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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
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It made a big difference:thumbsup2: ....bled and changed the fluid, and now the clutch feels like it engages better? (more solid feel , to it). it was just over 3 yrs old. anybody else experience this?
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Well I just did the clutch upgrade on my '09 RSTD with about 1700 miles on it. Took about 2 hours altogether including cleanup and pulling the discs out after realizing I left the washer in there. Good thing I checked the excellent writeup on the site to make sure I was on the right track. All in all it was not to hard but I did worry when I got to the wire, was not sure how to get that out without breaking it. The half disc was hard to get out because it is in there so deep. Any way the clutch pull is a little harder as people have said. I think the friction zone is slightly larger but it engages later on in the travel. I think that is a function of it grabbing better. Any way time will tell. Not sure how you would be able to get that wire back in there if you were to go back to stock. David
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Well I did it again, and this time its a deader.. I went on another Advanced rider's course this evening and once again, I cooked my clutch on the 2006 RSV, so badly that there absolutely nil clutch effect when the clutch lever is released out completely.. I can sit there in first gear, clutch fully out and nothing happening.. in any gear for that matter. wow. This past spring, the same thing happened, and the clutch plates were cooked. I had since replaced the whole thing with new steels and friction plates and everything was fine until tonight. I was careful not to over rev the engine, gentle on the controls etc, and even had a fresh oil change yesterday (dino oil).. but during one of the exercises, the clutch let go completely causing me to lose torque to the rear wheel and dropping the bike (no big deal).. I picked it up, did a run on the side of the course and realized the clutch was slipping completely.. oh oh.. I pulled the bike over and shut it down.. I know I did not hear the rad fan running before shutting it down. When we started a new exercise, I then discovered I could not pull away at all in first or any gear.. oh oh.. oh no. I let the bike cool down for an hour. I tried it again but no dice. I had no clutch what so ever. Now I know there is something not right with the clutch system on the bike causing this premature and unwarranted clutch failures. I'm not over revving the engine, not abusing the clutch. And I practice slow riding a lot on the bike but never had any issues until tonight, but tonight it's more sustained than my usual practice periods. Here's what I did notice: The Clutch reservoir is lower than it was when I started. I do not recall ever hearing the radiator fan ever coming on.. I mention this because the other liquid cooled bikes on the course had their fans humming loudly.. the borrowed bike (1500 nomad) is liquid cooled and its fan roared on several times.. But I do not remember hearing mine to be honest.. So here's what I am wondering.. is it possible I cooked the engine oil and thus the clutch if the bike wasn't being properly cooled when the fan wasn't coming on? Is it possible the master cylinder is pooched causing an issue to prematurely burn out the clutch plates? I have the PCW (sp) heavy duty clutch spring installed and had taken out the half disks and installed a full disk as per their instructions. I had not experience any issues at all this summer on the bike's clutch system until tonight (well over 15,000 miles this summer already) So tomorrow morning the bike is being dropped off at a local shop.. I'll be asking them to change out the clutch master cylinder kit as the current one shows signs of abuse and deterioration etc, perhaps its allowing air to enter the system or clutch fluid to leak out.. I'll get them to flush out the fluid as well. I will be asking them to check the rad cooling system, perhaps there is something amiss causing the bike to overheat, cooking the oil, killing the clutch.. Its not me abusing the hell out of the clutch that is killing it, but something is not right with the bike that when abused, causes a premature failure of the clutch system.. When the smoke clears, I'll let you know what was discovered, if anything, as to what caused all this.. Blargh!!!
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My bike with 17k miles has developed a spongy clutch lever problem and bike won't go into neutral. This has all happened in less than a week. Don't see any leaks and clutch reservoir is full. Any thoughts?
