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Showing results for tags 'bearings'.
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Hi all, Building a tag along, and noticed that when spinning the wheels, there is a pronounced "wobble" in the wheels. Took the hubs out, re packed bearings, re installed, seated bearings, and still have the wobble. There is no movement in the bearing/hub... Placed a square along the axle with some gap between tore and square.... On rotation, a portion of tire till contact square, and then not. This happens on both sides of the axle, both wheels. Any sugestions. I am in the king of Prussia pa area.
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So....if you remove the insert from the wheel can the needle bearings fall out or are they caged to prevent this happening? Thanks...............
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I took my bike to the local shop to get some work gone and got the bike back yesterday. What a grocery list of work to be done.. I might have been able to get some if not most of it done myself but didn't have the confidence of tackling it alone.. (A) Early this summer when I had my front tire replaced by an out of town company, they managed to munge up the axle threads in the fork. When my local shop saw this they expressed concerns that it should beefed up with a heli-coil kit. The kits are expensive around here, I never saw one but would imagine gold plating and diamond studs for the price they were asking. A subsequent road trip into the USA showed me where to get them for $50 or so.. So new wheel bearings, covers, axle etc and heli-coil insert got that all done proper and more secure / safer.. (B) Neck bearings.. When visiting Goose in June, he gave the neck bearings a much needed 'tightening', and indicated that there was still some front to back play in the bearings.. They should be OK for a while but that they really do need to be repacked / replaced.. If someone is going through all that trouble to gain access to the bearings to repack them, might as well spend the additional $20 on new bearings eh? So now, wow, what a HUGE difference that makes.. the front end is tighter feeling, more confidence in turns, tracks much better. Doesn't feel sloppy anymore. Though the bike was safe to ride before the change, it wasn't as sure footed as my buddy's bike.. but now? wow. © Front forks servicing and progressive Spring installation. New seals and syn oil put in the front forks.. New progressive springs do wonders for a bike.. I have them in my VStar and loved them, and decided to put them in the Venture and oh my gosh.. what a gorgeous feel to this bike NOW.. Coupled with the new neck bearings, the bike tracks well in turns and straight line but eats up the sharp bumps and cracked and obstacles.. And when you apply your front brakes, the bike doesn't dive to the pavement anymore. At an intersection you could pump the front brakes and watch your headlight beam fly up and down.. not anymore.. yes, it's a stiffer ride but a more confident feeling ride.. WOW. I like it a lot. Got a week of rain unfortunately so i can't take it out to test it properly until this weekend. But the ride home yesterday really impressed me a lot.. wow. zero air pressure in the shocks is recommended unless you notice you need air in them.. In the oem set up I used to pump them up to 5 or 7 psi.. and they were still floppy.. now, wow,, nice!! Now, I'm just waiting for the new rear shock to come in.. They had a production problem this fall that caused a delay in shipping.. but I'm patient.. Once the Werks shock comes in I'll be installing it and testing the bike out, putting her through the paces.. A good wad of coins spent but worth every penny thus far.. Progressive springs, I am confident they will be all that they lived up to be in my VStar.. -
Neighbor came over tonight to take the bearings out of the Harbour Freight trailer wheels. He has done it before. I haven't done it at all so wanted someone to walk me through it. Got a couple questions that hopefully someone will be able to answer before we repack the bearings tomorrow. 1) Do the rubber seals (looks like a rubber ring really) need to be replaced. They look to be in really good condition. I know the previous owner of the trailer barely used it. 2) With the bearings in, there is a cavity in between them. Looks like the grease fitting is just for that cavity. Does that entire cavity need to be filled w/ grease? It certainly wasn't when we pulled the bearings out. Thanks
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Hey, just got done with my 16000 mile oil change and I noticed in the manual it said to repack the steering and swingarm bearings. My question is is this somthing I I can do myself? The bike has yet to go to the dealer for anything, I've done all the oil changes and tire changes myself. even took the tires off the wheels and reinstalled on my own, Iv'e had the bike up on the jack and done the steering handle bar swing, can't feel any thing loose. It acts like its supposed to. I did notice today when i got off the Interstate and was braking pretty hard I got a slight vibration in the front wheel. Really don't want to take it to the dealer and leave it for two weeks like they want,(or spend way more money than I have to fix it) -
This is an update to my previous front bearing question. Here is the general info on the bearings:file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/user/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.png http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=yamaha+venture+front+bearings&_sacat=10063&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=&_osacat=10063&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=yamaha+venture+front+bearings&_sacat=10063&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=&_osacat=10063&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313 All the bearings and seal required to refit a wheel in one convenient package. -Premium high-speed bearings feature low drag, double lip seals on both sides to provide superior exclusion of water and dirt and improved grease retention. -High performance Chevron SRI-II grease features special rust inhibitors for the most demanding applications. -Type TC, Nitrile Elastomer wheel seals are specifically designed to keep out water and dirt. The rubber coated outside diameter creates an optimum seal at the hub. -Made by All Balls. Hope this clarifies my question. The blue seal can be removed and reset. cimack77
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Sealed Bearing Question?
