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Found this on the web. Thought it might be of some interest. 10 Facts about AGM Batteries 1. AGM batteries were originally developed for the military and so are very robust and can take much more abuse than wet-cell or standard deep-cycle gel batteries. As the electrolyte is contained within the glass mats, there is nothing to leak or spill and they are relatively free from freezing damage. 2. As with other sealed batteries there is little to no maintenance with AGMs. Even more of an advantage is that most of them are 'recombinant'. What this means is that the oxygen and hydrogen combine inside the battery during charging cycles to form water - hence very little water loss and hydrogen emission. These batteries are therefore less hazardous than their counterparts. 3. AGM batteries can be stored in otherwise prohibited areas because of their advantages of no leakage and no fumes. Another advantage of this property is that they can be stored on end or on their sides if need be without damage. 4. The battery construction places the electrolyte in closer proximity to the active plate material. This enhances the efficiency of both discharge and charge cycles. Because of this, and because the internal resistance of the battery is very low they generally charge at a faster rate and to a higher capacity than non-AGM batteries. They can also take heavy discharge rates without damage and can take the occasional discharge below the recommended 50% of capacity rule. 5. AGMs have a very low discharge rate when stored for extended periods, and even if left to totally discharge in storage they can be quickly recharged back to over 95% of their capacity providing they have not been left too long in a discharged state. The advantage is, no flat battery after storing for extended periods (within reason of course). 6. Under normal operating conditions, a good service life of up to 5 years can be attained. With quality care and handling, managed discharge and charge even longer lifetimes are common. Some reports quote up to 10 years. 7. AGM batteries are quite a bit more expensive that conventional wet-cell and standard deep cycle. But if you measure this cost against their robustness, longer life expectancy and better performance, they still present as the best value for money over the longer term. 8. A 'normal' car alternator will only charge a wet-cell type battery to around 70-80% of its capacity. Because of its higher charging rates an AGM battery will just about fully charge and at a faster rate from the same type of alternator. 9. AGM batteries are capable of charging rates up to 75% of their rated ampere hour capacity. In some cases this can lead to damaged alternators or standard auto chargers that may be susceptible to the excessive heat generated when trying to deliver maximum amps. The good point though is that AGMs will charge at lesser rates and be quite happy doing that. But, if you are going to spend money on a quality battery then you should really be looking at buying a quality three-stage charger. 10. AGM batteries can handle a multitude of roles. They can be used as starting batteries, in deep cycle applications, or as standby batteries for critical powered systems. These reasons make them ideal for camping applications. They can also be connected in series or parallel banks providing for various terminal voltages and ampere capacities. Example: two AGMs can be wired in parallel in a pop-up camper. Charged via a three stage 'Smart' charger and never have an issue with them.
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i've did some searching of old threads and seems that most say the odyssey is a great battery. i was just wondering why there seems to be more batteryies with a higher cca raiting than the odyessey but seems the majority likes the odyessey?
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2006 Venture electrical problem
Sylvester posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
My buddy's RSV runs fine and all is good...most of the time. It will sit one day or several, but there will be a dead battery when he goes to start it. He is on his fourth battery since they will never re-charge. He called me and said it was dead again. Two weeks ago we checked every fuse for power drain and all was well with that at the time. I am thinking that the switch may be the problem and is coming on for some reason. It could set a week and start again fine or be dead overnight. :think: Any opinions? -
I have an 1987 Venture Royale and seem to replace my battery too often. Granted I do not ride it enough, so part of it is my fault. Anyway, if I were to go with a sealed battery it does not allow for my sensor. Then again what is the worst that will happen, the dummy warning will just blink all the time? I'd also like to get one soon rather than order it, so are there any common places to pick one up such as a K-Mart, Autozone, etc.? -
When I took a ride the other evening, I accidentally left my running lights on and they are not wired thru the ignition switch on purpose. I have plugged up my battery charger that charges at 6 amps on the high setting and 2 amps on the low. I am currently on the high setting. Is it ok to charge a dead DEKA battery like this? RandyA
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What the heck are these two little brass parts used for that came off the red cap on the Deka Battery All I used was the bolts like I always have in the past. [ATTACH]64695[/ATTACH]
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What is the real difference between a battery tender jr and a battery charger? Since the last battery I put in the bike was a AGM type I am wondering what it is I should be using. Read articles about desulphering and all kinds of technical stuff. Just need to know in layman's terms what to do or at least an explanation of what each kind does and if it is important to me or not. Let the technical guys come back first and then you can let the insult fly.
