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Showing results for tags 'box'.
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After watching the install of the Stebel Compact Air Horn on JBurrell's bike this past weekend at the SE TX Maintenance Day, I decided to take the plunge and do it. I have been looking for an auxiliary fuse block to put under the seat, and that took me to Harbor Freight last night. No fuse box, but I did pick up a box of connectors and shrink wrap marked at $4.99 each. At the checkout, the total rang up to $15+. Turns out that they had marked a sale last night that begins today (3/27)! W00t! So head to Harbor Freight and pick up some goodies for those electrical projects you are planning. The shrink wrap assortment is particularly cool. Yes, I did install the airhorn. LOUD! I took my time, did it right, and there is plenty of amperage available. BTW, I used the CARBON_ONE bracket, and it worked great. No, I haven't found a fuse box at HF, Auto Zone, or Academy (where Ponch suggested). Suggestions for that are appreciated.
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fuse box for head light??
bcarden posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I have an 85 vr that the fuse box sits on the battery and the fuse for the headlight have a broken clamp for the fuse does any one have a fuse box for sell or know where to get a replacement ?? thanks for the assist. -
Rode my bike and noticed a pretty good oil leak on the left side. Appears to be coming from up around top on the motor, under gas tank, right around or above the rubber housing by the carbs. I haven't pulled the tank to see if I can see anything else. Has anyone had this problem that could give me some clues on what and how to look for this leak? Thanks in advance. Update: Finally had a chance to run the leak down. It appears to be gasoline rather than oil. Right under the air filter box there appears to be a rubber joint with a clamp on it that connects from the bottom of the air box to the top of the carb. ( I think) The clamp is set at the top of the boot, right below the air box, and will not tighten up. If I move it to the bottom of the boot, at what appears to be the top of the carb, I can tighten it up better but there is still a leak at the very bottom of the air box. The bike runs o.k. at 70 MPH. If I push it up to 85 MPH it will blow blue smoke until I take it back to 70 MPH.
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Over at my other haunt XS11.com We have a very enlightening discussion of what actually goes on inside a TCI box. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20938
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LOCAL ONLY. I have a like new 20 in 2.4 Ghz Core 2 Duo Processor 320GB hard Dr Imac for sale. Looks like it just came out of the box. It comes with everything it came with including the box and also IWORK 08 and 3 year apple care till Jan 5 2011. Also has 4 gig of ram instead of 2. I am not working this is why I am selling and I also have the receipt paid $1618.92 with tax. My price is firm. $950.00 Also can call 734-512-3526 Thanks Joe See classified also
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1. If your horns are not loud, take them off, remove the back cover, loosen the adjusting screw and nut and readjust for the loudest noise. Cover your ears! 2. Grease the hand and foot levers often, You'll be surprised how much easier they will operate and last. Do this often in wet climates. 3. Drop the carb needle jets to get better gas mileage. 4. On Std. models the area under the trunk under a black plastic cover is empty. I easily converted it to tool storage. 5. On Std models remove the fairing pockets/trays/compartments and cut it out . This will double your storage space. Fill in gaps with pink insulation? Carry light items only. 6. Cup holder: Walmart bicycle cup holder, $5, mount to handlebar. Use a metal insulated covered cup from $1 stores. 7. Wire tie the 2 side panel blackstraps to the frame so you don't loose them. $10 each from Yamaha! 8. The removeable rear trunks on MK1's have an adjustment on the underside brackets to tighten them up so they don't rattle as much. 9. My Venture leaned over too far on the side stand I easily extended it by adding a wood block under the foot. 1/2" thick. 10. I added a electrical brake light switch to the right handlebar to flash tailgators and when slowing down slowly. 11. If the trunk opens too far, hitting the driver in the back. Add a 2 piece lever that pivots in the center so the top lid only opens just over center. 12. The wires were too tight under the handlebar covers so I added a longer screw and spacer to give then more room. 13. On the rear fender the black extension gets dirty and muddy. I put silicone glue on the inner underside between to painted fender and black extension to keep it clean. 14. 2nd brake light $7 Ebay 24 LEDs mount on license bracket. 15. The blue high beam indicator is hard to see if it is "on" in the daylight (I drive with my brights on ALL the time, maybe why I'm still alive?) drill a very small hole in the center so you can see white light and recover with clear tape. 16. Footpegs vibrate? Put a small rubber insulator (inner tube?) between metal parts on the fold down stops. 17. Lots of slop on gear shift and foot brake lever? Put some thin teflon inside the pivots. 18. Aluminum screening on the radiator behind the grill will keep bugs and stones from going thru or plugging the radiator. 19. MK1's: drain the front air box drain hose back to the crankcase ventilation hose with a "T". 20. Loosely packed course steel wool will keep oil from entering the air cleaner in the crankcase vent hose line. (Or keep oil level at 1/2 way mark, scarely to me on long trips) 21. Glue the YICS box seam/joint before it starts leaking. 22. Glue the 4 air box intake rubbers in place so they don't leak or turn. See the tab on under side for positioning. 23. I took a good looking leather bag and converted it into a tank bag (don't laugh it's a purse with lots of pockets). Be Careful when doing tight turns. 24. There is a battery box drain hole (left rear) that just needs a hose attached to it so if you get a leaking battery it won't drain onto the engine, electronics, & solenoid, etc. 25. Use silicone (dielectric) grease on the intake boots, carb diaphrams, & all rubber to keep them soft. DON"T DO THIS!
