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Showing results for tags 'drive'.
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Will a 97 v-max final drive fit an 03 midnight venture and if so is it worth the swap? Thank you. Wayne
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My desk top fried the power supply. New one installed and it booted ok. 1 week of security uploads (automatic) and on restart windows loads (win 2000 pro) then freezes when IE starts. On restart (hard reboot) Error message... cannot find winnt\system32\drivers\isapnp.sys . When I try to recover with the win2000 cd it wants a boot disk A: I cant find it ( how long since you used a floppy disk). I have a external HD Western digital hard drive for a back up . I got a command prompt and got to the drive but can not open the recovery file. A long time since DOS and was not too good then. Can any one help me out. I have some work stuff that is not backed up and don't want to loose those files. I am useing my OLD laptop but it will die soon. Thanks for any help. Rod
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Took a drive in car with wife to Wa. Coast the other day. While driveing down the beach, we spotted this currious new species of tree growing on the beach. ?? ( yes you can drive on the beach in Wa. State )
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Hi all. I am new here so if this is in the wrong area sorry. My wife and I are looking for a nice long distance tourer and the Venture is out front in our search. After reading some of the info on this site I have a few questions. If this is all posted somewhere please excuse me for asking. 1- How many have the loud wine from the drive line? 2- How often is the drive line maintenance done? (grease the pins and remove the rear wheel and what ever else) 3- Are there any other issues with this bike that need to be addressed as soon as the bike is picked up from the dealer? 4- How are the bikes for general overall maintenance? I ask these because my last bikes had there share of problems from the dealer. I do most of my own maintenance and enjoy it but I really am looking for a low maintenance machine we can just enjoy. I should add that we are looking at either a new 09 or a new 08 Venture. Thanks for any info and thoughts.
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I have been thinking about changing the final drive on my 87'VR since I have owned it. The first VR I had an 86' had the VMAX rear in it and I loved that bike. The thing I didn't like about my 87'VR is the gearing seemed "tall", when I was in the "sweet spot" of the engine I was flying down the highway at 85 plus! I began my search for a new final drive in November of 2008. Here is where I give cudo's to Squeeze, that young man has forgotten more about Ventures, VMAXs and FJR1300s then I will EVER know. I looked at about a dozen low mileage VMAX final drives and I just didn't like the Idea of the shock mount stud sticking out the side of the pumpkin. Thats when Squeeze told me about the FJR1300 final drive. He said "the FJR final drive has the same gearing as the VMAX and it is a mono-shock rear just like my 87'VR, the best of both worlds! Well, needless to say there aren't to many people parting out their late model FJR1300's and when they do, they want a pretty penny for the final drive. Being laid off has given me a lot of time to work on my bike but very little extra money. I have been selling off some items on Ebay and putting together the many "Kits" you have seen in the Classifieds. Well, last week the scrimping and saving finally paid off, I found a FJR1300 final drive in pristine condition, with only 3500 miles on it. I wish I could say that the rest of the bike was in as great of condition as the final drive but it looked like the owner of this beautiful machine drove into a brick wall at 100MPH! Anyway, I got the final drive and have attached pics below of the disassembly and reassembly of the entire of my 87'VR. I used the Honda Moly 60 Paste on all of the splines and the Belray 80/90 for the gear oil. Smooth, quiet, and this final drive took my old 87'VR to a whole new level of performance. Take a moment and have a look at the pics, if you have any questions, I will be more than happy to answer them. And once more, THANKS AGAIN SQEEZE, You Da' MAN! Earl -
First off, let me say that I cannot take credit for this trick to make reinstalling your driveshaft a short and simple process. That credit belongs to Pegscraper, otherwise known as Lynn Nicholls. Turn back a few pages.....some time back, Lynn had replaced his rear drive with a modified VMAX rear drive unit. He had a skilled machinist modify the housing to accept the speedo sensor (that is the only external difference between the Venture/Royal Star housing and the VMAX housing). He has now decided that he is going to replace his RS tranny with the tranny out of a 1st Gen and therefore needs to go back to a RS/RSV rear drive.....you'll have to get the details from Lynn if you are curious. Anyway, he asked if I'd be interested in swapping my RSV drive unit for his VX unit. HECK YES!!!! So, last night was the chosen time to make the swap. In talking earlier about doing this, Lynn had made the comment that putting the drive shaft back in was not a difficult task, not nearly as bad as I've read here on the boards. So I decided to carefully observe and see what his trick was to an easy reinstall. Sure enough....it only took him about 2 minutes max to get the drive shaft back into the yoke. Want to know how he does it???? Just send me $9.95 by paypal and I'll let you in on the secret!!!! Just Kidding.....don't shoot me. Here it is...and it's so easy. Lynn puts the driveshaft back