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Just in general for any battery if a battery has multiple cells and is ran in a series does the battery drain 1 cell at a time? If the battery is ran in parallel does all cells drain at the same time?
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Checking some old threads, it seems my stator might be an issue. Here's the situation. Squidley removed the switch from the passing lamp circuit while he was caretaking Roxie. The dealer had put in a rinky dink switch that frequently popped fuses. Going through a relay but then straight to the battery, the passing lamps are MUCH brighter. Our theory is that the switch was throttling power, so now the lamps are getting as much power as they want. The side effect is that now I have charging issues. It seems the energy output of the engine is just barely enough to power the bike. I put on 1200 miles last weekend, a quarter of it in the rain. It was 31-45F, so I had the Gerbings jacket liner out. With that background: Every time, not just this past weekend, 15 seconds after start, the Kuryakyn battery gauge will show green--as long as it is in neutral put it in gear, and it drops to yellow, even if you pull in the clutch after a while, if you lope along (60mph in 4th), it will get back to green run at high speed (72 in 4th), it drops to yellow With the Gerbings on, generally, the battery gauge will blink in neutral when the controller is heating the elements at one point last weekend, traveling 78mph in 5th, the green light came on after an hour. Not only that, but it eventually got to two green lights. I didn't even know there were two green lights! I've only seen one. The jacket liner was ON, but on low. I downshifted to 4th to take an exit, and I lost the green. I never saw the two greens again. On the ride to MO, it was cold and raining. I kept my eye on the battery gauge because if it ever got to one yellow (there are two), I would have pulled the fuse on the passing lamps (no switch any longer). But it never did, even with the Gerbings on med-high. When the rain stopped, the green light came on as I loped through small towns. The same was true on the ride back. It was 31F when I left, so I had the Gerbings on high. I could always get green when in idle, and if I wasn't running at high RPMs, I could sometimes glimpse green. It really seems as if it is on the verge of getting enough output. I am confused about the difference between being in neutral vs being in gear with the clutch pulled; what extra load is being placed on the engine simply by being out of neutral? We have the SW Texas Maintenance Day coming up. What things should I check? I replaced the battery, thinking that was it, but that was before this trip. Ideas? Dave http://images.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/300/2007_Kuryakyn_LED_Battery_Gauge.jpg
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Hi guys, i have a 1300 from 1990 and when i try to start it, it won't turn over. i have checkt the battery and need to by replaced (broken). when i try to jump start it whit an external battery the cables come very hot and smoking, but still the starter will only turn once or twice and very havy and slow. any ideas before i go shopping? thnx, Ice
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Hey gang, so those of you that have the Argus Battery Bug, where have you mounted it? Pictures please, I already have a Kuryakyn LED mounted and it works great, 4 years running and no problems, but going one step father, been hearing pretty good reviews about them. Also, how have you been liking yours? Thanks, Jeff
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HELP!......'07 RSTD & bought a new battery exactly one year ago. Problem now is it won't hold the charge. I get out for a short 30minute ride then go to restart it, & it's a gamble if there's enough juice to kick it over or not. By the time I get it home, there's not enough there to turn it over, so I charge it back up to go again. With the battery only a year old, what are my chances of defective battery @ this time?...or could it be the charging system. Is there a way to check? Bobby
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Hello, I'm getting my 1985 VR 1200 up and I'm haveing some problems. I started with charging my old battery, I Put it back in and the battery light came on and the main fuse went when I went to start it, I replaced the fuse and tryed again. The battery is old so I went and got a new one and some fresh gas, charged the new battery put it in and the bike with the fresh gas, It will turn over faster now but dose not even try to start up, The battery light still comes on also. The bike worked fine when I put it away for for the winter. Anyone know what I can do? Thanks, BMattie
