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similost

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Everything posted by similost

  1. similost
    You're asking a guy that did 100 miles trying to get home from Kentucky on this...
  2. similost
    I'd help you out, but right now I am snowed under bad. Trying to get my Roadie back together, do the 600 mile maint on my venture, get my trailer wired, build a trailer hitch, and not to mention my honey do list... Ya give me a month and I can probably help you out...
  3. similost
    I find shortcuts to usually be the longest path...
  4. similost
    Yeah.. you might be able to.. but why risk other problems down the road? why not just pull all the carbs and do this right and not have any worries a 100 miles from home? If there is a build up of varnish, later on a piece could break loose and plug a jet or passage..
  5. similost
    Go back to your first post.. this is all related to your original post about the 'phrams.. Your carbs need a GOOD cleaning.. Sounds like the bike had sat for quite a while. You can't just pull a bik out of storage and expect to jump on it and ride without a lot of work typically.
  6. similost
    Yep.. overflow tubes... If it was my bike, I'd pull the carbs and pull them all apart and clean them VERY well... I've always used Gunk carb dip for carbs that were varnished bad... You have to be careful with it though and make sure you have ALL rubber and plastic parts removed. This means any shaft seals too...
  7. similost
    Because if you run more you run the risk of blowing out the oil seals.. The seals are only meant to hold so much pressure..... Think balloon.. what happens when you add to much air to it... or how about shaking up a champagne bottle without the wire retainer... Too much pressure... and.... it's gotta go somewhere
  8. similost
    The fuel leak could be from a stuck float.. it is sounding like they may have been varnished up pretty good after hearing that cleaning the pilots helped... Varnish will make a float stick too.
  9. similost
    When I was looking for foam, a set of those steps had come up in google and I gave it a thought.. I also had found the foam play mats for kids that have interlocking pieces. I went to Walmart looking for either of those, and they didn't carry them. I got the idea for an exercise pad, so went back to sporting goods and that's where I found this pad I used.. I have a feeling that if I had put them all side by side to try and decide, I'd probably have ended up taking the pad I did... I'm WAY more than happy with the firmness and comfort of this foam.
  10. similost
    I got it from Wallyworld in their sporting goods section by the tents.. I think it was maybe $12 for the roll? You could do two seats or so with a roll. If you take too much out carving down the new foam, you can always glue a new layer back on top and do over too... It will be a nice hard firm seat.. I would say mine easily feels as firm as my corbin.
  11. similost
    That was acctually the easiest part. As far as pulling the pleat hooks or what ever you want to call them, all you need is a small piece of wire to run through the seat, then hook the wire into the metal piece on the cover (pleat retainer?), and pull through the seat. Since I had actually made the sides and back thinner, the cover stretched over nice and easy...
  12. similost
    I'm not sure what the compression ratio is on these bikes, but premium blend is meant for higher compression engines to help prevent pre-detonation, or spark knock. If you aren't getitng a spark knock from lower octain rated fuels, you really don't need premium. A higher octain fuel is meant to burn at higher temps. If you use a higher octain fuel in a lower compression engine you don't get as full a burn, and carbon will build up faster in the combustion chamber. I won't use premium fuel in anything lower than a 10:1 compression engine. If you are using it in anything lower you are just spending money you don't need to, not getting as complete a burn, and building up carbon in your engine.
  13. similost
    I couldn't srtand my seat on a 400 mile weekend.. I'm STILL sore today. SO, I did something about it... I marked the seat, carved it out like a bread soup bowl, and added a hard foam to it. It's a Coleman sleeping bag pad. Very dense solid stuff.. You can't really tell from the pictures, but I dished it out pretty deep. In the very rear of the seat, I took out all but about an inch of foam. I built that part up about 4". I also took some off the sides in the front so I don't feel like I"m sitting on top of a 55 gallon barrel every time I put my feet down. That made a pretty big difference too. Carved out the space, cut out pieces and built them up, using spray adhesive made for foam, then carved them down with an electric knife, then finish shaped it with a 4" grinder. I put two pieces of foam in the back, and 4 in in the seat. Just got back from a test ride and WOW!!! MUCH BETTER. My hips feel like they are supported, and my tailbone doesn't have all my weight on it. The seat looks all original still. The cover went back on perfect with all the pleats. I still need to take it back apart though. I left a little bit of too high a spot in the very middle of the seat, and I need to take that down. No big deal. Just another hour or so of work. It feals very nice and solid like my corbin does. Not all mushy like before. I LIKE it.. Here's a few pictures... The first is the seat after cutting it out, then one of how I made a pattern for the foam, another inserting the foam, and one with it buit up before shaping.
