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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    The point dot is the lightest point on a tire (most brands have them, except Avon), and it is usually positioned at the valve stem - the assumption here is that the valve stem will be the heaviest point on an otherwise perfectly balanced wheel. A slightly better practice is to check the static balance on your rim BEFORE you mount the tire, then position the dot at the heaviest point of your wheel, wherever that might be. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    The splines to which I refer are the ones that mate the rear wheel to the splines in the ring gear in the final drive. When you have the wheel off and lay it on the ground with the brake disc down, the splines are looking you in the eye. The drive pins to which I refer are under those splines you see on the wheel, inserted into six rubber bushings. Yamaha's January 2006 technical bulletin M05-057 calls this sub-assembly that has the drive splines on top and the pins below the "clutch hub", and the pins are called both "clutch pins" and "drive pins". You remove the clutch hub by taking off the large circlip and prying up on the sides of the hub. It tends to come out a bit hard because of the rust that forms on the pins. I do not know how many miles are on your bike or the last time the drive shaft was inspected and greased, but I almost never remove it. Some people here think it needs to be done with every tire, but I do not agree with them. I checked mine the first time at 80,000 miles, and it was not worn at all or severely lacking in grease. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    You may have missed the whole point of the suggestion. Since this is such a common size for spark plugs, most established auto repair shops probably already have the necessary kit to do the repair, and it has long since been paid for. Their only actual cost is the cost of one insert - probably $1.50 or so. You should check with various auto repair shops to see if they can do the job on the cheap, maybe as just a special favor for a nice bottle of booze or somethin'? Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I never even thought about what size he said he needed, so didn't realize it was a common spark plug thread. But of course you are right, and that should make it much easier for heim to get this fixed. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Although I am not a big fan of mixing grease types, you can probably get by with either of those on the drive splines and drive pins. But I'd prefer to use a lithium base grease with 3-5% molly on those applications. As for brake pads, you do NOT want to waste your money on stock Yamahaha pads on the rear. Make sure you get EBC HH pads - most decent dealers will stock them. For the rear you need EBC 123HH pads. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    I cannot say for sure about the specific size you need. but Helicoil sets are generally a little hard to find, and especially metric ones. Specialty businesses that focus specifically on nuts and bolts will always be the best chance of finding this, but if you are just looking to try and pick something up in towns you ride through, look for NAPA auto parts stores. In my local area, they are the only one that had any metric sets at all. Goose
  7. V7Goose

    tongue weight

    V7Goose replied to Monty's topic in Trailer Talk

    I personally would never hang that much weight off the tail end of that bumper and very small lower subframe. Just my opinion, but I have a hitch on my RSV and I occasionally pull a trailer or use a cooler rack on the hitch, and I would not even put 40 lbs on the hitch. I prefer to keep that weight that far back down to between 20 and 30 lbs. I have put 40 on there before, but when the bike is fully loaded and that much weight is hanging off the tail, it wags the bike pretty good when you hit bumps in the sweepers. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    I cannot say what your problem is, but there are a number of possibilities. Three are also a number of posts in this thread that sound like paid shills for one vendor or another, so I'd be a little cautious of just accepting anything your read (even from me!). Your problem is made more difficult by the fact that several components have been replaced with "unknown" aftermarket parts. Certainly either your stator or the reg/rec unit could be bad, although having the voltage go low then getting good again is not usually the way an electronic part fails. This is more likely a bad wire connection somewhere. The plugs on the reg/rec unit are a weak point, and it is quite common for them to overheat and begin to melt. I'd check that first, including how well the wires are crimped. Next I'd go to the plug where the stator connects and check for the same thing. While you have the unit off, make sure the connection points where it grounds to the frame are clean. If those both seem OK, then I'd look at the frame and engine grounds along with the battery connections and the main power plug under the cover just rear of the primary fuse box. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Yes, your statement does not disagree with me at all. We all understand that a closed, or even partially closed thermostat causes a big difference in fluid flow. But my comment specifically compared it to a wide open thermostat. While I have never measured the actual flow difference, it is my belief that at the low flow pressure generated by a "non-positive displacement" pump, there is actually a fairly small difference in GPM between a fully open thermostat or no thermostat at all. To me, however, the flow rate with or without a thermostat is simply an interesting academic point to debate since there is absolutely no positive benefit to be gained by actually removing it! That's why I am just sticking with my opinion here instead of actually doing the research needed to prove or disprove my point. