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Showing results for tags 'fuse'.
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I got stalled last week on the hyway : my ignition fuse blowed. My side stand relay does not work : I can start my stand down on first gear. I do not know where is my short circuit but when motor is warm and I am at fourth gear, motor start to misfire and if I dont slow down, it blow my ignition fuse. Any idea ? Happen to anyone ? Thank you ?
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So you don't have to read all my problems my thoughts on the bazooka amp and speakers and the 6" amplified sub. The speakers by themselves don't sound good at all without the amp and with the amp they need the sub to have some bass. And the system will run down your battery ,need to put on trickle charge if you aren't going to ride except on the weekends, (How do I know? I was going to ride a few min ago and my 3 week old 130.00 gel battery wouldn't crank my bike. so here I am typing while it charges instead of riding) It was fine the first 2 weeks since I rode the bike every few days but last week I didn't crank it Let me first say bazooka's customer service is very good, that being said here is the problems I had , for starters I was going to knock this out in 1 or 2 days and ride that weekend but,got everything took apart run the wiring harness ( dind't get the fuse size called the tech. told me it was a 7.5 amp fuse) installed the amp,and speakers (one of which the surround was glued out of round) per instructions started to hook up the speakers and the terminals on the wiring harness were wrong (for a goldwing) so I changed them to the correct size blade to hook into the factory connectors then turned on the switch only to hear my new speakers sound like they were under water, and not loud as factory , anyway found out one speaker wasn't working traced down that where bazooka spliced the extension on one of the wires was not making a connection thought good now lets hear the music . Then come to find out my amp was bad blowed the 7.5 amp fuse each time I put the fuse in, called bazooka and told them my problems with the amp, speaker,and wiring tried the tech's fixes and they didn't work so emailed them they said the would fed ex'd me new ones. In the meantime I thought I would just hook up the bazooka speakers to the factory system , the factory speakers were louder and sounded better, so after a week of waiting redone everything (and this time got a 30 amp fuse) sounded ok but still a little distorted so I put the bass tube in the trunk and connected it to the amp and it had no bass so back to the email machine was told by the tech that had a reverse polarity on a speaker come to figure out they reversed a wire making the splices ,well fixed that, got bass, closed the trunk and couldn't hear it drilled a hole in the bottom above the cb to let air in and out made it a little better but still not good so butchered up the trunk somemore now it sounds ok setting still and is a little better riding and it still distorts @ full volume still tinkering with that
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I have been searching all morning for what to use to replace my fuse panel with something that is far better and more modern. what have the rest of you used? what fit's in the same spot? I really want blade fuses, and would like to expand it from the all used up 6 circuit to an 8 circuit to allow me to separately fuse accessories. Also has anyone upgraded the switched with a relay and a secondary fuse panel? -
Somewhere, someone posted a method to wire an aux fuse block into the exisiting charging circuit INSTEAD OF directly to the battery so that those aux items connected wouldn't cause a big drain on the battery and also so that if an ammeter was installed, it would show the correct info.... I think it was V7Goose who posted this info but I can't seem to find it.... anyone have the link handy?
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Just a little FYI here. This information came up in a truck fire that we are working on. Since a few folks here shop at Harbor Freight occassionly, Thought I would pass it on for those who are/were not aware of this recall. September 5, 2007 California auto parts seller Harbor Freight Tools will recall as many as 295,000 sets of automobile fuses manufactured in China because they could malfunction and cause electrical fires. Harbor Freight reported plans for the recall of Chinese made fuses to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration August 10. Harbor Freight told the federal safety agency that it is aware of property damage caused by the fuses but does not know of any injuries. The decision to recall the fuses is a result of four customer complaints "in a very short period of time" according to the company as well as concerns raised with Harbor Freight by General Motors Corp. Last month, GM sent an internal bulletin to dealersdiscouraging them from using the Harbor Freight fuses and reminding dealers that the fuses are not GM parts. NHTSA has also received two complaints from consumers about the Harbor Freight fuses. Harbor Freight Tools had sought to limit public disclosure of the fuse recall by marking its four page letter to NHTSA as a confidential communication. The auto parts company asked the safety regulators to limit disclosure of the defect report from disclosure under the Freedom of Information Act. If successful, this tactic would have prevented consumers from knowing they had potentially hazardous fuses in their cars The fuses are supposed to be 5-30 amps but may have been made with the wrong amperages and that can lead to damage to a vehicle's electrical system. Harbor Freight has now stopped selling the fuses. Between August 2005 and August 2007, Harbor Freight sold 295,000 fuse sets containing 120 fuses which means as many as 35 million fuses could be involved. The fuse sets sold for between $3 and $10. The company plans to notify anyone who purchased the fuses from the company's Web site, as well as mail-order customers, and will post recall notices in retail . It will give customers a $5 gift certificate for returning the items, in addition to a refund.
