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Daveand Barbie

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Everything posted by Daveand Barbie

  1. Daveand Barbie
    After 20 years driving a race car with full nomex in the summer heat, I have learned a few things about surviving in hot weather. First and foremost, hydrate. Don't drink lots of drinks with caffiene. I have no scientific proof, but I feel cooler in 90+ degree heat with a mesh jacket than a T-shirt. It is my thought that the diffused air is circulated around the body, which cools it and evaporates moisture. Exposed skin seems to be heated by friction from the air passing at high velocity. My personal experience, including a few days approaching 1000 miles, is that I am more comfortable wearing spandex athletic undershorts and nylon textile pants than jeans. It is my thought that the nylon does not stretch which provides a stable platform to sit on. Having a skinny butt, I have always had issues with the bones pinching the flesh, so my butt appreciates the more stable platform. I will be wearing all the gear next weekend on the Central KY M&E.
  2. Daveand Barbie
    Before doing anything, I would carefully examine both mating surfaces to see if there is something that is causing the leak to happen after things get heated up. I would agree that one a gasket, I would only use a sealer on one side of it so to make taking it back apart easier. One thing we have used on gaskets that are on engine cases that were intended to be assembled dry is wheel bearing grease. Take a small amount of the grease and massage it into the gasket, then assemble the cases. The grease softens the gasket and causes a bit of a hydraulic effect to the joint that is somewhat self-leveling. You are going to like the Hylomar. It is great stuff!
  3. Daveand Barbie
    Not to threadjack......I have been looking for months for the little push button on that unit that is under the H-PH. They have tiny fingers on the underside that break off. I have asked here before with no success.
  4. Daveand Barbie
    Hylomar was developed by Continental Aircraft for Rolls Royce. I was first introduced to it by an A&P friend who was a Bultaco rider lime me in the early 70's. I bought a big tube from him that had the aircraft information on it. At that time, it was only available through aircraft suppliers. Hylomar was the only thing we could get to adequately seal the cylinder to case on the large bore Bultaco. Some interesting things I learned from him about the product: - it is good to let it set for a few minutes to tack up before assembly - a thin coating is more than adequate to seal a joint - you can clean Hylomar off any surface, regardless os how long it has been there, with a rag dipped in lacquer thinner..........so need to scrape - use an acid brush to spread the product, it helps it go on more uniformly and you use less product Currently, there are 2 formulas for Hylomar. If you do a search, you will find them and will find that one is considerably more expensive than the other. The price matches the quality of the product. The Mazda factory manual for the rotary engine specs the use of Hylomar for joining the water seals between the housings. I have this every time I have rebuilt the engine in my race car and have never had a leak. This stuff just works.
  5. Daveand Barbie
    Being a pro musician and educator, I have always been partial to those who sang the National Anthem as it was intended, without any "personal" interpretation. I would agree that it is not an easy song to sing, with the range being the most difficult aspect, it is still the anthem of our nation. America the Beautiful is the national SONG, and The Stars and Stripes is the national March. This is the most inspiring rendition that I have heard in years....... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTWGv3PlcJ8]NFL 9/11 Tribute and National Anthem - YouTube[/ame] Enjoy! .......and Merry CHRISTmas
  6. Daveand Barbie
    Pine-Sol FTW!!! I have cleaned 5 or 6 sets of carbs for Honda Nighthawks, and this really works! I got the initial information from an airline pilot from Denver who owns the Nighthawk forum. I seem to remember he said he got the info from some A&P at the hangar. This is what I do: 1. Remove carb bank. 2. Remove float bowls, floats, jets, and slides(to be soaked separately) 3. Place bodies in a Tupperware tub with full strength PineSol to cover everything 4. Soak for 24 hours 5. After soak, spray with HOT water and blow dry. I use HOT because it evaporates faster 6. I soak small parts in a basket along with the bodies PineSol will not attack anything aluminum, rubber, fibre, brass, or any other material, so it is completely safe to use. It will, however, leave things very dry so I usually spray some light oil around before putting things together or storing them. This fix has worked every time I have taken a set off and had to clean.
