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Showing results for tags 'carb'.
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Does any one leave there gas line open w/gas saver in it or do you drain the gas out of carb Ron
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Is there a carb rebuild kit for the first gens? Or does someone at least have a list with part numbers of all the gaskets, etc. that we need? thanx, Bill
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Not being the kinda' guy that likes to do things the easy way,But always looking to save a few bucks I purchased a set of Carb. Diaphragms off of Ebay a while back. ($86.00 with shipping) I thought I would give you a run down on how that went. After removing the False Tank cover and both side covers as well as the lower fairing legs on both sides I was able to get to all 4 Carbs. easily. To remove the Carb. covers I used 3 tools, a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a special Torx bit on it for the 4 odd screws, an impact driver with a Phillips bit in it and finally a pair of Vise Grips for 2 of those Phillips head screws that just wouldn't come out. I took out the Torx head screws first on all 4 carbs. because when you remove the last Phillips head screw, you better have your catcher's mit on, that Carb. cover is coming off...FAST! I had set up 4 shop towels on my bench and kept all of the Carb. parts separated. I held each slider assembly up to a good light to inspect them and sure enough all 4 diaphragms had holes in them. I removed the old Carb. diaphragms by gripping the slider and "rolling" the old diaphragm out from between the two flanges on the slider. Two of the old diaphragms came off in pretty bad shape. I then cleaned all of the reusable parts with Carb. cleaner , but I must say that overall everything looked pretty clean. All 4 of the sliders were nice and smooth as were the Carb. bodies on the engine. I used a clean cloth and Carb. cleaner to clean out the Carb. body bores. (I don't use paper towels for this as I would not want a shard of paper ending up in the intake or the Carb. body) With everything clean I moved on to the reassembly. The Ebay diaphragms were not made of the same material as the stock Yamaha ones, but were very pliable, and had the tab for alignment in the Carb. body. After lubing the diaphragm with aerosol spray silicone I inserted the slider into the bore of the diaphragm. When I got to the flange, I stretched the diaphragm bore over the bottom flange. Now the spacing on the two flanges of the slider seemed a bit "slim" and I panicked for a moment but realized that by using my thumb nail I could wedge the diaphragm bore between the two flanges with no problem. When all was said and done you couldn't tell that the diaphragms and the sliders were not mated at the factory. I had the slider needles out for another project I will discuss later and at this point I reinstalled them. I put the slider assemblies back in the Carb. bodies aligning the tabs, put the caps on with the Stainless Steel Allen Head Cap Screw set I have listed in the classifieds and reinstalled all of the body parts and that as they say was that! Oh yea, I accidentally spilled some paint on the Carb. caps...Oops! I have attached some pics below and am willing to chat with anyone that is interested in this rebuild. Feel free to PM me. Sorry this got a bit "windy" Earl -
Well it looks like I need a larger stator..... I only have the yamaha passing lamps and a set of Motolights and the bike cant handle it... Drains the battery.... if I turn off the 55 watt Moto lights I could save the 8.3 amps... but I bought them to be seen....... I was going to pull the plug on the carb heaters, but this is wisconsin......I ride until it snows...never too cold with the buckeye stator I hope to have more than enough power -
Noticed a funny odor coming from my bike...I discovered fuel leaking from the over flow tube from the right rear carb... Anybody have any experience dealing with this type of problem? (and how to fix) Thanks -
I've read a number of threads here that give explicit details on how to synchronize the cards on an RSV using the Morgan CarbTune...basically "make all four of the bars match". Have a look at the attachment for reference. There are a LOT of smart folks here, so here goes: What is the effect adjusting all of the carbs so that their reading matches carb 4? Does this make things too lean or too rich? What is the effect adjusting all of the carbs so that their reading matches carb 3? Does this make things too lean or too rich? What are the net effects of running too lean or too rich? Any facts, conjecture or comments would be greatly appreciated! :confused07:
