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SilvrT

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Everything posted by SilvrT

  1. They are different ... check this out... http://hometheater.about.com/od/internethometheater/a/The-Difference-Between-Streaming-And-Downloading-Media.htm Your ISP will do their calculations based on the above scenario .... basically, how much data is being transmitted (downloaded) on your internet connection. Similar to cell phone air time and nowadays, data transmission what with having the ability to Facebook and Hotmail, etc, etc on your cell phone.
  2. When I was younger, I pushed the limits .... now that I'm older, the limits push me. (figgure that one out)
  3. noooooooo... eh, ya think? eh
  4. That just gave me an idea .... take any piece of ABS pipe and cut it with a handsaw ... there's generally lots of "shavings" that can be used. As for the JB weld coming loose, someone correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't JB Weld come in different "flavours"?? ... and if you don't use the "ABS flavour", then it doesn't bond correctly.
  5. Ya, I think it has a lot to do with the "sound" versus the loudness. I was able to listen to them and others on a link in the "other" venture site and compared to the RK's, I like the sound of the Khromewerks better. In any event, I got a pair coming, thanks to 01 Rider. Worse case is if I don't like 'em, I can probably re-sell them or maybe even trade 'em.
  6. Both my 1st gens had 100k +/- kilomters on them when I bought them. Had no engine issues whatsoever and both had close to 160k when I sold them. The guy that bought my '87 3 years ago has ridden it all over the place and probably put more km's on it than when I had it. I wouldn't balk at a 2nd gen even as new as an '08 having 40k miles as long as it was in excellent condition and has been properly maintained. That being said, I'd much prefer that new of a bike to have much less.
  7. showmebob, you mention "ground up abs" a lot.... just exactly how are you "grinding it up" ..???
  8. You're sayin the RK's weren't nearly as loud as the KW's?? ... did the RK's have the baffles removed? I got the RK's with the baffles removed .... they're ok but get a bit annoying on a long trip coz most of our riding around here involves pullin a lot of hills so you're cranking it on a lot.
  9. Looks like I got me a set of Khromewerks!!
  10. I've also used a soldering gun to weld ABS ... works pretty good. I then would fill the "gap" or any irregular depressions with an ABS 2-part resin, smooth that down and final finish with regular auto body spot filler after priming. All this is fine on cracks, etc, but would be difficult to do for a broken tab, etc.
  11. Probably a wasted request but what the hey... thought I'd give it a shot anywayz Maybe someone out there has a pair collecting dust somewhere ... either that or maybe decided to switch back to stock or another brand .... if you wanna find a new home for those Khromewerks, gimme a shout.
  12. Thanks. Actually, I've gone back to my stockers too. The drilled out RK's were just a bit too noisy on a long trip. I have heard a sound clip on the Khromewerks (as well as several other muffs) and quite like the sound they put out as well as how they look. Still struggling with forking out that much money tho...
  13. Don, which do you prefer... Khromewerks or Samsons?? (and why)
  14. That 1st one is perfect for me coz I currently look like the 3rd one!
  15. Have a little optimism and faith in yourself .... I've had my lowers (not my teef!) off several times and split my fairing at least 5 times as much as the lowers ... nothing broken ...... YET (talk about having optimism and faith! LOL) Wish I'd known about the Plastex back when I had my '85 tho and shoulda bought some when I had my '87 as both bikes (bought used) had this or that broken or cracked .... especially the '87. When you do take things off and they are the type that clip into a rubber grommet, put a little lithium grease on the hole of the grommet before re-installing the part. Makes it a lot easier to take off next time, not to mention easier to get back on.
  16. I found the answer to my own question in the following 2 posts... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=475692&postcount=4 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=475843&postcount=6
  17. I totally understand that feeling. What the deciding factor for me was when I installed my RK mufflers and drilled out the baffles .... made it all that much harder to hear what the wife was saying and I'd have to practically shout for her to hear me. Now, we just talk normally thru the headsets.
  18. ya but at least we don't have to yank all that plastic off and in the process, break a pin or something.....
  19. First of all, get the "I" basket put in and ask to see the "I" stamp on the basket BEFORE they install it. I say that because my dealer put the wrong one in. Secondly, have them hold onto your original basket and make a deal with them to put it back in if the "I" basket swap doesn't work. They will do it for a nominal fee.
  20. A point to note when turning the screwdriver... don't "push" on it .... this will throw the sync out of sync .... just turn it lightly left or right.
  21. I don't believe it's any different for a 1st gen as they are essentially the same engine/carb setup .... someone correct me if I'm wrong.
  22. One of the statements in that thread is... "NOTE: Prior to synchronizing the carburetors, the valve clearance and the engine idling speed should be properly adjusted and the ignition timing should be checked." I have not yet seen anywhere where it tells a guy how to check the ignition timing on either a 1st or 2nd gen. Can anyone enlighten me (and others) on this...??
  23. Make sure you use the little rubber spacers for the mic mount and tighten them screws down real good. Other than that, ensure the speakers are stuck in good.
  24. SilvrT

    Noise

    Art, in the quest of reducing the clutch basket whine to an acceptable level, a person may have to try several " I " baskets and even at that, not coming to any satisfactory result. In other words, some are just not curable. A good dealer who is in the know will tell you that.... mine did. I was lucky ... mine is at an acceptable level now with an " I " basket. Having said that, don't rule out the pumpkin as I've heard that some others who thought it was their clutch basket was really the differential. How does one know if it's the differential or the clutch basket???? In my case, the whine only appears at a certain RPM range and is most noticeable in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th in that specific rpm range. ... that tells me that it's the clutch basket gear. From my past experience with cages, differentials will generally whine regardless of engine rpm or gear as the whine is based on the rpm of the rear drive, not the engine and the whine will increase proportionally to speed (generally speaking)
  25. There are some thing a man just does not say either in front of a woman or on an open, on-line forum ..... and that has to be at the TOP of the list!!
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