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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. RedRider
    Martin Fabrication has 30" extension cables available with the waterproof connections. RR
  2. RedRider
    Agreed. I would love that too. (With an additional set of HIDs up there, I could vaporize anything that got in my way.) Actually, I would replace the PAR36s with the HIDs and move the MF HIDs to the KLR. RR
  3. RedRider
    My ballast went south after a month or so. I emailed back and forth to Scott, ultimately returned it, he replaced it under warranty. Now, I have a switch/relay to start the light after the bike is running. Same as with the HID running lights (although they are not CCC lights). I believe the CCC lights are what you pay for them - cheap. However, with the switch in place, it may last thru the year. RR
  4. RedRider
    These are 35W each lights. Therefore, they draw 3 amps each. I am still running the stock stator. The headlight also pulls 35W. However, that is less than the stock headlight of 55W (I think) so I get some savings there. If I run all 3 HID lights without the standard running lights, it actually pulls less power than the previous standard head/running lights. I have a volt meter on the bike (LED, not digital) and it displays green with all lights blazing - at high idle (with choke on). RR
  5. RedRider
    Both the switches and the fork lights are from Martin Fabrication (Google is your friend). If you have the chrome trim around your front fender, the bracket fits perfectly between the fender and the trim. In fact, there is a spacer in between that is replaced by the mounting bracket. Almost like it was made for it. The lights are easy to install, however, mounting the other stuff is kind of a pain. Each side has its own ballast/igniter (one unit about the size of a pack of smokes) that need mounted in the fairing. They both fit nicely in the throttle side with some double sided tape. You will need to get the extension wiring since the stock wiring is only about 20 inches. MF has a 30" extention (one for each) even though it does not show up on their website - you have to ask. I know how bright the headlight is at night on the road. Really looking forward to the retina searing lumens being thrown down the street. RR
  6. RedRider
    I have completed the installation of an HID headlight and a pair of Martin Fabrication HID running lights. Attached are some pics when off, when on, and the switches (on and off). I added a switch for the headlight since it dies during starting (voltage drop will not keep the HID burning). Am looking forward to burning a hole through the darkness soon. Need to get at least another 6 inches of snow melted off the back drive though so I can get the bike out of the shop. C'mon Spring!!! RR
  7. RedRider
    Had some of this around the house. Only use it to bait mouse traps. Jif Crunchy is the only way. RR
  8. RedRider
    Jeff, Pictures are required .... of the dog too. Good dog. RR
  9. RedRider
    Had a different bike with a slotted hole cover like that. Put a quarter in a set of ViceGrips and it worked great. RR
  10. RedRider
    Well done. Thank you for your service to the community. As a thought ... Have you considered doing a first aid presentation at a VR gathering? Such as Don's MD or the Cody Rally? Just simple basics. What to pack for a first aid kit and how to use it. How to get a bug out of the eye. Cuts, road rash, shock prevention, etc. Not sure how deep to go. But you get the idea. Thanks again. RR
  11. RedRider
    Playing basketball. RR
  12. RedRider
    Sat on the Tenere'. As of now, that will be my next bike. Absolutely fantastic. However, still have 4 kids in, or about to enter, college. New bikes will need to wait. Ducati had some really fine looking ..... umm... bikes. Agree'd, nothing overly special in the Honda booth other than the Cobra customs. They were really amazingly cool. My boys had a great time looking at all the motorcycle pron. RR
  13. RedRider
    Dave, The carbs aren't that hard. There will be essentially no adjustments (that's the hard part without the experience or tools). This is simply take them off, take them apart, clean, put them back together the same way they came apart, reinstall, ride. RR
  14. RedRider
    Give us a few additional pieces of info and we can likely diagnose this issue. 1) Where exactly is this drip coming from? Front of engine, mid engine, ... 2) What is the fluid? Oil, something like ATF, antifreeze,... 3) Have you recently done/had an oil change? 4) What is the oil fill height in the window? Likely not a big deal (unless it is the shock - not a big deal, just expensive). Let us know and we will be glad to help. RR
  15. RedRider
    Clogged low speed jet. You will need to take the carbs off and take them apart. No special tools except needing a small diameter wire. If you have stranded wiring, use a single strand. Guitar string (small one); sometimes you can use the wire in a twist tie; you get the idea. Take it apart, look at the jet (cylinder that needle goes into), poke and clean every orific. This should take care of the 'no idle' issue. While you have it apart, check the condition of your carb boots. Both sets - airbox to carbs and carbs to cylinders (if they have them on this bike). Shouldn't take too long to do. May require a few gaskets for the float bowls, but often in the older models you can reuse them if they don't tear. Good luck. RR
  16. RedRider

