Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'valve'.
-
After some searching here I'm still a bit confused. I was investigating a small amount of fluid found under the bike today. It appears that I maybe am getting a bit from this valve located right under the Rad. It's not too bad of a leak and I've added a new o-ring to the need to get list, but I'm a bit confused ont he on/off markings. The manual picture isn't clear enough for me to tell what I'm supposed to be lining up. So I read on here about how it should drop into a detent. OK...I felt that. I have the OFF lined up at what I'd call 7 o'clock as I look at the valve. I let the bike idle for a while and the temp gage seems to be reading ok. is this the correct position for normal riding? Thanks everyone. 89 VR w/ 47K on her. bob
-
It might have been around Labor Day when I last was on the forum here. My husband and I were asked to get my uncle's '83 Venture running. Over the Labor Day weekend, we almost did, then my husband knocked a hole in one of the carb float bowl covers, so we pulled the carbs again and brought them home. Since my uncle lives three hours away, we got a bike trailer and went back for the bike. A busy life and apprehension delayed us pulling the bike off the trailer until a week ago. I patched the hole in the carb with some of that two part epoxy stick the obnoxious guy on television pitches, and we put capfulls of Seafoam in the jets we could get to, and reinstalled the carbs. Yesterday, we drained the fuel tank and put fresh gas in. With coaxing, the engine started and ran, mostly on three cylinders, sometimes four, and for maybe the first time since 1996, the motorcycle actually moved under its own power. My husband was straddling it, letting the engine warm, twisting the throttle, listening for the fourth cylinder to fire. As the old girl warmed and idled without choke, he decided to just see what would happen if he shifted to first and eased out the clutch. She wanted to go, so he, with no seat installed, gingerly putted a couple of laps around the house. Well, that was dicey, so he put a helmet and jacket on, and decided to see if she'd go up and down the street. Second and third gears are fine, and fast enough without a seat, or rear brake, and poor front brake. There's no power to the instrument cluster, or blinkers, or headlight. Not surprising, there appear to be a couple of exaust leaks. The fuel flow valve needs to be replaced. The plastic is crumbled, so the valve can't be turned. We'd like to put a better one on it. I haven't searched yet, but am hoping to find out if others here have replaced their fuel valves with better ones. The one on my Vulcan looks like it'd fit, so I'm hoping I can replace it with a Kawi valve.
-
Two days prior to hurricane Ike hitting here, I pulled the tank off my '05 RSV and changed the plugs, while I had the tank off I also changed out the coolant and cleaned the reservoir. I also went ahead and changed the oil and filter. Anyway during this time the storm hit and needless to say my attention got diverted from my task of completing the maint. I work in one of the Chemical plants here on the shipchannel and just the other day after two weeks I got the bike back together. Heres is the problem, it hs started back-firing rather badly after it geets good and warm (when down-shifting). After looking at a parts manual I see that there is a roll over valve I do not think that I reattached the hose from the tank to the valve. I really don't remember even taking it loose. Could this be causing the problem? Plugs were replaced with same type and #, no contamination of fuel. So I am stumped, what do ya'll think?
-
I'm just settling in to do a valve adjustment on my 2Gen RSV and was looking through Clymer's (for the part number to the Valve Cover Gasket) when I noticed that the picture shows a pretty tight space to get on the CAM to turn it. The books call for a Yamaha Valve tappet. Now on my cars, I've always just used channellocks. Since I'm ordering the gasket now, I can probably add the tool to the order if necessary. Any opinions as to the necessity of this tool?
