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Showing results for tags 'voltage'.
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Hey you Electrical Engineers- can't I add a diode from radio shack to drop the voltage or regulate pulsing a little in my 2 (55watt) driving lights I added to my ride? The first one only lasted 15-20 hours. i suspect the real culprit was the incesssant shaking...but a small drop in voltage may help!??? I know ohms law but you guys have thought this out better I'm sure.
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Symptoms: Last used bike 5 days ago. Today, turned key, had power, hit starter, click, dead. Everything dead. After leaving alone for a while and it got dark, I would notice that I turn key from off to ACC and the radio lights come on for a second then fade away. Turn to ON and nothing is there. Turn off then back to ACC and no radio lights unless I let it sit for a few minutes. Still, nothing works, no radio, no horn, no lights. Troubleshooting notes: I cleaned the battery terminals and retightened. Battery voltage was at 12.7 V. Then I turn switch to ACC and battery voltage drops to 7 or 8 V while radio light comes on then fades off a second later. I turn the ignition switch all the way to ON and the battery voltage drops to near zero. I repeated this several times, then noticed my battery was having a hard time coming back up to 12 V, so I expect a short some where. Then, I hooked up the trickle charger and it was acting funny. It has a light to indicate when the battery is charged, and that light was slowly flickering. If charged, it would stay constant on, but if charging, it would stay off. I tested all fuses with continuity tester, that includes all 5 fuses on left side behind panel C, plus the 30A main fuse behind panel B, plus all 5 fuses in the lower right fairing, and all got continuity on all. I read several posts about ignition switch failure, so I checked that too. (Note: my radio doesn't work though) Took tank off and checked continuity across ignition wire connectors and found no problems. Please share ideas. I will check the thread again tomorrow and try your suggestions. I really don't want to try to push this 900 lb beast up the ramp into my jacked-up truck! -
My bike decided not to start after getting gas the other day. I thought it might be the battery because its not exactly new. I had the battery tested they said it was ok so I checked the voltage with the bike at 2000-4000 rpm and it was 13.4 V DC the book says it should be 14-15 V. Is that right seems a little high to me. So you fine folks think the stators going? I have not checked the resistance yet or the AC voltage.
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what should my voltage be when running at speed,: 50 w driving lights wired directly, sylvania ultra headlight, rear running light/turn signal/ brake light,....carb heaters probably on, 4 month old battery, buckeye stator........ and if not correct....why....and what to test.......
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Hi everyone, I am looking for some who can do a voltage check on your tci---let me give what I need. I have an 84 venture, I have 12 volts going to the tci- at all the wires that are 12 volts---- Now what I would like some to do is, do a voltage reading at the 12 volt inputs with the key on,--- Now his what I need to know ---- when you hit the starter WHAT IS THE VOLTAGE READING? mine is droping to about 4/5 volts!!! but will not start. Now everything else is ok, in fact I do get a very weak spark out of the coils. My thought is that I should have 12 volts all the time-can't rember any thing that would drop that low just to start! Also the other parts of the system stays at 12 volts, I hope someone could do a test on their bike just to see if this is where my problem is. Thanks a million guys. tom ---cookieman
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My R/R is out and i'm explorind other than OEM equipment options since the OEM isnt readily available around here. And it would be a new experience. Right now i am running one from an XV535 that is working but for how long i can't guess. it gets supper hot. Probably overloaded ... Anyone know what the voltage from the stator is, i have been looking at a shindengen unit that has a voltage max of 40 volts. -
Some months ago I was asking about this swap- I am nealy complete now but need some advice on wiring the (electric) anti-dive soleniods to work. Do I simply use the brake switch to feed them 12V? Do I setup a relay? Do they need a different voltage? Any help is deeply appreciated, Mark Koontz '83 Venture Wichita, KS -
As always there are a lot of electrical issues coming up in these forums maney of which are ground related. Most go through a lot of agravation checking there grounds only to find out there is nothing wrong with the ground. True you should always eliminate any possible ground faults as a first step in diagnosing electrical issues. so here is a very useful and simple test to verify your ground condition. what you need a voltmeter a high beam headlight two 3 ft lengths of wire two aligator clips A) connect an alligator clip to one end of each wire B) connect the other end of each wire to a terminal on the high beam headlight 1) connect voltmeter to battery and record the voltage reading eg: 12V 2) connect the alligator clips from the high beam to the batt and record the resulting reading eg: 11.5 V the difference is your voltage drop eg: 0.5 v 3) disconnect the high beam aligator clip and the volt meter test lead from the neg post of the battery only 4) connect the volt meter neg lead to the engine block and read record the voltage reading eg: 12v 5) connect the alligator clip from the high beam to the same point on the engine block and not the voltage eg: 1) 11.2 v voltage drpo is relitivily close to that recorded in step (2) your ground to the engine is good you need not look any further. If for example your voltage upon connecting the high beam dropped to say for eg: 7v than you have a ground issue and need to locate it 6) repeat steps (4 & 5) but connect to the frame of the bike to test if the frame has a proper or faulty ground. this test takes only several minutes to perform and is far more reliable than using an ohmeter because an ohmeter does not load up the circuit which would pass under a light currant load but fail under a heavy load. slight modifications of this test can be used to load test any wire on the bike and will instantly reveal if a wire or circuit is sound or faulty with out having to tear the whole bike down eleminating a lot of unecessary work. By leaving the voltmeter and head light connected to the neg side of the battery and moveing the positive side connections in the same maner the positve side of you electrical system can also be tested you must take more care however when loading up the positve side of the electrical system to be sure you don't accidently load up a sensitive component in the sysem by mistake. In such case i often disconnect both ends of the circuit apply voltage to one end of the wire and connect my voltmeter and then my test load to the other end.