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    This is not an accurate representation of heat transfer. It is never moving too fast to pick up heat, but if the duration of contact is short, it only picks up a little heat - the longer the contact, the more heat. Think of a hot griddle as the hot water in your radiator. The entire surface is equally hot,a nd if you were to just briefly tap it with one finger, it would be like your potato - you might feel a slight warmth, but nothing real hot. Now swing your arm so that your finger slides very rapidly from one side of the griddle to the other - each individual point of contact in that arc is probably even briefer than the quick tap you tried first, but your finger remains in contact for the entire distance. I'm pretty darn certain you will be yelping before your finger gets to the other side! For heat transfer, it is the DURATION of the contact (along with the relative temperature difference), not the speed of the motion that affects how much heat you pick up. Since the radiator is in contact with the hot coolant 100% of the time, it is transferring the maximum heat possible (based on the relative temperature differences) 100% of the time. The reason a fan makes it cool more is because the air flow is moving the heat away from the radiating surface, thereby reducing the relative temperature on one side. Your term is slightly off, but the concept is mostly correct. This is exactly why I mentioned cavitation in the absence of air. The same priciple applies to a boat propeller. If the propeller blades break the surface of the water, they pick up lots of air from the splashing, thus causing interruption to the smooth flow around the blades at even low speeds. But if the propeller is completely submerged, it must turn MUCH faster before the friction and flow currents around the blades begin to form the vacuum that is the source of cavitation (they form their own bubbles directly from the water). If your cooling system is properly filled and has a functioning overflow tank, there should be no air inside, thus there is no splashing and air bubbles to interfere with the heat transfer. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    You are absolutely correct about the concept of cavitation and how it would affect the cooling capacity. The unknown part for me is if cavitation would actually happen inside a radiator. I do not believe so. Since the speed of the water pump does not change, there is actually a fairly small difference in water flow through the area where the thermostat is mounted if it is removed (compared to a wide-open thermostat, of course). I believe cavitation is a relatively high-speed phenomenon in a completely submerged environment (no air), and I doubt seriously it would actually occur in a radiator. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Don is exactly correct - the engine must operate within a specific design range for lowest pollution, best fuel economy, and longest life. The thermostat lets it heat up to that range the fastest, then keeps it in that range under different outside conditions. The engine life issue is because all metals expand at different rates and by different amounts. When the engine is designed, they have to select clearances between the various parts that will allow it to run when started cold, keep running when one metal, such as an aluminum piston, expands faster than the metal it is near (such as a steel cylinder wall), and still maintain all the acceptable clearances after all metals have completely heated and expanded to their maximum size. All that changing of metal sizes and clearances is why water cooled engines have closer tolerances and longer life than air cooled engines. But ONLY if they have a properly operating thermostat and cooling system! Goose
  13. V7Goose
    I am not an expert in this area, but personally, I think the idea that too much water flow through the radiator can cause an engine to overheat is nothing but a fallacy. I have seen it repeated in many places, but it defies logic. I think it is nothig more than a bad rumor that people pick up and spread like any other rumor. The engine cooling system is a closed system with heat being added by the combustion on one side and being removed by the radiator on the other. If the two sides are balanced, meaning the radiator is capable of dissipating the same amount of heat that is made by the engine at some minimum gallons per minute (GPM) flow of coolant, then Any greater flow of coolant must work at least equally as well under the same external conditions. Yes, it is true that a fixed volume of water flowing faster through the radiator cannot loose as much heat in one pass since it does not spend as much time in the cooling side of the system, but that argument has almost nothing to do with the actual thermodynamics of the engine cooling. What we are really interested in is the amount of heat the radiator can dissipate over a fixed period of TIME, and this can only get BETTER with faster water flow, not worse. Heat is transferred from the coolant to the air by how much surface area of the radiator is available and how much difference there is in the temperature on each side of that surface. Since neither the surface area nor the air flow changes if the thermostat is removed, then the amount of total heat that is dissipated over one minute must be at least equal to or