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6m459

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Everything posted by 6m459

  1. 6m459
    Hi, My '84 has some places (where the P.O. had some stickers that I have removed) where the silhouette of old stickers is still evident. The paint hasn't faded the same where the stickers had been, as on the rest of the bike. The paint looks newer and shinier where the stickers had been. Also, the top surfaces of my side bags are quite faded, the worst areas on the bike. The sticker spots are on the vertical surfaces of the side bags. Seems to me that some polishing or buffing compound might be called for, but I have no experience in this realm. What do the venturerider experts recommend in such cases? Thanks, Brian H.
  2. 6m459
    Hey Louich, Where abouts in Ontario are you? There are a fair number of us in Ontario, if one of us is close to you, perhaps a second pair of eyes on the problem might help. Cheers, Brian H.
  3. 6m459
    I wimped out when I found a little shop locally that would do the bearing swap job for me. I bought the 6303zz bearings at Canadian Bearings' scarborough location for $15.00 ea and took them and the wheel to the shop. The Re & Re job cost me $20.00, money well spent I think. Thanks for the support, advice and assistance. Cheers, Brian H.
  4. 6m459
    My stator passed all these tests but needed to be changed anyways. Initially I bought an aftermarket one from RMstator who resell ones made by Electrosport. This worked for exactly a month and failed. Electrosport honoured their warranty and replaced the faulty unit but that took a month. Riding seasons are short enough up here in Canada so I put in a used OEM one I bought on ebay for $15 in the meanwhile. The used OEM one is still in use and the replacement Electrosport one is still in my parts bin. Hope this helps. Brian H.
  5. 6m459
    Here is a pic of my replacement fuse block http://home.powergate.ca/~bjh/pix/P0002238.JPG I used a pair of Littlefuse part #03500417XP's ganged together. One of these setups has been in flawless service for about 5 years now and I did the second one as a matter of course when I bought the second bike. The OEM fuse box is CRAP. The swap isn't difficult if you approach it methodically. It'll give you peace of mind and buys you space for extra fuses to add more electrical stuff. Mine sits neatly on top of the battery and is just tall enough to touch the inside of the cover which helps to hold it in place. My approach was to get the new fuseblock ready and then cut one wire at a a time off the old and connect it to the new fuseblock, then going on to the next wire. Working one wire at a time minimizes chances of mixing up one wire for another. Cutting wires right up close to the old fuseblock allowed me just enough wire to connect to the new one as you see it in the picture. This method worked well for me. Hope this is useful. Brian H.
  6. 6m459
    I plan to pull the bearings in. I don't like the looks of the hammering in the TUSK tool video. Seems rather inelegant. What I had in mind was to use a piece of threaded rod, sized as close as possible to the ID of the bearing & finest available thread pitch, through the rotational axis of the wheel with BIG washers at the side I want stationary. My BIG washer(s) would put the pulling load on the hub of the wheel on the stationary side. On the side I am pulling the bearing into I plan to have washer(s) just smaller than the OD of the bearing which would evenly distribute the load across the entire surface of the bearing. OK, all this is theoretical and I don't have any of this stuff at hand right now but I forsee being able to pull it all together no prob. (no pun intended, but its a good one) How does that sound? Thanks, Brian H.
  7. 6m459
    Ok so, I want to change my front wheel bearings as I think its time. I can get new bearings no prob. I can press in the new bearings no prob. My question is how does the home garage weekend mechanic pull the old bearings out ? I see fancy [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArFC3xPHhGA]tools [/ame]sets advertised to do such jobs, but I just don't have the budget for that, nor would I use it often enough to justify even if I did. I have looked for tool rental places but no motorcycle tools appear to be offered. Sure, I could pay someone to do it for me but that's no fun. There must be some trickery I can use. Lay it on me folks. Thanks, Brian H.
  8. 6m459
    Ok, I have the 'pumpkin' off and there is quite a lot of old grease at both ends of the shaft. I can personally attest that this grease has been there for the last 31,000 miles at least. The grease is grey blue in colour and is abit runnier than I would have expected. Should I be wiping / scraping off all the old grease prior to applying new or just add more? My plan was to lube it up with some dark lithium based grease that I have at hand but I read about moly grease in posts here and at the other Venture site. Should I be running out to get some of moly instead? Thanks, Brian H.
  9. 6m459
    The first gen drive shaft I understand is unobtainable other than used these days. I see a few on ebay but many are for later years of the first gen. Is the drive shaft part itself common across the first gen years or does it evolve so that a late model one would be of no use for use in an '84 ? Thanks, Brian H.
  10. 6m459
    Hi, I have my rear wheel off as I am having a new tire mounted on the rim for me. While the wheel is away and the bike is presenting its drive shaft so obligingly, I'd like to do the recommended drive shaft service. (guilt:8:) I have read the tech library item on d/s service and searched out relevant posts on the subject but I don't find any pictures. Can anyone point me to any pictures of drive shaft service underway? If not, perhaps I'll supply some after I do the work. Thanks, Brian H.
