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Showing results for tags 'slide'.
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Read this today on the Sickshooter Motorcycle web site. Popular motorcycle attraction, Dragon's Tail possibly closed for months Friday, 26 March 2010 | Written by Shaggy | Print | E-mail If you notice some motorcycle enthusiasts with a lost and worried look on their face, it may just be performance anxiety. The anxiety has nothing to do with any personal issues, but losing the opportunity to flex the motorcycle performance muscle as Mother Nature closes the king of all 'twisties', the legendary Dragon's Tail. 20Located primarily in Deals Gap, North Carolina the mountainside eleven mile stretch of road boasts a mind-blowing and constantly leaning 318 curves attracting bikers and drivers alike from all over the world. A rock slide has blocked the road with authorities expecting the route to remain closed until July 31st while crews cleanup. The rock slide, occurred on March 14th just as traffic by motorcyclists and thrill-seekers was about to pick up. The clean up process is expected to start on April 1st. The southbound lane was reopened briefly after the slide but was closed again because of safety concerns. The Dragon's Tail runs through both North Carolina and Tennessee, the rock slide has closed the road from near Chilhowee Lake to the North Carolina line. The Tennessee Department of Transportation will be responsible for awarding the contract to clean up Mother Nature's mess, but its the amount of time the job could take that has local businesses relying on tourism worried. "There's a possibility that we could lose the business," Jody Montgomery told Knox News discussing the Punkin Center Motorcycle Resort, located near the Dragon's Tail, "No one realized what impact it (the road closure) would have on this community until now." Authorities say the time is needed for contractors experienced in rock slide clearance and stabilization to transport the specialized equipment needed for such a job.
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I have a "million" slides that I want to put on the computer. Does anyone have any experience with slide scanners? I would like to get a sturdy one, capable of scanning a multitude of slides. Appreciate any help. By the way, when I went to Best Buy to inquire about one, the salesperson (young) did not even know what a slide is...had to explain.
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Do I have to remove the pumpkin and rear tire on a 1988 Venture to get the drive shaft out? I tried to find information in the maint book but no luck. It looks like you might be able to do it but do you have to slide the pumpkin back some way? I am still very new to this bike but am sure haveing a lot of fun with it. Hope I get to ride it soon! Ed -
I just got the trike a bit ago and now my wife will not ride with me! Coming from the rear comfort of a Goldwing se to the seat and backrest of a 2001 royal star touring was too much of a slide......... Are there any trunks/backrests that would improve on the situation? I do have an ad in the wanted section. Help!
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Just recently my 86 VR has taken ill. She was running real well and strong until just last week. All of a sudden she seems to be lacking in power throughout the rpm range. I have synced the carbs and they are right on. Suspecting that the boost sensor may have crapped out, I checked the vacuum at #2 and it is good and when reconnecting the vacuum hose to the boost sensor, the rpms pick up. That, as far as I know is a sign the sensor is working and advancing the timing. New plugs installed not too long ago and appear to burning well. New wires and caps as well. Just last night, I pulled the air box top and filter and started the motor. Number two slider (the carb/cylinder providing vacuum to the boost sensor) is not bouncing/moving at all. I will have to pull that carb cover to check out what may be going on or what isn't going on and hopefully I can resolve the problem; quickly. What would be the symptom of one slide not working? I checked out the diaphragms not too long ago and all checked out; no holes, old but no holes. Perhaps the vacuum port that directs vacuum to this slider has somehow gotten clogged or something. Nbr 2 is firing because the pipe gets hot immediately after starting cold. If I can't figure this out quickly, I will still be at the rally; however, I will be on my Ultra. Any ideas or advice about a faulty slide.... I am all ears.
