maybe in a touch so my shoulders are bit more relaxed. I know there's a lot of talk about Flanders bars out there but I was wondering about the Longhorns too, which nobody seems to talk much about. Also, I have a 2006 RSTD. If I were to go with Flanders, what part number would I need? Thanks in advance for all the replies. My God I love this site.
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I've been running E3s for about 1000 miles after replacing the Bridgestones after only 6000 miles. The E3s are great. They handle like a dream and seem to grip really nice. I don't ride in the rain so I haven't tested them on wet roads much. I fail to understand why anyone would want to put Avons on with all the problems with side walls cracking. Especially when theres a great option out there in the E3s. Just my thought. Not trying to start a war.
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I normally run 91 octane or higher with no ethenol through my 06 RSTD but my last tank I had no choice but to run 87 octane with 10% ethenol. Boy, could I tell the difference. I was never so happy than to put some miles on the bike to get rid of it. Running the normal stuff again and it's wonderful. BIG difference. I'll do whatever is reasonable to avoid ethenol. Just my opionion... for what it's worth.
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I"ve been looking for this type of thing. I have a seat pad I purchased at Wally World but have always wanted to try this out. Thanks for the info captainjoe.
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Can someone post a link to it from Walmart.com so we all know for sure which one is being talked about. If it's the one I'm thinking of I've had it for about a year and it's great.