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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    And your back seat will never be empty
  2. GeorgeS
    Sorry, I misread, you said you pulled plug close to start button. and problem stopped. Check to see if the Contacts on the Start Button Switch, are touching metal near the mounting point. Most likly. Or the two wires going to the switch, have gotten pinched together somplace in the handle bars.
  3. GeorgeS
    Remove the Small Wire from the Main Start Solinoid, Now check to see if this wire is Grounded. Then, Check continuity from end where you removed the wire, from the solinoid, back to the plug from the Start button. It should be " above ground " If its grounded, then this ground is what is Actuating the " Start Solinoid " It goes thru a " Start Cut Off Relay" ( at least on the 1st Gens it does ) It is possible that this relay in shorted internally. However that would be a LONG SHOT, but nothing is impossible. Find the Start cut off relay and pull plug out of it, see if this helps. As to location of Relays, I have never worked on 2nd gen, only 1st Gen. sombody else might answer that question. Its behind Headlight on 1st gens, but I don't know where it is on 2nd gens. If the wire you remove from "Start Solinoid" is shorted, then you will have to follow it Inch by Inch, until you find the Short. One more comment. In the work you were doing, Is it possible, you crossed the Plugs on a couple of Relays ??? I think the Plugs are all different, however, I can't be positive about that point.
  4. GeorgeS
    Well, I would check every inch, of every wire that you added, or had you grubby little mits in contact with. OR, maby the start switch has gone, to a DEAD short, or fused itself into the Closed position. The Start Switch, sends a ground to the start cut off relay, which is being held " closed" by other circuits. So, you have a shorted to ground wire, between the " Start Switch" to the " Start Cut Off Relay" or from that relay, going to the " Start Solinoid , or start Relay, as yamaha calls it " From the Start Switch on the handle bar, follow the cable, it should come to a " Pull apart " plug, pull it apart. Now does the starter still run with key ON ???? If not, Start Button is bad. If it does, then wire from plug you pulled apart going to Start Solinoid, is Grounded, ( should not be ) Remove wire, from Solinoid, Does starter still run ???? IF yes, you have a Bad Solinoid. If, Not, then the wire you just pulled going back to the Start Cut Off relay, is shorted to ground someplace. HOwever, as I said at top, go back over every inch of work you did while installing the new Horns. ( Every Electrician Knows this, We learned it the Hard way ) I had a 79 BMW, that was sitting in the garage, with No Key in it, and it was Cranking by itself. But thats another story.
  5. GeorgeS
    Try some Sea-Foam, also, drain the carb bowls.
  6. GeorgeS
    As I understand it, they are " one step UP from and 8 Track tape " Depends on how you look at it. ?? Anyway I got 20 some years of box's full of Cassetts Recorded, from before, CD, and MP3 players. I'm working on getting the stuff moved to CD. I also use an MP3 player on the Bike, Either -- Or, for the time being. Sometimes I listion to the radio also, Sometimes I listion to VHF Ham Radio. Sometimes I listion to the CB. On long trips, between 9AM and noon, on the " Left " Coast, enroute to Calif. I listion to " Rush " If I can find a station carrying the show. Also, I din't have anything else to do today, so it was a good project !! I'm Torn between tearing out all the old radio, casette, CB , and Intercom on the 89, and just putting in a J+M handlebar CB and use and MP3. I almost started doing that this morning, But, I just could not cut that first wire. Well, I'll give it one more trip, if it craps out again, its all comeing out !! As to the Belts, PN 's Are, SCQ10.00 and SCQ4.0 and SCQ6.5 Cost, $2.99 each from this supplier . You need one each. However, shipping was $10.99, so if you can find them closer, you might save a few bucks. --- http://www.action-electronics.com/belts.htm?zoom_highlight=casette+belt The place is in Santa Anna, Calif. 1-800-563-9404
  7. GeorgeS
    My Cassett player has been eating tapes, running slow, and would Not Reverse tape direction. I decided its time to replace the belts, and do some work on it. After opening up the unit, back side, the Y shaped piece of metal over the two Fly Wheels has to be removed to replace the 3 Belts. After doing this, and re-installing, the Unit was running very slow, and stopped. Impression was that of Excessive Friction. I took it apart again and found the following. In the First photo, note where I Marked with 2 Arrows. I had applied too much torque to these 2 #1 phillips head screws. I removed the y shaped metal again and realized that the Center Axels , of the Flywheels run's against this piece of metal. I guess you would call it a friction bearing. If you over torque the two screws, you slow down the flywheel rotation, too much friction. Anyway, I applied some greese to these two Points, under the metal piece, ( Under the two points I marked with an " X " ) Re-installed, and left the two small screws, much looser, and applied some lock tite to them. I also applied 3-in-1 Oil to all the rotating gears, and moveing parts. Layed unit on bike, plugged it into power, and Wa La!! it worked great. And the auto reverse is working good now. Anyway, before you throw away your old unit , or give up on it, if your haveing trouble with it , give this a try. Don't forget to clean the Tape Head.
