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RidingArk

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Personal Information

  • Name
    R.C.

location

  • Location
    Little Rock, United States

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  • City
    Little Rock

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Bike Year and Model
    1986 VR
  1. RidingArk
    I blew a couple of fuses which go to the radiator fan over the course of three weeks or so. I came up with some time to investigate the reason for blowing these fuses, and I also had a new package of assorted fuses. A fuse is a fuse right? I found them while visiting one of those cheap Chinese tool establishments. A whole package of 20 fuses for just a couple of bucks! Anyway, I plugged a fresh new 10 amp in, turned on the key and proceeded into my shop to retrieve my meter to do a little resistance checking. As I turned and walked toward my sweet '86 now parked in the driveway, I saw a mushroom shaped plume of smoke rising from my bike. I screamed to my bike, turned off the ignition and looked to see if I needed to grab a water hose. The smoke cleared and it was evident whatever was burning had stopped. First thing I checked was the fresh new fuse I had just installed. The freakin' plastic surrounding the element was melted away but the metal element was as good as new. Heck, I could've looped a piece of clothes hanger and got that result! Anyway, after tearing apart the wiring harness, replacing all the fried wiring which was now just strands of charred copper and melted insulation, I went to NAPA and bought good fuses. It's been three weeks with no new burned fuses and the fan works great. Lesson learned. Maybe this post will save you from the same experience.
  2. RidingArk
    Thank you very much.
  3. RidingArk
    Thanks again Squeeze. Wouldn't have begun to tackle this without the help available on this site. I have one more question and I'll quit hogging up the advise. I'm good on installing the clutch disks, but I'm not sure where the two metal circular things go. I think the immediately follow the friction plate and disk which are held in place with the wire? I can't remember if the flat one goes in first followed by the concave one. And, I can't remember which direction the concave one goes in. The manual was no help to me. Any more advise left for me?
  4. RidingArk
    Well Jeremy, after seeing the new friction plates, I guess they weren't worn as thin as I thought. Amazing with all those miles and being the original clutch. All I have left to do is torque the boss nut and install. WHY can't I just put it in gear and torque the nut? 50 pounds doesn't seem alot to me.
  5. RidingArk
    Well, I didn't have any problem at all getting the clutch boss and housing off. Actually, especially after reading posts, it kinda scare me how easy it came off. I used a 30mm socket and air impact. After inspecting the clutch basket (thanks guys for telling me what the hell to call this thing), I noticed what are definately brass bushings, 2 of them, one fore and one aft inside the clutch basket shaft hole. Didn't look extremely worn to me, but has to be the only thing to let the basket "wobble" a little. To answer above questions, I started to get a slight slip on the clutch and did have some very very slight knocking noise that seemed to be reduced when I activated the clutch. I know the history of this bike. It has 84K and towed a trailer extensively. The cluth is original. It's amazing that the friction disks aren't worn to metal. They all appear uniform in wear but the friction pads look pretty thin. In hindsight though, and I'll readily admit I'm a newbie here, I think the slip was from overfilling the clutch resevoir. I rebuilt the slave and clutch master and replaced the hoses prior to the slip being developed. I topped the fluid off to where there was no room left. Should have read the posts better. So, do you guys think I just ought to roll with the basket as is, or replace the bushings?
  6. RidingArk
    Thanks very much for your input. Squeeze, I think it has more play than what you suggested would be OK. I'm going to go ahead and pull the boss and basket tonight. I would assume that the basket rides on a bearing, so I guess I better check it out. I really, really wanted to just replace the friction plates and move on, but.......
  7. RidingArk
    After reading some more posts on the site, I see that what I am calling the clutch boss has been called a clutch basket by others. I'm confused concerning the correct terminology for what I'm talking about, so I'll try to ask my question again. Should the "clutch basket" have some play in it? I really appreciate any info. I can get.
  8. RidingArk
    I can move the clutch boss, although very slightly, away from and towards the clutch boss nut. The circlip doesent move, other than rotational of course, but the clutch boss can be made to "wobble" is the best way I can describe it. Thanks very much for your replies.
  9. RidingArk
    After studying the posts on this site, I decided I would install a Bartlett clutch in my '86 Venture. Everything came out just fine, but, I think there may be a problem. Is the clutch boss supposed to have any play in it? I can get a slight wobble out of it. I hadn't planned on taking it off, but will for sure if this "play" is abnormal. I would very much appreciate some advice here.
  10. RidingArk
    Thanks for the advise. I'll try the easier fix first and replace the fork oil. My bike has 86K on it. Previous owner kept pretty good maintenance records which mention changing fork oil through the years but no mention of springs. If I replace with the progressive springs, will front fork air pressure even be an issue? If that's the case, I'll most definately replace. As I see it, the CLASS system is just something else to break at the most inopertune time.
  11. RidingArk
    I've never been into the forks, but I assume that I don't have Progressive Suspension Springs cause I can most definately tell the pressure is gone when I ride the bike. Wife and I went on a little 150 mile run a few days ago and got beat to death from the front end.
  12. RidingArk
    I didn't have any problems with my CLASS system until after I trailered the beast this past weekend. Now, it will not hold front fork pressure for more than 30 minutes or so. I did the soap bubble check thing from the forks to the compressor. While I was back there, I went ahead and serviced the air dryer. (Thanks to what I learned on this site, I rejuvinated it by giving the pellets a little bake time) Anyway, is it probable that ratcheting down the front forks while trailering blew a seal somewhere? Sure is coincidental if nothing else. And why can't I find a leak? Any suggestions will be most helpful and appreciated. RC
  13. RidingArk
    Working on my 17th year.
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