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Showing results for tags 'cylinder'.
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There wasn't much going on this weekend, so I decided to black out the cylinder covers on my scoot... I plan on scuffing/buffing the edges of the fins, but I'm waiting for the paint to cure first... Of course I had to attach before and after photos.... http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/human4m/0417001356.jpg http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/human4m/0417001355.jpg http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/human4m/0418001626.jpg http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/human4m/0418001626a.jpg
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I got to tell you I'm not much for preventive maintenance. Sure I change the oil and plugs fairly regularly. Usually change the tires before the threads are showing but I never have changed the brake fluid or the fluid in the clutch. Just added as needed. I will also add I've been riding for probably longer then most of you folks be alive. Now, recently, last Thursday to be exact my clutch failed, no fluid. The slave cylinder was leaking big time. I ordered the repair kit and all the gaskets. Both cases on the left side have to be pulled to get at that berger. Long and the short of it is the cylinder housing was so pitted I don't think I could have honed them all out. Maybe but I decided I didn't want to have to redo the job a second time. To get to the part you have to take the exhaust pipes off the left side as well as the foot rest, the shift linkage and the hanger for the exhaust pipe. Morale of the story is a 20 minute clutch fluid change would have saved me 3 or 4 hours of labor and $150.00 in parts....... Hummm, maybe I'll change the fluid in the brakes while I'm waiting for the parts. BOO
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The saga continues. My 1996 RS that I recently purchased and have been working my way thru its issues has come up with still another problem. If the bike is left running at idle all is ok. If you take the bike out for a ride and get it hot cylinder #1 smokes/burns oil real bad. Shut it off let it cool and start it again all will be ok till you take it out for a ride. I found oil on the outside of the muffler for cylinder #1 about 1/4" back also inside the muffler ( they are slash cut mufflers). I pulled the plug for #1 and it was ok, also compression for that cylinder is good. -
master cylinder..anyone got one?
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
doesn't need to be rebuilt, i just bought the kit. The one i had needed the screws drilled out, as the heads were broken off. I snapped a drill bit off in the hole it's leaking with only one screw, so i was hoping someone might have one for cheap they would be willing to part with? last thing i need to get on the road Edit: Rocket called me and reminded me that it might be useful for you guys to know WHICH one i need! i need the brake master for the front, for a MK 2 (Electric AntidiveThanks Rocket! (i'm sorry, i don't know your first name I feel bad since you know mine!) -
Thanks to everyone for the help. All the problems I was having before are fixed for the time being and the bike is starting easily and running good. So here I go with the next problem. I have no pressure on the foot brake. I plan on bleeding the brakes tomorrow sometime to try to fix it. So if I have researched correctly, I need to bleed the rear brake caliper first, and then the left front caliper, correct? Then the right front. The only other thing I need some info about is the master cylinder lid on the front brake master cylinder. There are 2 phillips head screws holding the lid on. One of the screws is completely stripped and I can't get it out. What do you all think is the best way to get this thing out? Thanks everyone! -
Take that anyway you want to here's the question -I already pestered Earl with this but I did not explain myself properly, and the man should have to do everything! I pumped fluid from the rear bleeder to the master cylinder without a problem. I am trying to do the same in front, push fluid from the bleeder on the caliper through the line to the reservoir. Problem is that I seem to be blowing most of it out from between the tube and the bleeder as thought there is a block. I took the bleed screw out and it is clear. No fluid seems to be reaching the reservoir. What would cause this. *It's a new master cylinder!!
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OK, I've got a problem with the clutch on my 86! I rebuilt the master cylinder and when I got it disassembled, I found that the kit that I got was the wrong one. I took that back to the shop I got it from (independent guy that I use) along with the old parts. He found what appeared to be right (Yami # 2KW-W0099-00) and swapped with me. I came home and put it back together. Now it won't build any pressure. I have tried: 1) Putting fluid in from bleeder with a syringe. At first I got a few little bubbles in the master, now it won't take it at all thru' the bleeder even with lots of pressure. 2) Cleaned and cleared the bleeder, then Teflon taped it. It didn't drip much with the bleeder out either. 3) Bleeding the old fashioned way, with LOTS of pumping. It will push a little thru but not much, and I have gone thru at least 5 reservoirs full. 4) Using a mighty vac to suck it thru the bleeder. 5) Disassembled and reassembled master to make sure all parts are in the right order. 6) Tied the clutch lever back overnight to allow air to come up. 7) Left clutch lever alone overnight to allow air to come up. 8) Pulled out some of what little hair I have left! :confused07: I've thought of getting all the fluid out that I can and then blowing air through it from both ends. That does sound messy though! Any ideas out there? (Relating to my clutch issue that is!) Does anyone recognize that part number? I'm wondering if the size is off just a fraction. It was snug going into the cylinder. Tuesday I'm gonna call my dealer and check their number. This problem is so bad that I had to borrow and ride a V-Rod to Hootor's Bike Night on Thursday night! -
Hey all, I'm thinking of taking off the Cylinder Head Covers, and having them powdercoated, and I figured since it's liquid-cooled, it shouldn't affect heat dispersion too much... Anyone have any input on why I shouldn't move forward with this idea?