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Thought I'd give y'all a little first hand observation on the operation of the RSV carb heaters. Most anyone with an interest is this subject already knows that the four carb heaters pull a combined 60 watts of electricity, the equivalent of the stock driving lights. Considering the limited extra power output of our stock charging system for things like heated clothing and such, reclaiming that 60 watts is an oft-discussed issue. But the one thing we have never really discussed is just how often and how long those carb heaters are actually on. I added a cutoff switch last year to allow me to manually shut them off if I ever wanted, and I also added an LED to let me see just when they were really on. Problem is, I honestly never remembered to actually check it anytime it would have been of value! Well, when several of us were up in Palo Duro Canyon in the Texas Panhandle this weekend, I finally had a good chance to check it out and actually remembered to do it. This discussion is NOT about the technical specifications of when the thermostat triggers the heaters to come on and go off - you can find that in the shop manual. This is about real world observation of when they are REALLY on and when you might care. I found that when the temperature is 35 degrees, the carb heaters will stay on for about 30 minutes when doing low-speed and city type riding. After about that long, the combined heat from the engine and that right rear exhaust pipe (real close to the heater thermostat) will cause them to go off and stay off (PROVIDED you continue riding in the same conditions). BUT, at highways speeds (for this test it was anything above 60 MPH), the constant blast of cold air around the bike will KEEP THE CARB HEATERS ON CONSTANTLY. If you slow down while riding through a town, they will go off, but shortly after you get back up to speed, they come right back on. As the temperature approaches 40 degrees they will go off and stay off, even while cruising at 70 MPH. So, bottom line seems to be that the value of disabling the heaters to reclaim that extra electrical power will completely depend on your type of riding and the lowest outside temperatures in which you might ride. If you never or rarely venture out on two wheels when the temperatures are below 40 degrees, you can pretty much just ignore the carb heaters - they won't be on long enough to make much of a difference for you, even if you are pushing the limit of the available electrical power. Just half an hour or so of extra drain won't make much of a difference UNLESS that is about as long as you ride each time (such as only riding to and from work instead of on a long trip). However, if you tend to ride below 40 degrees, you really should think about putting in a switch. I think the most important advice I would give anyone who has concerns about the electrical capacity on these bikes is to add a digital volt meter. I have discussed the benefits and limitations of both volt meters and ammeters in some older threads, and although neither of them alone will let you diagnose the condition of both the battery and the charging system, the volt meter alone WILL suffice to give you a heads-up when you are on thin ice. In short, if all is good, the voltage should ALWAYS be over 13.0 volts while above idle. If you see it staying at anything below 12.9 volts while riding, either your battery is on it's last legs, or you have more electrical load than your charging system can handle (while having to charge the battery too). Goose BTW - as I have stated in many other posts over the years, from my own personal measurements, the stock RSV with Yamahaha riding lights (only 30 watts each) and carb heaters on is already at max load if you are using the audio system and CB too. There just ain't nuthin left for anything else but maybe a few LED lights. Some people claim to have been using 55 watt driving lights and heated clothing for years with no problems - good for them, but it ain't so on the two RSVs I have owned. Without the proper gauges you can THINK everything is fine, but you are slowly destroying your battery. And not even "slowly" if the bike is usually run for less than an hour each time you start it! If you don't have the gauges, but still want to know if your battery is really up to snuff, just use a decent digital volt meter and touch it to the battery terminals after the bike has been sitting overnight (any reading within 3 hours of the last ride will be invalid due to a superficial "float" charge). If the battery is not at 12.9 volts, it is NOT fully charged. And like I said above, if the volt meter does not read over 13 volts (preferably about 13.8 - 14.0) when you start the bike and bring the engine above idle, then it can't even properly charge the battery if it is not already damaged, hence the "slow death" that will have you buying batteries more often than you need to.
