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Showing results for tags 'master'.
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I put XM/sirius radio on my RSV, went in fairing unpluged the wire going to the tape deck aux port, plugged up and ext set, placed the Sirius antenna on the trunk rack, its magnetic so it just grabs on. Mounted the receiver on the right side master cylinder. Works great, what ever I want to listen to, no tapes, no cd's, no batteries. no little box to keep up with. just music with no problems, $120 yearly. And yes it been in the rain several times, no problems. Gregg
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Ok, here's the deal. The last thing I had to do today before I buttoned the bike back up was swap out the two front brake lines with the new braided SS one. So I hit the hard one first. The left front caliper from the metering valve on the steering head. Not as bad as I expected. Used an injector to fill the lines with fluid and bled it out from the top then the caliper. Slick. Done this a few times before so I got the linked system down to a science. Now the easy one. Of course this is where I get in trouble. Front brake master to the right front caliper. I ran the line down through and disconnected the lines from the caliper and hooked up the new SS line. I then cracked up the union on the master and quickly changed the lines. About 30 second to do it. Filled the res with fluid and then using the injector as a vacumn on the bleeder I pulled fluid down though the line. Filled the res again and discover I have no pressure on the brake lever. Went back to the bleeder and used pressure to back fill the system from the bottom. The res level increased but still no pressure on the lever. This master was rebuilt last year and has been working fine. I drove it into the garage this morning. Some how I lost pressure in the few seconds that I had the upper fitting off. How do I get this master to reprime without tearing it apart? Any ideas? -
15 mins and counting 'ffore I need to get my rear back to work, so I'm asking instead of researching! '83 VR in shop with brake pedal bottoming out. figured it needed bleeding. Saturday the brake was firm and working great, today when I came to P/U it was back where I started. shop thinks it may be bypassing the valve but cautioned that a rebuild may not solve the problem. 1. Will a valve rebuild solve the problem ( kit $90) 2. Would I be better off with a new master? (OEM $600) Alternatives? 3. Is a used one an option? Does someone have one? 4. Where do i get the rebuild kit (cheaper)? 5. Where do i get new SS lines? part #? $$? Thanks, in advance! If I can figure out whichis the best way to go, maybe I'll have my bike back by the weekend!! Yeah, I can ride the Shadow, what can i say, I'm spoiled!!
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I have a couple items on ebay for a 1st gen. Thought someone might be interested. The pic of the master cylinder covers do not do them justice. It looks like the pic is showing my finger prints. The item number is 2803372740063 for the covers. I also have a mirror and a pair of riding gloves on there too. Car business is slow, so looking for a little extra:mo money:.
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I have a Venture Royale that I picked up for $300.00 and is in pretty decent shape. I also ride a 1200 Aspencade Goldwing that I have done alot of work on. Put a new battery in,new fuel filter and lines,plugs,chacked air filter and it fired up on the first spin. Put seafoam in and ran on center stand for awhile. Great throttle response and good idle only when it idles there is an occasional pop coming from the rear cylinders in the exhaust area.Any thoughts on what it could be? Maybe leaking from exhaust flange? I cant ride it yet as I need to fix the sightglass on clutch master, repair rear brakes and master and fix the fan. Fan works if unplug and ground out so may be temp sending unit. Any thoughts would be appreciated! -
Two weeks ago I replaced the rear tire and put progressive springs in the forks. Also replaced the rear brake pads while I had everything apart. To compress the pistons in the caliper, I removed the bolt from the rear master cylinder to relieve pressure. Cleaned all brake parts, and bled the line following the factory manual (rear caliper, front caliper, metering valve, in that order). Around town the brakes work fine, but if I don't use them for awhile out on the road get no action from the peddle. It is very soft and depresses quite a ways with no stopping action from the rear/front left. If I 'pump' the peddle it returns enough to stop the bike with just the peddle. The front right is having no problems. I'm not sure what to look at next. It seems to me that if they start out tight and work around town that it wouldn't be the master cylinder, and it can't be brake fade from a misaligned pad heating up because it affects both calipers. Any ideas?
