Midrsv
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Everything posted by Midrsv
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I would rather be working on the bike but I am stuck working on a kitchen update. New countertop, sink and backsplash. Should be done with it this weekend. Dennis
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Thanks again for all of the advice. I ended up using the Dremel oscillating tool. The granite people gave me a scrap piece of granite to use as a guide to cut. I placed it adjacent to the garage and leveled on the cabinet and ran the cutter along the stone. I ended up with a blades width of clearance with the stone. Inside the garage along the back wall I cut about 1/4 inch more clearance since it doesn't show. They come tomorrow to install the granite and undermount sink and then after that cures for a day I get to reconnect my plumbing and install a new disposer. And maybe next weekend start on a travertine backsplash. Got to get this job finished before riding season. Dennis
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Thanks, I've been across SD and MT several times already an ND was one of the few states I haven't been to so I was trying to integrate it into the trip. Dennis
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Thanks for the info and link to the photos. The only hill I saw there was an overpass. I would expect it to be rather flat in ND as well. And, I am assuming that it would be worth enduring the flat lands to get to Banff. From the photos I've seen that area looks as beautiful as Glacier. Dennis
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I'm beginning to plan this summers big trip and we are considering a ride from Central Ky to Banff National Park and Lake Louise. I think I wold like to go north to MN and then NW through ND and cross into Canada at Portal. From there follow hwy 39 to the Trans Canada Highway and then go west to Calgary. From the maps some of that are looks to be sparsley populated. Can anyone give me info on the route. Are there adequate fuel stops and lodging along the route? Are the highways in good shape? After visiting the Banff area we would probably drop back south and go through Glacier National park again and then on south to Yellowstone and Jackson Hole before turning back east. Just starting to think about the trip and direction. Thanks, Dennis
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A paper shredder
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Congratulations on the trailer. Your going to like it. I have the Aluma MC210 and I've had good luck just using the wheel chock that came with the trailer. I've hauled both the Venture and the wing with it. I just pull the bike against the stop, put the sidestand down, get off and then tie it down. I put the left tiedown on first and then ratchet the right side down snug to pull the bike back up straight and off of the side stand. Dennis
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I had that happen on both of my RSV's, an '04 and '07. Both radio controls were replaced under warranty, twice on the '07 Dennis
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Since I live right at the county line in the event of a burglary it would likely take the sheriff 10 minutes to get here and he would probably be too late. I want the noise for three reasons. One to let me know someone is coming in, to make some noise to draw attention to the house, and to annoy the burglar. Dennis
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Squid, I installed my own system several years ago and I also put one in my parents home. They are not difficult to install if you have a basement. I have door switches, glass break detectors, and motion sensors. I bought most of the components online. I have a siren outside and one inside and it is loud. In our area it doesn't do much good to have the system monitored because we only have a sheriff's office to respond and they only have a couple of people on duty at nights. I can have it monitored if I want to but I use it mainly as a deterent and noisemaker. I also wanted to know if someone comes in the other end of the house while I am asleep. They only time I've had a false alarm was when the cat knocked a glass shelf down and it set off the glass break detector. I believe I installed mine for around $600. Dennis
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We were scheduled to start this project on Monday. After further consideration we are going to postpone until the first of January. In addition to the issue with cutting the garage, which I think I can handle, I believe I may have some issues with the new sink and my existing disposer and plumbing. Since we had planned to go with an undermount sink with our existing disposer I was looking at the drain lines and I believe the disposer drain would end up below the drain pipe going into the wall. So I need to research the sink and compare it to my existing sink and find out if I need a new disposer to go with it or if I need to stay with an overmount sink. It's just too rushed to pull this off before the holidays. Dennis
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Can't do that. The side walls of the garage are also the upper cabinet side walls. To get that cabinet down all of the cabinets have to come down. I'll stick with our current counters before I tackle that. Dennis
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There are other android browsers but you would need a google account to access the app marketplace. Dennis
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Now that is a solution. But if I want to continue to eat regularly I won't dare make that suggestion. The toaster rarely gets used but the mixer is cranked up several times a month. Dennis