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Will carb rebuild kits for the V-max work on 1st gen ventures? -
Anyone know the factory setting for idle and how to adjust it if needed? Had my 64k service done today and don't believe it was done correctly. I could take it back and say fix it, but if they potentially didn't do it right the 1st time... At a stop light, clutch pulled in, idles around 1100 rpm. Put it in neutral to be curious and it shot up to about 2-2100 rpm. I am pretty sure before I brought it in for service, the idle rpm speed was about the same regardless of in gear w/ clutch lever pulled all the way in or in neutral. Really not sure why it would make a difference. It practically accomplishes the same thing. Going in the highway at 65 mph, was around 2500-3k. Kinda weird that neutral and 65 mph are just about the same rpm. Also while going 65 mph, pull in the clutch lever and you can still hear the engine rev the same rmp for a few seconds instead of an instant drop. It more or less goes at the 2500-3k rpm for a few seconds and then gradually drops. I am used to an instant drop and not a delay. When shifting gears you hear the engine rev between the shifts. It runs pretty close to like it used to when going from 4th-5th. To quote the paperwork "Unit idles irratic and hangs us sometimes. Unit will need a carb. clean in the near future" Well I put in a full can of seafoam this year. Granted it could have loosened up some debris, plugged the jets, etc...but before I brought it in I wasn't complaining. It seemed to handle the same way (until after it was serviced today) since I bought the bike back in June '08 and this is the 2nd service done by this dealer. Just a guess, but I doubt the previous owner did anything for carb cleaning additives. So not sure if a carb cleaning is in order. On the 64k service they did change the plugs, synch the carbs, & adjust idle (amongs other things, they went by the 4k service). Can the comment about unit idles irratic and hangs up sometimes be related to the carbs being synched incorrectly? One of my questions (got a list made up already) to the tech on Tuesday when the shop reopens, is did he notice the irratic idle before or after the carbs were synched. I am pretty sure I know the answer, but I want to hear it from him. It was litterally at the end of the day and shop had about 10 minutes until it closed. The techs were gone except for the service manager. Asked her about the carb cleaning cost. She said and I quote "It has 2 carbs so $160" What!!!!! 2 carbs.....and you are a yamaha service manager. Just a wild guess, but I believe there are 4. I have read stories like this on this board but never happened to me until now. And also, I'll pass on the carb cleaning. The jets might need pulled to make sure there aren't any debris in them, but I ain't gonna pay to have it done for that much and based on my past 2 experiences w/ them, I ain't gonna let them touch the carbs. Too much knowledge on this board and also people that can help out if need be. I also mentioned to her that it's weird that it needs the carbs cleaned since I put in a can of seafoam earlier in the year. She said yeah, that stuff works ok, but sometimes you just have to pull the carbs all apart to get them really clean. Quick poll of '99 owners that have taken their carbs all apart to clean them or felt it was necessary. Thanks
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During Vogel I used Stevew's carb tune to do a carb sync. When I hooked up the carb tune I found that my #2 cylinder was showing no pressure whatsoever. I was able to sync the remaning three cylinders. Now I'm faced with figuring out why I have no intake pressure on the #2 cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas what to look for? -
what should my voltage be when running at speed,: 50 w driving lights wired directly, sylvania ultra headlight, rear running light/turn signal/ brake light,....carb heaters probably on, 4 month old battery, buckeye stator........ and if not correct....why....and what to test.......
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I have yet to order a CarbTune and I just flat out have not had the time to make my own yet and I still need a tachometer but I've been reading a lot lately about the signs that lead one to believe that it is time to do a carb sync and I feel that my bike is due... So here it is; Is there someone in or near west Texas that has a equipment, know-how, time, and patience to meet up with me and give me a hand syncing my carbs? I have an 01 RSV and am in Lubbock, Texas. I'll certainly be happy to meet you wherever and at your convenience of course. Thanks in advance! - Rick M.
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:bang head:hi all i have a full exhaust on my rstd i just bought. and they did not jet the carb. is there a jet kit out there for a 05 rstd. i cant find one.
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will the carbs from a 1200 work on my 1300?
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Noticed that carb boot for #1 cylinder is wet and seems to bubble from under the band. Tried to tighten it but it seems as tight as it gets. Is this an indication of a crack in the boot?