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So I have purchased the clutch upgrade from Earl and plan on doing it in the next week or so. I have reviewed all of the posts that I could find and think I have a good feel on how to do it, but I have a few questions to make sure I understand. I have posted the clutch drawing from the parts fiche. So I understand that the part labeled 4 is the wire, this is discarded. The posts on the site say to 'break' the wire. What is it attached to exactly and do you break it or can you just reach in and cut it with a pair of dykes? Is it just lockwire or is it a cable of some sort? It is called a Ring, Clutch Boss. Part number 5,6,7, and 8 are unique in that they are all the only one of their type. Which one is the 1/2 plate and besides 4 which other parts are discarded (besides 12 I know that is the spring) I am thinking 7 is the half and is replaced. Anyway if someone has done this mod recently I would much appreciate the input. David
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I completed installing the PCW clutch upgrade kit last night and it went together very easily as others have stated. The clutch appears to be working and there is absolutely no slipping. However, I have a question about the friction zone. With the original spring it seemed that the clutch started grabbing when the lever was about 1/2 way out and there was 3/4 of an inch or so of friction zone. With the upgrade it seems that the friction zone is only about the last 1/4 inch of lever travel before the lever is free. It makes me wonder if the clutch is fully engaging. I still have about 1/4 inch of free travel in the lever after fully engaged. Is this consistent with other's experience? Dennis
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Im going to need a clutch resevoir that has good sight lenses in it, I will be screwing up the one on the bike to extract the screws that are all bugered up. some people should not be allowed to use tools!! I wanted to check the fluid levels, sight glasses are completely fogged, pulled the chrome covers and the screws are completely messed up I will have to drill them out to get the covers off. If anyone has one Im looking for one let me know ,Thanks.
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OK...when stopped (stopped only)...and I have to feather the clutch, I hear a "CREAKING" sound coming from the clutch lever. I can also barely feel this creaking. Looking at it, I think I can see a rubber boot (maybe not)...so I am afraid to oil it until I hear from some of you. Any suggestions or comments on this... Wally
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Just made $10 donation....$5 for laying the bike over in sand....I detailed that one on the Watering hole shortly after I first joined the group. about 2 weeks later I tried to bleed the clutch but I guess I didn't do it well enough. It was fine at first...but after a few days the air must have moved and all of a sudden the clutch wouldn't completely disengage. I tried to limp home...I was way out in the middle of nowher and was going to putt thru a stop sign....BUT wouldn't you know it...at the last second a see a truck coming! There was no time to find neutral...so I just pulled in the clutch...put on the brakes. BUT....between the bike still pulling and the gravel under my left foot....over she goes! Really I just laid it over. CHA CHING! One good thing....at least I got to try out the method I learned here on picking the beast up! $5 more!....at this rate I'm not sure If I can afford this bike! LOL
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Alright, I'll throw this out here and see what peculates up. For the past couple of months my left elbow area has been acting up. Not sure if it is the joint or muscle. Clutching sucks and is painful. Picking a cup/sugarbowl of the cabinet shelf is uncomfortable at best and flexing my arm after having it in a steady position (like riding) for a while definitely gets my attention. I can't quit work (duh!), I can't switch hands, I've tried a tennis brace, auto clutch might be nice but won't make the problem go away , advil doesn't do anything and chiropractic adjustments don't help either. Anyone had this and what did you do to make it go away? Thanks!