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I have a 1988 with 28,500 miles on it stripped down. Cylinder heads and valves looked normal. Pistons 1 & 2 have a tight oil ring. There is burnt oil below rings on #'s 1 & 2. End clearance on #1 ring about .020" on on all 4. End clearance on #2 ring about .020" on 3 & 4. End clearance on #2 ring about .026" on 1 & 2. Side clearance on all oil rings in tolerance. Cylinder walls good on 2,3 & 4, cross hatching still very visible. Cylinder wall on #1 not bad condition but cross hatching not as visible. No ridge at top of cylinder. What if any thing specific would cause left side pistons to be in worse shape than right side. Picture shows pistons 1 -4, left to right. Gary -
My buddy bough a a 72 CB 500 with a 550 engine and a Kawasaki front end. He wants to learn how to ride. It's been sitting for four years with half a tank full of gas. First we have to clean out the gas tank, then we're gonna sandblast the carbs. Then were going to clean/empty the brake lines out, I checked and it was empty, but there was just a little in the cylinder still. Then, before we even try to get it running, im going to drop the oil, and get new spark plugs. And if all else goes right, a fresh new paint job He spent $400 on this bike, so hopefully we can get it running right!
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Can one of you smart folks out there tell what these are? Left rear cylinder has a chromed wire loop and a small curved chrome plate on top. Right rear cylinder has a chromed wire loop on top. I'm baffled! Thanks to anyone who solves my mystery.
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Just finished firing up the scoot and running her for 25 minutes from a stationary position. Outside temp is 39F. The scoot is sitting on an incline with the front end higher than the rear. Within 2 minutes of starting her I notice WHITE SMOKE wisping off the exhaust pipe for the RIGHT REAR cylinder as I am sitting on the bike. I thoroughly checked everything around the area of that right rear cylinder and I see nothing to indicate what is the source of this white smoke. I have never encountered this specific problem on the scoot before. There is NO evidence of oil or coolant leakage anywhere on the engine or around that particular cylinder. I ran the bike warm enough so that I could hear the fan running a few minutes before I turned off the engine too. Yes the bike is still under Warranty but getting it to the Dealer at this time is not a viable option due to all the snow and ice I'm dealing with here. Any idea's ....comments....suggestions? Boomer.....who's really baffled by this problem!!
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(The information in this post would serve well to be included in the tech library with the other coolant change information.) I changed my coolant the other day for the first time. After reading all of the very helpful posts and the Tech Library, the only thing I noticed was that there were no tips on how to do it without creating a mess, especially when draining the cylinders. Sooo, I spent more time visualizing and figuring than I did actually draining the coolant, but I did come up with a method that resulted in no mess on the engine or floor. This will make my, and hopefully your, next coolant change a little easier and less messy. As well, I found that at 2 inch long screw of the proper thread size was easier to use for pulling the cylinder side drain plugs than using the cumbersome spark plug. I didn't repeat the steps on how to get to the radiator cap and how to remove of the side covers, as this information is already well documented in the tech library. PHOTO 1 - Side Cover Drain Bottle Get a 16 oz soda bottle, the type that is smooth sided because it flexes better. Cut an angle across the bottom end and cut out room for your fingers to pull the plug on the top side. You can do a few test fits with the bottle to get the angle right. You will need the cap screwed onto the bottle when you use it. PHOTO 2 - Draining Radiator Put the bike on a jack and raise it high enough to clear a 5 gallon bucket. Remove the radiator cap, then the radiator drain plug and the radiator will speed dump with no mess. - - - - - - - Next, you will want to grab a large bath towel (preferably not the one your wife just bought at Kohl's). While I only dripped about 1 ounce of coolant onto the towel while draining cylinder 3, I used under the drain bottle on each cylinder to catch any dribbles (and this was the first time I tried this method and didn't know how well it would work). Photos 3-5 illustrate how I placed the towel and the drain bottle for cylinders 1, 3, and 4. (I saved cylinder 2 for last, as it involves making a chute out of packing tape to flow the coolant to the bottle.) The drain plugs are in place in all of the pics, as I took the pics after I drained each cylinder. The coolant in the drain bottle is from the respective cylinder pictured. PHOTO 3 - Draining Cylinder 1 PHOTO 4 - Draining Cylinder 3 PHOTO 5 - Draining Cylinder 