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1984 with 19k miles total, leaks more than it burns. After just 5,000 miles most of the inside of the air box is covered in oil. Then the carbs get soaked inside and out too. 1. Thinking about loosely putting some course steel wool in the breather tube at the multi-purpose chamber between the cylinders. This should seperate the oil from the bypass gases. 2. Then connecting the drain hose in the front of the air box to vaccuum to drain off any oil back to the engine. Any thoughts or other ideas?
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i'm getting ready to install solid mounts in my 87 vr a need to know what needs to be removed to do this. i have read the post on how to wiggel the mounts in just need to know what to do to get to that point. i asume the air box, battery and battery box, does the radiator need to be removed. need the info so i dont get something wrong.
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Here's a pic of the '06 I'm looking at buying. I'll need to transport it home in the back of my Dakota truck. Can anyone pls provide a measurement from point A to point B for me? Need to figure out if it will fit in the box or straddle the tailgate or what. Thanks
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His Mail Box, is Full !! Can sombody get him this information ?? Empty your mail box, Atlanta !!!!!
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Hopefully someone can help me out.. When ever you compose a message there is a box below your text input box full of smileys and stupid irritating happy face gits (anim gifs).. can you spell the word annoying as hell? Anyway, is there a way to NOT have this box show up or at the very least can someone kill that *&$^$^ big head one that keeps waving its arms around? Of all that I like about this forum, THIS is enough to burn my retinas.. Some people are scared of clowns.. I'm irritated by anim gifs.. help!
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How do you remove the TCI from an '86 VR. I think I have a moisture problem as it is stumbling and running like it's missing part of the time. I went through some pretty heavy thunderstorms this summer and drown the bike pretty good 3-4 times. Can't think of what else it would be. Got new plugs and the warmer the engine gets the better it runs. Do you have to remove all the front end plastic? I've removed the battery and box and it looks like the whole front of the bike has to come off to get at the TCI screws/bolts as they are somewhere underneath the battery box crossmember. Hope I'm missing something and there is an easier way...
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This is my first tech post. Maybe someone can help me. I bought a 1989 Venture Royale in July. The seller said the carbs were synched and the bike tuned. It ran great until two weeks ago. My wife and I started out on a trip, and after about 40 miles the charging system went down. I took the headlight fuse out and we barely made it back home. On the way home I noticed smoke from underneath the breather box. I found that it was the crankcase vent hoses that were disconnected. Today I removed the air box and reattached the hose.I put the box back on and when I started the bike up it wouldn't rev at all. It was like it was starving for gas. I couldn't get any rpm's without putting the choke on almost all the way. I took the box back off and removed the hoses and it still wouldn't rev. I cannot see anything that got disconnected or unplugged during the removal of the air box. I have always worked on my own bikes and can usually troubleshoot pretty well. But this has me stumped. I have already changed my exhaust collector and learned to troubleshoot my charging system thanks to the forums on this site. The shop manual with this bike gets to be very confusing. Any help would be appreciated.
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Running out of ideas. The cruise in this '86 used to work, not great, but it worked. Now it will turn on, all the lights come on-then go off with power light still on. Hit the set button and nothing happens. It's like the wire was cut. I took the switch apart and it looked good; cleaned it, and put it back together. I have done the same to the clutch switch and the brake switch. I took the instrument panel apart(to get the bug out of the speedo:rotf:) and took apart all the plugs and cleaned them and put dielctric in them. Then I did it to almost every plug on the scoot. The scoot was kept mostly indoors during it's former life and everything has been free of corrosion. I have tried to chase wires but the diagram I have(the free downloadable one here) is mostly unreadable so I am not having any luck with the wirs. I know little about electronics and get easily bogged down. I don't know how the system works but I think when I hit the set switch, a signal goes to a black box or 2(haven't a clue) which works the diaphram conected to the throttle box. I just don't know what next. Any help would be appreciated.
