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Everything posted by V7Goose
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Well, I do not know of any specific recommendation for an 8,000 mile change interval (other than the 1999-2003 Yamaha Royal Star Ventures!), but I do know of some that have a LONGER change interval. My 2000 Jaguar XJ8 had a 10,000 mile change interval, and my 2007 XJ8 also has a 10,000 mile change interval. Worked out fine on the 2000 - I had 120,000 on that engine before some kid totaled it for us, and then my local mechanic still paid me $8,000 for the engine to put in another Jag. Goose
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2006 RSV fuel leak
V7Goose replied to fw2000's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
If the carbs have never been removed from you bike, the overflow hoses are CROSSED from the factory, so fuel dumping from the left side is from a stuck float on the RIGHT side of the bike. Sticking floats are tough to fix without removing the carbs and opening them up. Tapping on the bowl will sometimes help, as will draining the carbs. If you can get it to shut off with those methods, then a few tanks of Seafoam or 44K may clean things up enough to keep from having to pull them. Goose -
The shop manual was created for the 1999 model year and has never been updated since the original printing; that was when the RSV Owner's Manual also specified 8,000 mile change interval. The Owner's Manual is updated every year, and all of them from 2004 on specify a 4,000 mile change interval. I doesn't make a bit of difference to me what interval someone uses (unless I am considering buying their bike) - I'm just letting y'all know what the books say and why. Goose
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Early RSV owner's manuals did specify 8,000 mile oil change intervals. I do not remember exactly when they changed to 4,000 miles, but I think it might have been 2004. You can download each year owner's manual directly from the Yamahaha web site and check it for yourself. Personally, I'm guessing they had some specific issues show up with the early bikes that caused them to change to the 4,0000 mile intervals, so that is what I would recommend for all Royal Stars. Goose
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You did find exactly what I suspected, you just did not understand. I specifically said the cap resistance should be about 10K each, which is what you got after you cleaned them. You cannot measure the secondary coil winding to ground - these coils have a very odd construction where one end of the secondary coil is tied to the same +12V terminal that the primary coil winding uses (+12V from the ignition fuse and kill switch on the R/B wire). If you did not check the wires for leakage in the dark like I described, you still need to do that. Only now that you have fixed the caps the wires will function better anyway. I suggest that you pop off one of the plugs wires from a rear cylinder when you do the test - that will give you the best chance of seeing any arcing from that wire - if it is good, all of them will probably be good. Goose
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The RSV is basically the same weight as a big HD dresser or a Honda Refrigerator (Wing) - but it looks a lot better than the Honda and is WAY more comfortable than both of them for tall riders. If the RSV has stock Brickstone tires, it will FEEL MUCH HEAVIER at parking lot speeds, but this is very easily fixed with decent tires and by raising the rear 1" with shorter suspension struts. Goose
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It is your rear tire. But your bigger problem is that you have already decided it is not tires without either changing them or finding something else wrong. IMHO the tires you have are dangerous junk. Not only are they well know for having chunks of tread come off, but all of the rear 880s I have changed out for people show distinct uneven wear on the side tread blocks. This is what is causing your problem. Goose
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Looking for a Part Number (Bolt)
V7Goose replied to a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
The entire parts breakdown diagrams and parts listing are available on Yamaha's web site. All bikes from the last 10 years or so are there and it doesn't cost you anything to access them. Goose -
As long as there is some wiggle in the needles you will be seeing a good vacuum reading. When the needle bounces, the highest reading is actually the true vacuum during the intake stroke, but the vacuum bleeds off while the intake valve is closed during the compression and exhaust strokes. By using an inline restrictor to the vacuum gauge, you basically allow the gauge to hold onto most of that vacuum before the next big pulse. You want to see a little wiggle in the needles so that you know you have not closed the restrictor valve too far. When you synch the carbs, the actual vacuum reading is not near as important as all carbs reading the same value. I cannot remember for sure what the spec is for vacuum at idle, but I think it is about 12" Hg. Not all of these bikes will show that, but anything over 10" is typical. If you see a bike that is less than 10" at idle, it is a very strong indication that the pilot jets are plugged or the mixture screws are way too far in. When the engine cannot get enough fuel through the pilot jets, the idle screw needs to be turned more to open the slides and allow the fuel needed for idle to come through the main jets, and this will significantly drop the idle vacuum reading. If the synch changes when you rev the engine, then you may have either just one or two pilot jets partially plugged, or your sync is just not quite right. USUALLY I can get a bike to hold the same sync at 3,000 RPM as it does at 1,000 if I keep fiddling with it (redoing each sync step with extreme care), but once in a while it just won't dial in. In those cases, carb cleaning is indicated. Goose
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Your gauges came with four valves to put in-line with the gauges. You adjust the valves to calm the pulses so that the gauge just wiggles, this makes it much easier to compare the readings between cylinders. Goose