4 - - - - - - - - The last step is draining cylinder 2. The location of the drain plug for cylinder 2 does not allow for the angling of the drain bottle. I saved this for last because it took a little construction of a chute made of packing tape. Tear three strips of packing tape long enough to go from the side of the cylinder to about 2 or 3 inches past the side of the chrome engine cover. One strip will be the middle strip with the sticky side down. The other two strips get folded in half lengthwise over the left and right third of the middle strip. Then abut one end of this tape contraption to the side of the cylinder and press the center portion down so it sticks to the top of the engine and along the groove of the chrome engine cover. You now have a little rain gutter to carry the coolant to your drain bottle. PHOTO 6 - Cylinder 2 tape chute PHOTO 7 - Cylinder 2 tape chute viewed from side angle PHOTO 8 - Cylinder 2 draining - - - - - - - - - - My coolant drain amounts were as follows: Radiator - 80 oz (2.5 qts) Cylinder 1 - 5 oz Cylinder 2 - 2 oz Cylinder 3 - 2 oz (this accounts for the 1 oz that spilled into towel) Cylinder 4 - 3 oz Reservoir - 10 oz (was at the "Full" line) Total - 102 oz (3.19 qts) I didn't drain the water pump. Every post I've read and folks I have spoken with said they only got 4 oz, at most, out of the water pump and the headache of getting to the plug outweighed the amount of fluid I would get out. Hope this has been of some help to others out there. Phoenix (If anyone would like higher resolution pics, let me know and I can email the high resolution originals to you.)
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I'm looking for an answer to a problem I'm having, and decided to go to the experts. I just completed a stator replacement. All went well, the second time. I don't want to explain. I am having an issue with the middle cover. After removing the allen screws, and removing the cover and gasket, something looked odd. On the back side, I expected a cylinder like backing on the bottom screw hole. To match up to the case with the gasket. (I have the copper washer) The top half of the cylinder is not there, and looks like it never was??? To put it simply, the dam thing won't stop dripping oil. It won't seal. I have never seen the back of this plate befoe, is there a piece missing or broken off. Any thoughts??? joe
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Just put bike back on road after 2 months, it was running rough, #3 ? cylinder, (right rear) was not firing as the pipe did not heat up. After searching this site, I took apart the spark plug cap on this and found corrosion on the spring. Cleaned it up, and now running like new again.
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I have eliminated the clutch assembly of my 86 VR as being the culprit for the bad, noisy, clunking shifting. I have also eliminated the problem being the slave since that part is newly installed. I also rebuilt the master but I think I should replace the master just to see if the shifting improves. Therefore, I am asking if anyone has a serviceable clutch master cylinder that you are willing to part with. If so, please let me know your price and I'll send anyway you desire; cash, PayPal, check, money order. All the m/c's on Ebay didn't look good except one and that fella is really proud of it. -
I purchased a 87 VR with 68K on Friday. The bike has been sitting for 5 years or better, last registered in 99. Went through the carbs over the weekend and she fired right up, sorta. At first I thought I had a dead charging system. I cleaned the connectors and now have 13.63 V going to a new battery. However, after pulling and cleaning a bunch of connectors, I have a dead tach. Re-checked everything and no luck. I also have a number one cylinder that is not pulling its weight. I will check valve clearence and do a compression test on that issue at a later time. The tach was working before, and I can't get the engine to respond to throttle input, I know the cylinder dragging is part of the issue, however it should slowly gain RPM's. Are there known issues with ECM's on these bikes? Any input would be greatly appreciated. I was a BMW / Kawasaki tech in a former life, but that was eons ago. Yams are a little greek to me. Looking forward to a long relationship with this particular bike. Once again, thanks for any hints. Longrider805 -
During Vogel I used Stevew's carb tune to do a carb sync. When I hooked up the carb tune I found that my #2 cylinder was showing no pressure whatsoever. I was able to sync the remaning three cylinders. Now I'm faced with figuring out why I have no intake pressure on the #2 cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas what to look for? -
If I'm losing clutch fluid and there are no external leaks evident:think:, am I to assume that the fluid is goin into the crankcase? The clutch works fine and does not bleed down even while holding it disengaged at long stoplights. I've had to refill the master cylinder once in the last three months and it needs some fluid now. It did not start "using" fluid before I changed it the last part of May. -