in without reinstalling into the rear drive unit first. Doing it that way makes it easy to "feel" the yoke, lift it into alignment, and slide the shaft into place. At first I was concerned about whether this would possibly create a problem on the drive housing end of things, but with the spring in the housing pushing toward the yoke, it is pretty obvious that the shaft ends up all the way into the yoke anyway. Well, when reinstalling mine I did the same. I'm not as good at it as Lynn is....took me all of 10 minutes to get mine realigned. But I finally figured out the trick and it isn't bad at all. So, first of all....THANK YOU to Pegscraper for swapping with me. The RSV is a totally different beast with that rear drive in it. About pulled my arms out of their sockets when I hammered it hard on the test drive! And secondly, thanks for the assembly trick, Lynn!!! Joe -
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today being stupid I was hammering my 1st gen shifting to 2nd ( missed shift) and lot of grinding started bottom left of engine. right where driveshaft goes to out put shaft, no matter what gear. limped home last 5 miles. the more throttle the more grind. grinds when under even slite pressure. put it on center stand all gears grind. what did i do? going to start pulling wheel off and pull drive shaft what am i looking for. big time sick at my stomach -
I'm finally getting around to installing the new to me final drive pumpkin I snagged from Lonestarmedic and thought it would be wise to lube the shaft before sticking it in. Question is: How do you disconnect the shaft from the pumpkin end to lube it? -
Have the back wheel off my 05 RSTD. Want to lube the drive shaft ends. Is there an access plug/hole at the u-joint to help get the drive shaft back in place? Do I have to retract the rubber boot? Would like to know before getting a lifetime sentence trying to put it back together. Thanks, Jack -
I recently purchased a First Gen. Parts Bike and was told by the owner he "thought" the final drive on this bike was from a VMAX. Does anyone know of a way I can tell if this is indeed a VMAX final drive? I have attached two pics below and the red arrow is pointing to what looks to be a mounting point for a rear shock. Could someone please help me?!?! Earl
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Welcome to Ontario Just in Time for Summer Vacation THE RULES OF RURAL ONTARIO ARE AS FOLLOWS Listen up City Slickers! 1. Pull your droopy pants up. You look like an idiot. 2. Turn your cap straight, your head isn't crooked. 3. Let's get this straight; it's called a 'dirt road.' I drive a pickup truck because I want to. No matter how slow you drive, you're going to get dust on your Lexus. Drive it or get out of the way. 4. They are cattle. They're live steaks. That's why they smell funny to you. But they smell like money to us. Get over it. Don't like it? Hwy 7 & 401 goes east and west, Hwy 15 & 416 goes north and south. Pick one. 5. So you have a $60,000 car. We're impressed. We have $150,000 combines and hay balers that are driven only 3 weeks a year. 6. So every person in rural Ontario waves. It's called 'being friendly. Try to understand the concept. 7. If that cell phone rings while an 8-point buck and 3 does are coming in, we WILL shoot it out of your hand. You better hope you don't have it up to your ear at the time. 8. Yeah, we eat meat and potatoes. You really want sushi & caviar? It's available at the corner bait shop. 9. The 'Opener' refers to the first day of deer hunting season. It's a religious holiday held the closest Saturday to the first of November. 10. We open doors for women. That is applied to all women, regardless of age. 11. There's little for 'vegetarians' on the menu. Order steak. Or you can order the Chef's Salad and pick off the 2 pounds of ham & turkey. 12. When we set a table, there are three main dishes: meats, vegetables and breads. We use three spices: salt, pepper, and ketchup. 13. You bring 'coke' into my house, it better be brown, wet and served over ice. 14. You bring 'Mary Jane' into my house, she better be cute, know how to shoot, drive a truck, and have long hair. 15. Ontario Hockey League and Minor Hockey is as important here as the Maple Leafs and Montreal Habs, and more fun to watch. 16. Yeah, we have golf courses. But don't hit the water hazards -- it spooks the fish. 17. Colleges? We have them all over. We have Universities and Community Colleges. They come outta there with an education plus a love for God and country, and they still wave at everybody when they come for the holidays. 18. We have a whole ton of folks in the Armed Forces. So don't mess with us. If you do, you will get whipped by the best. 19. Turn down that blasted car stereo! That thumpity-thump crap ain't music, anyway. We don't want to hear it anymore than we want to see your boxers. (Refer back to #1). 20. TWO inches of snow & ice isn't a blizzard - it's a vacation. Drive like you got some sense in it, and DON'T take all our bread, milk, and bleach from the grocery stores. This ain't Alaska, worst case you may have to live a whole day without croissants. The pickups with snow blades and tractors with snow blowers will have you out the next day. A true Ontarian will send this on!!!
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I have been taking inventory of a collection of parts I have stacked up over the years, and think I have most of the makings to build my own trike. My problem is that the engine I want to use has a chain drive, and I'm at a loss as to how to attach a chain drive to a car rearend. Then Wallllllaaaa!!! Rottdoglover states in another thread that he has done just that. How??? All ideas and instructions entertained.