  14. similost
    Just a thought.. something to check... If the bike hasn't been running for quite a while, and there was any fuel left in the carbs, it could have evaporated and varnished. This will reduce the size of the jets from varnish build up. I would have cleaned them well while I was in there. For carbs that have been sitting a long time, I will find a torch tip cleaner wire that will fit in the jet and run it through a couple times with carb cleaner. I'll also make sure I spray the passages well. OH.. you did check the float levels too right?
  15. similost
    I use the 70-90 Mobile 1 in the transfer case on my Roadie. I just bought a bottle last night to use in the final drive of the Venture. I'll be changing it in the next couple nights... It made a big difference in the noise coming from the transfer case on my R*. Good stuff.
  16. similost
    This is the fileter I use on my Roadie. I'll be buying one for the Venture too... Scotts Performance Filter LOVE IT!
  17. similost
    If you have two big screwdrivers, that's all you really need.. so long as you have the normal wrenches to remove the wheel... If you don't have all that, $40 should buy you everything you need... so everything after the price of one change will be saving you the rest.. To each their own though.. some people don't like to take the time to change their tires.. My reason for doing it is, I don't like ANYONE working on my bike. They aren't the ones that have to ride it. It only takes one loose bolt or nut...
  18. similost
    Most times a couple smacks with a 5lb hand sledge on the end of a 2x4 placed against the bead at the rim will break it, if stepping on it with the heel of your boot doesn't work.. for the hard times, a C-clamp will usually break it.. I'm not a dark sider, so I don't have to worry about breaking tire beads on a MC rim... I used to change Bobcat tires on the floor without a bead breaker, and I'm sure that's a little worse than trying to break a car tire from a MC rim.. It is doable if you know how to hold your mouth right.
  19. similost
    I save my cash for chrome.. yeah.. a tire changer is nice to have, but I change mine on a moving blanket on the floor.. it's a little bit more work, but it's not near as hard as you would think.. Practice makes perfect.. LOL
  20. similost
    Yep.. I'm always working on improving my skills.. and I can ride this bike at slow speed well.. but just because you are good with a bike, doesn't mean it handles well.. just means you can win the battle is the way I look at it... I'll be going to the smaller tire and the leveling links, so hopefully that will take the work out of it and make it more pleasurable in the parking lots and rolling up to lights..
  21. similost
    I was told by the dealer when I just bought mine this past week the only difference between the 2008 and the 2009 is they made the CD player stock, and added $1000 to the price... (so yes, supposedly the cassette is still in there too) Yes, it's the same OLD over priced CD player they sell in the accessory mag.. guess they had too many laying around they needed to get rid of.
  22. similost
    Dont' get me wrong.. I can handle this bike well, but compared to my Roadie, and the Madura I used to own, and a lot of other bikes I've ridden, it just isn't as forgiving at low speeds.. I'll be fixing all that though..
  23. similost

    Way too Cool!!!!

    similost replied to Condor's topic in Videos

    Real men leave huge carbon footprints...
  24. similost
    I got 20,000 miles on the set of platinums in my Roadstar.. I check them every now and then.. they still look good, and the bike runs great... why trash what still looks to be in good condition and works great?
  25. similost

    Way too Cool!!!!

    similost replied to Condor's topic in Videos

    Yeah.. It's cool so far as he built a very cool working electirc bike that probably has some really great acceleration... However his green thinking is WAY off base... He thinks electricity is green? Still lots of coal burnt, or nuclear rods being spent.. then there is the lead and acid in the batteries.. tree huggers crack me up...
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