Jump to content

Captain Murph

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    48

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Captain Murph

  1. Captain Murph
    As a veteran, the substance of the "alleged" content of this legistlation alarms me, but I more alarmed and enraged at how so many of us can get jacked out of shape by something that may or may not be an issue. While I personally don't attribute much credibility to CNN's editorial agenda any more, reading the actual words in that page make it obvious: The Veterans groups wrote the letter about "what they had heard". "The details of specific proposals will be transmitted with the full submission in April. The president has made it clear that meeting the needs of veterans is one of his priorities, and as a result has requested an 11 percent increase in discretionary funding for 2010, and the administration is actively working with the veterans community to ensure we get the details of this budget right," said White House spokesman Nick Shapiro. In the letter, the groups said they have been told by sources on Capitol Hill and at the VA that the idea under consideration would allow the Department of Veterans Affairs to bill health insurance for a treatment of a disability or injury that was a result of military service. Let's try to direct our outrage at the things that are actually happening. Let's not even let ourselves snicker at jokes comparing the President to JFK. If you want to get upset and angry, get in the face of anyone who'd think that is funny. That's the last thing we need now. Murph
  2. Captain Murph
    There simply is no way to avoid the problem, but there are things you can do to prevent it from occurring earlier rather than later. The thrust washer which is the main (but not only) culprit was simply a bit too thin and a bit too soft to stand up to pulling lots of torque in second gear. When you are, the gear wants to walk in the direction that will allow it to pop out of the dogs which are engaged in the side of the gear. If you look at a picture, you'll see what this means. At any rate, you can possibly postpone the inevitable by not pulling more than half throttle or so in second gear. I have one an '84 now with only 37K with no evidence of problems. If I were to keep it and ride it as I have in the past year, I would expect this to happen at about 50K. I had another '84 with 55K and no problems that developed the problem completely in 5,000 more miles. 55K with no jump out, 60K wouldn't stay in second even under moderate torque. I did the repair, but it is way too intimidating for most to attempt. Don't get me wrong, it does not require more than lots of time, proper tools, patience, attention to detail and careful following of the excellent step-by-step procedures done by other riders here and at Venturers.org. I would not change to synthetic oil. I personally doubt that this would have any real positive effect on this problem and might cause or aggravate others. A lot depends on how you ride the bike. If you spent most of your time on the open road at 55+, you'll go many more miles than if you are in town going through the gears constantly. In case you are wondering, winding up a bit in first and going directly to third will work F O R E V E R with no ill effects. Even when the dogs are worn to the point where it will jump out with only a bit of torque, there is nothing inside that will cause other transmission problems. And, of course, if you eventually have it and you fix it, it will be good forever as well. Good luck.
  3. Captain Murph
    I have a right. I've always sold First Gen mirrors on Ebay for $60-$75. If you want one, I'll go $70. including USPS shipping. PM me at capnm@mascom.com Murph'
  4. Captain Murph
    You just carefully use a screwdriver to spread that portion of the top fairing cover. When you can pop one of the round lugs out of the hole in the side fo that cover, just rotate the controller a bit upward around the long axis (perpendicular to the axis of the lugs/pivot points) and the other side will come out. Installation is simply the reverse: Get one lug in, pry outward to spread and rotate the controller down to lock into the hole. Murph'
  5. Captain Murph
    Al: Just create a couple of searches on Ebay and one will turn up. I rode mine for two years before I was able to snag one for about $30. Try: Venture trunk reflector Royale reflector Yamaha trunk reflector Murph'
  6. Captain Murph
