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djh3

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Everything posted by djh3

  1. djh3
    Pretty awsome idea. As far as the rain goes, probably by now you all have worked thru this. On my Kawasaki 900 I had a Barrons Big Air Kit. It was a simular open type element on the side of the bike. It had something they called a "rain bonnet" or somethin glike that. Some of my buddy's have Harley's with open type cleaner like this set up to. They have taken a pair of lady's nylons and cut a section out and slip it over the air filters and it works for keeping the driving rain out. Also some of the bugs and critters. I'm not a big on chrome kind of guy either shinning all that takes time away from riding. But man the aircleaner gig on these things is ugly. I'll bet given a little time and inginuitive thought someone can figure out how to make some storage puches with velcro closures or something to fit in the void.
  2. djh3
    WOW must have been either a serious long wrench or a good sized cheater bar.
  3. djh3
    For me for the time being I will have to stay on the 4K routine. Its still under warranty. The bike has 8080 I think when I looked at it today. I know its going out on a limb but I amgoing to assume (yes I know) the PO serviced it @ 600 miles and then again @ 4600 so I'm going with due @ 8600. I see in the service area it says to replace the spark plugs. Are they really ka-put @ 8000 miles? I just replaced the ones on my Kawi @ like 30K.
  4. djh3
    Well I have had the ocasion to change a valve spring or two on a small block chevy simularly. I think we used some nylon string, sort of like clothes line. Fed some in the cyl, rotated the engine over till it felt sort of snug and had a very crude compression device we made from a car trunk hinge. But it worked. I would not say either is the recomended way. So whats the deal will the JC whitney too listed (suzuki) work or not? I'm pretty sure the one for my Fj1200 wont.
  5. djh3
    AS hig4s says, you can do all the mesurments, but unless you have a supply of heavens knows how many and what size your kind of stuck. On the plus note from what I have been able to learn the venture uses the same shim theat Yamaha has used since I dunno when. I know its the same shims that go in the FJ1200 in my legends car. It never seemed to fail when I ran the valves on that thing I allways had to do it twice. Once to check and agin because I had to order shims and wait on them. I have some, but they are probably way to big for what we need. As the legends runs so hard it pulls the valves thru the head almost. I bought a stock head and got all those shims. Guess I can look and see what I got. Unfortunatly the compressor tool is completly different. I have thought about buying one but right now it aint in the budget. Them suckers are pricey. I have done the FJ1200, kawaski 900 that are bucket shim and back in the day the old honda screw and lock nut jobs. Really I like those best.
  6. djh3
    OK so I was having my mornig coffee and got to thinking about using ear buds with my shorty helmet that I dont have the intercom rig on. I remembered this post. Then I remembered something about the Buddy Rich cable deal. So I have a 2 part question. 1: why wouldnt this type of set up work (especially if wired in during a Buddy Rich cable mod) 2: Could you run a second 1/8 to the mic "input" side and then plug into your GPS with running it thru the Aux side. Would that render the intercomm inop? Heres a pic I got off a Goldwing site of the wiring. If nothing else it looks like a plan if you are thinking about running earbuds. And alot less the $50. http://www.rattlebars.com/chetswing/headset01.jpg PS I dont have a clue what a ceiling staple is.
  7. djh3
    Give this place a look over. When I needed some parts for my Kawai they had best prive. http://www.powersportsplus.com/
  8. djh3
    Well except the slave right?
  9. djh3
    HMMM so if one is good, would 2 be better? Mount it in an over under configuaration?? Maybe make the lower one all brake ?? Would be easy to make a bracket to hang it from the first. Well got ready to wire and mount the light today. I was using a battery charger on 2am to run the different circuits to figure out wiring. I appeard to have a problem. Only the middle and outboard lights would work. So I go in the house and get on my e-bay account and check the listing. DOUGH you dummy I should have read it a little closer. It is only a 3 led light. Looks just like the ones in other posts but it aint. Well h&ll its here so I'm gonna mount it. Actually I mounted 2 of them. I put the other right under it. Not to bad looking I think. Instead of the plastic spacers I used some 3/8" alum tubing I had. I cut it to length, mounted a screw up thru it and put it in a drill and threw some metal polish on a rag and turned the drill on. Made nice shiny pieces. The hanger brackets I fab'd out of 3/4" alum angle I had around. Trimmed it up and polished it to, not with the drill though.