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Hey Everyone, I will be traveling to Don's Maint. Day by car this year due to my recent back surgery, and I will have replacement Clutch Diaphragm Springs for anyone that purchased a Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit over the past few months. I will also have complete kits with the new spring for First and Second Gen. bikes as well as a Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit for the MKI VR, which uses a set of 6 compression springs instead of one Diaphragm Spring. Because of my present physical condition, I WILL NOT BE WORKING ON MOTORCYCLES! But I will have many of the Items I have listed in the Classifieds with me for sale. I will mail a new spring to anyone that I miss at Maint. Day or anyone that doesn't attend. Thanks for your patience and understanding, it will be a pleasure to see everyone at Maint. Day again this year. Also, thanks for the kind words and prayers from everyone while I was down, and most of all, thanks to the people that helped Jean while I was down, she was very grateful, as was I. Earl and Jean
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I'm about to turn over 40,000 miles on my bike and I'll be leaving for a 4500 mile trip through the CO mountains in a few weeks. Is the clutch something that I should be concerned about? What is the normal life for a clutch. I do a lot of city riding so I may use the clutch more than some of you. I'll replace it before the trip if I'm getting close to the useful life of the clutch. Dennis
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There was another thread but not sure where it is about the clutch upgrade. The one where you add the full disc and remove some other parts. I actually done that a couple of years ago and was never really happy with it. I didn't like the clutch engagement point or even the way it acted. A month or so the thing started slipping again. 75K miles on the bike. I was checking all my options, barrnet spring etc. What I ended up doing was ordering all new parts from Yamaha. Clutch is real solid, engagement point is where it should be and I'm happy again. Kind of reinforces what I have thought all along, original parts and sizing always seem to work best. BOO
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Went for a ride this morning and the clutch lever started getting very easy to pull in and the then had problems getting it to go into gear and of course wanted to creep forward while in first gear stopped. Can't see it being the clutch since it's a 96 with only 4800 miles. Possibly a clutch master rebuild? -
Ok I ordered a complete set of speedbleeders for my bike,the first project is bleed all the fluid from my clutch and replace with new.Someone that has done this please send a basic "how to do this" from beginning to end with speedbleeders. While I was in Colorado it seemed as if overnight the fluid got very dark colored and I lost alot of my feel in my clutch pull.The clutch was still very strong but after I got back down to camp I had my original feel on the clutch lever but fluid very dark. Last year Condor told me how to reverse bleed but I do not have the tools or know how to do that so my next best hope is I bought the speedbleeders. Thanks,Tom.
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So I was reading a little while ago on a thread where Goose wanted a different gearing ratio so that he could ride at a little HIGHER RPM to imprive gas mileage. That seems backward. What is the best RPM to be cruising at on this bike??? I come from a 2 cylinder, so there I was used to keeping it low- like 2000-2500ish... Should I be riding this at a higher RPM to get the best mileage? On a second note,when I'm kinda riding hard and gunning it in the higher RPM's, it feels like the transmission is slipping sometimes, and then slowly grabs (over a second or so), almost like the clutch is a little in, even though my hand is off the clutch. That normal?
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I have been experiencing a weird problem with my 1st gen, and I need some input from the pros . did a full cleaning , flush and rebuild of the system. the clutch is fine , after about 200 miles the clutch pressure builds in the system causing no release (high lever) and clutch slippage, I break open the bleeder and let a little out and I'm back down the road with no slippage. I have rechecked , reblead, and have no leaks. all stock levers and MC. no air in the system. any Ideas guys ?. to me it seams like a venting problem ? any one else ever have this ? -
I may have read something on here somewhere about starting an 88 venture in gear. Are you suppose to be able to start one of these bikes in gear with clutch out. I am going to work on my cruse this weekend and I know somebody said something about a clutch switch. :think:
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Hi, My blue bike's (60,000 miles) clutch friction point is noticeably closer to the bar than my red bike's (13.000 miles). Both are '84 xvz12's btw. I am trying to make up my mind whether something is deteriorating or if it is just the nature of the beast. All seems to work fine but the friction point on the blue bike is quite close to the bar and when released the lever does not fully return to the all the way out position leaving a big dead zone where the lever movement has no tension on it at all. The friction point is quite useable and comfy for my hand, but now I have two bikes I can't help but notice differences. Perhaps its just me being anal or perhaps I have some work to do. I am going to flush the fluid with fresh but meanwhile, these questions occur to me: As the clutch friction surfaces wear, am I correct to assume that the friction point comes closer to the bar? I read about weak clutch springs on these bikes, does this scenario fit the description for that? How big a job is it to supplement clutch springs as some describe doing on these old gals? Other suggestions ? Thanks, Brian H.