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OK, I have read a few threads here about that doggone battery light that wont go off. I have one. and have followed the recommended fixes to the tee. Even purchased the 2.2 and 1k resistors and tried fooling the light to go off. No deal. I am just about to resort to the duct tape fix like some have recommend but thought I give it one last shot by soliciting guidance here. The battery is good and tests at 12.45 volts even after sitting for some time. But just to be sure while trying to diagnose this thing tonight I had a battery tender on it and it had gone up to 12.55. Anyway, it does have a battery sensor attached between cells 3 and 4. There is a resistor in-line just after the sensor. Voltage just after the sensor is 6.24 volts. Voltage at the plug is 6.24v where it connects into the white with red stripe wire. I had even followed the white/red wire to the connector on the back of the CMS at the rear of the instrument panel - voltage 6.24v. Therefore, I thought the CMS had gone bad. I had a replacement and tonight I swapped them out. Result - Battery Light still flashing. What the heck! Any ideas here from those that perhaps have been confronted with this problem. I am all ears or in this case; eyes. -
Getting ready to put in a new Big Crank. Going to do the resistor mod as well to turn off the warning light. Went to Radio Shack to get the resistors and they had a choice of 1/4 watt and 1/2 watt in both 1k and 2.2k-Ohm. Does the voltage make any difference? Kevin -
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=LT1076CT-5-ND I want to buy a cheap garage door remote from fleabay and install it into the tank plastic of my RSV. I plan to remove the remote from the plastic housing and mount it under the tank plastic. I will wire a momentary button and install into the plastic. The only thing visable will be the momentary button, with the remote electronic circuit hidden underneath. I don not want to have a battery that needs to be replaced, so I want to wire the voltage regulator from accessory power to supply the remote. The remote uses a cr2032 battery, which is 3 volt. The voltage regulator I am looking at is 5V, but I do not think that is too high for the remote. Anyone have any experience with this voltage regulator? Is it a stand alone voltage regulator? Any advice is appreciated. -
Are all voltage regulators for first Gens interchangable ??? I have an 84 and can get a 86 on Ebay. Tia JB
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I pulled my radiator overflow tank and pulled the 3 white wire connection apart... I ohmed it out to each other... nothing... I started the bike had black wire to neg side of batery and red probe to all 3 wires (1 at a time) and I got no Voltage... Am I doing something wrong? or did my stator wires some how become disconnected? Does the white plug have to be connected to produce voltage? I'm thinking the Dealer did something to this when I had my Shock Replaced, Cruise & Fuel gauge fixed under warranty. Of course my warranty is run out now and the work was done in March and I haven't done any long trips and have been putting on a tender every night... I kinda knew something was up a while ago when a few times I got a weak crank. Any suggestions??
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I have not been able to locate a voltage regulator for my bike, if you have one for sale or know how to order one asap please contact me at ezornes@ comcast.net or 765-284-2586 lv msg. thank you Erik Zornes:think:
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When stopped or just taking off my engine just stops like you turned the key off. It starts back up as soon as you hit the starter. I have had a hiccup before where it is momentary, but yesterday it would completely die, once while pulling out from a side street, which could have been serious if there had been traffic. I've checked connectors and switches for corrosion or just being loose. The relays in the system have voltage as they are supposed too. The radio nor none of the other accessories seem to lose power when this happens. I'm at a loss.