  10. djh3
    Well I just checked my owners manual. While it says 4K on the change interval, while looking at it I noticed it has a check mark for changing the filter every 8K. WHY ?? Why would you not change a $6-10 filter ? I'm just sayn.......... Thats like takin a shower with your socks on. Shoot I know guys from the Kawai fourms I am on that change the filter @4K and run the oil out to the recomended 7500mi. That makes more sense to me.
  11. djh3
    I was pretty happy withe the results I saw on the Purolator Pl series. I'll probably go with them. It looks like I'll be switching over the the Rotella T6 syn oil. I used Mobil 1 in the Kawaskai I got rid of, but I could also go like 7K between changes. At $40+ and a filter every 4K on this one I dont see that happeining. I think Wally world has the T6 for like $23 a gallon.
  12. djh3
    On my previous bike I had problems telling exactly where the oil was. And it was easy to see the sight glass. So I trick I did was to take a paint pen (you can take a tooth pick or model paint brush and a quick spray of white paint into a paper cup) and just touch the high and low marks by the sight glass. That way when you look at the glas you have a reference of the points. Sure helps when your tryin to do the mirror bank shot trick checking the level. Actually I was in this thread trolling for oil filter recomendations.
  13. djh3
    Well spent the afternoon going back thru this operation. Paying special attention to getting everything "square" as us racers say. First I tried just loosening up the tripple tree clamps and seeing if I could maybe get it to move to th left, nope. Finally I just went back to square one. I took off the chrome covers and then reinstalled the triple tree and snuged up the nut. Then loosened up the lowers and got out the dial calipers and checked my distances from top of shock to the triple tree. Made sure all that was even (well I got it within.007) best I could do. I was shooting for like 7/8" and I think it read like .884 or something so I sluged up the right side. Matched the left within the .007 mentioned and snuged up the lower on that one. Then took off triple tree and reassembled as normal. First I centered up the wheel, measuring from the screw head on the lower rad fairing to the edge closest to the rad on the fork. So with that centered I measured with a tape to a couple points like rear crash bars. Then I just used a piece of string and measured from the end of the handle bars to like the pin on the rear floor boards and again to the crash bars. I also measured from the fork to the bolt head that secures the gas tank. So with all of them looking pretty much the same I finnished putting it together. Was dark whrn I finnished but best I can tell it looks a heck of alot better. I may have done alot more than I had to but I was dange sure I was going to do all I could to make sure it was right in my mind. Yea I know I probably went off the deep end on this but its right.
  14. djh3
    Stop by Comp USA dude. They got MP3 players for what 2 tapes would run you. This one is around $12. Its only 2gb but hey thats prob atleast 5 alblums. http://images.highspeedbackbone.net/skuimages/small/M450-4064_chiclet01_aa_4545190.jpg I know theres a Comp USA over in Brandon there on the street on the south side of the mall.
  15. djh3
    Ahhh a furnature dolly. I got one of them. Then looks as though just added some wood for a little strength and height bolt the chock to it.
  16. djh3
    For whatever reason the forks were a pain to get to come up. I ended up removing the front wheel because best I could tell it sort of put it in a bind lowering it to try to weight on them to go up. I am realitivly sure it is fine. But it is just an annoyance. But I'm gonna tear it appart today and basicly start from scratch all over. Double check measurements. Hey now that I know where all them little sucker bolts are it shouldnt be to bad. Them 2 on the back of the handelbars get me though. I'm going to check today though, I think I have a 1 1/16" wrench so maybe I can leave the handlebars on the trip tree. I just put risers on it the other day and man that was a challenge. Dont really care to go thru again.
  17. djh3
    You could use the crash bars eh?