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Got a GPS tracking device from someone I work with that is planning on selling them. It takes a sim card (GSM) that with pay as you go will respond to text messages and reports its position (latitude/longitude), speed, battery condition, and distance. I'm planning on mounting it inside the fairing and will report on how well it works out. I've done some initial testing in the car and works as advertised. You can either call the sim's phone number or send a text message to get : latitude and longitude by SMS or GPRS, and check position by Google earth. Auto Report position based on a time frame and repetitions you txt to it (eg: every 5 minutes for 20 repetitions) Send the last location if it enters into the blind area (out of gps view) Add or change Username and Password. Monitoring and SOS feature. Monitoring uses a built-in microphone so you can "monitor" sounds around it (listen to conversations Geofence alert to the user when it breaches the restricted area send an alert of movement to the user when it begins to move. send an alert of overspeed to the user when it moves exceed of the restricted speed. It will send an alert of low battery to the user if the battery is low. Specs : 46(L)x64(W)x17(H) mm and weighs 50g, GSM sensitivity GSM sensitivity - less than -102dBm GPS chipset SirF III chipset GPS sensitivity -159dBm GPS accuracy 5m Battery life about 48 hrs Comes with two 3.7V DC Li-Ion Battery,700mA, wall charger, and connection for bike/car (wire in), magnetic cover Battery charges off the bike so I'll wire it in using a relay to turn on charging using the ignition. Although you can use something like this to track young drivers in your car for going over a set speed limit, location, or outside a set area, I'm thinking if the bike is ever stolen I can locate it either based on movement or locate it simply by sending it a txt message. Doesn't report to a web site so there are no monthly fees, and using a pay as you go card can add $ to it as you need, say over the summer months when you are riding/touring. Easy way for your significant other to find out where you are -okay.... that can be good or bad.
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hi all. is it ok to use battery tender jr on my 08 rsv? the owner man. says don't use a conventional charger as it could damage the battery. I like to use the battery mounted pigtail so you don't have to remove the seat to maintain batt. thanks
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I need to charge my battery for my 09 RSV. It it under the seat? I understand from a thread that there are two bolts to remove under in front. A little help please, Curby
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Aloha, Just returned from a riding trip in Central and Southern, CA on my 2006 Venture. It appears that it's time to replace my battery on my 06 Venture. Located a discussion on the same subject back in 2006. Wondering if battery technology has changed since the 2006 posts that I should consider, especially since I've noticed replacement batteries ranging from $50 to $140. Thanks in advance for your sage advice.
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Anybody besides me have one of these gadgets? You plug it into your cig. lighter before you disconnect the battery, and it saves all your radio/clock settings. Nice and cheap, too!
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Figured that over the winter I'd redo some of my wiring on my 2nd Gen by adding a ganged fuse block. Sounds like a great idea... until you connect it and then try to figure out where to put it ! I also want to wire in a cigarette lighter for use with an air compressor and wire in my GPS. Also planning on connecting a GPS tracking device. Have Stebel horn with harness... relay on right side of battery. Passing lights with relay behind battery. Have trailer isolator behind battery. Now... fuse block... On top of battery? Seat won't sit down. Behind batter? Where to put the isolator? On top of battery? Seat won't sit down. Hmmm.... where else is there space? Side panels... no room.... centre of frame under back end of fuel tank? Nope... too congested with plumbing.... Options : - put the fuse block in the front fairing and leave the isolator behind the battery....but then would have to run power wire from battery compartment for isolator, horn, cigarette lighter to the fairing. The passing lights relay would be in the fairing. - move the isolator to outside of the plastic panel between battery and fender and fuse block behind battery... What have others done?
