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Showing results for tags 'carbs'.
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I took the air cleaner off today looking for a gas smell. The seal on #1 carb is not leaking (another thread covers epoxy sealing a small carb leak) and I found no gas anywhere. Started the Beast and watched for anything. #1 and #2 carbs want to puff a little white smoke (vapor?) when the throttle is twisted moderately hard from idle. All four slides are slightly open (1/4") when the engine is not running (is this normal?). There is wet oil on the tops of #1 and #2 carbs. I can see where it is coming out of the air breather and working its way through the air cleaner boots. I put a small air filter (see photo) inside the air box to try and slow this down. OK all you experts . . . Why does my VR smell like gas?
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What is the 'recommended' position of the E clip on the carb diaphragm needle valves? Needle valve is similar to one on bottom of attached picture, not exactly but close. I am getting these carbs closer on Speedy, but I stil have a slight popping below 3,000 RPM's & gas mileage is somewhat lower than expected. About 25-30mpg range. Carbs are 35mm mikunis with stock VMax jets in. 150 mains, 90 PAJ2, 170 PAJ1 & 37.5 pilot. Gary -
after changing the plugs, changing the oil, i decided to install skydocs shim kit before i synced the carbs using the carbtune pro i got from zane. thanks again zane. 3 carbs, no problem. last carb, DOH! i must have put the nylon nut ever so slightly wrong, and SNAP! broke a diaphragm housing. lack of patience i suppose. only had about a good 2 hours of clear weather before the rain came this weekend. i found some new ones on ebay. so i bought 2, 1 for a backup. and i got 2 needle kits, just for spares.
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I'm new to the Ventureriders forums, but want to say thanks to all that have posted. I purchased a 2006 RSTD Midnight about a month ago with 12,000 miles on it. I bought it from a local Harley dealership, so don't know how it was maintained. All was fine until I went to work two weeks ago. The bike ran like it was running on 2 cylinders and had no power. A guy at work shamed me into paying the $12.00 to become a full member. Best money I have ever spent. Been busy at work so haven't had time to work on it until the night before last. Some post I have read said it sounded like a stuck float or a plugged jet. I tried to tap the carbs after shutting off the gas...etc. Well I thought it was time to pull the carbs and clean them. Thinking 12,000 miles on a 5 year old bike wasn't all that much and the bike may have sat for some time. I decided to grab some spark plugs, oil and filter, and a CarbTuneII ($50.00 on Ebay), brakes, and an Avon Venom rear tire. Started tearing the bike apart. pulled the seat, then the tank. When I went to pull the Airbox, I noticed the two boots that connect the airbox to the carbs were loose and had some oil on the carbs. I pulled the airbox and cleaned the oil from the boots and the carbs, replace the spark plugs, synced the carbs, change the oil, changed the brakes, and replaced the rear tire. The bike is running fantastic now. I want to get out for a ride but the rainy Ohio weather is keeping me in. Everything I did to the bike in the last two days I learned here on this forum. I have to say it would have cost me well over $12.00 to have the steelership work on it.... Just wanted to say thanks.
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Ok So i am jumpning feet in . The low end stumble when trying to take off , the hard starts in the summer while having to use full choke. And the long wait to warm up even in the summer is driving me nuits. The 96 rstc came with kromewerks aftermarket pipes and I doubt it was ever rejetted. I was planning on taking the carbs off and turning the pilot jets richer 1/2 to a full turn but was told by a friend if the carbs are gonna be off just step up the main jets one size larger. does anyone have any info on this . Is it a good idea and if so where do i get the jets and how do i know what size are in there now? I have a dose of seafoam now to see if this is the problem. i plan on doingthis labor day weekend so I want to get ready now.