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Thought I'd give a sneak preview of this year's upgrades on Goldie. I'm finally doing the MK2 upgrade of the brakes which includes replacing the front suspension. Here's the shocks as of today, waiting on the rest of the new parts... Brakes and Master Cylinders are already done as well as nice new SS lines. So are the Calipers. Now to install all these nice "Good as new" parts!
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A month ago I posted how after bleeding brakes on the 83 Venture the brakes locked up on the test drive and had no play in pedal. The bike is at a friends and he just got back from 3 weeks in Florida so I got to work on it for the first time today. First I adjusted the brakes so I had free play in the pedal. Took for test drive and after using the brakes twice the rear and left front locked up again. Took bleeder wrench so cracked rear caliper bleeder, released pressure and didn't touch brakes until I got back. Two or three hits on the brakes and locked up again. Now this time took a small hammer and tapped on master and brakes released somewhat. Now the master was already taken apart and cleaned. So I believe the problem is with master cylinder. So the questions are. Should the master be talking apart and cleaned again or should I look for another master cylinder? And is it agreed the Master cylinder is the most likely reason for the lock ups? Thank You.
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Good evening fellow members. I am looking for a source for a rear brake master cylinder rebuild kit for my 88 VR. I haven't called the stealer yet. I flushed the fluid in the rear and that didn't seem to help. Even if I pump it, it doesn't have much stopping power. I replaced the pads with new EBC HH pads and still no improvement so I am guessing the next logical step is to rebuild the master and see if that doesn't solve the "barely braking" problem. When rebuilding the master is it also advised to take the reservoir off and flush it out as well or just do a good flushing of the fluid after the rebuild? I also have searched the net and can't find a source for the grommet that goes around the headset cable that goes through the plastic on the fairing. I looked on J&M Corp website but no luck. Does anyone know where I could get one of these grommets? Thanks in advance for all your help.
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Front brake Master Cylinder for a MK1?? There is no guts in it but was honed. I have 3 rebuilt Mk2 masters for myself and this is taking up room! Yours for the asking...
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Got my parts in toady from Rick at Buckeye and will attempt tomorrow to repair clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder on my 83 VR. I do have the mannual that shows the diagram for the mc, but the directions for the slave are pretty vague. Anyone ever do these jobs or have any expert advice before I tear into them. Need to get old 83 up and running? Thanks, Clay -
Last week I went to put on my winter jacket and found that I had expanded my wastline and could not zipup my jacket. So I wanted a new Tour Master trans.2. ;As I called around nobody had one. I called competition accessories and they were out too. But the sales said he had other jackets and the price was negotiable. Well he offered me a Fieldsheer Quattro in high Vis yellow for the same price as the Tour master, $152. I think I got a good deal. Also bought Calela's gore-tex Pinnacle glove for $50,in reviews a guy said he wore then in -25 degrees and his hands were warm. Glove is used in Alaska in dog sleigh racing. Hope they are as warm as they say. tew47
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The manual says to basically drain the reservoir, break the lines (make a big mess) and then pull the unit out. Does somebody have some "person info and maybe a few tricks"? My master "seems" fine but I've never had her open, the reservoir looks like junk (salt corrosion) and I just happened to come across a rebuild kit. It might have to be a winter project but I'm sure it's better to get the thing out and cleaned rather than wait until it "requires" it. The fluid has been flushed and still looks great but so did the clutch until I purged the line with air pressure and quite a bit of crystaline crud flew out. Thanks, Mike -
I don't know how everyone else's clutch is, but on my Venture, there has always been a fair bit of lever movement to operate the clutch, I have had to top up the cylinder periodically (though it had never become any worse) since buying it eleven years ago and it has been prone to getting bubbles in the line. A couple of months ago I was greasing the pin and checking it for wear when I noticed that the pin (asymmetrical with a shoulder/seal part way down) could be replaced the other way round, thus giving the piston much more movement. Like this the clutch was much better, but it did weep brake fluid. Not drastically, but a couple of months and 4,000 miles later (we did a long Summer trip) the clutch master cylinder was empty. If it gets no worse I'm tempted to keep it as it is, but I'm looking for a rebuild kit. Has anyone else had any reason to play with these ? -