    Yep, that's the 2nd gear jumpout all right. You can either resort to 1-3 shifts or fix it. Quite a bit depends on how you ride the bike. The powerband and available torqe doesn't penalize you much if you skip 2nd. Even on the expressway ramp, you can wind it up a bit higher in first and go the third without much downside. If you want to take on the challenge of fixing it, it is certainly doable with the excellent instructions foud here and at (that other site) from Scott McMartin and others. Having fixed one and then later selling it, I think I'd ride it as is. There is no downside to the life of anything else in the transmission by doing this. None at all! If you have the punch mark, it could be that some savvy PO actually added it to increase the value of the bike. Adding this mark was done by dealers as an indication that the fix had been made. I don't think anyone has ever heard of a repeat failure on a "fixed" bike. Murph'
  7. Captain Murph
    Before you can jury-rig the class by running power to the appropriate inbound wire (s) you'll have to find out which wire should have power. According to this, there should be two Red/Blue hot leads coming in from the ignition switch to the controller harness. http://www.gunlakescooters.com/Venture/CLASS_blockdiagram.jpg
  8. Captain Murph
    Not necessarily so! If you are plugging in a known good controller, nothing will happen automatically. You need to put the key in the ACC position and then push the Rear button. If no digits show on the display, then you may not have power to the unit. Push Auto, then push Medium. If there is a working display and less than 42 psi in the rear, you will hear the compressor start and see the digits change. If this doesn't do anything (and you are using the known, good controller) then (and only then) it is possible that you don't have power to the white connector. If you use a test light (or multimeter on voltage position) and connect the negative lead to the battery ground, you should fine one of more of the pins in the connector that are hot. If not, you'd probably need to verify that your ACC position is definitely HOT. You should be able to do a couple of things to verify this - including just turning on the radio. If the radio comes on, you have an open somewhere in the harness that goes to the CLASS CONTROLLER. Murph'
  9. Captain Murph
    Get a Sansa Clip from Sandisk. It is a 4Gb MP3 with FM radio that is about the size of a matchbook and will clip to the collar of your jacket. When I'm not riding my First Gen, I commute with my Honda Silver Wing. I listen to NPR and news in the morning and music on the way home. It never needs a battery; it plugs into the USB port on your computer and charges the internal battery overnight. Here's a link: http://go.shopsansa.com/content.aspx?id=clip&refid=c2_clip3&gclid=CPiPmO2p-pUCFQNbxwodaCZHFg I picked up my 4Gb at Costco for only $59. It's a great product. By the way: You can also use a cassette adapter (since we all seem to have these throwbacks) and play through the 1st or 2nd Gen audio system as well. Murph'
  10. Captain Murph
    Gerbings for me too. I have the harness wired in permanently so I have a short pigtail one each side that comes along the grip but allows movement. I plug the gloves in about 20 minutes before I'm ready to start on days below 40 and the've kept me toasty in the 20's & 30's as well. No matter what else you do, if you can't keep your hands warm, riding is unconfortable in lower temps. Once you try everything else, get the Gerbings. You'll wonder why you waited that long! Yeah. They are about $140. (plus the harness adapters - about $23 from Gerbing). They're worth every penny. Murph'
  11. Captain Murph
    Can't help with your question, but do have a good TCI for an '83. PM me if you decide you need one. capnm@mascom.com Murph'
  12. Captain Murph
    Here's one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-1991-YAMAHA-VENTURE-REAR-H-S-R-C-TRUNK-PANEL_W0QQitemZ320298866623QQihZ011QQcategoryZ10066QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
  13. Captain Murph
    Try this: Put in "Auto" Push Rear button. Push Medium. If it is working OK, the compressor should start up a pump until about 42 is indicated. If this works, Push Front button. Push Low or Medium. In this case the compressor should start and build to 11-14 depending on whether you selected Low or Medium. Murph'
  14. Captain Murph
    I'd sure hate to think about you riding a strange bike with a partially disabled suspension system. If you PM me or direct to capnm@mascom.com, maybe we can work out a temporary loan of a known-good CLASS CONTROLLER. While, as others have said, you could have a variety of problems unrelated to the controller, it seems that most of the issues lie in the circuit board. My '86 is currently down for major maintenance and I won't be using it again this season. Please don't feel bad for me: I have a sweet '84 and sweeter '05 Silver Wing to ride! If we are able to work something out, you could swap out the entire controller in 5 minutes and (most likely) dial in your front and rear pressures. If you like, you can call me in the evening. Number is at my Ebay Store under "Contact Us" link: http://stores.ebay.com/Gun-Lake-Scooters Murph'
  15. Captain Murph
    Yeah. The MR90HB18 is the same RWL that I got at Tires Unlimited (see link above) for $125. plus shipping.