  8. GeorgeS
    As I under stand the J+M unit, its for any bike that does not have any audio. Its a stand alone unit. Just hook to 12volts. You need their unit, and their head set and Mic set up, and the cable from headset unit to the Radio unit. It takes inputs from mp3 music, and gps, and radar det. Check out their web site, all the equipment and accessories are shown there.
  9. GeorgeS
    Did you use about 1 oz. less fork oil, after installing the new springs ?? The Spring material of the Progressive springs is thicker. So you have less space for Oil. Use 1 to 1 1/2 oz. less oil with the new springs.
  10. GeorgeS
    Start watching E-Bay for a new pumpkin, and maby drive shaft assembly. How many miles on this bike ? Is this noise just noticiable at, say, 40 mph. Or is it really loud ?? If the latter, I think I would pull the pumpkin and drive shaft now, and see what you find. Instead of waiting for the next tire change.
  11. GeorgeS
    I don't have any definitive answer, but I think the first thing I would do is open the bleeder valve on the clutch " Slave cylinder " and see what happens. Can't hurt anything, and might help ???
  12. GeorgeS
    OK, so its mounted in the firewall, front half of computer unit sticking into engine compt, driver side. I looked there, saw two square looking plugs, but they did not look right. However on the passenger side, about same place, there is a plug there, about 1 inch wide, and about 7 inches long. that looks like the best candidate. Oh well, i'm quitting for the day, its to cold out there to work any more. thanks for the help
  13. GeorgeS
    Any members get hit in the big storms around Memphis last nite?
  14. GeorgeS
    I'm doing some work on a 97 Ford F-150 pick up, two wheel drive, with 4.6 Liter V8 Triton Engine. Can anybody tell me the Location in the vehical of the Engine, ECU unit. I can't find it. ?? Any help much appreciated. Thanks
  15. GeorgeS
    you can't reuse them, working with the new ones is bad enough.
  16. GeorgeS
    Ask, " Condor " Might be the " Calif " model, but I'm not sure.
  17. GeorgeS
    Before you spend any money, pull the box out, open it up, and put it in a warm , oven, ( about 105 to 110 deg F ) for a couple hours to dry it out. It might just have moisture in it. If it has a cover on it remove the cover, and ---- Check for cold solder joints where the Plugs on the Box are soldered to the Circuit board. Resolder these, with a 10 to 15 watt soldering iron. Also clean the plug connectors at the TCI, and also follow the wireing from the Pick up coils. There might be a pull apart plug, clean the contacts. Get some CRC brand 2-26, electrical contact cleaner. ( at lowes, or home depot ) or Radio shack has a product. Try this before spending anymore money. Also, Use the CRC 2-26 in the Ignition Switch, and the " Engine Run-Stop " switch if the bike has one. Also, check the Ignition Fuse , and Fuse holder. Make sure you have a good contact at the fuse. Any extra resistance in the circuit that supplies 12V to the primarys of the coils, could be causing trouble. These are just general items to check, a place to start. However the TCI might still be bad. But try the easy , cheap , stuff first.