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There is absolutely NO negative affects from the Leveling Links, so long as you do not also mount a narrower front tire. If you use both the Leveling Links AND a 130/90-16 front tire, the bike will be quite squirelly when the rear tire is worn and beginning to show a square profile. With stock size tires of a decent brand, the Leveling Links provide a perfect handling experience. Goose
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Charging percentages are not a linear scale. Maybe you do not understand the technical specifics of a battery. I suggest you go to the Yuasa web site and download their technical manual. Page 20 shows that 12.5 volts on this type of sealed battery is only 50% charged. Full charge is 12.9 volts or better. There are other charts in the same manual that suggest different charge percentages at that voltage, but the bottom line is that the battery is no where near full charge at 12.5 volts. Goose
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12.5 volts is only about 50% charge on that battery. But you are correct that there should be no AC voltage at the battery. Goose
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Sounds to me like you are being ripped off! I do not know about the Frozen North, but in the USA the bikes are fully covered by a 5 year warranty, and any part that is not specified in the maintenance schedule to be changed, most certainly IS covered under that warranty! Any dealer trying to sell one of these bikes with less than the full original warranty is trying to hide something and would be violating our laws. If you can get out of that purchase, I would urge you to do so. Your dealer sounds quite dishonest to me. But I'll admit I have very little information upon which to make that determination. Goose
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Hole in the gas tank, part 2 - solution A - pics
V7Goose replied to massey130's topic in Watering Hole
I hate black bikes, but I actually think your white bike with the black tank looks real good. Goose -
Wishing all the best for you my friend. Goose
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We have been yelling for years on this site about how important it is to do something to improve the low speed handling of these bikes, but an awful lot of people just won't listen. I'm glad you finally took care of it. For the record, the single most important thing you can do to improve the low speed handling of the 2nd gens is to IMEDIATELY get rid of the stock Brickstone tires. Do NOT wait for them to wear out!!!! Any good tires, such as Avon Venoms or Dunlop E3s in stock sizes will produce astounding improvements over the stock Brickstones. (If you bought a new bike an dgot Dunlop D404 tires, you are lucky - they are just average to poor tires, instead of TERRIBLE like the Brickstones.) After getting rid of that terrible rubber, the next most important thing you can do is raise the rear of the bike by replacing the rear suspension links with ones that are 1/4" shorter - that will raise the rear of the bike by 1". DiamondR sells these under the name "Leveling Links". Goose
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Yes, this is completely normal. Goose
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The uneven wear that is usually attributed to the crown of the road and longer left had turns is there on virtually all FRONT tires, but almost never shows up on rear tires. In countries where we drive on the right side, that extra wear is always on the left side of the front tire; where they drive on the left side of the road, the extra wear is on the right side of the front tire. The difference in wear is always very slight, and it is usually only visible when the tire is almost worn out. And as I said above, it is extremely rare to see this wear on the rear tire. But more importantly to this thread is that fact that the uneven wear in the pictures is on the RIGHT side of the rear tire, so even if you disagree with me that rear tires do not show uneven crown wear, that cannot be the issue here. I will also flatly state that there is absolutely no way that the problem shown in those pictures is from under inflation. Goose
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Not necessarily Dave, a bent frame can cause the front and rear tires to fight each other. Also, if something did damage the frame, the same incident could have easily caused other damage to the forks, And if someone was so incompetent to improperly mount the rear tire, there is every reason to believe they would have been just as incompetent on the front. Perhaps post #5 is the magic number to get tire problems properly diagnosed (that is where I nailed your problem in that three page thread!), but I wouldn't hold out much hope of that here - we just don't have enough information or evidence to tell much other than something is definitely wrong! Goose
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handlebar diameter
V7Goose replied to Sideoftheroad's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
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From what I can tell in the pictures, you have something major wrong with your bike. That tire is worn unevenly, and it is so significant the actual shape of the tire has changed. It is very difficult to perform an accurate diagnosis from just a couple of pictures, but I would not be so quick to blame the tires. My first guess would be either a bent frame or improper tire beading. Goose
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In the past 40 years at least 16 bazillion cars have not turned in front of me. I attribute that to the fact that I will not ride a black bike and I will not use a modulator. Either decision provides complete protection. Goose
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best tire recommendation
V7Goose replied to kingtut's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
See about 10,000 existing threads on this exact topic, including several just in the past week or so. Goose