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I is back!!! Boomer.....With a new Hard Drive and a desire to smack Bill Gates silly.
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The first gen drive shaft I understand is unobtainable other than used these days. I see a few on ebay but many are for later years of the first gen. Is the drive shaft part itself common across the first gen years or does it evolve so that a late model one would be of no use for use in an '84 ? Thanks, Brian H. -
I have some questions that I cannot find reference to in any articles so far. I just did my spring maintainence, oil, filter and final drive oil. I am really glad that I got the Carbon 1 lift adaptor, it made my life so much easier, doing all this by myself. With the bike still on the side stand, I drained the oil, and removed the old oil filter. This is the first question What exactly is that "rectifier" piece that blocks the oil filter at the front? What a pain in the ass that is, and could they not have given us like 1/2 inch more, so we could get a socket on the cap for the oil filter? The manual says to take it off to get access to the oil filter, but I just manage with a strap type oil filter wrench, although that is a pain as well. Well, I bought a new yamaha oil filter (last time I do that $14, they can kiss my ) Well I have a case of 10-40 oil from a friend, no friction modifiers. I also had about a litre of 20-50 left in a 4L jug of yamalube (first oil change) and a litre of 10-40 yamalube (second oil change) so I just tossed them both in (waste not want not) and topped off with the penzzoil 10-40. Second question, Does anyone think that mixing the viscosities, and oils will affect anything? I just didn't want to waste that oil. I guess I am a cheap ass when you get right down to it. I changed the oil filter, and put the plug with new crush gasket ($2 for that. Does anyone know of a better place to buy them?) Then I took off my left saddle bag, easy job thanks to Dragerman and the hand tightening bolts he gave me. Then I drained the final drive oil. I changed it last year too, I don't think that it can be changed too often can it? The drain bolt had what appeared to be some kind of grease all over it, I wiped it clean and re-installed it. 3rd question, was I supposed to add some kind of grease to the plug? I then affixed my lift adaptor to the bike, and jacked it up. Carbon 1 lift adaptor worked flawlessly. I affixed the legs to the adaptor, and removed my jack. Now I set to refilling all the fluids I drained. With the bike level and upright, was a breeze. First I filled the rear end drive oil. I filled it to the bottom of the fill hole using an oil syringe I got at walmart. It just did not seem to be as much as I put in last time. So I spun the rear wheel by hand in neutral. The oil got sucked up in the drive, I left it for a bit with the wheel stopped, and very slowly the oil level was visible again at the bottom of the fill bolt hole. I spun it again, and when the level dropped, I added more oil maybe 50 ml more, and put the plug back in quickly and tightened. Question 4, will overfilling the final drive a bit, cause me any problems? I filled the engine oil as well, no problems there, and checking the level was a breeze. Usually that is the biggest pain for me, doing it by myself. So, any answers to my silly questions?
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Started to put my bike back together today and got a little surprise. I had not bothered to clean the drive shaft or differential when I removed it several weeks ago because I didn’t expect anything to be wrong with them after only 12,000 miles with no apparent symtoms. Cleaned the drive shaft with brake cleaner, scrubbed it good with scotch-brite, hit it with brake cleaner again, and blew it off with the air gun. Got out the magnifying glass and found it to be a piece of junk. I have some experience in metallurgy and expected to see a wear pattern on the teeth, not cracks, chips, and uneven wear. When I removed the differential drain plug to flush it out with new fluid I found it covered with shavings. The gears in the differential look good. I got the bike last year with a few thousand miles on it and put an additional 7,000 on it. I suspect this 9 year old bike has never had any maintenance done before I picked it up – regardless what the last owner said. Has anybody had this experience or seen a drive shaft with this kind of wear? (see attached pictures)
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Folks, The manual calls for sealant on the 2 mating surfaces of the final drive and the drive shaft tube, but it did not look like any was on mine when it was disassembled. What sealant do you use when reassembling, if any? Is there something other than the Yamaha brand that would work if you do seal those surfaces? Thanks -
I'm going to casually start looking for a new final drive for my 86'. It's too damn noisy. I don't want to use the 83-85 ones. I want the newest one I can find. Will the 2nd gen drives fit? Thanks. Great forum! -
Sunday, April 5, 09, I joined a couple on a yellow Gold Wing (long-time friends, going back 30 years), on a tour of the Shenandoah Valley in Virginia. The roads were outstanding; once off I-81, US 340, and US 11, those backroads are terrific, empty, and quite scenic. Late March/early April is a good time to get out and ride the mid-Atlantic States, weather permitting (and it can be quite changeable around here). On the way back, we took the Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park, north to Front Royal, the northern end of the Drive. Below is a picture of me and my Venture, taken by my friend Dan from his Gold Wing. He pointed the camera backward and got this shot, as well as many others. http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss146/gssuzukiguy/Nick_April5_04-Copy.jpg?t=1239456081
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The final drive seal (Part 22 in this photo http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx ) is leaking. If anyone has changed this seal, I have a question. Does this seal remove/install from the outside, or do you have to remove part 19 and install it from the inside? Thanks in advance for any advice. Ronnie King EDIT: Sorry, the link will not take you directly to the correct page. I have a 1999 second gen XVZ1300, and the correct page is the one for the driveshaft.