  7. Daveand Barbie
    Smoke wrench.......works every time
  8. Daveand Barbie
    Of the 4 computers in this house(not including tablets) 3 have Ubuntu installed and 1 is a Windows/Ubuntu dual boot. If I didn't have to have Windows to run financial software, they would all be Ubuntu. I have had Ubuntu installed for a couple of years now, and it is as reliable and consistent as the Mac OS. I really like the Asus eee netbook that is now a Hackintosh(came with Windows, now runs Mac OSX).
  9. Daveand Barbie
    I have looked everywhere and everyone seems to want to sell the whole amplifier. If I could find just the plastic surround with good push buttons in it, all would be right in the world again.
  10. Daveand Barbie
    Here you go Fuzzy! http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/2453334371.html
  11. Daveand Barbie
    To share some personal experience....I read on the Nighthawk forum of the success of using Pine Sol as a soak for gummed up carbs. Since it doesn't attack rubber, you don't have to worry about damage. I tried this on 3 sets of carbs so far and it worked great. I washed them after a 24 hour soak with hot water and blew them dry. For cleaning clogged jets, I have used a tip cleaner for a gas welder. They are cheap at the welding supply store and come in a fold out handle with about 20 in it. Each wire is slightly knurled, so you can easily feel when you are approaching the maximum size usable. I know you are near completion of the project but thought it might be useful information in the future.
  12. Daveand Barbie
    Sold the last of our MGB Stash last year and noticed a luggage rack still in the basement. If you want it,it's yours. It is the style that was on the chrome bumper cars. The Prince of Darkness has never been an issue with me and the Healey. I bought my '65 MKIII in 1977, drove it as daily transportation for 4 years, and to this day, it has yet to fail me. As to value, a '67 MKIII Champagne that was nicely restored by Kovacs sold at Barrett-Jackson for $108K. Even though mine is anunrestored original, it is still going to stay under the cover in the garage, except for sunny days, for a few more years.
  13. Daveand Barbie
    I just got these a few weeks back and they didn't have any problem getting them. http://www.sporttour.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?Search=Yes&sppp=10&page=1&Keyword=dunlop%20elite%203&category=ALL&highprice=0&lowprice=0&allwords=dunlop%20elite%203&exact=&atleast=&without=&cprice=&searchfields=
  14. Daveand Barbie
    Thanks for the reply. The push button would appear to be something unique to Mitsu in that the pin that contacts the switch, which is on the PC board, is split with an arrow point on the end to keep it in the plastic surround. One of the legs of that split pin is what is broken so it will no longer lock in the surround.
  15. Daveand Barbie
    This past weekend, on the Central Kentucky ride, the switch that controls the speaker/headphones got a bit strange acting then quit working altogether. When I got home, I took it apart and found one of the legs on the switch had broken off, and because of its size, will be mostly impossible to repair. I wonder if anyone has a spare that they would sell. Either the switch button or the black plastic enclosure that the switch fits in to. I would appreciate any thoughts on a technique to repair it as well.
  16. Daveand Barbie
    Being a fan of The Celebrity Apprentice, I look at Gary Bussey and it reaffirms my belief in wearing a helmet. I have been racing cars and bikes for 40 years and understand the value of safety gear. Asphalt is the equivalent of #4 grit sandpaper. ATGATT
  17. Daveand Barbie
    I have tried quite a number of handmades and have settled on the following as favorites. Excalibur II and Excalibur III - special occasion and weekends El Rey Del Mundo Corona Immensa - good everyday and all-around I prefer a medium bodied smoke with a maduro wrapper. I quit cigarettes in 1986 and picked up cigars in 2008 while on annual winter hiatus in Key West.
  18. Daveand Barbie
    Wiring for Astatic 636L microphone White - audio Shield - ground Red - transmit Yellow - power Blue - common Black - receive There are 4 components that are needed in a microphone. Switch(2 wires) and audio(shield and audio line). You should refer to the wiring diagram for the bike to determine which wires will be necessary for your application. The most likely reason you have feedback is because you have the audio line mixed up with another. I have no experience with that particular microphone but have many years with other Astatic models, especially the Astatic D104. Best of luck to you getting it figured out.
