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justfun1

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Everything posted by justfun1

  1. justfun1
    Hi, I have been having issues with a poor running 89 that is very sluggish. acts likeit is on 3 cylinders much of the time. I have rebuilt the carbs, synced them with a tool, and installed new plug wires, caps and plugs, checked the pickup connectors, and cleaned up the TCI connectors. All cylindars fire but many seem weak and for 1 cylinder in particular I can remove the plug wire while idling and it barely changes the idle. Due to another issue I was able to get to my coils & TCI. Upon inspecting the coils I found that 3 of them have cracks in the housing at the top of the body on the mold parting line. Does this indicate that they are bad or weak? Would the cracks affect the delivered spark? Thanks in advance!
  2. justfun1
    I got tired of the cold hands too. After some thought I made up some wind winds for my fairing. See the thread link below, although the pics are not very good you can get a good idea of what I did. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68165
  3. justfun1
    I agree with the other posters, those pegs suck. Mine always slips and I do not like the foot position. I'm going to be putting on some offset ones next summer, I hear many good comments about them.
  4. justfun1
    Sorry it took so long to answer, it's been a while since I have had time to get on here. Yes I was talking about the jets under the carbs. On both my '86 and '89 IZ have thjem set at between 2 1/2 & 3 turns out. Mike
  5. justfun1
    Not knowing the full history here but in case you have not done it yet, I'd check the main needle settings to be sure it is 2 1/2 - 3 turns out from bottoming out. That was the issue with my 89, it seems to run well at 2 3/4 turns out.
  6. justfun1
    What a great thread! I always wanted to figure out how to do that but never got around to it. I used a small diameter paracord and the electrical clips like the pictures above except I had to use the yellow connectors because of the diameter of the cord I used. It does work great! Awsome Idea!! Thanks again!
  7. justfun1
    Just wanted to share how it all ended up. The solder tip seems to have worked out well. Attached is a picture of tip. After tuning in the height with the test piece of coat hanger I cut the good antenna 1/4" longer thinking I could walk in the Tuning. Upon installation I found that the new antenna was a bit too short! So it seems that the electrical properties of the metal used for testing will impact the final height too. Thanks to the great responses on this thread, I learned that there was also a matching knob on the antenna splitter box. I was able to finish getting the antenna tuned in by using this matching adjustment. SWR Results: 1:3.5 on Ch1, 1:3 on Ch20, 1:4 Ch40 Thanks again for the help! Mike
  8. justfun1
    yeah I'm using a coat hanger to start with. I did have to grind down the dia. to fit it into the .082" hole so I should be OK with the electrical connection. I have a friend that is into HAM radio and he picked me up a treated SST antenna whip for $1 at a show he was at. Unfortunately it does not have a corona ball on it. I have been playing with a concept that my friend thinks should work well. Initially I took a piece of oak and drilled about a 1/8" hole about 1/8" deep using a drill press. I then sanded the end of a test wire to expose the raw metal. Using a soldering iron I filled the hole up with solder and then put the tip of the test wire into the monten pool & let it cool. I was able to work the resulting plug out of the mold and clean it up a bit with a file. I'm planning on trying a smaller dia. tip tonight that would have less mass. I also will play with different matierials to make the "Mold" from that might yield a better finnish. We'll see I guess, but it is fun tinkering with new ideas.
  9. justfun1
    With my initial scrap test wire antenna, I was reading a bit over 3. Tonight I hope to start tuning in on the target height with my test wire & then fit my good antenna wire to the antenna.
  10. justfun1
    Thanks for all the help with my "Issue", it is great to have such a great group to share knowledge with. Well . . . As it turns out the problem was the operator of the SWR meter. I had understood from the person I borowed the SWR from that the REF was the referance setting rather than the reflected setting. Seems that I had been setting the initial reading on the REF rather that the FOR so when I switched it to check the SWR it was always off the scale to the infinity. Another embarassing lesson learned that won't be forgotten soon . . . . Thanks again, Mike
  11. justfun1
    Hey Bob, Yes I did the motorola tip at the matching box to the tip of the antenna and had continuity . . . I did not measure the ohms though, if I understand it correctly it should be about 50 ohms resistance correct? A friend at work suggested that the SWR meter may be faulty too, so he'll bring in one on Monday for me to verify with. Thanks
  12. justfun1
    Thanks for the feedback! My iniitial reading were with the bike about 20 yards from any building in the driveway. I am trying to use a piece of scrap wire that I was playing with to try to figure out what the antenna height should be. I just can't seem to get a reasonalbe SWR at any length. I have also not adjusted the matching box . . . Is it even possible for the stock ones? In an attempt to rule it out I did remove it from the SWR setup a couple times and it did not change the result. If I understand what I've read on the net about the SWR readings . . . my results indicate that basically all ofthe power is being reflected back to the radio & virtually nothing is being transmitted. Is this correct? Thanks again for your help! Mike
  13. justfun1
    Hi all, I'm a bit stumped. :confused24: I recently upgraded my '86 to an '89 and am working through the bike making sure all is alright. The bike was missing the tip of the antenna so I'm trying to "fit" a new tip. I cut an antenna about 20" thinking I can step it down until I get the SWR correct. Hooking up the SWR I found that the reading is pegged past infinity. I started troubleshooting but have not found any obvious issues. I'm now stumped as to what to check next??? Items done: 1) SWR : it is pegged off the scale on ch1, ch40 and ch19 :confused: 2) Antenna mount has continuity to the negative on the battery. 3) The antenna when removed form the mount it has continuity from base to tip 4) the cable has continuity for the center conductor to the antenna mount post 5) the cable shield has continuity to the antenna mount body 6) there is no continuity between the center wire and the shield 7) tested with the matching box both connected and bypassed After this effort I was thinking on buying the stuff for the Marshal Mod but I'd like tofigure out if the CB is good or not prior to sinking the $$ into a new antenna setup. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike
  14. justfun1
    Hi, I had real good luck with the Dunlop E3's. I got 22K and 21K on the last 2 rear tires and the front is. I did try a venom front once but did not like the ride. . . it could be because I had an E3 in the back. I'm sold on the E3's so far using 40 psi in the back and 35 psi in the front. Just my 2 cents, Mike
  15. justfun1
    They do work great. It really did widen the air bubble and my kids said that it made it less windy for them too. I wish I had done this a few years ago. I used 2 different methods to bend the Lexan. For the one by the radio I used a torch to heat it up and bend it. This worked but it bubbled and distorted the plexi in the bend area. For the other one I cold formed it using a metal brake I bought from Harbor freight (a cheap on I've had my eyes on for some time). This worked much better and produced a crisper result. It is important to note that you can only cold bend for Lexan brand plexiglass.