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Got the bike last week. Running ok, horrible gas mileage. Just didn't feel right. Previous owner supposedly had the carbs rebuilt. Found that one of the carbs idle air screw was closed. Set all to 2 1/2 turns and gained substantial power, but sluggish at wot. Starts great idles fine, but something still seems off. Changed plugs and wires, no change. Where I was at yesterday; gas mileage is horrendous, wot is fluttering, #3 cylinder exhaust temp 450ish and the rest 150-190ish. Starts easy, idles easy and runs down the road fine. Feels like I can drive it anywhere. This morning I decided to pull the carbs. Boy it was a pita, throttle cables at the carb were a nightmare and reinstalling the cables and the vacuum line from engine to the air box was a royal pain. Well, looks like I got half a rebuild. Looks like new diaphragms (or nice old ones), new air jets etc... The wet side was pretty nasty, but got it all cleaned out. Put it back together and started it and it now idles at 3500+ without the choke. I can hold the throttle closed and will drop to 1500, let go back up. When I put my hand slamming the throttle it barely moves. Out side cable has slack, not sure about the inner cable. Before I put the carbs on I tried to get all butterflies near closed and the same as best as my old eyes could so whatever sync that was on it is long gone. Ideas on what I can do? I don't have a sync tool, but have a single vacuum gauge. I thinkmit might be an issue with the inner throttle cable. I tried single gauge sync yesterday before I decided to pull the carbs and I had real bad flutter in the gauge so I limited flow and saw only about 1mm of vacuum in all carbs. Hopefully that changes tomorrow. I'm real tight on money right now, so I won't have a sync tool for another couple of weeks.
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Curious, tks! -
I guess I’ll begin by introducing myself. I’m Lee Winders and live in the small town of Mansfield, Tn. A few months ago I purchased an ’83 VR. The motorcycle had been setting up for quite some time. The man I bought it from hadn’t ridden it very much. He bought it from someone that I think had let it set up as well. The man I bought it from said the last time he rode it, it quit and he was unable to get it to run again. He said it acted like it was not getting gas. He had shown me the bike about a year ago and I told him if he ever wanted to get rid of it to let me know. He called me a few months ago and asked if I would give $200.00 for it. Well I figured it would be worth it if only for parts. I got it home and the first thing I did was remove the carbs. They were a mess to say the least. I went through and cleaned them as well as I could. I removed the gas tank and drained it. I replaced the fuel lines and filter on the tank side of the fuel pump. I still have the original fuel line on the pressure side. By the way, the bike has 19,000 miles on it. I put fresh gas in it and tried to start it. After about 10 minutes of messing with it, it finally hit. It will only run when fully choked. And then it runs very rough. I’m sure the carbs are way out of adjustment. I also notice the when trying to crank it, one of the carbs didn’t have any suction at all. Possibly a stuck valve. I don’t have the air box on it at this time and I’m sure this would also affect the way it runs. There is a lot of other work that needs to be done on the bike but first I want to know that the engine is ok. I really don’t think there is anything seriously wrong with the bike. It’s going to be a work in progress. I welcome all the help I can get
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I picked up a long reach phillips screwdriver. Already synch'd two carbs. Anyone else wants to stop by, the cost is free, and I can give you a quick tour of the great river road from Guttenberg to Dubuque, IA. Takes about 5 minutes to synch the carbs and 1 hour to ride on some of the best MC roads in flyover country.
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Hi, long time no see! To make a long story short: My Venture acts weird, the problem right now as I've pulled the airbox is that I can see butterfly #2 not closing eventhough the idlescrew does not touch it!? If I slack the cable at the trottle the throttle will not pull back by itself. If I force the throttle back, the butterfly closes...If I adjust the cables so that I have "normal" throttle operation I still have slack but no go on #2 butterfly!? Is there a spring or something among the carbs that is either missing or come loose since I rebuilded the carbs 5 years ago (yeah, I'm afraid it's been sitting still since, only occasionally startups...) ? regards from Sweden Abbe
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If I crack the throttle wide open quickly while at highway speed, I smell gas, the smell goes away as I resume normal speeds , all carbs appear dry externally, thoughts oh wise ones? -
I have the 86 and it is doing ok. It has sat in the garage for the last 5 weeks while I recover from another hernia surgery. Ok throttle is a little stiff. Also have to really crank hard for wide open throttle. Cables appear to be in stock location. There is a differance if the bars are turned left or right. I have not checked anything much yet really. I did notice when I put the carbs back on the attempting WOT the bracket at the carbs actually deflects and moves some. There is nothing stuck or stiff in the carb assembly. worked great by hand when rebuilding and reinstalling them. Am planning on lubeing the cables up with my cable ease stuff. Wondering what all fairng pieces I have to remove to get to the cruise control cable box and if people have issues with the routing of the cables especially in the triple tree area. Thanks everybody.