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Got a funny one. Installed a brand new set of horns, Bad Boys to exact, put them in the faring, right side, right behind the grill and tied them in with cable ties, So far so Good. Wired them according to specks. Used the original horn wire for the primary side of the relay, ran a new line from the accessory post to the secondary side of the relay, then to the horn and then to ground. I did that right EH? Well so I thought as well. Tested it and boy does that give off some sound, real nice, all done, on to the next project. In the process I needed to fire up the engine. Turned on the ignition, pushed the kill switch to run, pulled in the clutch lever and pushed the start button, and low and behold there wasn't a soul in front of the scoot anymore (not that there were any to start with), the sound coming from the horns was totally unexpected and a way too loud for a confinded space, but the scoot was running, so glory be. had to shut all that racket off so I turned the ignition off and all was quiet, good so far, at least that worked, but now to try that again, let's see,,,carefully turn on the ignition, yep ok there,,,hit the start button and WWoww, them there horns done wake a person right up from down under,,,,turn the ignition off again and am now perplexed,,,,well ,,,,,took out the fuse and through the test all was quiet,, what a blessing, I was having thoughts of needing a new radio just to be able to hear my tunes over all the constant noise,,,and somebody said to put two off those thingies on my machine???????are they nuts,,,,,,,not on mine if they're going to be going off constantly. Went to the laundry to wash off last years leftovers and when I got back I thought I had enough guts to try that fuse once more. Sure enough, put the fuse in, carefully turned on the ignition,,,you never know eH,,,,,,,and then hit the start button,,,,now it got me totally confused,,,,everything worked perfect,,,,,now how am I going to find out what went haywire. Three days later,,, it's still good,,,,,,,but if you hear someone coming down the street with his horn going full blast,,, get the coffee ready,, it'll be me and I'll be looking for some help
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After watching the install of the Stebel Compact Air Horn on JBurrell's bike this past weekend at the SE TX Maintenance Day, I decided to take the plunge and do it. I have been looking for an auxiliary fuse block to put under the seat, and that took me to Harbor Freight last night. No fuse box, but I did pick up a box of connectors and shrink wrap marked at $4.99 each. At the checkout, the total rang up to $15+. Turns out that they had marked a sale last night that begins today (3/27)! W00t! So head to Harbor Freight and pick up some goodies for those electrical projects you are planning. The shrink wrap assortment is particularly cool. Yes, I did install the airhorn. LOUD! I took my time, did it right, and there is plenty of amperage available. BTW, I used the CARBON_ONE bracket, and it worked great. No, I haven't found a fuse box at HF, Auto Zone, or Academy (where Ponch suggested). Suggestions for that are appreciated.
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fuse box for head light??
bcarden posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I have an 85 vr that the fuse box sits on the battery and the fuse for the headlight have a broken clamp for the fuse does any one have a fuse box for sell or know where to get a replacement ?? thanks for the assist. -
Need your help. I installed an auxilliary fuse block, recently. the hot wire has a 30 amp fuse between the battery and fuse block, and is activated by a relay. ok, here's the question...if i wire the passing lights to the aux fuse block will the passing lamps still require its own relay?
