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hilliss

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Everything posted by hilliss

  1. We would love to be added to the Vendor list. While most of our sales take place on eBay, we discount heavily to VR members. Example... our $159.99 receiver hitch and stinger sell for $150 (free delivery) on VR.org Your call Freebird.
  2. I would like to send our flashing 1157's to you just to give me some feedback on. If you hate them, let me know. If you like the, let me know. All the talk about the costs.... after eBay and Paypal fees, and my time in cutting, wrapping wires, printing color instructions.... the kit is to encourage lots of folks who might not normally tackle a basic wiring job on their Venture. I'm not going to ever get rich making $3-4 an hour doing this - but I do like meeting other Venturers. I am also the guy who makes our laser cut and powder coated mounting plates for the exhaust conversion. After paying to laser cut, and then the powder coating, that is a real "labor of love" as well. Anybody ever want to stop by my house and help me hand cut the carpet liners for the trunks and saddlebags, or wrap the light bars, or build the quick fasteners, is more than welcome to. Makes the old hands sore! Thanks to everybody who has been so great to get to know! And who has been so supportive! I am always more than willing to point folks in the right direction to make a kit themselves, cut their own mounting plates, etc (and that is noted in my ad on this site). Mark Hillis
  3. Could be mistaken, however I believe all HD touring bikes (including 2008) will have the cat in the pipes themselves. You can always drill through, or look for a set of older take-offs with the P/N ending with 95, 95a, 98, or 98a. This will mean that the pipes do NOT have a catalyst.
  4. Nice to see the notes - I really appreciate it. The Quick Fasteners that we have sold now for well over a year, and used ourselves for longer than that, hold up great. We also guarantee them for as long as you own your bike - no questions. Yes, you can make these yourselves... yes, you can use other bolts... just a personal preference. To each his/her own. I take my bags off quite often for cleaning... so I hated the allen head bolts. We are in the final stages of a center stand, and hope to have it priced well under $200 (no, no chrome - I dont want chrome underneath my bike... - but a black powder coat, and better spring mechanism than I have found on other stands). Mark Hillis
  5. I too, only use Commanders. Good price point, great grip, higher mileage tire than some others. Get every bit of 15k out of the rear, and always 5k over that on the front. I dont ever push my bike too hard into the corners, so I have not noticed any additional noise. Certainly MUCH quieter than the stock Dunlaps. But I also am very loyal to Michelin, and only use their tires on our vehicles as well.
  6. Its not they year that determines the catalyst.... some 2005's and earlier used a catalyst muffler on one side..... What is important is the P/N (part number) If the pipes end with a P/N of "07"... they ARE catalyst mufflers. Now, this wont matter if you remove the catalyst for drill straight through the mufflers. But again, what you are looking for are P/N's ending in 95, 95a, 98, or 98a on BOTH pipes. You can find these used on eBay... every once in a blue moon, you can also find a new take off set on eBay. just check your P/N's
  7. David - You want "non-catalyst" mufflers. They need to be off a HD Touring Bike (Road King, and many other models). You can use other mufflers with the catalyst (I have) and these will be what your HD dealer will have as they are on the newer HD's. Or you can look around, (craigslist, eBay, etc) for pipes taken off an older HD (new take offs are out there) without the catalyst. Here are the P/N's (part numbers) you are looking for.... They will end with the following numbers if they are non-catalyst mufferls off a touring HD. 95 95a 98 or 98a Make sure you check the P/N's on BOTH mufflers
  8. Three options that I know folks have used: (1) rotozip a slit in the head, and use a flat head driver to remove (2) drill a hole directly across the head of the bolt, through that hole, insert a short nail (cut the nail down if needed), use channel lock pliers to grip the head (with the nail through it - helps the channel locks grip the head) (3) spray the bolt (backside) with a penatrating fluid like PB blaster before you try to remove the bolt - this way, if it is rusted in, or somebody had used a threadlock, you have a fighting chance of getting the bolt back out. Keep a shop towel over your rear fender and bags when spraying any fluids just in case there are paint issues. It can always be drilled, but I find you can cause more damage this way if you dont do it right. And you are working in a confined space within a really nice and expensive saddlebag.
  9. Folks - You want to put a kit together yourself, shoot me a PM and I will give you the part numbers you need. Bob - We are 45 miles south of you. You ever want to come help press these things together, come see us. We make about minimum wage on these after eBay and Paypal fees, and our time in pressing these together - minus trips to the post office, etc. Come on down and I will be happy to pay you minimum wage to work for us! We do this around our regular jobs nights and weekends. JV - If you bought these from us on eBay, and are not happy, we send a note out to everybody who buys any items from us, that we guarantee these for as long as you own your bike. These are all standard sizes and fit every Venture from 1999 to present. There is no reason these should not fit your Venture. Shoot me some photos of your bags and how they are sitting on your saddlebag mounts. There should be plenty of thread to spare on all of these. But what is important is to make sure we get these to work, or offer you a refund (what is your eBay id - PM me). Just like most items, anybody can do anything themselves... just got to be willing to put in the time and effort! Our benefit is that we guarantee everything - stand behind everything - and even for folks who want to make these themselves, tried to price these at a level which was reasonable for folks who were waivering between putting a set together on their own, or buying from us. Thanks folks and ride safe! Roger & Mark R-Mark Ventures
  10. Check any local bike or HD dealer for VTwin 31-9920 clamps.
  11. Get yourself a set of VTwin 31-9920 chrome clamps. They have the width to cover the exposed area. I can e-mail you a couple photos of mine if you want to see what they look like with the VTwin clamps. PM me if you would like photos
  12. Sorry - posted that last one under 1st Gen.... Regardless - somebody (appears to be a bike salvor) is parting a low mileage Millenium. Greatful that my Millenium is not in need of anything... but I also know how hard it is to find Millenium specific parts (tank, trunk, fairings, bags, etc). Much as I hate to see anybody take one of these apart.... if you need Millenium specific parts... look now on eBay.