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It is my understanding that there is a difference between the MKI and MKII on the difference in the diameter of the hole in the slides. I read in another post about using a dinajet kit and it said with the weaker springs, the slide hole needed to be opened up and frankly, that did not make sense to me. I would have thought that weaker springs would require a smaller slide hole as a larger allows more vacuum to pull the slides open quicker as would weaker springs. What would opening up the hole do on the slide actuation, especially with the washer change and extending the needle out .030 more on an 83 model? RandyA -
Just to add to the knowledge base here on the subject of carb diaphragms -- 1. I was able to get the original screws off the side carb cover. I sprayed each screw with PB Blaster. This was based on information that these screws get frozen at the juncture of the head and carb cover plate (and the threads inside the carb body are fine). I had to use a impact driver on all and I also used a T-25 Torx security bit to get the "special" screw off. All screws came off in one piece and were later reinstalled. 2. After removing each cover, each (and I mean all four of mine) carb slide was in pieces. If you look at the first picture, all the pieces shown were in this disassembled state when the cover came off. The center metal keeper was loose and the old diaphragm was off the slide, Somewhere mentioned that parts on the carb slide "come apart" (I believe it was Condor who said he had experienced this a few times). I know the previous owner of this one owner bike, and it never had carb work done since new. It must be the nature of the beast that these slides parts came apart. 3. For the first two carbs, I followed the recommended procedure to disassemble everything including the carb needle/holder assembly. I found that reinserting the plastic screw that holds the small spring and carb needle to be a slightly tricky task. Since I wasn't replacing the white spacer (as some have for "improved" fuel mileage), I omitted this step for Carb 3 and 4. This omission saves considerable time. (5-10 minutes each) 4. I cleaned all the parts with carb cleaner and installed the parts together. I used the SD-1 diaphragms from Sirus. In photo 2, you can see the white plastic washer on the keeper part. (You don't need a screw driver like in the photo, it just made taking the photo easier). 5. The next part installed was the diaphragm itself, there is no need to stretch it over the slide in this assembly scenario. The gray washer goes on next and the groove side goes against the diaphragm. See photo 3. 6. Slide the reassembled keeper part into the black plastic slide assembly. See photo 4. 7. Lastly, there have been many questions about the orientation slide to the tabbed portion of the diaphragm. If you look into the slide, there appears to be a vent hole or something at the bottom. In my four, one was at 1 o' clock (or pointing at the tab portion in the upper right corner), one was at 4 o'clock, one was at 6 o' clock, and the last was 9 o'clock. As you push the keepers into the slides in step #6 above, you can rotate the diaphragm to get it into the position you want. As far as I can tell, there is no standard position. Does anyone know the answer? So the conclusion is, if your slide/diaphragm unit is "split, this is the way to assemble it. This may end up being the preferred way to install new diaphragms. If the keeper can be removed from your slides -- it allows for a thorough cleaning of pieces and avoids the possibility of ripping the diaphragm when you slip them into place (and use the fingernail method like skydoc17 does). This is probably more critical for people who reuse and recoat old diaphragms where they could easily be damaged by stretching. There is no need to take the carb needle out if you are just replacing the diaphragms. Seriously! The SD-1 diaphragms fit well. We will see if they stand up to the test of time. Incidentially, my old diaphragms showed wear (and fabric) along the outer edges but I couldn't spot any pin hole leaks elsewhere. -
is anyone parting out a bike or know where I can get slide diaphragms for cheaper than $65.00 each? -
I'm rebuilding a set of forks for the 89 VR. The online parts fiches are pretty sketchy on the slide bushing that goes on the inner fork tube. The one that presses into the outer tube is known as 3JJ-23125-00-00 METAL, SLIDE 1. Anyone have the part number for the other one? Thanks! -
I had a frikin mouse chew a hole in my air filter without realizing it. Ran the bike about 1000 miles or so before I got to seeing it and my carbs paid the price with lots of dirt in them. Funny thing is the bike ran great the whole time, no issues. My problem is now, after I had to disassemble all the carbs and clean them out, blew them out and double checked my work. Everything seems to work ok and no leaks, or damage except for 2 of the diaphrams that fell apart (inner sleeve thing) which I just reglued. The bike starts, chokes good, and idles fine, but will immediately bog down and bacfire through the carbs when I give it quick gas. A slower throttle gets the rms up, but still gives me blowback through the carbs. BTW, valves are set good also. I tried resetting the adjust screws back down to 2 turns and it got worse. When I originally took things apart, most screws were at 3.5 to 4 turns already, is that too much already? Does anybody know if I should mess with the slide needle at all? I do have a colortune coming so I can try a better A/F mix setting, but wonder what the factory setting is for the slide needle. Sorry for the long winded post, just trying to think of anything. -