  11. 6m459
    Well I likely would have used something in those threads too, but I think its the first time I have ever taken the rear wheel off and on again my self on this bike. Prior to this, when changing tires, I have always had it done for me by the shop I bought the tire from. This time however the shop I chose to deal wih had a 'no old bikes in the shop' policy so it was a wheels only transaction. Oh well, it'll be right for the next guy who takes it off anyways. Cheers, Brian H.
  12. 6m459
    Got that sucker out of there. The Kroil worked its magic overnight! Kroil and patience, what a team. I got hold of the end of the bolt with my nicest, newest, sharpest pair of vice grips (fwiw, v.g.'s are my desert island tool btw). I rocked it back and forth gradually and soon was able to get it to screw all the way out. I am definitely going to put a bit of lithium grease in that thread when I reassemble. Thanks for all the moral support and suggestions. A great help as always. Cheers, Brian H.
  13. 6m459
    Thanks skydoc for the detailed info. I am facing a rebuild like this on my red bike. Some or all of it I guess as the pedal just doesn't feel right. Your write up is a keeper! I'll be printing it off for shop reference as I work. Cheers, Brian H.
  14. 6m459
    Yes, the wheel is off. http://www.powergate.ca/~bjh/pix/DSC00251-800.jpg I am getting new tires tomorrow! Thanks, Brian H.
  15. 6m459
    I was removing my rear wheel today and somehow managed to sheer off the axle pinch bolt. I was surprised 'cause I didn't put a lot of force into it, but I guess leverage did the trick. Anyways, I have a small amount of the end of the bolt sticking out at the underside of the pinch. It seems pretty well seized in there. I immediately reached for the kroil and got it started soaking for about half an hour. I then put a nice sharp pair of vicegrip jaws onto the protruding bolt end, but still couldn't shift it. I then tried heat but no go so far. I am going to let the kroil soak over night and then have another go in the morning. If still no joy, I think I'll try MORE heat, lots more heat. I am being very gentle as I don't want to run the risk of sheering off or damaging the protruding bit of the bolt, which would leave me nothing to work with. Have I overlooked any other good approaches here ? I really don't want to have to drill this out! Advice welcome. Thanks, Brian H.
  16. 6m459
    Glad to hear you were able to bring it to a stop without injury. Sudden lock up of the back wheel in such instances has always been a nightmare of mine about riding such an old bike. Good luck with the repair. I'll be reading for your analysis and will help out if I can with suggestions. Brian H.
  17. 6m459
    I have a rear cyl exhaust leak problem too. It seems to leak right at the exhaust port on the LHS rear cyl. I have had a couple of, half hearted, goes at fixing it but always come away cursing the limited amount of space there is to work on that rear exhaust area! I changed the whole exhaust system on my bike, except for the mufflers and that back manifold. I installed OEM replacements from Ebay, the muffs and rear mani didn't need replacement as it happened. After reading this thread, I have to ask. How do you get tools in there to work on the rear exhaust? Is there a special tool to get an allen / hex key on the inboard exhaust port nut ? I am hoping that I can get this done soon as I like a quiet ride. Hopefully now that I have two Ventures, I'll be able to have more down time on bike3 to get this done. Thanks, Brian H.
  18. 6m459
    I'll guess 17. BJH
  19. 6m459
    Well since you ask, I have found that 5mm dia leds fit neatly in the gaps of the intake grill matrix under the headlight. By my count, I could get almost 40 leds in there. I have given up on the dash ventilation system, and am also blocking in the dash vents for extra dash real estate for switches, MP3 / gps holders etc. What was Yama thinking when they came up with that vent system anyways? My blue bike has 2 blue leds, 1 in each end of the grill, just cause it pleases me. For the red bike, I am planning to put as many white high intensity 5mm leds as possible into the intake grill and light them up as one unit. I don't know if it will improve my illumination, visibility, look cool or what but WTF ? All I need is some time to get down to it. Anyone got some spare time I could borrow ? Hope this is of interest. Brian H.
  20. 6m459
    I don't. I do however use a home fabricated 'special fork tool' to hold the internal fork components still for assembly and disassembly. Also, I use the blue loctite in the threads on reassembly. Hope this helps. Brian H.