    Beartooth

    RedRider replied to phill12's topic in Watering Hole

    Opens fine for me (Running IE7). Great video. Bothered me when you are going around corners 'cause I can't see thru them. Keep feeling like I'm going off the edge. Need to do that road. Thanks for posting. RR
  17. RedRider
    OK, who's goin' other than me and two of my boys? We will be there about noon. I am tall and, ...ahem... big bones, one son is just as tall and thin, the other son is about 6 foot and thin. May be an elderly gentleman (my Dad) with us also. If you see us, stop and say hello. Is it spring yet? RR
  18. RedRider
    There is a Harley rear light bracket that looks really nice and helps light up the tail. Someone should have pics (or I could go out into the garage and take a pic - Naaahhh, it -10F out there). The driving light addition requires a new bar. It will add a pair of PAR32 (35W ea) driving lights. Bib and Chrome ignition cover - hit Ebay. Saw the cover on there the other day. RR
  19. RedRider
    This is getting a lot of play on the LD websites. The LD guys have a tendency to add lots of electrical stuff to their rides. This is a really interesting product (just bought a fuzeblock www.fuzeblocks.com) that I was made aware of a little too late. RR
  20. RedRider
    This was made more confusing a couple of years ago when Yamaha decided to split their marketing into STAR and YAMAHA branding. The YAMAHA was kept for the off road products (and ATVs, PWC, Snowmobiles) while STAR was the on road motorcycle brand. Nothing changed with the bikes other than the badge. Therefore, a Yamaha Royal Star Venture and a Star Royal Star Venture are the same thing. The bike you have is the same from 1999 to present day models. The only major difference is the paint scheme. At some point, they started adding a pillowtop seat, some different chrome pieces on the tank, and a few other cosmetic items. However, all the functional components are identical. OK, since you are an auto tech, you will likely be doing your own maintenance. Good - you are in the right forum. Some items you will like to know: 1) Look in the classifieds for the CarbonOne Lift Adapter. Buy one (adding the legs is nice). Accept no substitute. It will make your life less complicated with this heavy bike on a lift. 2) Get some Honda Moly60 lubricant. Purchase from the Honda car dealer - it is less expensive than purchasing thru the bike dealer. You will need this for drive pins and splines which are notoriously dry. 3) Unless you have money to spend, don't ask us about farkles. We are like the government and really like spending other people's money. 4) There are cross references in the tech sections for oil filters. No need to pay top $ to Mama Yama. 5) Search for threads on oil selection, don't ask the question in a new thread. There are at least 100 threads on here and no one agrees. Just make sure the circle on the back of the jug does not have 'Energy Conserving' in the outer ring. 6) Attend a regional Maintenance Day. You will learn a lot about your bike at one of these. 7) If you have the stock Brickstone tires, look forward to when they start to wear out. You will once again have the opportunity to ride a new (feeling) bike when you put good skins one. Avon Venoms, Dunlop Elite3, and Michelin Commanders seem to be the tires of choice. Again, search for threads. There are 100s of them about tires also. 8) Pay your $12 to become a full member here. It will pay off in spades. 9) There are a couple of easy geometry changes that can be made to improve low speed handling. Either changing out the dogbones which raises the rear about an inch, lowering the front about an inch, or a skinnier front tire. Only do one of these. 10) Don't hesitate to ask questions. We are here to harrass and help - whichever is appropriate for the request. 11) Review #8. This is the best advice in this posting. Welcome to the family. RR
  21. RedRider
    I'm not sure of the individual switch cost. $12 seems to stick in my head, but that could be wrong. I will likely have an itemized invoice once they arrive. I will let you know. RR
  22. RedRider
    I have on order, soon to arrive, a set of HID driving lights from Martin Fabrication. Combined with the (newly replaced) HID headlight from Canadian Custom Cruisers, this should create a light path that will sear the retinas out of Bambi!! Will likely need to turn off my standard driving lights when these beasts fire up, but that's OK. The standard driving lights would just be illuminated bug catchers compared to the (claimed) light output of the HIDs. May need to install the stator upgrade next winter. Martin Fab also has a really cool waterproof switch for turning on these lights. I bought two switches so I can turn on/off the HID headlight also. If the HID headlight is on when you start the bike, it often goes off and doesn't come back on. Will post pics once they are installed. I'm sooooo ready for spring. http://www.martinfabrication.com/Martin_Fabrication/Motorcycle_Driving_LIghts.html Not the most user friendly website, but the owner seems to be a good guy. RR
  23. RedRider
    Aren't the "Jeff's" maning the dunk tank this year.. :rotfl: This 'Jeff' will only be manning beer and wrenches. RR
  24. RedRider
    Don't be a'feard, sir noob. These are pretty easy to work on and pretty difficult to damage. 1) Cleaning. Just wipe them clean with a clean cloth or shop towel. 2) Wipe enough Moly60 to mostly fill the splines in the hub. That will be enough without also filling the splines on the wheel. Recommend to wear some throw away gloves 'cuz the Moly60 is tough to get off. 3) You don't need to remove the pumpkin to get at the splines. Just remove the wheel and they are right there. However, if you really want to lube everything up right: a) Remove the wheel hub and lube the pins. If you haven't done this, they are likely bone dry. There is a snap ring on the top of the hub that needs removed before you can pull the hub off. b) Drop the pumpkin and lube the drive shaft splines. If you are not overly confident in your mechanical abilities, this can likely wait until a Maintenance Day. It isn't difficult once you know the trick of getting the drive shaft back in. Without knowing the trick, it is a long, frustrating job. Once you are done with the above, put some miles on that baby. It's not broken in yet. RR
  25. RedRider

    Moly 60.

    RedRider replied to ken's topic in Watering Hole

    Moly60 on hub pins, splines, and drive shaft splines. RR
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