  18. GeorgeS
    Thanks for the info. I assume not " too " loud.
  19. GeorgeS
    Well, as long as you have it dissassembleed, a complete new clutch assemble and all the small parts is less then $100. So my suggestion would to replace everything. Did you find any loose parts. If so, did you check the crankcase for loose metal ? The cost of parts, is small compared to the work involved. If there is not damage to the 72 tooth large gear I would not hesitate to reuse that.
  20. GeorgeS
    Basic Idea of relay, is so that new equipment, has sufficient current flow capacity. ( like some circuits in your house use, #14, some use #12 and some use #10 wire. There is a reason for that. Its called , the amount of Current Flow thru the wire. Its the same in a 12 volt circuit, and even more important here. And to be able to turn the Added accessories, on and off, if the need comes up. Without, affecting the Stock equipment. Also, to not overtax the current handling capacity of the Stock electrical system's. If the existing wireing is two small to handle added current draw, the wires start to over heat. keep that in mind. And, its just good, standard electrical wireing practice. And , always add a seperate fuse for any new equipmant !!! On a 1st, Gen, the horn circuit, does not have a factory installed relay ! All current for both horns has to flow thru the Switch. Yamaha used #18 wire for the circuit, ( too small ) I added a relay, rewired with #16, and the stock horns are much louder. ( this is just an example as to why relays are a good idea ) Yes, I know it will work without a relay, but a real electrician would never do it that way. Electricity has a nasty habit of getting even on those who try to take short cuts thru the Fuse Box !!!
  21. GeorgeS
    Can anybody give me some idea of what the jardine muf's sound like on a 1st Gen ?? All comments appreciated. Thanks
  22. GeorgeS
    thanks for info, will keep eye on E-bay. Will give this a couple weeks, see if anybody has one here on the web site.
  23. GeorgeS
    I am looking for an Exhaust Chamber, or whatever its called, the box that the 4 pipes feed into, and two Muff's come out of for 1989 model, 1st Gen. Reasonable used condx, and I will open up, gut and take to a welder . If anybody has one for sale, let me know. n7uy@comcast.net direct. I am thinking about ordering one from the fellow that makes new ones, but will try this first , see if anybody has anything. P.S. As of Tomorrow morning, I am officially on " Medicare " Some pills are hard to swallow Thanks,
  24. GeorgeS
    Charging instructions with Odyssey battery are specific. Use a charger that will hold a Steady charge rate, 2 to 4 amps. Your new battery will probably take 2 to 6 hours of charging at a 4 Amp rate to reach a full charge state. Also, see specific information, as to the voltage readings, that will tell you the percent of charge. 12.7 to 12.8 volts fully charged, and 12.0 to 12.4, is a low state of charge. Just putting it on a Trickle charger, Will Not bring it up to a full charge state. !!!!!! Again, carefully read the instructions with the battery, Its NOT the same as a lead acid battery. From "Odyssey " Owner's Manual. -----12.84 volts, = 100 percent -----12.50 volts, = 75 percent -----12.18 volts, = 50 percent -----11.88 volts, = 25 percent Charge time for a fully DisCharged PC680, Charge at 10 Amp Rate, for 2 hours, or 20 AMP rate for 1 hour. ( from Odyssey manual ) I used 4 AMP charger for about 6 hours, on all Three of the New Odyssey's that I purchaced. After letting them sit for couple of hours, they read 12.8 to 12.9 volts.
  25. GeorgeS
    Try getting quotes from a few insuation speciliasts. If anyway possible to upgrade insullation value I still think this is the best Value for any money spent. Remember, it also helps lower Cooling costs in the summer. So you get a double wammie from money spent. I think Insulation Standards have been upgraded in the last 15 years. And newer and better products are avialable. Also, more insullation in the Attic, is usually Easy to install, and thats where you get the most saveings in Heat Loss. Of course this would depend on how your home was constructed, as to how much could be added to the Attic.
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