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Screamstone, Wanderer, Dave38x, Mechanic and myself went through and did the obvious maintenance, oil front and back, brake and clutch fluids replaced, checked brake pads front and back, carb sync then poured seafoam in. Ruffy, if Screamstone stops by, do a carb sync again. He will have a couple of tanks through by the time he gets there tomorrow and after the seafoam sets overnight at Savanah. http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/venturerider/Sleeperhawks%20Mechanic%20Screamstone%2020090829/
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help me troubleshoot my '87
nateo posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Long story short, the engine idles a little rough, has poor power and won't run without the choke on. It'll idle with the choke off, but it dies when you try to take off. Had the bike sitting in storage for about 2 years. Gas was untreated. It didn't run at all when I started working on it. Here's what I've done: I thought it was bad gas, so i drained the tank and fuel lines/pump/filter. Put it back together with fresh gas. Sprayed a ton of Thrust and Deep Creep into the carb and it runs now. Put Seafoam into the carb, and into the fuel tank, which helped the idle a very small amount, but didn't make a big difference. I did notice that one carb moves more than the other ones. Any advice on what I should do next? I'm not 100% sure if the carbs were varnished, and if they were varnished, if they're cleaned out now. Is there a way to check if the carb is clean enough? Should I sync the carbs if they may be partially varnished, or is that a waste of time? -
Well my new to me 84 VR has a little carb trouble.It will start and run on the first click on the choke .Well last night I put berrymans carb cleaner and 2 new gallons of mid grade gas in it.Started the bike up let it run on choke to warm up ,took choke off ran the throttle by hand to get the idle to stay at 1000 on the tach. The bike purred great where or how can I adjust the idle to stay there.I am a good car mechanic but this bike thing is pretty new to me,so pics would be helpful. Thanks
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was looking to borrow or pay to use a carb sync, i am in southern IN clarksville,scottsburg,,ect any help would be great i am at 17 k and i know its never been done on my 02 rsmv will meet up or what ever thanks in advance for any help God bless
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I did the carb sync this morning....All I can say is Wow!!!! It made so much difference. Rode 341 {s}miles today and was it forevermore fun. Thanks to the ones that are willing to help a newbie. -
Has anyone made a single carb manifold for the Yamaha V4?
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I ran accross the following site today that has carb enhancement kits that it claims help overall power levels for us: Standard drop-in carb kit Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more topend power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling! http://www.factorypro.com/ select Yamaha and scroll down to xvz13 Venture. They also say The needle jet orifice wears oblong in as little as 5,000 miles and is particularly aggravated by "in town", low rpm operation. The result is excessive richness at low rpm that can be partially compensated for by lowering the fuel level. which might help explain why the factory sets the carb floats to run lean? Just a thought. They sell a carb float level adjustment tool. attachment is the tool.
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Well, i'm looking at my 08 Venture with 5k miles on it and saying it's to soon for a carb sync, it doesn't seem to run bad. But i'm going on a trip in a few weeks and it would be nice to at least check it. So i call around the local Stealers and they want $125 and up to perform this operation. Some told me I have to leave it overnight. It was then I decided I would buy the tool and attempt to do it myself. When the carb tool arrived, I read the instructions ( imagine that ) assembled the unit with all the hoses and was ready to go. I next asked for help from this forum, the information a got was very descriptive and made the job soooooo easy. The pictures and explanation was right on the money. The only way it could have been easier is if one of you came to my house and made the adjustments for me! This is a wealth of knowledge on this sight and i'm proud to be a part of it. Well it turnes out, my carbs were way out of sync. 1&2 werent even close and both banks were out from each other. I never would have thought a new bike with 5k on it needed a carb sync. I thought this thing ran great before, now it's a freekin rocket!! I want to thank you guys again for all the great information that enabled me to do this carb sync myself. I saved a bunch of money, I now own the tool, and the knowledge to do it myself!! Have a safe summer, and thanks again. Frank
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Well, I got the carbs put back together and re-installed on the bike (my first time). After I got the bike put back together, I decided to take her for a spin and she ran like a dream:usa:. She did have a hard time idling though. When I got back from around the block, I seen a puddle of fuel on the ground:yikes:. Come to find out, I had accidently left the #1 carb drain open. Easy fix....until I took closer look, I noticed that the drain line was not the only thing leaking fuel. Appearently all 4 carbs were leaking fuel and I know that I put the covers back on tight when I re-assembled them:soapbox:. I guess my question is.....how often do you have to replace the O-ring that seals the cover to the carb?
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:confused:Was just wondering guys before I go through it all to build a carb sync tool is there anyone in michigan willing to help a guy out with one? figured i would check before i start building....
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