and I promise this will be my last post on this subject. Flame it if you must, but just read it all before you do. After the "healthy" discussion in the previously related post I decided to get an experts view on the AIS. I talked to a factory-cert'd mechanic today and asked him to explain the system in general, not just specific to our Ventures. He said that any changes to the exhaust, from merely drilling small holes in the baffles, to a full-on custom exhaust will cause the injection system to perform at less-than-designed efficiency. The less back-pressure, or restriction down stream will allow more fresh, cooler air to be drawn thru the injection system into the exhaust, thereby causing the detonation of unburned gasses that we hear. He said this was one of the issues that H-D encountered when they introduced the "parade-mode" of dropping the rear cylinder in idling situations to help keep the bike cooler. Add aftermarket pipes and the amount of fresh air being pumped into the rear cylinder increased and caused the same thing we are seeing when the rear cylinder came back up. He said he has tried unsucessfully to fabricate some sort of "orfice" that would restrict the amount of air equal to stock conditions. He said fuel injected bikes were less-succeptible to it, and easier to correct. I asked if he had encountered other problems thru the years that contributed to the problem, and he said "of course", the same as mentioned here, fouled plugs, leaky vac. lines, old fuel, and on and on, but the main problem was the relieving of the back pressure. He's an old-school kind of guy, so I didn't bring up the Polar Bears and global warming. I'm done now.
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The past weekend I wanted to replace the clutch slave cylinder and rebuild the clutch master cylinder. Even though I thought replacing the slave would be the most difficult, that went pretty smoothly and only took about 1 hour. I may have been lucky. So then I started with the master cylinder. HOW DO YOU REMOVE THAT DOGGONE LOCK RING? I then cut grass for the rest of the day. Thanks
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No fire on any cylinder. Need help Cell # 4237260431
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Hi! I'm new to this website and also a new owner of an '05 RSV which I'm rebuilding from a salvage bike. I'm down to the last part - passing lamps. I saved the original passing lamp bar and turn signals hoping I could find another damaged one and swap out the parts. I did find an '07 passing lamp/bar but it seems to have different connectors for the turn signals. The old one has some kind of break-off-type cylinder (one of which is broken, of course) that connects the turn signal to the passing lamp above it. The "new" one has more of a solid type cylinder. Does anyone have any idea or experience with what I'm talking about here? I hope I can find the right break-off type cylinder or new adapter to mount the "new" lamp to my old bar or vice versa.... I thought all the 2nd generation RSVs had interchangeable parts!...??? I guess since the passing lamps are optional, then there are different configurations and different manufacturers. I don't really want to spend another $300 on a complete passing light set unless I can be assured it has the right connectors for the turn signals. I'd appreciate an assembly drawing if one exists, showing the connector between the turn signal and the passing lamp. Thanks, -
Are the Front Brake levers from the 86-90 Ventures different from the 83-85 Front Brake Levers? The lever on my '83 Venture is bent at a weird angle that makes it awkward to grab & pull without messing with throttle control, & I don't think it's safe. It looks like I'm maybe going to have to buy a used master cylinder on ebay in order to get a good brake lever, and I saw a master cylinder off of an 86-90 Venture - thought maybe the brake lever is probably the same - does anyone know for sure? Also, my brake lights don't light up with the front brake - only with the foot brake lever, so I suspect the switch on the master cylinder is bad. Maybe its not so bad to have to buy the master cylinder if it has a good switch in it as well. If anyone has a good 83-85 front brake lever and/or master brake cylinder they would sell me, please PM or email me. There is one used '83 front brake master cylinder on ebay that they want $50 for with a "buy it now" + $12 shipping, and it looks like it's 36 years old and has seen better days - seems kind of pricey, doesn't it? I would think it would have to look very pretty & function perfectly to pay that much for one. Thanks for any info. Doug -
just bought a 1990 been trying to trouble shoot fixed one cylinder with new plug wire and boot trying to do the same for other cylinder when i pull the plug when bike is running there is no drop in performance, also the wire will spark outside the wire when unplugged and touching the cylinder with a neww wire and boot