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Thank you for allowing me to join your organization. I have been following it for almost a year now and thought I should join. There obviously are many very well informed and generous members in this organization and I am glad to be a part of it. My Venture is the best bike I have ever owned and I have been riding since the late 1950's. I have a couple of minor issues on my bike that I want to "throw out there". One is this. Approximately every other time I start my bike (2004 Venture Midnight Editiion) the digital clock is messed up and needs to be reset. Does anyone else have this problem? Also, the headlight fuse blows every month or so. I have the factory lightbar but the last time it blew the lightbar was off. It is a 15 amp fuse and I am reluctant to install a 20 amp for obvious reasons. One time it would not start until that fuse was replaced but the other times it would start without replacing the fuse. I drive legally so do not ride without the headlight. Any ideas anyone?" -
I came to work to night and when I got here the tail lights were not working, I checked the bulbs (OK), looked in the online manual and haven't found any help there. Will look for the fuse to see if it is a lone fuse. Brake lites work. Any ideas? On the starter, it starts great sometimes, then about every 2 or 3 times it will pull the amps down to about 5, then hesitate, then crank like a new one. Cleaned the batt cables, and tested it (OK). This happens cold or hot?!?!?!?!?!? Any ideas? Thankx, Gary C -
Where can I find a fuse
algie1100 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I managed to blow the main 40 amp flat fuse. And then blew the 2 spares that I had figuring out why it blew in the first place. I have searched high and low and cannot find any replacements. I went to 3 different bike dealers and 2 auto parts store and radio shack. Nothing. Where the heck do you find these things? Thanks, Al -
It's been a while since I've been stumped, but I am right now. I am working on Dave Pankows '86 and for some reason I dont have the headlight working now and it worked when he pulled into the driveway. I have replaced the fuse block with one of the upgrades to push type spades. I have done half a dozen of better of these with no issues. Everything appears to be working normally on the fuse block as I have tested to make sure of power from one side through the fuse to the other lead side. The bike starts and runs all the lights work, signals, emergency flashers, running lights, but no headlight. It's a new bulb as I checked it and the filaments are good, I just have no power to the switch. Now mind you that I am not good with chasing wires from a diagram. I have a repair manual but it might as well be in swahelie as far as understanding wire diagrams. I'm not sure if I have to have all the electronics hooked back up for the headlight to work. I dont think so, but I've been wrong before If some of you electrical types could help this dumb welder out I would appreciate it BTW: I am looking for the headlight assy for this '86 also as Mr. Butterfingers dropped it and broke the front glass out
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OK I bypassed the sensor with the 2.2 ohm resistor. Instead of hooking to the acc. wire, I hooked a conector to the wire and mounted it under the screw that went to the fuse that I was supposed to solder to. Is this OK? Kevin -
I got my first look of my new 90 Venture today. The CLASS seems like it’s not getting any power. Anyone know what fuse it runs off of and where that fuse is? I had the idea of running power directly from the battery to see if that fixes the problem. Would that cause any issues? Should I wire a fuse in between? I tried riding the bike, but it bottoms out on small dips in the road so I don’t think I can ride it home unless I can figure out something with the suspension. Thanks, Al
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Where is the fuse located at for the 12volt accessary plug on the left inside fairing?Also what amp is the fuse?
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I just had the dealership install OEM passing lamps on my '06 RSTD. I got home and wanted to show some friends and none of the head lamps were on. An investigation found the headlamp fuse blown. There was a spare 15 amp fuse, and I put that on. The main headlamp came on, and I discovered the passing lamps were toggled off. When I toggled them on, the fuse blew immediately. My question: should the combination of headlamp and passing lamps work with a 15A fuse? I have the halogen version ( STR-4NK35-10-01 ) of the passing lamps and the OEM headlight. Of course, the dealership didn't return any of the installation or operation information that came with the lamps so I don't know the current draw. They were working at the dealership but were dead when I got home. Maybe something broke loose and is grounding? -
I've read the many threads here about direct wiring, and have decided that I would "prefer" to install a fuse panel somewhere under the seat (??). I'm not too keen on connecting accessories directly to the battery. A couple of questions: 1) What types (manufacturer) are you folks installing and are you happy? 2) Where have you installed the fuse panel? 3) Are there panels made specifically for the RSV? Any help/guidance would be greatly appreciated!