cimack77 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Just got a set of sealed bearings for the front end of my 1988. Question is the bearings are pre-greased but seem so very little, should I pack or use them as is. Thanks cimack77 -
Ok Gurus, here's my dilemna; I bought an 86 Venture Royale late last summer. I love the bike, it's what I wanted. I didn't care much for the low speed handling but I new the tires where at the end of their life span and would be replacing them over the winter months along with some regular maintenance like changing the fork oil, regreasing the wheel bearings, regreasing the suspension links including adding grease fittings, adjusting the steering head bearings (they were to tight)and fixing the class system. I believe I did everything that I could based on searching posts on this forum. The bike handles much better but at very slow speeds (like approaching a full stop) the bike gets very unstable or feels tippy? The slightest lean either way to correct seems to overcorrect. Several times I felt like i was going to drop the bike. Is top heavy an issue with these bikes or did I miss something when I went over the bike this winter? I'm at the point where I'm considering selling it before I hurt myself or damage the bike. Thanks, Paul
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I have a 1st generation.It is in pretty good shape.My question is when you are going between 103 and 116 kph,there is a high pich noise coming from the front of the motor.I have done the wheel bearings and replaced the front tire.Can anyone tell me what this could be.Thanks
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I have tried to read every thread related to this. Several members have said that it is possible to repack these bearings without removing the fairing. Any description or tips on how to do this would be very much appreciated. Thanks -
Is the top and bottom bearings the same on the fork head on a 83. Had to cut the bottom bearing off. This must of been my problem with the steering not going striaght.Also sould there be a seal on the bottom. Had someone come over to trade bikes. He basicly told me my bike was not worth anything.he had a 99 suzuki 500 and wanted me to give him 1500 plus my venture. thanks Doug
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I know that new bearings on big machinery can get a bit hot, sometimes to the point of boiling the grease, until they wear in. Just wondered about smaller ones, like say car or m/c wheel bearings? My guess is they do to some extent & I bet some of you guys will know for sure. Tony.
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For those of you that have replaced/repacked the Swing Arm bearings, did you replace the bearings seals or were you able to somehow got them out without destroying the seals? If you somehow got out, how?
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My '86 Venture has felt kinda unhappy on the road lately.... as most of you know that is not normal for a Venture. I got home from my ride today and put it up on the center stand and with my wife as a helper I gave the wheels a good shaking. It seems that the rear wheel has play in, I assume, the bearings. My question then is..... is there supposed to be some play? How much? The front wheel seems to have none.... should there be? Are wheel bearings still available from Yamaha ? I will have to also assume that at least the right hand bag and I suppose both mufflers will need to be taken off to remove the rear wheel.... is there a tech link on a "how to ...." for the rear wheel some place here I can refer to? I know from reading others calls for help I will get lots so thank you up front. Kevin
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OK hear my story and I'm sticking to it Back in Dec. there was a discussion about packing the bearings in the steering head. I stated that I had Installed a ZERK in my 04 RSV (as I have done in about 50 different type of bikes). Another member tried it and had a problem 05 model I think, he had put 14oz in his and it still was not coming out. I then tried putting a Zerk in the steering head of a 03 and had the same problems. I said I would find out why and this is what I found. there is a small hole about 1/8 inch in diameter and 1' below the the bearing race in the tube on the back side On my 04 it appeared to be welded from the out side from the factory. My fix was to weld up his from the in side which I did and now his also can be greased Will out pulling the bike apart. what I wanted to know is if this hole is in your bike (it can only be seen when you pack the bearings) and is it open or welded up .this is the first time I have come across something like this. I can not image that this is left open by the factory as water could get in the steering head bearings. I have no ideal why it is there except to poss let the welding gas out when manufactured The pitures are taken standing in frount of bike looking in to the steering head 1 one is of hole 2 is after repaires
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Well I got a question, Im into Phase 2 of the Firefighter RSV and part of it is polishing the outside ring of the wheels and powdercoating the spokes the color of the bike. I think I know my answer but do I need to remove and replace the wheel bearings or can it be done without removing them. Dont really want to mess with them but If I need too I will. Scotty