greater than the amount of heat that is dissipated with a lower flow rate. Think about it this way - the radiator does nothing more than transfer heat from one side to the other until the temperature is equal on both sides. If you INCREASE THE AIR FLOW over the cooling fins you carry away more heat each minute (that is why you have a fan), but only to the extent that there is enough heat being generated on the hot side of the system (and that is why your fan shuts off). If you increase the air flow too much, you can remove more heat than the system can produce over the same period of time (and THAT is why you have a thermostat). Sooooo, if increasing the air flow over one side of the radiator surface cools the fluid on the other side faster, then the reverse must also be true - increasing the water flow over the cooling fins MUST have an equally dramatic affect on the heat transfer, meaning it heass the air faster and, therefore, cools the fluid. But the bottom line is still this: the cooling system is designed to work properly with your motor with the thermostat and all the other pieces in place and working properly. If you remove any of those pieces, your engine suffers. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    I understand your personal preferences, but they sure ain't mine. I have been using SilverStar ULTRAs for years in all my vehicles, have 80,000+ miles on the original SilverStar Ultara in my 05 RSV, and I have NEVER had one fail yet. Not in the RSV or any other vehicle. Love the fantastic light output. I'll keep using them and recommending them to friends. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    It is never a good idea to take the thermostat out. First of all, taking a good thermostat out cannot help your bike run cooler unless the radiator is already heavily plugged, and even then, it probably won't help at all. Here is why: The engine and cooling system were designed to always keep the temperature in the correct range. I know on a 2nd gen, the engine actually runs about 10 degrees cooler when the outside temperatures are above 90 than it does when it is in the 70s - proof that the cooling system is not only capable of keeping the engine cool in all conditions, but actively making adjustments based on those conditions. I assume the 1st gens cool just as well if there is not something wrong. So, if the system with the thermostat in place works fine, what can happen if you remove it? First, the engine will not warm up to the proper operating temperature near as fast, even on hot days. This both increases the pollution and adds wear to the internal engine parts. Second, in many conditions, the engine will NEVER reach proper operating temperature without the thermostat resulting in continuing pollution and excess internal engine wear. It is true that even a fully open thermostat still provides some restriction to the maximum flow of coolant, but if the engine is not cooling properly with it in there (assuming the thermostat is operating correctly), it almost certainly will not cool any better with it removed. The most likely reason an engine will not cool properly is a dirty and plugged radiator, which restricts the coolant flowing through it. Removing the thermostat to allow the coolant to flow faster won't help at all if the radiator is what is causing it to not flow. There are a few cases where only some of the passages are plugged, and increasing the coolant flow through the others might help a bit, but even if it does, you are simply on borrowed time before the engine is destroyed. As with other problems that a bike might have, it is always better to actually find what is wrong and fix it than look for a way to hide the problem. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    To a great extent, that is completely normal. Two of those drain tubes connect to the air plenums above the carbs where the crankcase breather also vents. Over time, some of those oil fumes collect on the inside walls of the plenums and work their way down to the drain hoses. During long high-speed runs, there is a high amount of crankcase "breathing" going on, so a bit more oil residue from those tubes is not surprising. When I'm on the highway for several days, the tip of my kick stand always gets a bit grodey from the same thing. If your oil level is above the sight window, this problem will be much worse because the extra splashing in the engine produces a lot more oil particles in the breather. Another thing to understand is that those drain hoses have check valves in them so they cannot suck dirty air, and those keep all the oil film in the hoses from completely draining. This simply means the drips can continue (slowly) for quite some time, even after the cause for the excess oil in the breather is fixed. On a related note - the reason the #1 carburetor is always nasty and grodey with dirty oil film is because those air plenum darins were designed by a fool. When the bike is on the side stand, the drain is NOT the lowest point on the plenum! So after the bike is parked, any residual oil collected on the inside walls of the plenum works its way down and pools around the top of the #1 carburetor instead of going out the drain, and it eventually works its way out under that rubber boot and makes a mess of things. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    You should never connect more than one device to the aux input at the same time, even with a splitter installed to make two jacks available. That is a typical problem. It is also not uncommon to actually smoke the audio output in one system when you just plug them together like that. The problem is that the audio amps and jacks are not designed to ever be connected to a different device, so sometimes the amp output is effectively pumped straight into the ground of the other device. When both devices are powered from the bike's 12V system, that creates a ground loop back to the first device, and THAT'S when the smoke starts. There are various devices you can buy or make that solve this problem, but few are available specifically for a motorcycle. I have not personally used this device, but either one or two of them in your splitter circuit would probably solve your problem: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127SNI1...r.html?tp=2653 Here is one specific for a bike, but it is expensive - over $100: http://www.cellset.com/AuxSwitchSet2.html Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Any Royal Star engine made after 1999 should be identical. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    The rear plugs can be accessed without taking anything off, but to remove the front plugs you must remove the tank and the "dogbones" (top engine mounts). Goose
  20. V7Goose
    That is correct. It is also documented in the owner's manual. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Why didn't you care much for the answer? Was it incorrect, incomplete, or maybe it just wasn't what you wanted to hear? I suspect I'm at least one of the ones who gave you the answer you didn't like - maybe the only one - I do not know. I probably insulted you on the subject too, but if I did, it was not intentional - I just know I have a tendency to affect people that way when I just go straight to the facts instead of spending time on the touchy-feely stuff. But I'll give you the answers again, even though you have already seen them and taken part in this discussion last year: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32679&highlight=naphtha In my post in that thread ( #28), I specifically identified the differences based on an examination of the MSDS. In short, camp fuel is naphtha, Sea Foam contains some naptha, but less than 30%. I also noted that the term "naptha" seems to be more a generic reference to a type of solvent than a specific chemical, so naphtha from source A might not be the same stuff as naphtha from source B, similar to the way one container of gasoline is not the same as another. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    As others have already said, it takes quite some time at idle before the engine gets hot enough to kick on the fan. When moving, even in the hottest conditions, it will never come on. The fan is not loud, and many people do not notice it. BUT... I have had several people bring bikes to me for tuning where I have found objects lodged in the fan preventing it from turning. Needless to say, this is a very bad thing if you get caught in a summer traffic jam! There are only two ways to test the fan - either find the wires to the sensor, unplug them, and use a jumper to trigger the fan on, or just fire up the bike and let it idle without any external cooling fan. After something like five or ten minutes, the bike will get hot enough to trigger the fan and you will get a big blast of hot air blowing back along both sides of the engine. I always experience this when syncing the carbs before I get done. Watch your dash and the coolant overflow tube while the bike is running - if the fan does not work, the overheat light will come on and coolant will begin to spurt from from the tube. If you shut it down soon after the light comes on, no damage will be done. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Tom, we all understand completely - sorry for any initial misunderstanding, and we look forward to lots of interesting discussions with you. Welcome to the group! Goose
  24. V7Goose
    My apologies - us old timers remember many clear discussions on these points, but I went looking today and realized we really do not have them posted in an easily findable place. I'll get this changed. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Let's clear the air on something right now - absolutely nothing has ever been deleted on this site just because someone didn't "like" it. The very few rules we have are totally aimed at keeping this site family rated and avoiding arguments. There are two main subjects that are generally forbidden due to the amount of anger and arguments they generate between members and make the general tone of this forum quite unpleasant: religion and politics. There are lots of places on the web where you are free to engage in discussions of this type, but this isn't one of them. Again, I have to stress that this has nothing to do with the content or opinions expressed in a post, ONLY if that post is of a nature to foment arguments. We do have some heated discussions on motorcycle related issues, but because they are directly related to the main purpose of this site, we try to let them continue and just encourage people to avoid personal attacks. But we have said many times that political and religious discussions will not be tolerated at all. If one of the moderators removed your post, you probably received a PM with an explanation - please look for it. Contact me personally if you did not receive one and I will query the other moderators and try to find out what happened. I do know there was a political thread started earlier today about healthcare - I saw it briefly and decided to let it ride a bit longer before deleting it - that was my mistake, as I'm sure it escalated. I was busy and did not have the time to send a personal message on the subject, so I just hoped it would stay nice. REALLY bad on my part; I'm sorry. I do not see it now, so maybe that was your thread? I do not know. Goose
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