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rhncue

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Everything posted by rhncue

  1. rhncue
    The stator does not revolve. It is stationary and fits over the rotor with the magnets in it and it is what revolves. When the motor isn't fitted with the mod the oil only runs out and down onto to bottom half of the stator while the engine is running. This oil, although hot. still has a cooling affect on the parts of the stator that it comes into contact with. This is how I am sure that this is an 83 and has not had the mod done. By the top half overheating, the varnish on the coils gets to hot, melts and lets the bare wires make contact. That is what is now shorted. I've seen the exact thing to many times on 83s. Dick
  2. rhncue
    It's not so much the amount of time the stator is installed but how many hours the engine has run. Never-the-less, 10,000 miles is not much. With this said, the first thing that stood clearly out was that the coils are well overheated. Even though the pictures are laying sideways you can clearly see what part of the Stator was on top and what part was on bottom. This is caused by lack of cooling oil being sprayed onto the stator. All it is getting is what is running down on the bottom half of the stator from the hole in the end of the crankshaft. You probably have an 83 as after that model this problem was repaired. A kit was sold with a bent wire and a plate that attaches to the crankshaft and then slings the oil more efficiently over the entire stator. Dick
  3. rhncue
    Hello, I changed my location over 9 years ago. I may have been the first as I did it so that I could much more easily get to it after mine had went bad. I belonged to the Venturerers then and did a write up. I've never had a problem with it since. Dick
  4. rhncue
    The guy selling them is: Indian Motorcycle Corp 116 Battleground Rd Kings Mountain, NC 28086 United States I've got his e-mail address also but have to look it up if interested. he's real easy to do business with. Dick
  5. rhncue
    I must be getting mine from the same place as you as I asked the seller about plugs and he sold me whats needed for an additional 5.00. The brand new reg/rec was 36.00, the connections were 5.00 and s/h was 5.50. So for 46.50 I got a new and better reg for what a used standard reg would cost on e-bay. I'm one happy camper and can't hardly wait until it arrives. Thanks for the info folks. Now I've got to get busy doing some rewiring. Dick
  6. rhncue
    WOW dude! You've really taken care of business. Very good ideas and implementations. I'm going to print out this reply and get busy doing some converting. Dick
  7. rhncue
    Any locksmith in the world should have no problem resetting the pins to be the same as the ignition. I've changed my own on a number of locks. Dick
  8. rhncue
    Dealers push for those type fees and charges so as to keep the one time buyer from bidding up the price. In the Midwest where you have some dry counties the bootleggers campaign to keep those laws in effect so that they can stay in business. Dick
  9. rhncue
    Sweet!!! This is what I assumed with the red and black wires but I wasn't sure about the brown. I can hardly wait until I receive the new unit. Dick
  10. rhncue
    Well, I'm back again. Yesterday I pulled the ign. switch, took it apart cleaning and lightly sanding the contacts, reversed the contact arm and put back together. It still overcharged at times. I pulled the reg. and put in a spare that I didn't know if it worked correctly or not. With the second reg. There was no charging what so ever so just now I changed back to the original and the bike will now charge again but still has those spikes. I checked with a DMM and when it spikes the voltage goes to over 18 V. at 2000 rpm. I ordered a Shindegen reg/rec and will go from there. I haven't been riding the bike since this stuff started occurring. I have only been starting for testing once I found that I had a problem. I'm just hoping no other damage has occurred to the bike yet. Electronics are expensive on these dudes. Dick
  11. rhncue
    Hey Squeeze, it looks like I'm about to aquire a Shindegen FH012aa regulator. On the wiring it appears that there are only 2 wires running from the unit to the ign or battery. 1 red and 1 black. On the Venture there are 2 red, 2 black and a brown. Is the reason for the 2 red and black the same as the singles from the Shindegan but only heavier. There also is no brown wire. At any rate, my question is, where and how are these 2 wires connected to the bike so that it does it's job? I read some of the different explanations on using one of these and they seem to say to run directly to the battery. I thought that maybe you could clear up these questions as you are knowledgable on the Venture and the V-Max both. Thanks, Dick
  12. rhncue
    Thanks. I figured that would be the way to do it but there is a pretty good mess of wires and cables in there. I'll probably end up pulling the top triple tree as I need to adjust those bearings anyway. Thanks for your insight. Dick
  13. rhncue
    The rec/reg could be bad also but I'm pretty sure the ign. switch is the culprit. Yesterday I strted the bike and all was normal but when I wiggled the ign. key the volt meter would go to it's maximum. If I would wiggle it some more it would drop back down to normal. I repeated this scenario about 3 times. This has me believing the ign switch needs some work. Once I take care of the ign, switch, if need be, the reg/rec would be the next item changed. I'll probably check the diodes in the rectifier before I pull the switch as the switch looks like it's going to be a little difficult to pull. Dick
  14. rhncue
    Has anyone removed/replaced the ignition switch on one of these beasts? Just wondering if there was an easier way to get the switch out to work on other than taking the whole front end apart? It looks like two recessed 10 mm bolts hold it on but they look very difficult to get to. Just thought someone found an easier way to remove with a long extension or something. Never hurts to ask. Dick
  15. rhncue