:bang head:Please read my thread a few down from here if you haven't. I received a lot of great advice on the whole issue. I followed the directions on one of the links I received and this is where I'm at... This on new 07 RSTD. Started by taking plasma cutter and cut around the baffle that is connected to the cone. Cone then was loose, and came out without too much work. Then cut through the baffle plate that the baffle is also attached to. So now from the links I received here, one writer said all you have to do is wiggle, twist, and pull, and the baffle should slide out... I don't know if my pipes are slightly different because it is an 07 RSTD vs. other years, or vs. the Ventures(?) but the tack weld that should twist apart on my baffle about 6-8 inches further in is about 1/2 an inch long. We first tried to wiggle, twist, and pull.... didn't move whatsoever. Next welded metal attachment to the baffle we were trying to remove, connected big slide hammer to attachment, pounded away, and MAYBE moved it out an 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Problem with this method is that the muffler is off the bike and I had to hold it while my friend did the slide hammer. I couldn't hold it well enough. Then we detached slide hammer assembly from baffle and welded 1 inch diameter rod directly in baffle we wanted out. I then reattached muffler to bike thinking that this would hold pipe in place. On end of the metal rod that was now sticking 6 inches out of baffle, I put big pipe wrench on to do twisting motion and whole muffler moved instead of 1/2 inch tack welded baffle. Then realized muffler mounting tab had rubber grommets in it. Removed those and temporarily rebolted thinking it would be rigid. Tried to twist w/ pipe wrench again and will bend brackets and baffle stays stationary. I am so frustrated I'm ready to scream. If anybody has suggestions, they would all be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU, Blake - royal rider:bang head: -
A while back I had asked about a fuel problem I was having. I had changed the plugs, wires, and caps. I ran Seafoam through a few tanks. But I was still only getting about 33-34 mpg. Someone here had mentioned that I might have a float problem and told me how to check for the fuel vapor rising out of the carbs after I shut it off. I didn't see any vapor but I did notice that one slide was not moving at all. I pushed it open with my finger and it wouldn't close. So I pulled the diaphram and slide out so I could clean the carb where the slide moves. there was some build up of something along one side of it and it came clean fairly easy. The slide moves freely now. Now I wonder if I'll get my milage back.
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Well, I'm finally back from Iraq and took the bike out today. Ran fine except for a little overheating... The coolant reservoir showed fine, but when I opened the radiator it was very low. Added some coolant and the bike ran cool. I think there may be a small leak as I noticed a few drops of coolant on my right toe. While returning home, I had a fall off of power, kind of a bogging down when I got off the freeway. had to run it in 2nd to get home and keep the rpms around 4k. When I got home I noticed some fuel leaking in front of the rear wheel. I had that problem when I first got the bike, but can't recall how I fixed it. I also noticed the right rear spark plug wire had come loose and reinstalled it. After restarting the bike, It would try to stall unless I very slowly applied throttle... too fast, it bogged down and died. I pulled off the air cleaner and noticed that the two carb slides on the left side of the bike were stuck open. and I mean stuck. pushing the slide on #1 wouldn't open it at all. #2 would push open but not close back. Noticed some "backfiring" from the right side carbs also I've been searching the forums for about 2 hours now, and I think I'm at the point where I'm imagining everything I read could be the problem. I definitely need to check the diaphragms, and I need to search a bit more about how to drain and clean the bowls. I need to check the tank for rust and water. I'm not really wanting to do a full carb rebuild/cleaning, but worst case I'll mentally prepare for it. Does anyone here have any other Ideas or Input? perhaps a pointer to some good writeups? I do have the service manual and have found a good how-to for the diaphrams so far. Thanks, Mark -
Hello........... I have had my new ride for about 3 days now, posted a question about bogging down and with the help a few of you was able to determine the diaphrams have some holes in them. I have them out. How does a person take the diaphram portion off of the slide? Where the diaphram hooks onto the slide there is what looks like a plastic washer on top and underneath. Does it unscrew? I can get it to twist a little but do not see it coming off very easily. Anybody have an idea how this is done? Thanks Bnkrbill -