  21. 6m459
    Well, I did some research into this last fall when I had one to repair. The OEM s/g part itself, which is some kind of soft plastic btw, is no longer available from Yamaha so far as I could determine. The best solution I came up with for an alternate source for a sight glass was a 17mm glass watch crystal. My plan was to glue it into place with an oil & gasoline proof silicone. (I checked with the manufacturer of the silicone to confirm it would also resist brake fluid) The problem was, that I couldn't find a local source or make an order for 17mm glass watch crystals make sense in quantities of half a dozen or so. To make it worth the shipping costs, I'd need a larger quantity order. Being a frugal yet determined sort, I found some microscope slide glass and fashioned a rudimentary glass lathe to turn a rough but functional glass disc, which I then siliconed into place. I wasn't terribly pleased with the aesthetics of my repair, but it did prove that my strategy works. It holds the fluid in the reservoir and you can see its level through the glass. As I say, it isn't pretty though. A proper glass disc would be much better looking. I was wondering if there are lots of failing m/c sight glasses out there that could somehow be matched up with a quantity order of 17mm watch crystals ? Any interest ? Brian H.
  22. 6m459
    How do you plan to proceed on this repair? Thanks, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont
  23. 6m459
    Hi, I'd suggest this plastic repair stuff: Plastex Its not cheap, although not outrageously expensive either, but it does amazing repairs once you get the technique figured out. Thanks to a bodge up of a P.O.'s radio installation, the LHS dash panel on my bike4 came to me in about 4 pieces, some of which had fallen down and had been given up as lost inside the rest of the faring. With the Plastex, I was able to piece it back together again and it is now serviceable and looks quite presentable, on the topside at least. Also, for out of sight repairs, I have had very good results with that Mighty Putty stuff, of annoying infomercial fame. It sounds silly, but it really does work well with the plastic on 1st gen Ventures. I was originally buying it as Permatex PermaPoxy Plastic & Fiberglass Sticks but that became unavailable. Turns out it is also marketed as Mighty Putty, or so I have proposed and concluded. I use it some times on its own and also in conjunction with the fibreglass dry wall tape that is 2" wide roll of fibreglass mesh of about 1/16" squares. I have, well had, a crack in the plastic piece that goes horizontally immediately above the riders right foot from below the knee vent, out to the piece that runs abeam across under the radiator. The crack was right in the turn from vertical to horizontal below the knee vent. The crack was 2/3 of the way across the piece so things were getting flappy and I had to do something. After cleaning the plastic surface with acetone, I used the M/P behind the scenes and out of sight smeared across the crack. I guess the thickness of the patch must be 1/16" to 3/32". Its still holding and all feels good and secure now many miles later. That was my test piece. Since then, I have also rebuilt several of the fairing tabs that the dash panels anchor to, on both of my Ventures. I embed a hex nut right into the M/P so I have metal threads in my repairs. Seems to work, but requires a bit of patience as I build up a tab, let it harden, then drill it and then add the nut behind the tab in another wad of the M/P. Well, hope this is of some interest. Hope you have fun too. Cheers, Brian H.
  24. 6m459
    Is this an RMstator you have in service? I briefly had one of those installed two years ago. It failed in the first month of service. It turns out that RMstator resells product from a US manufacturer called electrosport . Long story short, electrosport honoured the warranty on their stator and replaced it no questions asked. It took a month though. To get the bike going again meanwhile, I installed a used OEM stator, bought on Ebay, while the warranty claiim was in play. The used OEM one is still in there and the replacement RMstator unit is still in its box in my parts bin. I'd go OEM from the start if I had it all to do over again. I doubt I'll ever install that electrosport stator. I'd sell it on to someone else but my conscience won't let me. That's my view, hope its of some interest. Cheers, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont.
  25. 6m459
    Congrats! I am sure you will be happy with your new Venture. I just love my old gals bike3 and bike4. I can't wait to get them out on the road again this year ! I have some pix of one of my forays into the world of Venture fork seals posted here. By no means a detailed 'how to' but it might give you a sense of what you're in for. One, well OK a few, bits of other advice I'd pass along are as follows: I'd be sure to replace the fork bushings as well as the seals while you have the forks apart. The extra cost is negligible and at this age they will need it no matter what they look like. This extra step will prolong the life of your new fork seals. Also, the OEM fork springs have to go. If your bike has the OEM fork springs, spend the $100 on a pair of progressives it'll be money well spent. If your front end bottoms out at all on bumps, you'll know that you have the OEM forks. The OEM fuse box also needs to be scrapped and replaced if not already done. I'd do the swap regardless of any electrical problems at present, you'll be glad you did. I put a picture of my reworked fuse box here. I used a pair of Littlefuse part #03500417XP's ganged together. One of these setups has been in flawless service for about 5 years now and I did the second one as a matter of course when I bought the second bike. The OEM fuse box is CRAP. The swap isn't difficult if you approach it methodically. It'll give you peace of mind and buys you space for extra fuses to add more electrical stuff. Mine sits neatly on top of the battery and is just tall enough to touch the inside of the cover which helps to hold it in place. I'll be glad to advise on doing the swap if you'd like. Hope this is helpful. Welcome new Venture Rider! Brian H. Uxbridge Ont
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