    Well, it looks like I'm making headway. It looks very much like it could be a bad ignition switch. Although I still haven't had a chance to check out the entire system I did start the engine and observe the volt meter. All was normal. I then wiggled the key in the ignition and the volts once again went wild. I wiggled a little more and it dropped back to normal. I went through this scenario about 3 times with the same results. Although now I'm pretty sure it is the switch, in a short while I'll have time to check out the other possible causes. Thanks for the help and a special thanks to Mike Brood as he e-mailed me a with a number of things that could cause the problem and then he stated that it most likely was the ignition switch. Dead on. Dick
  16. rhncue
    I haven't had a chance to go out and check anything yet but I'll give a little more background information. A year or so ago the charging quit so I bought a new stator. When I went to install I found my stator was good and that the trouble was the plug that runs from the regulator to the ignition had melted. I had already soldered the wires from the stator to the rectifiers some time before this incident. I never had a new plug so I cut off the plug and soldered the wires going to the switch also. I have an Odyssey battery installed and the connections are very tight. I also have #2 gauge wire installed for the battery cables. I'll need to check the negative grounding point to insure it is tight as I seldom look at that connection. Now what occurred last night was definitely a large increase of voltage to the system. The lights got very bright, even at idle it was out of control. I would hate to burn up all of the electronics on the bike because of this spike in voltage and now I'm rather scared to go any distance for fear of it recurring while I'm a distance from my shop. I won't be able to check it out till later this afternoon and then I'll get back to the forum. Thanks, Dick
  17. rhncue
    My charging has been rather erratic lately. Some times it seems to be barely charging and other times the needle is right up by the line at 14 volts or so. Often it is right around 14 volts at idle. A few days ago the needle went as far into the charge zone that it could go but settled bake down after a few seconds. Tonight, while pulling away from a red light, the dash lights and head light got extra bright all of a sudden. I looked at the volt meter and it was as far as it could go. I pulled to the side of the highway and turned off the engine. I then restarted and it did the same thing. This happened 5 or 6 times. A couple of times it would drop back where it was supposed to be and then suddenly do it again. After 6 or 7 times it finally mellowed out and acted like it is supposed to. Do you people feel that the regulator is going out or maybe a grounding issue. Back in the 60s I had a 49 Harley that did this same thing but after just a few seconds it blew out all of my bulbs. That time it turned out to be the battery ground was not tight enough. That old bike had a 6 volt DC generator and a regulator just like a car. With this system the regulator is ground to the frame itself plus I read yesterday or the day before where someone said that these alternators don't charge at idle but only once past 2000 rpm. I think tonight I proved that theory wrong. OK who's got ideas? Dick
  18. rhncue
    It's a Stant #13758 or you can cross reference to another brand. "has anyone here used a non-OEM cap on their 1st gen?" The question should be "Has anyone ever used a OEM radiator cap?" Dick
  19. rhncue
    This is all absolutely true but the problem is that the system barely puts out enough energy to sustain the requirements of the bike itself. Add a few extra lights or other things that use energy and the system cannot keep up. I have two rear bumpers that had 18 conventional lights with 2 bulbs each and when I would use the two driving lights up front, I would have to turn the bumper lights off or the battery starts discharging as I drive. A couple of weeks ago I changed all of the running lights on the bumpers to LEDs and now I can use them and the driving lights at the same time. I wish there were a lot of other items I could change so easily to get more juice so that I could add more toys such as more lights, heated gloves or maybe vest, GPS and such. Dick
  20. rhncue
    Sounds like intake valve seal to me. Valve guide/seals show most smoke during higher vacuum periods (idle and deceleration). Dick
  21. rhncue
    Although a different brand, mine is very similar to the bottom one in your post. I have used mine dozens of times at full height with no adverse problems. The first 2 or 3 times that I used it I strapped the bike down with the straps that came with it and put out the extensions as I was worried about stability. Once I used it a few times and knew where to place the stand under the bike for best balance I became much more confident and quit using those safeguards altogether. Now I just slide the stand under and jack up the bike. I rest the bike on the pipes and have not experienced any problems or damage. I have used it on a 83 Royal, an 81 XS11 and a 83 1100 kaw. Dick
  22. rhncue
    I find nothing wrong with a standard motorcycle lift that only costs around 60 to 80 bucks, will raise the bike around 15 inches and just rolls away when job is finished. If I had plenty of room I would build a permanent one to drive onto but I don't so I am happy with the portable lift I use now. A friend of mine, who is a motorcycle mechanic, has a lift which you drive onto about a foot or foot and a half tall which then can be raised to around 3 1/2 or 4 feet under power but it takes to much space and way to much money for me. Dick
  23. rhncue
    You need to state what year as they are different from 83 through 85 to 86 on. Dick
  24. rhncue
    I've got two bumpers on mine, one around bags and one around trunk. There are 18 incandescent lights with two bulbs each on these bars. That's 36 extra lights and when used with my driving lights the battery would slowly discharge. Last week I changed the 18 lights for new LED lights with bulbs pper light. Now the gauge doesn't move when flipping on the lights. They are brighter and use hardly any juice at all. I just went out and took these pictures and they didn't turn out as well as I thought they would. file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/COMPAQ%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.pnghttp://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/DSC_0001-17.jpg http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/DSC_0002-15.jpg Dick
  25. rhncue
    Those mounting brackets are for an 83 to 85 Venture. Dick
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