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While performing some routine maintenance on my bike, I removed both sides of the (what I call airbox) under the tank, that connects the hose from the airfilters into the carbs and found that they were wet with oil inside them. The foam gaskets that mount the two sides together were pretty wet with oil as well. Is this an issue or normal occurence? At first I was thinking it was fuel since they open to the carbs, but it was definitely oil. Where is that coming from? They were not dripping wet and there was more on the left side than right, but it was enough to get my attention. Thanks Mongo
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When cleaning my 02 I noticed a lot of small cracks in the rubber elbow from the carbs to the engine. I don't think any go through the rubber....yet. Is this common and is it likely to give me grief anytime soon?
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Hello....I didn't know where to post these couple of Questions....so I chose here. I am thinking Of selling my '86 Kaw Vulcan 750 and purchasing a 99 - '04 RSV..... I love the Smoothness and reliability of the V-4 engine.....but I hate carbs.....so what kind of issues or problems have you folks had with your carbs. Are they pretty reliable? Do they stay in sync pretty well? Are parts for Mikuni 32's easy to get parts for? What about lowering options....The seat height is a little high for me....I am 5' 6". What other problem areas are there with the RSV. I am going to purchase one of these bikes next April. Thank you for any info that you may have for me.
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Had my 25K miles, 85 venture for about 6 years, it never ran right - it would cut out at 6200 rpm, spit, sputter at full throttle on excelleration, I know it needed to have the carbs cleaned but I didn't want to spend the money. I just forked out over 200 bucks to clean the carbs, new plugs, wires, now it hesitates and doesn't go over 5200 rpms at full throttle. If I don't have it wide open I can reach redline in 1st. 2nd gear tops out at about 4500 rpm. Mechanic claims it is not the carbs mainly because it goes great until 5200 rpms ? I'm frustrated - I don't know how to fix the bike myself yet - IF it was a carb problem at 6200, so why not a carb problem at 5200 ?? I've already paid the bill, don't want to invest more money. I feel like I should have just left it alone if this is as good as it gets. Any ideas ? -
Is there any one in Minnesota that cloud help me change out the clutch fluid and synch my carbs? I don't have the thing to synch the carbs aslo if you can show me how to inspect the clutch that would be great.
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Hi Everyone - This is my first time here and I am from Woodbury, MN. Some guys on the Venture Rider's Facebook page told me there are some brilliant people here. Has anyone else had problems with their Royal Star shooting gas out of the carbs when it comes out of winter storage? I bought my 2006 RSTD brand new in 2008 and this has happened to me 2 times in 3 years! Last time it cost me $500 to have the carbs cleaned out. I followed the storage-prep instructions to a T. Very frustrating. What do I need to do to get it road-ready again. I'm not mechanically inclined and I am very disturbed at the thought of having to spend $500 for the 2nd time in 3 years to solve the problem. Thanks! Mike
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I have not started to look for the problem yet, but here are the symptoms. First off I have an 1985 royale with an 87 engine. Did the swap 4th of July weekend 2010 and the bike has run great. Now it starts and runs fine for cruising but when I get the rpms over 4500 it has no power. I used the carbs from the 1200 engine but with larger jets (same as the 1300 carbs would have). It has been running like this since I took it out this spring last year it ran fine. It seems like the timing is not advancing. Any suggestions would be great.