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My tach has always been slow on my 86. This was nothing to be very concerned about but it was always on my mind that it could be this way because of something electrical about ready to fail. What with the tach receiving its signal from number 2 coil which in turn runs it through the TCI box then on to the tach. I have always read anything on this site that was tach related in hope of pinpointing what it was that made mine run slow. I have been told that my TCI could be faulty, my #2 coil faulty, bad ground to maybe just a boggy tach. Well the search is over! After running the diagnostic check of the wiring to the TCI. NOT IT. Check of coils. NOT IT. Adding a second ground wire. NOT IT. The problem was the tach itself. I removed it from the housing to look it over and clean it using some electrical contact cleaner. My brother-in-law was here when I took it out and he said that it just looked as if it needed lubed up to free it up. He grabbed the can of Sili-kroil and began to ever so lightly lube the needle mechanism while moving it toward redline and letting it go. After five minutes of this. THAT WAS IT! It is now free as the RPM it reads. Upon further inspection it seems that on the backside of the instrument cluster box that houses the tach and speedometer, on the tachs side of it. There is a unplugged hole that looks as if it should hold a light but there is no provision for one there. Being a 86 this hole has let moisture and the elements into the tachs cluster for 22 years a very unnecessary and troublesome hole that is now plugged. More than enough time to gum up my tach. So if your tach is boggy don't rule out that all it might need is a good clean & lube.
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I recently bought a part on ebay, (Lower fairing vent Louver ),from an ebay vendor, cmstexas. The seller did not offer any shipping options other than USPS Prioity mail for $6.80 which I thought was a little expensive. But, I needed the part more than the $6.80 shipping so I bid on item anyway and won it. I paid for item and shipping via paypal and part showed up in two days very neatly packaged in a box you could have put fifty of them in. Opened the box and item is rattling around in huge box with one wrap of tiny bubble wrap, and a small piece of brown slick sided shipping paper,(But, not enough to cushion item from rattling around in box). So as soon as packaged arrived and being a dutiful E-bayer I left, as e-bay request Honest feedback which read. Positive option "Item arrived quickly and was as described but shipping expensive. " next day, today....................................... I get E-bay e-mail from this seller four paragraphs chewing me out because I complained about his shipping charge amoung other things he ranted about: "Shipping cost was clearly stated in listing" Yes it was but, seller did not offer any less expensive shipping options. I've been riding for the last 10k miles with this part missing I would not have had a problem waiting an extra day or so for cheaper shipping cost. "With the cost of packageing materials he lost money" :fiddle::fiddle: I don't doubt it shipping a 6 ounce item in a 30 pound box, I don't know what he paid for the box, roll of brown shipping paper and the bubble wrap but I use free newspaper which works just as good, I've shipped the same item with no problems in an padded envelope. for a fraction of the shipping cost. My business experience tells me that if he is losing money doing business, maybe he should rethink the way he is doing business. :Im not listening to:Im not listening to
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I bought a 2009 Harley Electra Glide Ultra Classic. I’m tired of waiting for EFI and ABS so I bit the bullet and forked out the big bucks. I pick it up tomorrow morning. I’m going to miss the Venture but I think I will come to love the new ride also. The 09’s are completely new with the exception of the 96 cubic inch V-Twin. I hope you folks won’t hold it against me and I will still be able to ride to the meet & eats, I have come to enjoy eating and talking with good people. In the mean time I have a few used and one new in the box accessories and parts for sale if anyone is interested. New in the box K&N Air Filters…..$50.00. SOLD TO ECK Clymer’s Service Manual good for 1999 to present for 2nd Gen’s…..$10.00 SOLD TO BOOMER Hopnel Trunk Bib. This bib has the holes in it for the Trunk Rack….$20.00 SOLD TO PONCH Baron’s 1 ½” Risers….$35.00 SOLD TO SARGES46 Tri-Star Backoff XP with Dual Load Equalizers….$30.00 SOLD TO R12GUY Dossier Venture Backrest, this one has about a 3/16 inch rip on the top which has been glued back down and is hardle noticeable…..$40.00 SOLD TO MICK0 Royal Star/Venture brake and clutch covers…..$15.00 SOLD TO PONCH The buyer also pays shipping or can pick them up. If you are interested and want pictures of any item just shoot me an email and I will send pics to you. Still looking forward to the PA meet & eat this Saturday if you let me?