  16. justfun1
    I have an '86 scoot and this year I decided to make some wind deflectors to protect my hands better and hopefully widen the air bubble a bit too. They turned out well so I thought I'd share them with you all. After a few nights in the shop tinkering I came up with a design that looks good, does not require you to drill holes to mount and works great as well. Basically it is very straight forward, I used the existing body mount locations to mount the wings. The lower support is from a metal clip board (thin and stiff) and the heads of the bolts fit in the recesses of the faring covers. The upper mount is a 1/8 x 3/4 aluminum that I put in a vice and twisted it. This turns out to be the trickiest piece to fit, but well worth the effort. Mike
  17. justfun1
    On the way home I did not hear any difference reguardless of the direction I was leaning. I did run it for a bit while on the center stand and found that there was also a lot of noise and an occasional hint of a clunk in the middle gear area. I assume that to check the middle bearing you just push it back & forth feeling for movement. How would I check the cross being that you can't really get at it well? So in summary it sounds like the middle gear,U-joint and the final drive might be bad. Thanks again for the help, Mike
  18. justfun1
    I had Mobil 1 in there before but yesterday I just filled it with Amsoil because friends have had good luck with it. I will have to pay attention on my way home today if there is a difference when I lean one way or the other. If there is a difference, what would that mean? Sounds like I need to pull the pumpkin & shaft to figure out more.
  19. justfun1
    Thanks for the quick replies. I drove it to work today to listen more carefully at the noise. When driving around, the noise has a pitch sounds mostly like a wind whistle and does not change pitch between the accel and decel. The pitch does change when the speed of the bike changes. Yet the sound is most definitely coming from the final drive area. Mike
  20. justfun1
    Last fall my '86 developed a whine coming from the rear tire area, I checked it out as best as I could and decided that the inside wheel bearing by the final drive was probably shot. So this spring I got a new set of bearings and replaced them, lubed & greased up the clutch hub and changed the oil in the final drive and made sure the backlash was OK. The oil from the pumpkin was VERY black but there was only 1 very small piece of metal on the magnet & I did not find anything in the bottom of the drain pan. I got it together tonight & just got back from a test ride and am frustrated that the sound is still there . . . but much easier to pinpoint now that the bearing is corrected. I'm getting a wine that is audible from the drive shaft area of the bike. Using a long screw driver as a stethoscope and the bike running in gear on the stand, the sound is the loudest at the input of the final drive. Is it likely that the drive shaft just needs to get lubed up again or something more serious? If that is not it does the big bearing for the input shaft go bad @ about 100K? Has anyone replaced the big bearing for the input shaft on the final drive? Is it difficult? OR . . . it best to start looking for a new final drive and leave that one alone? Thanks, Mike
  21. justfun1
    That is a great solution as well. I did see your post when I was trying to figure out what I was going to do. I decided against it because I thought it might block my gauges. I also had problems with the GPS being too close and my eyes had to adjust to see it. Getting old sucks! I thought the location of yours might give me the same issue. Now that you reminded me of it though I might make one to mount a drink holder to. Thanks!
  22. justfun1
    This site is AWESOME and has really helped me out a lot! Just thought that I would share how I mounted my GPS to my '86 scoot. I had tried mounting to the handle bars but found it vibrated more that I liked, was not well protected by the windshield & was too far out of my line of sight to feel safe. After a lot of thought I figured out that I could mount it to my fork because it is very stable & already has threads. It also positions the GPS in a good line of sight & is well protected by the windscreen. I had access to a small lathe so I made the custom spacer & bought the aluminum RAM mount components. See pics for more detail. I really like it and have made one for a friend that has an '84 venture.
  23. justfun1
    Check out this thread. It sounds like Time might be able to help you out. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34816 Mike
  24. justfun1
    Thanks for figuring this out MiCarl! That is the info I needed to complete the install of the GMRS radio onto my bike. Mike
  25. justfun1
    Wow . . . Thanks for all of the input! MiCarl . . I just want to clarify that I understand exactly which pin you are talking about. To cut the radio out it sound like you need to send +6v to the pin that is the first one clockwise from the keyway when looking at the cable plug that connects to the CB? Scotty, I was not exactly sure if your graphic was drawn in referance to the cable plug or the amp plug looking from the top. Is this pin the unknown one in your graphic? Thanks again for all of your help. Mike
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