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As I mentioned before, I have been been laid off from my regular job since December. Now, don't get me wrong, I have enjoyed the time off and have gotten a bunch of motorcycle related projects completed on both my 86'Vr and 87'VRs as well as worked on quite a few other bikes. After more than 38 years as a Machinist I am happy to say that I still enjoy doing machine work, and especially enjoy it when I get to do the Engineering side of the coin as well. About a week ago I was approached to do some Engineering/ Machine work on a gas powered four wheel drive car. The bumpers and skid plates on this car were made of cheap plastic and were destroyed pretty quickly. I was given Cart Blanche to design some components that would be more durable and help protect the engine and drive train components. I used high grade Delrin and Stainless Steel and attached everything with S.S. hardware. I had no idea that these cars were so expensive ($400.00 to $1100.00 for a single car!) and I also didn't know that there would be a market for replacement parts. Since completing this project, I have had two more orders for parts, Boy, I sure would like to do this for a living! Earl
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After drive shaft, rear drive, brake, front fork springs, and wiring problems IT'S DONE. Went down the road today and ran so well I ALMOST forgot how cold it was. Still will install new brake pads and some chrome I bought but looks like it's ready to ride. Thanks for all the help everyone made repairs much faster.
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First of all, I'm not much of mechanic but have been studying everyone's experience and decided to get give it a shot. Today I pulled the differential on my 2000 RSV after I removed the wheels to install my new Avons. That went pretty well using my new Carbon One adaptor and everyone's advice. But then, had a horrible time getting the drive shaft out of the differential. Ended up destroying the seal to get it off. Now, am struggling to get the rest of the seal off the shaft - have it soaking in some carb cleaner right now. Also, it appeared that the output end of the drive shaft (part that goes inside the pumkin after the seal) is lubed by rear end grease. Couple questions: Is there a better way to get that seal off the drive shaft? Why do you grease the output end of the drive shaft if it is bathed in differential grease? What do you have to leave on the rear wheel for the shop to install the new tire and balance? I have removed the disk brake rotors on all the wheels to protect them. (Found that a shot of WD40 on all the bolts as well as a slight tap with the ball peen hammer on the head of the bolt allowed them to be extracted pretty easy.) I have purchased some Honda Moly60 to grease everything when reassembling. Thanks in advance, Jinksy
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I have read a few posts on this but still have a few questions. I plan on lubing the rear end in 3 places when I change my rear tire on my 07 RSV. Rear hub drive pins Rear hub splines Rear drive shaft splines (front and back) This is the first time I have done this. The shop manual says to use Lithium soap for rear hub area and Moly for driveshaft. I have read posts about the Honda Moly 60 paste on this site. I mentioned the Moly 60 paste to my dealer who was hesitant to use something with such a high Moly content. I didnt get into a big discussion with him as I want him to stand behind me if there are problems in the future. He has no problem with me doing my own service but seemed to be more comfortable with the lithium soap on rear and normal moly on the driveshaft. Is there a real compelling reason to use Moly 60 or is it more important that you simply grease things to spec? Are the three areas above all that need greasing in the rear end? Any feedback is always appreciated. Thanks Jim
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Hi everyone. Great forum! I have an 86' with 54k. I've put 4k on it since I bought it last Oct 2008. The bike rules in every regard. However, since I've owned it it has always had a consistent whine from somewhere in the drivetrain. THe whine is always there. Wether accelerating, decelerating, coasting, engine on or engine off. In or out of gear. Clutch in or out. The first thing I did when I bought the bike was change the final drive fluid. The previous owner was pretty neglectful of the mantainence so I was suprised when the fluid that came out looked almost new. No flakes or anything. I filled it with synthetic and nothing changed. Having experienced a failed pinion bearing on my BMW k75 and also my jeep cherokee, I know what dying bearings sound like. This almost sounds like backlash out of whack. However, in my experience, bad backlash adj. sounds different on the drive or coast side and also depending on how hot the gears are. This is consistent all the time. For awhile I thought it was the front tire that was cupped all to hell but I just replaced the tires. It's not the tires. Definitely coming from down yonder. There's no clunkiness or slop in the final drive and the bike is smooth overall. Just a whine that sounds like a semitruck (not as loud though). It doesn't bother me too much but I'm getting a little paranoid. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