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Unfortunately, it is only 3/4. My counter guy said it was probably shimmed up to 1.5 inches but no such luck. And these were high end custom cabinets in their day, 23 years ago. Dennis
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Now that's the truth. New counter, new sink, new faucet, under cabinet lights, travertine backsplash. That's just what's planned. I'll also probably need a new disposer. She's already commenting on needing a master bath update. Geesh. Haven't even got this project underway yet. Dennis
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I bought this tool http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=Multi-Max+MM20 I did a test cut with it and it made a very clean cut but was slow. I looked at the Porter Cable and wanted to buy it but it seemed to only use Porter Cable attachements and at Lowes they did not have a blade like this one http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=MM452 which had an offset hub. Dremel was the only tool at Lowes that had that type of blade. The others were just a flat blade that would be held off of the surface by the locking nut/collar. The door is no problem because it is a roll-top and it will just not come all the way down. Doesn't come down all the way now. Dennis
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I just got back from Lowe's where I bought a Dremel multi-tool and a 3" blade. I just test cut a piece of 1/2 inch plywood and while it was very slow it did make a very smooth cut as long as I had the blade flush on a horizontal surface. I need to practice some more before I try the real cut. Dennis
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Unfortunately, these cabinets were custom made and the garage walls extend all the way to the top and act as the side wall of the cabinet above. It was worth a look though. Thanks, Dennis
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We've contracted to have new countertops installed in our kitchen. Currently we have a laminate top which is 3/4 inch thick with a 1 1/2 inch facing edge on it. We are switching to granite which is 1 1/4 inches thick. To complicate matters we have an appliance garage in the corner which rests on the countertop with the countertop screwed into it from the bottom. Because of the thickness difference I'm going to need to trim 1/2 an inch from the bottom of the garage. The garage is a full cabinet with sides and back. Does anyone have a clever way to trim that neatly while in place. I'm thinking one of the oscillating multi tools with a 270 degree saw blade might work. Taking the cabinet off the wall is not an option because the cabinets on either side would have to come down first and one of those cabinets is about 10 feet long and fully loaded. The granite company won't cut it for me and if I can't devise a reasonable way to trim the cabinet the deal is off. Any ideas? below are photos of the cabinet. Thanks, Dennis
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But Don, the Iphone has a great mapping program that is standard on the phone which is just like google.maps. It may be using the google maps for all I know. You can enter the address search and it will pop to it and give you the opportunity create a route from your location. I find it much easier than entering the address in my gps. Android phones have the same feature I believe. The map will show a standard view or a satellite view just as google maps does. Dennis
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Don, I agree with you regarding the data usage that you pay for should be available regardless of how you use it. However, with AT&T it's not an Apple issue preventing you from tethering. You can't tether your Android phone either. There was an app on the app store a few days ago that allowed you to tether your laptop but it was pulled from the app store within a few hours. I've read that people that have jailbroken phones that are tethered have received notices from AT&T that because they sensed the tethering that their plans were automatically changed to the tethered plan and they lost thier grandfathered unlimited plan. I don't agree with it. I think Verizon terms are similar. Give the Iphone a chance. I think you'll find it is a very valuable tool to have around that just happens to be a phone. Dennis
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I would throw another vote in for Canon DSLR's. However I think the recent (last 3 or 4 years) Nikons have caught up to Canon. I've been shooting with Canons since their original DSLR, the D30. Since then I've used a 20D, 40D, 5D and 5D Mark II. For a bike camera I carry Canon SX230HS compact camera. It is a pretty good compact with a long zoom and good low light performace with a CMOS sensor. I paid about $350 for mine and I noticed today Best Buy has it in their sale flyer for $199. A good deal I think. Dennis
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For those without a landline but you have internet, you can get a free Google Gmail account and utlize their free phone call feature from your computer. All you need is a webcam or microphone. The calling is free nationwide. Dennis
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Don, now that you've moved to a smart phone you will no doubt need multiple iPhone data/charger cables. One for each computer, car charger, bike charger, etc. Don't fall for the pricing at the local retailers or the Apple store. They will want $15 to $20 for a usb iphone cable. I recently bought 3 cables off of Ebay for $0.97 delivered. All three for $2.97. I've bought wall chargers and car chargers for $6.00 or less. Dennis