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I noticed that a company named Hinson makes clutch baskets for numerous motorcycles, including some Yamahas. I wonder if there would be enough business for them to engineer one for the 2nd gens, that might be a better solution to the engine whine than the iffy I-basket from Yamaha? I haven't contacted the compnay, and a quick internet search doesn't find the manufacturer, only resellers....
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I ordered an I basket, case gasket, and new lock washer from Partshark.com, 1 week ago today. Mad props to Partshark. The best prices around, fast shipping, and great communication. I received 4 emails from them telling me exactly the status of my order. UPS delivered them today. Also huge thanks to Jeff (Cougar) on this site. I'd sent him a note, asking for some advice and he responded with his TX number and invited me to give him a call. Not only did he give me some good information, but with the owner Joe's (wingrider) permission he mailed to me a clutch tool to use. I'm a fair wrench, but having never been inside an RSV before I wanted to take my time and not miss anything, so it took me about an hour and a half from start to finish. Maybe 20 minutes of that was spent scraping the old gasket off the case. This is an absolutely easy change out. The only snag came when I went to reinstall the clutch cover and spring. I didn't realize at first that you need to compress the clutch actuation rod back into the transmission input shaft before you start bolting the cover and spring into place. I hadn't read where anyone mentioned this in my research, but after playing with for it 15 minutes or so I figured it out. The cover needs to set tight against the disc face. I finished the job just about the time it was starting to rain so I didn't ride far, but the couple mile run around the block was relatively quit. I really won't know for sure but it seems to be about 70% quieter. If this winds up being what I get for my $300, I'm a happy camper. Again thanks to everyone that has helped. Pictures, words, stories, tools, you all made this a lot easier than it might have been. Oh, the basket that was in there was an "G" basket.
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I bought a Brake Bleeder made by Motion Pro http://www.motionpro.com/images/items/08-0143.jpg I used it for the first time today. Did my new-used Millennium Model brakes, front & rear OK. Started bleeding my clutch and noticed that bubbles were being sucked back into the line when I released the clutch lever. I checked to make sure the arrow on the one-way valve was pointed away from the bike, and it was... Pumped it again to confirm the situation... No doubt I now have air in my clutch line. I don't think this happened while doing my brakes, but I'll be cautious with them at first. Bled the clutch line by opening and closing the bleeder valve with a wrench each time I squeezed the clutch. A number of air bubbles came out. Time for a test ride to see if its ok.
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Does any one Know what clutch basket is in a 2008 venture ? G would be my thinking. Dont Know if I should order the "I" basket or what. it sounds like there many posibilities. Asked the stealer He dont have any idea of what is in it with out looking. Has any one changed one on a 08? what letter basket was in it? And did the new one help! thanks!
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Hello everyone, Did the clutch upgrade(2nd gen). Installed new extra disk, removed wire, half disc, 2 rings. cross sanded the plates, soaked all the disk in fresh Rotella. re-installed with two notches on disc all aligned, installed pressure plate to marks, put new spring on, ring that holds bolts. Bike has 45k, but was barely slipping in 3rd gear with two up and pulling trailer. NOW watched the pressure plate move freely with clutch handle engage, disengage. put the cover back on, fill up oil. Took for a spin..............slips with barely any throttle. must have missed sumptn.!!!! Any good suggestions on what I missed .....hate to think I have to find another gasket. Leaving on the 3rd of June for a 3000mile trip. Clutch lever feels even weaker than before...also clutch doesn't engage until it is almost totally released. Jim -
With all the great knowledge on this site, I am sure some one here can answer my question. The clutch pulley gave out on my truck's AC compressor. With 278,000 miles on the original compressor, I figure better to just replace the compressor rather than put a new clutch pulley on. Warranty info on all the comps. I have looked at say that the accumulator and/or drier has to be replaced also. Up until the pulley gave out, the system blew nice and cold. Aside from warranty issue on the remaned compressor, will the system be compromised and likely to fail if I do not replace the other part(s)?
