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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor
    The pads you're talking about are these, but they only fit on a MarkII, and the saddle bag guards need a plate to mount them to. I can't see anyone replacing the entire guard just to add these things. Most guards I've seen are missing the plate. I just took a look at my '83 and I can't see how any pegs could be added and not have them poke the rider. The bag guard ends towards the back of the passenger seat, and if you found a way to mount the pegs where the passenger could use them, somebodies going to be very unconfortable.....
  2. Condor
    You'll always get a rise out of 1stGen owners with a 'fishing' post like that. No matter how you wanna explain it away. We're a fervent lot, and very content with our bikes. I just don't see as much 2ndGen bashing from 1st's as I do the other way around. I'm not sure what the reason is, but I'm sure there'll be lots of suggestions after this post. I guess you have to ride one to understand...
  3. Condor
  4. Condor
    I'm kinda hesitant to put a whole lot of weight on top of the trunk. Since I don't ride 2up the passenger seat handles a Tourmaster tank bag perfectly, and it's got all sorts of storage and pockets for do-dads. The pic makes it look like it slopes funny, but it actually sits fairly straight up. http://www.pashnit.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=63596&stc=1&d=1201371003
  5. Condor
    You might want to check the wireless card in your computor. Mine was doing the same thing and I replaced the 'El Cheepo' Ebay card with one from a local outlet and the problem disappeared. Found that the antenna on the Ebay card was busted. Every once in a while the wireless router gets constipated, and the cycle off/on works OK to get it going again. My baud rate is usually 7.5MB to 9.2MB download and usually 9+MB upload.
  6. Condor
    Outside of a couple of subtle differences, the 1st and 2nd are the same motor. The 2nd head rear exhaust ports are outboard instead of inboard, and the water pump housing is a different shape. Haven't looked real hard at the rest of the motor, but the internals are basically the same.
  7. Condor
    No Problem Dan. Keep me posted...
  8. Condor
    They're out of both types Cindy. So ordering an MJ won't make any difference. You're pro'bly looking at somewhere around the 10th of May before you'll see one. Sorry..... Although... they said that the last time, and the batteries actually came in sooner.. As soon as we get as least 10 members paid for I'll submit the list for shipping. The sooner the better to get them in the works.
  9. Condor
    Thanks Cliff. It's duly noted...
  10. Condor
    Nothing. The metal jacket was added for those big Vtwins with lots of vibration, as they were causing a few battery cases to seperate. Odyssey assumed that because our's were V4's they would fall into the same shaky catagory so they recomended the MJ for our bikes. When I explained that ours don't come close to producing the same motion as a VT they said the standard would be fine. The jacket is nothing more that just that... a jacket placed around the standard housing. If you pry the jacket off you'll find a standard battery.
  11. Condor
    I thought that now would be a good time to start another group buy, and called Odyssey to check on pricing, I just got off the phone with them and everythings a go, however they are out of stock on both the PC545 and the PC680, but they expect to receive a new shipment the first week of May, so the timing's right. We still need to get 10 members.... or more. PC680, PC680MJ http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc680_sm.jpg For 1stGens, the Odyssey is PC680. Your price each to your doorstep will be $110.00. Be aware that this is the non-metal jacket battery. I discussed the application at length with Odyssey , and they reiterated what they had said in the past about not needing the heavier MJ version for our 1stGens, but if anyone would like one of the PC680MJ's the price will be $121.00 to your doorstep. Also take note that the batteries will be fresh, and haven't been sitting on a dealers shelf for an extended period of time. PC545, PC545MJ http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc545_sm.jpg For 2ndGens the Odyssey is PC545. Your price each to your doorstep will be $104.00. If you'd like the PC545MJ (Metal Jacket) it will be $118.00 Payments are to be sent via Paypal to paypal@cast-aways.com Batteries will be drop shipped directly from the supplier, except for those batteries going into Canada. They'll be bluk shipped to me and then shipped from here. There will be a shipping surcharge for those batts shipped to Canada. I'll probably do the same thing as the MAC's which seemed to keep the cost down, and be agreeable with everyone. The prices work out to be Dealer cost plus $20 bucks to cover shipping and paypal charges. The last time I charged $15, but I ended up loosing about 4 bucks per battery. So this time I'm covering my rear... Canadian shipments will need to be adjusted once I get one here to do a shipping estimate. If you have any questions, or see something that's missing from the above please PM me. Jack
  12. Condor
    Yep, the 'born on' date is located on the top lable by the negative (-)anode. There's a white area with the battery serial number, and right under neath is the 4 number manufacture date. i.e. 1207= 12/2007. Anything purchased lately will be extremely fresh as the wholesaler is constantly out of the PC545's and PC680's. Both regular and Metal Jacket. I'm thinking about doing another group buy on the Odyssey's very soon. I just checked and they expect another supply of batteries in the first week of May. Of course they've said that before, and the batteries showed up sooner than expected..... I'll post the group buy info in it's own thread.