  13. FLH mufflers are the same and will work just fine. Check your part numbers to make sure you are getting non catalyst mufflers. You will need Squidleys mounting plates for a good mount, and some clamps. I have run these on two of my Ventures now... they are a great deal and give you a nice deeper sound, without extra noise.
  14. The Ventures still have that "motorcycle" sound and feel. Much more comfortable than the Goldwing or Valkyrie's for the driver (although my wife also prefers the Goldwing or Valkyrie Interstate for passenger seating. Venture doesnt have the vibration a "twin" will have - but will certainly have more vibration than the Honda line. I ride 60 miles a day (work commute) and have also put over 5k on mine in 2008 on trips (2500 miles; 2000 miles; and 500 miles)... one thing most Venture owners and riders will tell you (1st or 2nd Generation) is that you can ride these for long distances and long hours. Got ride of my Valkyrie Interstate because it might as well have been a Honda Civic! You wont be disappointed with the Venture.
  15. Sometimes.... simplicity is the answer! Thank you Johnh, McCarl, Gibvel and Neil86... it was that idle screw. It had backed out and I was synching at too low an RPM.... As I turned the idle screw (which directly effects carb #2), the idle raced, and then I synched #1 and #2 which brought the idle right back down, and the vacuum balanced right up. Then went back to 3 and 4 (still fine) so synched 3 and 4 to 1 and 2.... idle was still a little high for my liking, so with the carb tuner still on, I played another couple seconds with it and then off I went!! Thank you again.... nothing like knowing it isnt supposed to be this hard, but your mind not allowing you to solve it because of frustration! And I would be pulling the hair out.... but none left to pull!! If any of you are ever through Kentucky, shoot me a note... I owe you each lunch!
  16. Looking for any suggestions on this one (see my other thread). I have high vacuum in carb #2 on my 99 RSV. Other carbs are right in line. Idle is fine. Have not had any spark plug issues. Carbs 1, 3, and 4 have 10 in Hg and Carb 2 has 19?? I have gone through the entire synch process again... but I am stumped. I good suggestion was a closed throttle plate on #2 (Thanks Johnh).... and I am wondering if this is the case, how do I adjust the throttle plate on just carb #2??
  17. Alright - still need help. Went back out and walked through everything again. Idle is right on the money. Went to sync #1 and #2 (as it is #2 that has high vacuum)..... used the correct sync screws from the right side of the bike as I had before. I cannot get #2 to come back down in vacuum. But 1, 3, and 4 are all sync'd. If I have a throttle plate that is closed..... how do I adjust that on just 1 carb? Thanks!
  18. Thanks - Hopefully this will do it. I kept trying to understand how the vacuum would be so high in cylinder two, while perfectly on point with 1,3 and 4. But a closed throttle plate would certainly make sense. To adjust the engine idle then, the screw on the left side of the bike (when sitting on it) first?
  19. Good suggestion. I have a Motion Pro 4 Channel. I had swapped lines on it just in case if was an issue with my dials (a couple times actually)... but nope - the guages are in sync and correct. I had actually quoted the cm of Hg, not the inches. I am running 10 inch on 3 cylinders, and 19 inch on the front left cylinder.... I am baffled.
  20. 1999 RSV - 32k miles.... already ran my SeaFoam through for 2008. Was synching the carbs, and the front left (if sitting on the bike) is going nuts. Havent fouled a plug... but, all the other carbs are balanced to each other at 25 Hg, and front left swings to 45-50 and will not come back down. Any thoughts before I pull the carbs off the bike for a thorough cleaning only to potentially discover it might be something simple I am overlooking? Thanks all for any input.
  21. Your not a "spoilsport" that is what these forums are for right? Thinking out loud and bouncing ideas off other folks. I appreciate it.
  22. Good point. I was thinking about venting into channel so that anything that came into the vent, could only come out through the channel directly to the rider - and in that way, miss any electronics.
  23. Has Anybody Done This To Their Bike? I Had This On My Other Bike (valkyrie Interstate) - Huge Difference In Summer Riding. Was Thinking About Zipping An Opening In The Fairing And Installing A Vent On Each Side For Summer Riding.
  24. Actually, when the bike is in the garage (as little as possible of course), the centerstand allows for easier storage (less space taken up with lean). Just a personal preference I guess. I have not experienced any issues with getting any part of my RSV too low now during cornering, and the photos I have seen with center stands dont appear to compromise much. My Honda Valkyrie Interstate on the other hand, tended to want to corner a little lower (just felt like it could lean a little lower in the curves than my RSV)... and never had any issues with it either. So may be as simple as the way some of us drive as compared to others. I heard back from Allen at Diamond R, and their stand is chrome... but about $70 less than the Rivco stand. So I could always paint it black if I cannot find anything else.
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