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I have a dumb question here. If it has been answered many times before, my apologies. I've spent a good amount of time searching and did not find a direct answer to my question. I've done wheel bearings on cars and trucks numerous times, but never on a bike. I don't really know a whole lot about them other than to take them out, spin them to check for flat spots, smooth rolling, etc. then grease the crap out of them and then put them back in. I am looking to replace the front bearings on my 01 RSV (I have ~40k miles on it. got the bike at ~28k. Full records of dealer recommended services within 50 miles of the recommended service point), found them on partshark.com for $10.97/piece. My questions are: 1) Is that a reasonable price, or would hitting an autoparts store for a generic replacement (if possible) be a better way to go. 2) Is it just a single wide 'bearing' or are there two (one for each side) -- (I know, probably a dumb question, but I figured it was better to ask then order the wrong number of them) -- DO'H, Found the answer to this on the next fiche I checked. 2, duh. 3) Do I need to grease them before I put them on? Can the old ones simply be re-greased and reinstalled? (I figured for 20 bucks for a set, I might as well just replace them even if they can be greased ) 4) Do I need new oil seals (I presume 2 of them; ie. one for each side)? 5) Any other parts that will need to get the job done? Like I said, I know, some dumb questions - but I much rather ask and then get it done right the first time than what the other options could lead to. Thanks a lot folks! Oh yea, for what it is worth, most of my riding is in what would typically be considered 'extremely dusty conditions'. Thank you very much west Texas... EDIT: I vaguely recall some folks either ordering bearings (possibly OEM from a dealer) and getting the wrong ones. Was that an issue with the dealer goofing up, or is it an incorrect part number on the fiche? -- This is also why I wanted to ask this question... -
Here is a shortcut to check the amount of grease in your steering head bearings. The problem here is that the service interval for re-greasing the steering head bearings is every 16,000 miles, but on the RSV, the amount of work it takes (and therefore, MONEY it takes) to access these bearings is HUGE! And it gets exponentially worse if someone has added a bunch of accessories and new wiring inside the fairing. The entire fairing, both outer shell and inner shell, must be removed before the top triple tree can be removed to access the bearing lock nuts. And to remove the inner fairing, you have to totally disconnect every single wire, plug and component inside the fairing! In fact, this whole process is supposedly required to simply ADJUST the steering head bearings, but thankfully we have documented a quick and easy shortcut to sneak underneath and adjust them without removing a single part. But back to the problem at hand - it is a full day's work to properly strip everything to drop the forks out of the steering head and inspect/de-grease the bearings. But I think I have found a relatively easy way to at least check the top bearing without going through the entire process. After splitting the fairing, the inner fairing can be unbolted by simply removing two nuts behind the top of the headlight and two socket-head bolts, one on either side of the bottom of the headlight. Once these are removed the fairing can be pulled several inches forward without disconnecting any of the wires, enough to fully access the top triple tree. With someone to hold the fairing, you could remove the triple tree and the top bearing without much more effort. Certainly the top bearing can be inspected and greased in this way, and if it looks like the bearings really need to be serviced, you could then just put the inner fairing back on the two studs and proceed to disconnect all the stuff needed to properly remove the forks. It seems possible that with enough care (and probably three people), one might even lower the forks enough in the steering head to access and grease the lower bearing this way. I think I am ready to try and make a video of this process if I can find a couple of folks willing to spend a day helping me through it. Goose
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I would like a little help diagnosing this sound and determining if I need to do something about it. I first noticed a squeak that seemed to go with wheel rotation at very low speeds a few days ago. I put the bike up on a lift, pulled off the calipers and spin the front wheel. What I find is that the wheel spins more freely than the back one and makes no noise unless I spin it very very slowly. Then there is a little squeak/groan sometimes (no grinding, just a squeak) - but it does not occur at the same wheel orientation every time it happens. I hope this is a reasonable enough description... My question is is this a sign that the front wheel bearings are going? Is there a better way to check the bearings? If it is not the bearings what else could it be? Oh yea; I've read through everything I could find under front wheel squeak, front wheel bearings, wheel bearings, etc. and nothing described what I am experiencing. My apologies if this is something that has been discussed before... Thanks a lot for your help. - Rick