I was doing a end of summer checkover on the bike. I discoverd that someone at one time broke the Brakes master cylinder resoivoir for the rear brakes and the welded it back up. we ll they welded up the filler hole plug as well so I cant check rear brake fluid. All Yamaha parts dealers say the part is available if I buy the $490.00 real master cylinder assembly. I just want the outer housing for the resoivoir. anyone find a source for this thing? or am I stuck buying the overpriced full assembly. -
Bob Meyer and his friend just arrived in SLC safely. Bob ('86 Venture) called and he is having difficulty getting his clutch to release. My initial thought is that because of the elevation change from Kentucky to Utah that the system has additional pressure and that if we open the master cylinder cap that will relieve it and his system will function normally again. Any ideas or suggestions before I go home from work would appreciated. Dave
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Hello, I've about had it.... Started out with clutch/ slave master cylinder and a stuck shifter problem... Clutch and shifting problem seem to be pretty much resolved, but in trying to finish up the job I'm having a terrible time with the bleeding. I've reverse bled the clutch about 5 times.Tried it the standard way several times, also left the clutch lever tied down overnight... What happens is I bleed the air out, pump the clutch handle about 3-5 times and by then the pressure is so hard I can only move the lever about 1/2 inch. Rebleed and same thing......over and over and over...:bang head: I've taken the master cyl. apart and put it back together twice...Followed the diagram exactly..same thing...Slave is new and work fine..... Push rod from slave works fine, clutch is good.....I've run a very fine wire throught the pinhole in the master cyl.... What the heck is the problem here??? I need some new answers or suggestions... I'm all out of ideas??? Clay
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Looking for spring that goes in the brake light switch under right front master , need spring or the size of it, Thanks Yoop
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Well I have the factory light bar for my bike but I'm still waffling on what switch to buy. So far I've gotten a switch to put in the fairing but changed my mind so I bought a billet switch to mount on the handlebar. Now I don't think I want that one either. Bummer recommended the Kuryakyn switch that mounts on the master cylinder. I like it but haven't seen one in real life. Does it slide over the master cylinder reservoir or simply sit on top? http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/images/image_18259_200.jpg Here is another brand. It looks like it either slides over the reservoir or is a replacement. Note the cover is on top. I'm really interested in this one because it looks like I can mount my Hoon XM radio mount on top. Anyone know about this style? http://www.wingstuff.com/pgroup_detail/361_Accessory_Switches/20159_Chrome_Brake_Side_LED_Accessory_Switch_Block/?goto=%2Fpgroup_list%2Fgl1800%2F361_goldwing_Accessory_Switches%2Fdes%2F http://www.wingstuff.com/images//store1/pgroups/20159_image1.gif
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Rear master cylander for '86 up Venture. I am updating my braking system in the front and found out from Rick at Buckeye that the master cylanders are larger for the 4 piston calipers. I have the front master cylander but not a rear one. So if anyone has an extra they want to part with let me know...
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This might sound stupid but were is the rear master cylin i looked in my repair book but it dosent show its location. I removed the chrome dcover behind the brake pedal but didnt see it is it on the left side maybe? i didnt get a chance tonight to look there yet
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Does the 2nd Gen front master cylinder have a bigger bore then the 1st Gen and does it have wires for brake fluid level like the 1 st Gen? -
This new product is hydraulic brake control valve. This little valve replaces your existing banjo bolt. You can use this part in the master cylinder or caliper. If you have 2 calipers in the front, but it it the master cylinder to run both calipers. The reason for that is, we are relieving the initial grab in the brake system, or a pressure spike. There are four different levels of this part depending how you like to ride or how you like the feel of the breaks. This part also gets your shocks involved. The shocks absorb majority of the wieght instead of the ground or tire. This part also saves 3 times the wear and tear on your pads. The easiest way to discribe how it feels is, like the brakes in a car without the ABS reaction. The hard you apply the faster you slow down. The TCB valve will not completely prevent lock up. The lock up is later in the braking prosses.Just lock up happens when you want it to. Please ask as many questions you might have. Again thanks for the support. Regards Zach
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Where can one get the parts to rebuild the front master cylinder? Has anyone does this? Just exactly how much of a pain in the ass is it?
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I just bought a 1986 Venture and it has no pressure on the clutch lever - 0. Fluid reservor is full. Master cyl bad? How do I bleed the system? Thanks
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