  19. Daveand Barbie
    Ah yes.....learning the circular breathing technique. I bought mine when I was in Sydney for the Royal Easter Show in 1999. Being a pro trumpet player, I learned circular breathing a long time ago. Be careful of the customs clowns if you are coming through LAX. They just HAD to open mine up and in the process, beat both ends of it up and then lost it. Took 3 weeks for them to locate it......
  20. Daveand Barbie
    Real DOT 5 is silicone based and not compatible with anything else. I have been using it in my antique sports cars for 20+ years for the sole reason that it will not absorb moisture like the non-silicone brake fluids will. I wouldn't use real DOT 5 in anything I planned to drive hard because the boiling point really isn't that high. Castrol makes a really good product in their DOT 4 LMA brake fluid, which is available at all the discount stores as well as parts places. LMA means "Low Moisture Absorption". I use it in all the bikes as well as the street cars. The newer DOT 5.1 synthetics like the Valvoline are seeming to get some pretty good reviews, but I don't have any real experience with it. I really don't think that this person is using real DOT 5 in the bike unless he found a bottle on a friend's shelf and decided to use it. Over the counter cost is 3 to 4 times tha cost of normal brake fluid. From your posts, it doesn't sound like this owner is quite that sophisticated.
  21. Daveand Barbie
    Gary, I used 5 - 30. Next time I ride up your way, we will have to get together. I ride up to M-O quite often.
  22. Daveand Barbie
    Over the last two days, I decided to jump in to the "project" before the pretty weather arrived so a few thoughts to share..... Dunlop Elite 3 tires from SportTour in Cincinnati for $117 and $119 seems to be a pretty decent price. They also have a nice website with lots of good things at rather decent prices. No real problems changing then at all and the rear needed no weight to balance at all. While I was in to it, and since I had the Super Brace and some new Progressive for springs, it was only logical to do that at the same time, so I jumped in. The archives on this website were absolutely critical in being able to complete this task with little to no difficulties. To all those who have shared their experiences, I offer a humble and heartfelt "Thank You" Here are a couple of things I learned while doing this project....... - a 5/16 hitch pin clip works just fine in the rear axle nut( had one in the parts drawer) - AutoZone has a set of hex bits in 12, 14, and 17 mm for $9.95 that will be a great addition to anyones tool box. They are 1/2 inch drive and the 17 is perfect for the forks. Anti seize on the threads helps them go back in very nicely. - on the recommendation of a racer friend, I used Mobll 1 full synthetic in the forks. We'll have to see how that works out. - a 3/8 inch impact works nicely for helping remove all kinds of bolts and nuts that have never been touched. The hammering action helps break up corrosion on threads without the fear of breaking things. It doesn't take a high setting at all to move things. After I got everything back together, I just had to go out for a bit to scrub then new tires in a bit. Even with being quite cautious to no get too excited with the new tires, I was astounded with the difference in the feel of the bike. The little voice in the back of my head kept saying "where are those guys on the Ninjas?" but I did my level best to ignore him. Weather or not, I am riding this fabulous machine a bunch this year, starting tomorrow.....
  23. Daveand Barbie
    Interesting thread......had the weather been better, I would have ridden to the area to attempt to buy my family homestead. I have such wonderful memories of that area, as a child, visiting my grandparents. Next decent weekend, I will be on the road to Rogersville.
  24. Daveand Barbie
    No need to be scared.....been using silicone brake fluid in my 45 year old collector car for a long time(about 20 years) and lots of us who restore old bikes use it on plastic parts to freshen up the black plastic. A pint of it goes a long way and it is way cheaper than the silicone based products that are marketed as plastic restorers. Spilled some on the Healey 10 years ago as I was doing a brake service and the paint still shows no adverse issues.....
  25. Daveand Barbie
    I found that DOT 5 silicone brake fluid works great on black plastic to bring back the black color. This is the purple colored brake fluid not to be confused with DOT 5.1 synthetic, which acts as paint stripper!
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