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The 12 volt power socket on my fairing has no juice. I can't see any blown fuses on the fuse panel. Is there another inline fuse for that socket???
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Hi all, Does anyone have a fuse holder for the accessory fuse, my one's snapped, it the small white red wire that screws into the fuse box. I've looked for new holders, crimping type but can't find any. -
I am attempting to upgrade the glass fuse box to a plastic Buss type. I read a thread awhile back where one of the members did this, but of course I cannot now find it. Here is my issue. The original glass fuse block isolates the incoming power for each circuit, ie, headlight, turn, brake, ignition etc.. The replacement block has one incoming terminal for all outputs. There is no way to isolate the incoming power for each circuit. I determined that with the exception of the accessory circuit, the remaining circuits are all hot once the ignition is switched to the on position. The accessory circuit is hot (not surprisingly) once the key is turned to ACC. I could isolate the Accessory circuit with those individual rubber blade type fuse sockets and run the remaining circuits through the new block. My thought was to simply strip the wires, wind them together solder them to a heavier gauge wire and terminate at the hot terminal on the new block. I am hesitant to this because somewhere along the line I thought I read that there was a reason each of the circuits has its own individual hot feed in the original glass fuse box, in particular the lighting circuit. I don’t want to fry anything and somehow I think my plan is to easy. Any ideas out there? -
I am brand new, and thanks to Lonestarmedic I have found a great group to talk about my project. I purchased a 87 VR in fair condition, (runs good, looks bad) but the prior owner tried to rewire the lighting and now nothing works, I have the tech manual on disk and all the wiring diagrams. The problem is that he cut and tried to splice everything instead of following where they went. Am I going to have to remove all tape from everything and trace from each light to the fuse box, or is it easier to buy a new wiring harness? I am not as worried about asthetics as I want to get it legal so that my Duramax can get a rest on good sunny days. Thanks in advance
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I blew a couple of fuses which go to the radiator fan over the course of three weeks or so. I came up with some time to investigate the reason for blowing these fuses, and I also had a new package of assorted fuses. A fuse is a fuse right? I found them while visiting one of those cheap Chinese tool establishments. A whole package of 20 fuses for just a couple of bucks! Anyway, I plugged a fresh new 10 amp in, turned on the key and proceeded into my shop to retrieve my meter to do a little resistance checking. As I turned and walked toward my sweet '86 now parked in the driveway, I saw a mushroom shaped plume of smoke rising from my bike. I screamed to my bike, turned off the ignition and looked to see if I needed to grab a water hose. The smoke cleared and it was evident whatever was burning had stopped. First thing I checked was the fresh new fuse I had just installed. The freakin' plastic surrounding the element was melted away but the metal element was as good as new. Heck, I could've looped a piece of clothes hanger and got that result! Anyway, after tearing apart the wiring harness, replacing all the fried wiring which was now just strands of charred copper and melted insulation, I went to NAPA and bought good fuses. It's been three weeks with no new burned fuses and the fan works great. Lesson learned. Maybe this post will save you from the same experience.
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I need some advise. I have researched the entire site and cannot locate anyone that has or had the same problem I am trying to assist a friend with. My bud own a great looking 83 Venture that all of sudden went dead and I mean dead electrically. He thought he had a dead battery but when I checked it out, the battery was fine but discovered the main 40 amp fuse had blown. Wired in an aftermarket 40 amp inline fuse but as soon as the fuse is snapped it, it blows. What on earth could be wrong. Thought maybe it was the problem was a shorted starter so disconnected the starter and as soon as another fuse in installed it blows again. All the accessories are now disconnected and still the fuse blows. What would be the most common problem to look at in this situation. I am not the electrically inclined but have basic knowledge of electrical systems. Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated. Back to the hot garage but will look later for any advise from the members.