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I'd like to hard wire the power source for my XM, and i've searched a couple ways to do it that look straight forward. My question is, the power cord that I have now indicates 5vdc, is there some sort of resistor in the cigarette adapter that lowers the voltage to the unit, or is that just a minimum and will run off 12vdc no problem? Thanks Joe
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My air suspension system just started giving me the E4 error message(The pressure sensor has no output voltage). What may be causing this? Thanks, bbcoach56
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Hello, Over the last few months I added a pair of 55W driving lights and later heated grips which draw about 3 amps. I started having some battery-drain problems after the grips. Some testing last weekend confirmed that it seems the stock charging system is OK but pretty well maxed out with the lights, and the grips push it over the edge. It's OK under some conditions, but sometimes the voltage just won't go over 12.7 or so with all of it turned on. As I mentioned last week, I want to install LED's in the two front clearance lights and one of the brake light sockets to get back 1.7 amps. Also, I was dissatisfied with the fact that the headlight was getting 2 volts less than the system; with the bike charging at 14V the light only got 12V. This has a direct effect on brightness. As I had done on my Virago, a while back I installed relays for low and high beam to send battery power right to the light and bypass all the factory wiring, switches and connectors. I was rudely awakened to the fact that the Venture's lighting system was smarter than me and didn't like that. Last weekend I settled for gaining back some of that voltage. I installed one relay in the L/B wire to the RLU (check manual for explanation). Bike side of L/B activates my relay, and RLU side of that wire gets power from the relay. Relay draws power from battery - almost - explanation below. This bypasses the ignition and start switches, and gained about .8V. Finally, I had been powering relays off the batt pos post. However, looking at the diagrams, the factory setup puts the main 40A fuse right off the battery, then everything else after that. The highest voltage when running won't be at the battery but rather at the charging system with the main fuse being a potential source of voltage drop (minor point). At any rate, I decided it was more sound electrically to power any relays just downstream of the main fuse. My 2 cents :-) Jeremy -
Went to take the bike to work today and it wouldn't start,, battery seemed weak. This is the second time it has happend.. Bike is just a year old last week and completely stock. First time it had sat unused for a month, and when I went to start it the radio had been turned off so I was not 100% sure I had turned the key all the way off. I charged the battery and it was fine for a few weeks. On the 13th I did a 150 mile ride and put it back in the garage, hadn't had a chance to ride since (but that is only 11 days) and today it wouldn't start. The key was definitely off. I will get to it tomorrow and check the fluid level, connections and voltage, charge it, and check the voltage running, to make sure it is charging OK. Anything else to look for?
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I Installed new Freeway blasters on my 07 RSV, but they are not operating at full volume. This morning I'm going out to the garage to test for ground resistance. and the voltage supply to the horn's. My question is, Where are the ground points on my bike? I have been through the factory manual and can not find that info. Thanks guy's Ken
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Went to crank the bike today and all it did was grunt. A little investigating showed that my battery voltage was low and the Harbor Freight Battery Tender had failed and caused the battery to start draining. The Tender was showing only 1.8V output.. I thumped it and the voltage jumped to 5.5v... Next step was to throw it in the garbage and vow never to buy another one. I thought some of you may use the Harbor Freight ones and may want to reconsider whether or not to keep them. Anyway, I got out my Exide Charger and set it up to recharge the bike on the 2A Automatic setting. Took several hours to bring the charge back to full but so far battery doesn't seem to be hurt. May have shortened the life of it though but only time will tell. While waiting on the recharge I found the following link and thought it pretty interesting on batteries. I thought some of you Techies might like to read it. http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechMan.pdf I even learned something...LOL
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Yeah, I have another problem that I don't know how to surmount. For the last few days I had been noticing how increasingly problematic my bike's starting has been. It had begun to take longer & longer to get it started, with each attempt. Today, I went out to start my bike - and it wouldn't. I mean, it acted as if it wanted to, but it wouldn't start. The Volt-meter would read at the "12" position, with just the key turned to "On". When the 'Start' button is pressed, that needle would dip to the line right at the 'yellow'. For the first few days of having this new battery, there was a much stronger voltage reading for it. But that is not the case now, though, and I wonder if there is something depleting the battery's power. Would the 'Stator' have any possible connection with this situation? If not, please share your thoughts on what "I" might be able to do to find out what's going on.
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1984 Venture Standard. My charging system failed when I got to the Soo Thurs night. I had to leave the bike there and am now in Minneapolis for the weekend. I have no output from the voltage regulator and think its bad. The stator puts out 5 volts AC at idle and 10 volts at 2000rpm on all 3 coils. I checked the connectors and the diode check on the regulator is OK. 1. Do these readings on the stator sound OK? 2. Where can I get a Voltage Reg fast between Minneapolis and Sault ST.Marie? Does anyone have 1 I can buy? It will take 3 days from the dealer. My battery is a year old and charged OK from a charger. The bike starts and runs except for charging.
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