  18. djh3
    You know the laying it down in the yard gave me a thought. Do you have a trailer? You could use the back of your pick up. But if the trailer was lower it would be better. Pull it up so the front wheel is in the bed (of which ever you decide) Secure it, sort of like you were trailering and remove the ramp device. Front wheel in the air in bed and rear on ground. Secured with straps it shouldnt tip or go anywhere. Then you would have access to the bottom. I can see its perplexing. You got a lift but the dang thing lifts where you need to get your paws.
  19. djh3
    Ok I lowered my 09 RSV the other day. What little I have rode it I can say so far I like it. However it appears that now when the wheel is tracking straight it appears the handle bars ar slighly askew to the right. How would it be possible to get a 3 point hook up (tripple tree) to not go back on straight is what I'm trying to figure out. The center point is fixed and teh 2 fork holes are preset. So once you have the forks set at your heighth and the tripple tree slips on you would think its all square right? It drives fine just bugs the heck outa me. Do you think if I tear the fairing all apart again and jack up , well basicly tear it all back to the part of adjusting the shocks somehow square up the wheel. Maybe measure back from rear of shock to the frame or something fixed to be sure the wheel is straight. Or do you think maybe will just be able to loosen the trippe tree bolts and give it a "tweak" to the left would squear up the bars. The shocks measure the same amount out of the tripple tree, within a couple thousands on a caliper. I went to 7/8".
  20. djh3
    Hmm being metric may pos a problem with locally procuring a part. Worse case scenario even if you have to order them online you should have them in 3-5 days.
  21. djh3
    Yea we use to "fool" the early generation FI (throttle body GM) by changing the thermostats and acouple other things. I had like a 96 Dodge Dakota pick up with the last year of the 318. That thing had the most awful part to mid throttle ping. I got to reading up on it and found it was thermostat related. Dodge had put like a 210 thermo in them to meeet emissions. Running hotter burned unburnt fuel. So after reading up on it I put in a 190 and never had the ping again. Cycles you get that clutch thing sorted out man?
  22. djh3
    Yup you need to leave them in. Really dont have to much to do with heaters any more. If you take them out you loose some of the retriciton to the water flow. Sounds godd but it aint. If the water moves to fast it dont pick up any of the heat along the way and strange as it may seem run hot. What I use to do on my race cars once I found this out was we use to take the center plunger thing out and leave the big "washer" looking part. It slowed down the flow enough it cooled but still had good flow. My Cummins in my PU is really strange looking to watch work. The engine gets to about 190 and then all of a suddden you can watch the gauge and it will drop to like 140-150. Then when it gets back up to 190 it opens again. From what I have been told thats they way its suposed to work. Everything I have worked on is more of a gradual open till full open and then just flows all the time. The Cummins is like its taking drinks of water.
  23. djh3
    Nope, checked the pressure with my digital gauge and it read 45.5. Its rode OK so I figured to leave it alone. Tires were 40 front 40.5 in the rear. Thats taking for granted the gauge is good. Its worked fine for 5yr dont know why it would quit now. Shoot it even reads bar and Kg.
  24. djh3
    Well got the lights mounted up today. About 2-3hr for the first and maybe 30-45 for the second. Lots of enginerrin on the first. I ran the wires down from under the seat area thru the tip over bar and out the hole in it to the light. Being as the lights are made for being on a trailer or something that has a ground, it only has like a ground strap inside that the screw is suposed to go into the metal body and also touch this ground strap. So I used a split wire end and slid it under the screw head. I thought pretty ingenious. First problem: where the screw goes ends up being in iterfearence mounting to the bar flush. So I had to move it towards the outside of the marker light and drill my own hole. Then I noticed the other mount screws would do the same so I had to move them. Of course you dont notice until you go to mount and wonder why it wont sit flush. These particular lights are a tick short, but I dont think they look to bad. I'll try to take some pics tomorrow. Got a couple more projects to try to get done. And I'm waiting on my rear light bar.
  25. djh3
    Just tryin to understand you alls point of view. Sure would be nice if someone still made the crossover deal. I saw a couple links, but when and if they came up they were discontinued. Is there another source for the pump used on the front, or is Harley the only deal?
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