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im looking for a cross reference part number for my needle valves and seat seals for my 05 rstd... mikuni makes carbs for a lot of different bike manufactures in cluding harley. i cant get them through any yamaha srvc cntr, they all tell me they are 5 -7 days out and im leaving for yellow stone tomorrow ( supposed to ), and i live in michigan. my thinking is that another srvc cntr has the parts i need but i dont know what part # to ask for or what bike ( other than mine ) has these carbs. how do i get this fixed by tomorrow so i can leave at 3pm????
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Did somebody knows where is the best place to get diaphragms and jets for the RS 1997 carbs? Thanks -
I am a less than a year member of this site(Its been Great). I will be leaving home tomorrow (If weather Permits), from Southeast Missouri and going to the Cincinnati area(to see my son). I have a 2006 rstd with 7800miles on it and would like some help syncing the carbs. I would gladly drive out of route to get this done and I would make it worth the time. Thanks if you can help.....The bike runs great, but I am having a little vibe in floor boards and tank. Thanks Larry:cool10::cool10:
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#4 was about 2" hg off. Idles much better now:) Anyone in the Dubuque IA area needs a mercury manometer, look me up:12101:
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Last fall I picked up a Kawasaki KZ440A LTD off Craigslist for $200. The previous owner was tired of paying someone to keep fixing it and was frustrated at his inability to get it running. The clutch wasn’t working and it wouldn’t idle. The airbox was missing but all the electrical items worked (except the horn). He had just put new tires on it and had the brakes done – including having the fluid changed. I put it on a trailer and dragged it home to join my other project bikes in the workshop. While my Dad was here over Easter, we took apart the clutch and found the adjustment mechanism had been adjusted beyond its limit and a nut had fallen off. We put it back together and the clutch works great. I looked at the horn and one of the connectors had fallen off. Put it back on and it now works. Found an airbox (the LTD airbox is rare to find in one piece) at a boneyard in Oklahoma. It had the mounting tab broken off but still costs $70. A complete airbox was going for $140 minimum on Ebay, so I bought this one and repaired it. Got it to start, but it wouldn’t run worth a darn. Tore off the carbs and took them apart. They were fairly clean, but the diaphragms were ripped. Found a company that made and sold new diaphragms and purchased a set for $29 each (plus shipping - $67 total). Installed them, put the carbs back together and put them on the bike. Ran better, but not well. Downloaded a shop manual for the bike from a KZ forum and went to work tuning the carbs. Checked the float height (they were spot on), drilled out the covers over the mixture screws and set them to the proper setting. Set the valve gaps in the engine (they weren’t too far off). BTW, this is the easiest bike to set valve gaps I have ever seen – nice design. Set up an auxiliary fuel supply in a water bottle, hooked up the Morgan Carbtune, and sync’d the carbs (has to be done with the tank off). Not too far off, but enough to cause problems. When I went to put it all back together, I noticed the previous owner had not hooked up the vacuum hoses to the right locations and didn’t have one of the vacuum ports capped as it should be. Just happen to have a selection of rubber caps in the shop and found one that fit. Bought a new battery since the old one was 11 years old and didn’t like holding a charge. Took the fairing off an old Vulcan and put it on this bike. Fits great. Turned the rear shocks up to the maximum spring rate setting to handle my fat butt on it. Tightened the chain and lubed it. Once I got all this done, I put the tank back on, hit the starter and it fired right up. It now idles smoothly at 1200 RPM and runs beautifully up to at least 60 MPH. No plates on it so I was only running around the immediate area. This is going to be a fun bike for the boys to ride. A little small for me to travel any distance on, but just fine for pounding around town. Attached are some pictures. Notice the tires. They both still have the color stripe around the tread. Can’t be 100 miles on them. They’re worth what I paid for the bike. Total cost - $200 purchase, $70 airbox, $67 diaphragms, $5 sparkplugs, $50 battery, $4 sheet of lawn mower air cleaner material (cut to shape to fit the airbox), $4 oil filter, various hardware (replaced all removed Phillips head screws with cap head equivalents) about $10 = $410.00 1 down, 2 to go. Suzuki 750 is next.
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It's a great sunday here in central NY.Wife's working all day and it's raining Guess I'll tune the carb's again. ain't nothin else to do.
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