-
Like the little dog said when the train ran over it's tail: It won't be long now! The project that Matt and I have been working on is coming together after it had been sitting idle collecting dirt dabber's nest and pine straw for the past eight years. Problem started when he lost the seal on anti dive valve and lost fork oil in front shocks. He let a buddy work on who let it fall over in his shop which broke the stator cover where the shifter rod penetrats it taking the shifter linkage out. So then it sat in the drive-way, out in the rain, full of bad gas, for eight years. Like I said collecting dirt dabbers and pine straw. We managed to get it pushed up onto a trailer to get it hauled over to my house where it has been for the past few months in various states of disassembly. Matt and his wife Charlotte have been very patient with me while I took a month off to Sturgis and to ride around in the wild west on my latest adventure. So when I got back it was time to buckle down and get back to work. So.... We drained the fluids removed the side covers and had them dipped and polished Went through the electrical system cleaning and checking electrical contacts removed and rebuilt the carbs changed out the fuel filter fixed the anti dive valve replaced the fork oil replaced the clutch perch and slave cylinder Bleed the clutch system and recharged replaced the covers new oil filter and oil new brake fluid cleaned and repaired all the plastic body parts Synched the carbs In the morning we are going to rebuild rear brake caliper and as soon as we get the brakes right put the plastic back on. I expect that we will be riding tomorrow. :7_6_3[1]: Before and after pictures to follow tomorrow. I quess next project will be to find a job. I've about milked this last motorcycle adventure vacation which has lasted six years. Just hope I can find a motorcycle job,
-
on my 05 RSTD (12k miles) and it was WAY easy. If anybody in the DFW needs help, let me know, I have the mercury sticks and it didn't take 10 minutes. Now if only the valve adjustment would be this easy... -
I found out that I don't have any reserve fuel when the engine quits in the on position. Luckily I had just turned onto the street in front of my house. I took the valve apart and the seal looked good. When I put a quart of fuel in the tank and held my finger over either hole coming from the tank, it would drain all the fuel out the other hole. Has anyone else had this problem? Do I need to buy a new valve assy?
-
leaking anti-dive valve, HELP
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I have the right anti-dive valve on th front fork that started leaking at the weep hole. Does anyone know how to fix or where to get one as I found none on e-bay. I have replaced the o-rings and that didnt fix problem. -
The web site for this product is gone. It it no longer available?
-
Does anyone know where I can get the valve bucket tool to hold the buckets down so I can replace the shims. My dealer can't find a current part number for the tool. Thanks
-
I hope someone out there can help. My 89 VR rear brake didn't let all the way off after an emergency stop. It heated up to the point it pulled the bike to a stop about 3 miles later. I have I have rebuilt the caliber and it looks good, no rust or pits. Next I took the master cyclinder off and thought I had found it stuck. I freed it up and worked it off and on all day by hand. it had good return every time. I put it back on bike and used it to fill the left front caliber. When I went to fill the rear caliber the peddle would not go down at all, even with the rear caliber line unhooked. Question? Does the metering valve under the fairing have a slider valve that isolates the front caliber from the rear, like cars used to have, or is it a proportioning? I have read all the post I can find, and I don't see any mention of the metering valve I appreciate any info, Thanks
-
on rear shock?? Has any one attempted to mofiy the valve stem on the rear shock to make it easier to get to? I would like to know if this is possible. Thanks Fat Hands:rotfl:
-
Hi all, I can't get the CLASS working on my 1984 Royal, when I put the ignition on ACC, to get the class working, it does a quick scan and then goes onto 0, which is great as no errors, but when I press the Auto/Manual button, nothing? It should obviously go to manual, I have taken the class unit apart as it did have some grubby/sticky buttons and I also checked that the solder joints were good, which they are. I've also checked the valve assembly & pump which all seems good, I took out the connector for the valve assembly pressure sensor and got an error 4 message, put it back in and the error was gone, so I know the CLASS is working, any ideas?
-
I went to one of the local dealers today as I have a small leak from my valve covers on my 85 1st gen. It leaves a puddle the size of a quarter every time i stop and it drives me nuts! I almost fell over when the parts guy said that the gaskets were 38 bucks each! thats gonna cost me 76 bucks to do both sides. I think I gotta check around but I thought I would ask in here to see what you guys are paying for valve cover gaskets. thanks Brian:cool10:
-
i work with a guy, who just bought a mid/late 90'svirago-1100. he says that at hiway speed, it sounds as if the valves are clattering,but not noticeable at any other speed. bike has 5600, miles on it. i wouldn't think the valve train, would make a racket, with these few miles on it. anyone able to help me out on this one? just jt
-
I found and fixed the air leak in that new front tire. It was a valve stem. I tried tightening the two lock nuts but no luck. I had to loosen both nuts and push the stem down in the rim. Blowed out some hard white chaulky stuff may have been some form of old tire sealant. Rotated the stem about 90 degrees and retighten now that new front tire is holding pressure. OK next problem that new rear Yammer Dan and I installed last fall is leaking around it's valve stem about 2 lb a day. I'll try the same fix on it. Check those valve stems for slow leaks.