Had a great ride Sunday, discovered a new road,and had wonderful weather. Pics are here http://picasaweb.google.com/cmlong55/HogJowlRide If you click on slide show it will scroll thru faster and pics are full screen. Craig
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Ok, I took the airhoses loose and now I can't figure how to get the air hose connections off to slide the forks out. I need help!!!!!! Thanks, Kevin -
well i come to you with a very heavy heart this morning. Last night at around 6:00pm i was traveling west bound on hwy 11 towards Delavan Wi. As i rounded a blind corner at approximatly 50 mph not 50 ft. in front of me there was a disabled vehicle with many spectators in the middle of the road. No time to react and ice covered road shoulders, about the only thing i could do was try to execute a controled slide to not hit anyone or anything. As i hit the hard cold ground it seems only to apparent that this is not going to end well. As i slide across the pavement for what seems like an eternity my only thoughts are of my poor beloved first gen that i had spent every spare moment perfecting. The bike and i finally come to a stop and now everyones focus turns to me, worried only about my bike i tell everyone i am ok. As i go to pick up the bike i realize maybe i am not doing so well as my shoulder lets out a loud pop, still not willing to let the bike lay in it's current state i ask for help getting it on the stand. By now the pain is really starting to set in, i call a friend who brought a flat bed for the bike. for me it was a nice ambulance ride to Mercy hospital. I got out of the hospital this morning around 6:00. As you can see by my writing this my thoughts are still of my bike. Oh ya by the way i have a broken collar bone and a dis-located hip, amazing what addrenaline will do for ya. As far as the bike goes upon meager inspection, the right side fairing is gone,windshield,rivco air horns,lower fairing,mirror,cb,,class,brake lever,trunk lid only,right saddle bag complete, i'm sure there will be more. I will get my son to get some pics up for you asap. The worse part about this is it is so hard to get good quality parts for these bikes now, i will heal but my bike? Also it was running great finally and was so beautiful. Thanks for listening. kurt827.
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I have an 83 Venture.Should I be able to slide the rear wheel under full braking? I know it only has single piston calepers.I can put as mush pressure as I can on the petal and it stops pretty fast,but it wont slide. -
Guys, Dynojet kits generally consist of a needle, main jet, and spring for each carb, as well as a drill bit to enlarge the slide lift holes. What is the effect of enlarging those holes? What if I put in the parts but don't drill the slides? It seems to me that enlarging the holes will increase the RATE of slide lift, but not the overall lift. Will that have more effect on airflow or fuel flow? Could NOT drilling it cause a lean stumble on quick throttle opening? Your opinions please! Thanks, Jeremy
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I've been chasing poor mileage on my 87 for the year I've owned it. GeorgeS has written more than once that holes in the slide diaphragms will cause poor mileage and are common at this age. I finally pulled one this morning and guess what - it's bad! (Almost looked as if they had never been removed before.) Several obvious cracks, light shines right through them. The slide itself, needle, and jet looked OK. They are SOOOO easy to pull on this bike that there was really no excuse to wait so long. What's weird is that the bike runs fine - no stumbles or hesitations, revs right up to redline, plugs are the appropriate color. Is this common, that they don't affect driveability, but hit the gas mileage? It seems like this problem would cause a lean condition, which isn't good for the engine but in some cases can actually HELP mileage... QUESTION: Are the coasting enrichener diaphragms also commonly disintegrated? One guy had that problem here recently - anyone else? What kind of problems will that cause? They are harder to get to...ughhh. COMMENT: Some have written, indeed I have done so myself, something like, "I watched the slides with air filter removed and engine running, and they all seem to be doing the same dance, so they are probably OK." I can tell you, this is NOT a valid test! In fact, just this morning, I repeated this "test" with a now-known bad diaphragm, and they still appear to dance the same. Maybe they are all cracked exactly the same. Jeremy -
So how much weight is safe to pull behind an 84 VR? I've seen these Aspen popup campers that are being pulled by mototcycles. I have an old Nimrod Capri that's 12" wider and a couple inches shorter. I was wondering how much of a difference there would be. I don't know how heavy it is but I can slide it side to side by myself when it's hooked to my car. I would thing it would catch alot of sidewinds and cause alot of drag. How heavy is a typical trailer anyway?