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You can get a DEKA at a great price order online pick up at store about $58.00, $35.00 off look up AGM battery. Not posting much had rotator cuff surgery right shoulder of course I am right handed, typing left handed is fun. This may be of use to someone. http://s3.dlnws.com/images/products/images/764000/764460-large Advance Auto Parts coupons: 20% off no minimum, $10 off $30, more Advance Auto Parts continues to offer several coupons, as listed below. They're still among the strongest discounts we've seen from this merchant. (We saw 25% off sitewide briefly on Cyber Monday.) Shipping starts around $9, or spend $75 or more (after coupon) to qualify for free shipping. (Free in-store pickup is also available on most items.) Sales tax is added where applicable. Note that motor oil is excluded. The coupons (which do not stack): 20% off sitewide no minimum via code "P20" $10 off orders of $30 or more via code "A123" $15 off orders of $40 or more via code "BIG15" $20 off orders of $50 or more via code "A123" $30 off orders of $75 or more via code "BIG30" $35 off orders of $85 or more via code "RAF7JA1102" $50 off orders of $150 or more via code "VISA"
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:whistling:I came off the money yesterday and replaced the original battery that came new in my 04 Silverado. I just realized it had been in there for 8 years and still cranking.Just begining to notice slow turnovers in cold weather so I replaced it. I want to be ready. You never know when one might hit the buy it now button on ebay and have to make a trip somewhere after a good First Gen. Like Baltimore,Florida,Arkansas,North Carolina, Maine, Pittsburg, Michigan etc.
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I needed a new battery so I priced them everywhere, the only place that could beat them was a Scooter Shop here in Newnan. He does sell motorcycles, but thats another story. I went in to pick up my new battery and starting looking around his shop and saw a rear box on an upper shelf. It looked exactly like what I wanted for my V Star, it sorta matches the lines of my bags and the bike, so I looked at it, it is of fair size made, of abs as are most body parts these days, has a radio antenna built into it, not that I will use it, locking lid. He saw I was interested so he said make him an offer on it, he had two in stock and they had been there for a couple of years, they were rather dusty. He then said they normally retailed for $80.00, If he would have told me that before I looked at it, I wouldnt have looked because at that price it had to be junk, so I offered him $35.00, he countered $40.00. So I now have a new rear box to mount, but nothing to mount it too, I need to get a luggage rack to mount it too, or have one made up. Wish me luck.
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Got the info on the Hardley. It is 07 Springer Screaming Eagle Soft-Tail I think this thing takes the same battery as a 2nd Gen. A 20 something. Any one know of Promo codes for Advance Auto right now or anything? Cheapest AGM I could find was 109 bucks with free shipping. I only paid $62 I think for my 1st Gen with the promo code Dale found.
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The battery on my V Star 1300 finally died at age of 4 years and 3 months, pretty good lifespan in my thingking, went to Wallyworld as I normally do to buy a replacement battery, normally in the $50.-$60 dollar range...........wrong, they had 2 batteries, one was 59, the other was 86.00, and these are not Yusa, they were Walmart brand.............last battery I bought for the Venture was aroun 46.00. Shopped around, no luck , so I went to a scooter shop here in Newnan, he was $4.00 cheaper for the Yusa that the Yamaha dealer, when I told him the price difference, he said cant let that happen, he said he would let me have the Yusa for 79.95. So I have found a shop that will beat the big guys prices, I didnt expect him to come down by $30.00. I will have it by Thursday, and I can start riding again after not being on the bike since Thanksgiving due to my surgery.
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Going to put the resistor to fix the battery warning light issue. I bought bothe the 1k & the 2.2K ohm. Which one should I try first? I'm trying to do as few steps as possible. Thanks Andy
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