  13. Condor
    The onus is on the guy that bought the bike. If he'd have looked into shipping a little bit more to find out how the bike would have been prepped and stored, and bought insurance, there wouldn't be a problem. If it's the same bike, and was shipped cheapest way, then he has no one to blame but himself. The sad part about it is it could have been prepped and shrink wrapped for way less than what it's going to cost him to repair the damage.
  14. Condor
    Somebody swapped out the bikes. That chrome chin fairing in the pic is from an 83-84. It won't fit an 86-93. Did you take any pictures of you 86 being loaded??? OK, my bad. I see by the pic in your gallery that you had one of the early chrome chins installed. Must be using the earlier crash guards...
  15. Condor
    About the only place that might possibily happen is in St Maarten. Other than the up close and personal landing and take offs, I can't think of any other place it could occur, and any body kite surfing in the approach needs his...or her head examined.... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAfQwDizpRo&NR=1]YouTube - 747 Landing - St.Maarten[/ame]
  16. Condor
    That's catchin' air big time.......
  17. Condor
    Invite them to frequent this board if they want ideas and opinions.....
  18. Condor
    I don't know where they come from Squeeze. Maybe it's where all those insane Gremlins that get caught by guardian bells go to die.??
  19. Condor
    Shoot? You're no fun.... :) The only difference between the 5 and the 10 micron hole (example) would be that larger particles would pass thru and reduce the possibility of brakes locking up and clutches slipping due to fluid expansion, rather than the hole plugging up with the tiniest particle. And it seems that this problem is quite common with our bikes, right next to reserves that are over filled. The next time I get into rebuilding a brake master I'm going to modify an extra one by enlarging the hole and install it to see the effect...if any. That said, nothing beats regular fluid changes, to keep clutch and brake systems happy......
  20. Condor
    OK Squeeze, I'm open to learning something here. Let's say for discussion that the OEM opening of the hole is 5 microns and we opened it to say 10 microns, and since hydralics doesn't occur until the lip of the cup moves past the hole, what would the difference in hydralic movement be with that little difference in hole size??? Also remember that the edge of the cup only retracts just past the opening when at rest, and sits in front of the fluid supply hole. So the piston cup edge only has to move slightly before the hole is closed off and hydralic action occurs. I personally think that the difference would be very little, but perhaps there's something I'm overlooking??? I understand that Honda actually has a larger hole and puts a baffle over the opening to prevent fluid from going airborn....
  21. Condor
    Squeeze, over all, the effective compression seal of the piston cup, with an expansion hole a couple of thousandths bigger diameter would be insignificant. Now granted the bleeding process might get a little more messy due to the increased flow of fluid out of the hole on the initial piston stroke....
  22. Condor
    I'm wondering..... and that's dangerous... Why is the master expansion hole so damn small. I would think that it could be made a bit larger and microscopic 'grunge' wouldn't plug it up. I understand that the hole is a potential wear point for the piston cup, but maybe a couple of thousandths bigger would git rid of the rear brake lock ups and clutch slipage, and still not cause premature wear????
  23. Condor
    OK... what ever you say...................
  24. Condor
    What ever you say.... Good Luck.. After writing the above smart ass response I want to go on record that apologies by me are due. I misread 'square seal' as 'squeel'. And you're right they due include a packet of assembly lube with the kit. However, I stand by my statement about removing the pistons one at a time, and most of the folks who know way more than I do seem to agree. If you want to take a chance and mix them up go ahead. As far as cleaning out the cavity of the caliper, a good wash out with brake fluid by filling shaking and draining will suffice. Blowing air thru the cavity from just one of the cylinders will also help blow crystals out the bleeder valve. Using 0000 steel wool isn't going to hurt a thing. As far as residue from the wool creating problems because it'll rust, give me a break. The caliper and piston are steel.... it all rusts given the chance. Further more wiping off the cylinder walls and washing the opening out with brake fluid and blowing out with air, will remove what little of the fillings remained. Using anything harsher than 0000 and hatching the walls can cause premature seal wear. Educated... I don't think so.
  25. Condor
    That's got you name written all over it Squeeze. Go for it.....
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