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Well, I just got done helping another member replace the worn out steering head bearings in his RSV - what a nasty job! Most of us know that Yamahaha doesn't add much lube to bearings on the initial build, so it is pretty important you get in there and lube them at least once on the specified maintenance interval. But it is a big, nasty, and long job (and expensive if you have the dealer do it). I've seen a few folks suggest that you might as well just ignore it and wait until the bearings are shot around 50,000 miles, then just properly lube the replacements. Well, I'm here to tell you that is a bad plan. Much better to keep them in shape from the beginning. The bike we worked on had a bit over 70,000 miles, and the owner was complaning about lots of head shake and an unsteady feeling when coming off the line. When we first checked it out, the front forks had a LOT of slop when pulled front/back with the wheel off the ground. Using the quick technique to tighten down the bearings, we got a huge amount of movement out of the ring nuts, but even after they were tight enough to almost stop the free motion of the forks (where the tire will turn all the way to the stop under it's own weight), the same slop was still in the bearings. No option at that point except changing the bearings! When we got in there, the wear pattern on the inner race for the top bearing was very heavy at the front only (which explains why they had so much front/back play), and the lower race showed major wear marks in line with each individual roller. This showed that the bearing was so loose for so long that the rollers never actually moved in the race! Most interesting was the actual condition of the roller bearings - although there was not a lot of lube in there, this 03 with 70K+ miles still had some, and the rollers all looked pretty good, no pitting or corrosion at all. The message here is that if they had simply been kept properly adjusted, they would have been just fine even after 70,000 miles without a single service! Too bad. The work needed to change the bearings is pretty much the same as what you have to do just to lube them, but I'll tell ya that you really don't want to have to pull those races from the steering head or get that lower bearing off the shaft - that job ain't no fun! Yamahaha really forked up in the design of how those races fit in the head - virtually no lip exposed at all for a puller to grip. And it took a lot of time with an oxy-acetylene torch to finally get that bottom bearing to expand enough to come loose. I normally wouldn't worry about the torch work, but all I could think about was the horror of seeing that cast aluminum lower tree start melting on me if I got a little careless!! Replacing the bearings added at least three hours to this job. Ugh. Here is a quick note on something we learned about adjusting the bearings - the tech library has an article on how to do a quick and dirty adjustment by sneaking a long screwdriver up under the steering head cover and using a hammer to turn the ring nut and lock nut together. These two nuts are locked together with a tab washer, and I always thought there was a problem trying to get much movement of these ring nuts if you didn't use something to pry the lock tabs out of the slots. You see, every other application I have ever seen using a tab washer like this has a key slot in the shaft that prevents the tab washer from turning with both nuts together. Well, not his bike! That tab washer is not tied to the shaft at all, so you can turn both ring nuts together just as far as you want! If you haven't checked your steering head bearings for proper adjustment, you really need to do it. My 05 had noticeable chatter under heavy front breaking on rough surface by about 8,000 miles, but one adjustment using the quickie method took care of it. Now with over 73,000 miles, those bearings still have no sigh of slop in them. Even if you are not going to go to all the work to lube them, best keep them adjusted! Ride safe, Goose
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can anyone tell me how critical it is to have the streering head bearings and the swingarm pivot bearings repacked? is this something that has to be done because I know this is going to eat the wallet up at the dealership. Thank in advance!
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I received my Carbon One adapter w/legs ysterday. Today I installed the upper unit (fit perfectly), lifted the bike on my Sears ATV/MC lift and performed the Freebird recipe for tightening up the steering bearings. I now have tighter steering and all is well with the world. -
when in leaning thru a curve ( More to left) Im getting a Hummm Sounds like its coming from the front but not sure. If It needs bearings is it a standard bca # Or is it a ODD duck ? Planed on going on a trip this weekend... HELP:crying:
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Hi guys, after some nice help from the lads here about tightening the steering neck bearings as a temp fix to some steering wobbles, it seems that now I'm going to have to get them either repacked or replaced.. The techs who did the tightening stated that they did not feel any flat spots so the bearings should be good as is.. just needs repacking and proper tightening.. fun.. I was perusing various cycle sites and came across this one.. listing bearings.. what's the thought on these? (if I needed to replace mine after all) http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/14/138/21652/405/PITEM/All-Balls-Steering-Stem-Bearing-Kit-2006-Yamaha-Royal-Star-1300-Venture-Parts.aspx
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Has any of the 2007 models have any problems with the front wheel bearings going yet? Now I know, I'm a little special here. My bike has 36, 875 miles on it in two years. Yes, I live in South Florida & Yes... I ride all year round, Stinks to be me LOL..... pulled the front end off, to find the bearings, were hard to turn by hand. parts on order.
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