-
Can anyone verify for me where the shim placement is for the needle valve modification. I want to make this mod. I read the article in the tech section but it is not clear to me where to move or add the shim. I think it goes under the plastic piece on the needle but want to be sure before I do this. I also was hoping to hear from some people who have made this mod without jetting the carbs. Is it worth the effort? thanks for the help
-
Thanks to all who helped me work through the issues and bring the bike back to life. GeorgeS, Squidly, and Condor, and others thanks for taking the time to explain each step when I had yet another question. Now if I can locate someone willing to give the Royale a once over to see what else should be done. The engine seems to get a little loud once it is a operating temperature. A little less noticable when the clutch is pulled in. Not a knock like a bearing but more of a possible valve train issue. I live in South Central Pennsylvania, Bedford County. so if anyone lives in nearby PA., Western Maryland, or West Virginia and would be interested in taking a look, please give me a yell! Regards Dave
-
Something else to look out for. I changed plugs yesterday and when I went to remove the fuel hose from the tank valve (fingers only) the whole brass tube pulled out of the valve. This could ruin your whole day if it fell out on the road. Imagine nice warm $3.78 a gal. gasoline running down your left calf and filling your boot. I made an aluminum drift and tapped it back in gently but I think I will still come up with a way to safety wire it. Anyway you might want to give your's a good tug before your next ride and make sure you turn it to off every time you shut off the engine, especially if you have an 04.
-
From: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#buy Ventures use a Group 5, from Don's earlier submission. Bottom line, these were the recommended filters; the longer one fits easily on my '02 Venture; I could find the Bosch 3323: Recommended filters. All these have superior filtering. These Oil Filters have 20 x 1.5mm threads, 14 psi by-pass valve, anti-drain back valve, 2.3" O.D. gasket 2.5" to 3.5" long. If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters. About 2.5 inches long. Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6. Mobil M1-108, about $12. (Made by Champion) Bosch 3300, about $6. (Made by Champion)About 3.25 inches long. Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6. Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10. Made by Champion) Bosch 3323, about $6. (Made By Champion) WalMart SuperTech ST7317, about $2. (Made by Champion)Buy these filters These Oil Filters have 20 x 1.5mm threads, 14 psi by-pass valve, anti-drain back valve, 2.3" O.D. gasket 2.5" to 3.5" long. If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters. Motorcycle Filters. None of these are recommended: AC Delco PF2135 AMSOil SMF103 Carquest 85358 FRAM PH6017A Honda 15410-MCJ-000 K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal. NAPA Gold 1358 Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator. STP SMO 17 WIX 51358
-
just came back from a test ride on the FJR. New front tire, 1 1/2 oz of the beads, 80mph,no vibration. This is just a initial feeling out, more updates to follow, when the tire gets half way worn. The manufacter says you can add them thru your tire valve, but I have 90degree stem, so had to install during mounting. I have a different type(external) on the motorhome with good results, so i thought I'd give the beads a try.
-
I hope there is an easy fix, but I don't think so. Was going to take the beast out and bingo the front tire was flat. That brand new metzler was doing the pancake impersonation. No nail and a full bottle of Ride-on, that tire can't be flat????? It was and the air was coming out of the base of the valve stem. There are two nuts on the base of the valve stem and one appears to be a locking nut. Is there a way to tighten it or does the tire need to be removed to fix it. I tinkered with the stem, but it turns and does not appear to be tightening. Any thoughts?? joe
-
OK, as some of you already know, I had my 07' in for the "head gasket replacement TSB". They replaced the head gaskets. By the way, the tech stated that one of the bolts was finger tight!!!! Anyways, no leaks from the new head gasket but once they put my brand new motor back together, the valve cover, front, left as you sit on the bike was leaking a bit. I took it back and they had it for a few days and stated that the leaking will subside after a while and that the leak isn't caused by the valve cover gasket or lack of torque on the valve cover bolts, but its actually the Yamaha engine design that oil gets down in some sort of valley or something like that and pools up in the front, left because that's the way the bike sits. They stated the oil "leak" should go away after that oil works itself out. Anyone have any opinions on this and have they had the same issue. I do have confidence in this shop and want to believe him BUT, it didn't leak when I bought the bike:) Thanks for any input. By the way, they also completed the Yamaha TSB on the "lack of grease on the rear hub pins.
-
Hey all, I'm in need of a rear proportioning valve for the rear master cylinder. If anyone could help me out I would appreciate it, I'd like to avoid spending $75 for one....Thanks -
I know this is probably the wrong place to post this butttttttttttt, it has alot of people viewing! Can anyone tell me if you torque the valve cover bolts when replacing the valve cover gaskets and if so what would it be? Thanks very much:confused24: It is for a 89 VR
.thumb.jpg.b203d556b367d4814fdedc66c05b0faf.jpg)