  16. Captain Murph
    There is a rubber sleeve that tends to bond itself to the tip and the pipe. They will come off, but you just have to work at it. A little penetrating oil won't hurt.
  17. Captain Murph
    After years of riding a First Gen ('86 and a couple of 84's & an '85), I found that I didn't care much for riding the Victory Vision. Unlike most of you, I'm not that turned off by the radical styling but I didn't like the powerband of the engine, the extreme clunking of the transmission and a few other items. If I were seriously considering buying something in the $15K-$22K range, I'd consider it, the RSV, The BMW K bike and the 1800 Wing. I don't know which I'd choose, but it is a moot point.
  18. Captain Murph
    I have had very good luck with the Elite III on the rear and the Elite II on the front. These are readily available, but only with RWL (Raised White Lettering). I have a post elswhere here with the links to the place I've bought my last 3 or 4 Dunlops. Until I have the need to match brands (and don't want to do that), I'll stick with the Dunlops. I have very good wear, no cupping or tread problems and good wet traction. If you can't find the front, PM me. Murph'
  19. Captain Murph
    While replacing this pin (or swapping out for a less-worn clutch master) might not be a bad idea, the leakage that made the cylinder go empty probably was due to the slave cylinder, not the master. Murph'
  20. Captain Murph
    The new springs will most likely do the trick. And, while most everyone talks about replacing the pvc spacers with some metal conduit - you can use them as-is just fine. You will notice a couple of things when you are done with the project: 1. The bike will sit higher in the front than it did. 2. Your clunking will be gone and low speed handling will be greatly improved. 3. Your bike will lean over more when on the sidestand. Murph'
  21. Captain Murph
    The socket is a 30mm. That's the same socket you use when you remove the handlebar nuts. It's worth having. Murph'
  22. Captain Murph
    Yeah. The gutteral sound helps a lot, but there might be something else. I haven't quite worked out the physics, but I do know that this particular bike has new springs which make the front sit up quite a bit from it former saggy self. It could be that the geometry of the stand was designed for the normal "ride heights" for a new bike and a front end that sits low makes it quite a bit harder. Come to think of it, I think that getting it up on the stand if there is any kind of front-down, downhill tilt makes it a real bear. Once again, the new springs solve another problem! Murph
  23. Captain Murph
    It isn't a trick but something you practice until you find the right spot to stand. As someone else said, having it level side to side is important; I usually move to make contact with both "pads" before the take the main "action". The action is your leg! You don't pull the bike up on the stand, you try to push the tang of the stand down through the pavement. The creates the leverage to lift the bike - the stand does the lifting (not you). The technique is slightly different between my '84 and '86 due to the location and shape of the rear case guards. For the '83-85: 1. Stand on the port side of the bike holding the bars with your left hand and port case guard with your right. 2. Stand the bike vertical - check by feeling the pad on either side of the centerstand touching as you tilt back and forth very slightly. 3. Facing the rear of the bike put the ball of your right foot on the centerstand tang. THIS STEP CAN'T BE DONE IN FLIP FLOPS, BARE FEET; You need enough sole to cushion the force you are placing on it to lever the bike up. 4. In one smooth motion roll the bike aft while your right leg concentrates your weight to lever it up. For those who prefer a visual/verbal presentation, here's a video for you: http://www.gunlakescooters.com/Venture/VentureCenterstand.wmv
  24. Captain Murph
    You'll be OK with all but the headlight. 86-93 are different.
  25. Captain Murph
    \ Matching? Not in the Dunlops. You can still get the RWL for the front in an Elite II. The Elite III Bias are all BW as far as I can tell.
×
×
  • Create New...