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Well, unless I am doing something terribly wrong in my calculations, I think I am getting about 8% better fuel economy since I installed my K and N air filters 3 weeks ago. Here is what I found happening. I run a garmin zumo 550, which has a fuel gauge, that strictly clocks mileage. You input how many KM per tank you get, and when you get to 30 miles (48 KM)left of that amount, it gives you a warning, and then shows you the closest 5 gas stations. Pretty neat eh? Anyways, I digress. Normally, I have the KM per tank set at 280. So normally, this is the order of events. Around 210 km, my fuel warning light on the BIKE blinks, and goes to fuel reserve count up, 20 km later, I have to switch to reserve, and just about that time, my zumo tells me that I am on reserve. But about 3 tanks ago, I noticed something strange, and thought it was just a fluke. The first indication I get about low fuel, came from my zumo, which is usually last. about 10 k later, my fuel light blinked on the bike. This has been the case for the last 3 tanks. From the numbers both on the GPS and the trip meters on the bike, I seem to be getting about 25 km more approx per tank, or per fill up. Now, there have been no major changes in driving, either style or substance. Have any others here found these kinds of gains? If so, I wish I had known, I would have changed my filters much earlier. No other mods have been done recently, except a chrome brake pedal, chrome oil reserve cover, and chrome billet oil cap. (Do you think chrome gives you better fuel mileage? Hmmmm....) Anyways, also for anyone thinking of changing to K & N filters, I highly reccommend it. I have had K&N in all my cars so far, and saves you tons of $$, mostly from the high cost of replacing paper filters, but now apparently from increased fuel mileage, and let's face it, with the price of gas now, every little bit helps. Oh, and for those who may have never changed their air filters before, let me give you a little bit of advice. Make sure if you are going to K&N that you read all of the instruction, IN THE K&N box. Or, you can do what I did, read below... 1) Remove the lower cowling 2) Unbolt the air boxes (both sides) 3) Disconnect the breather tube, and carb hose 4) Remove 5 screws holding both sides of the air box together (both sides) 5) Remove 2 screws from air filter 6) Remove air filter (both sides) 7) Replace air filter (both sides) 8) Replace 2 screws holding air filter to air box 9) Replace 5 screws holding air box together 10) Bolt Airboxes back on bike 11) Re-attach the air intake hose, and carb hose 12) Replace the lower cowling 13) Put relatively new air filters back in K&N box 14) Discover warning sheet stressing importance of installing the 2 rubber gaskets that came with the K&N filters to seal the filters to the air boxes. 15) Find gaskets still in K&N box start again at 1 So there ya go, sometimes reading all the instructions is the way to go!!
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I have a friend looking for a CDI box for an 87' Venture. I found one for a 1200 on Ebay, and several parts on the classifieds here but he isn't sure or not if it will work. Anyone have an old one laying around to sell or know if the 1200 one will work? I'm not too familiar with the 1st Gens. Thanks, Curt
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OK folks...I had a request that members be allowed to hide certain topic areas from the list of forums. I THINK I finally have a custom modification that allows you to do that. In other words, lets say that you don't want the topic area "Jokes" to show up. You can hide that from the list of forums on the main forum page. To do so, just go to your UserCP and then click on "Edit Options" in the left menu. Scroll down and you should find a box where you can select topic areas to hide and then another box to exclude certain forums from "Get new Posts" and etc.
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I am brand new, and thanks to Lonestarmedic I have found a great group to talk about my project. I purchased a 87 VR in fair condition, (runs good, looks bad) but the prior owner tried to rewire the lighting and now nothing works, I have the tech manual on disk and all the wiring diagrams. The problem is that he cut and tried to splice everything instead of following where they went. Am I going to have to remove all tape from everything and trace from each light to the fuse box, or is it easier to buy a new wiring harness? I am not as worried about asthetics as I want to get it legal so that my Duramax can get a rest on good sunny days. Thanks in advance
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Hi All, I just finished replacing my TID Unit, which went better than I expected. Anyway, now the emergency flashers and turn signals don't work. The front signal lights are on but don't "blink". The fuses all look ok. I did accidentally arc across the device that is hanging off the left side of the battery box. (I don't know what it is called) Everything else seems to be working fine. Any ideas? Thanks for your help. Scott -
After much delibration I just couldn't see spending all that money for the yamaha air box covers, so I tried something else. Got $28 in it, what do you think? -
Where do these wires go????
Coach posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I took off all the fairing and removed the TCI box. Put the TCI box back in about 3 weeks later and now I have these wires that I can't remember where they go. They are on the left side of the bike. Help!!!!! Thanks Coach Ron
