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bongobobny

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Everything posted by bongobobny

  1. PM sent...
  2. They are the same guard except the MK2 ones have a bracket welded to them...
  3. No, the amount of current the horn draws would fry the horn switch contacts in no time...
  4. I already gots a pair...
  5. Change plugs!!! Drain carbs and observe what comes out. Use seafoam. I kinda doubt that it is anything else to just go bad from setting. These engines are darn near bullet proof...
  6. Reiny, how far the pads are from the rotor is a function of runout. The worse the runout, the farther from the rotors the pads will be. If you are right against the rotors then your run out should be minimal, a very good thing. There are no springs or negative pressure to retract the pistons, just the rotor going round and round... PS I use a big ole screwdriver with some hair growing on it to spread my pads. Just even and slow force does it every time. Just make sure your master wasn't topped of before spreading the pads as you will force fluid out of the master!
  7. I guess the horn was being a "Bad Boy" Carl...
  8. Uhhh, the horn switch switches GROUND on and off. Where are ylou getting the =12 volts for the primary? Make sure you are aplying the switched ground lead from the stock horn, and that the horn switch isn't shorted.
  9. bongobobny

    eBay

    Yay!! I now own a pair of Gold MK2 saddlebags!!!
  10. Yah! you need the Mk2 crash bars up front, and then they should mount...
  11. I agree, and it is a nice looking rig! Reserve still not met. If anyone buys, feel free to stop by on your way thru!
  12. bongobobny

    eBay

    OK, I'm bidding on a left and right saddlebag,Gold in color, for MK2 and they end today. Seller is davyjoneslocker... I WANT those bags!!!
  13. I'll take the turn signal and the chrome air inlet. Those are small enough and light enough to be able to go USPS. PM me with address to send money.
  14. I'll take 2 please!
  15. ...or from Rick at Buckeye Performance. Rick is a member and gives 20% discount to Venturerider members. I know he has them in stock!
  16. That's OK, I bought a caliper off ebay a couple of years ago that someone tried unsuccessfully to rebuild. He put the pistons back in backwards!! Sheared every last seal...
  17. Just for some technical info, the inner seal, the wider one, is the actual seal. The outer one, the thinner one, is actually a wiper to wipe off any brake fluid that may have gotten past he seal on the excursion out, and to wipe off any exterior contamination on the way back in...
  18. The difference is between the left and right calipers. One is a 7M (cm diameter I believe) piston and the other is an 8M piston, same as the rear. Sorry, I can't remember which is which, but after rebuilding 3 complete sets of calipers this winter, I haqve to agree, BIG BUX! You need 2 sets per caliper as the kit only does 1/2 of the caliper, 2 pistons. The number is stamped on the center of the piston, either 7M or 8M, and is quite apparent by the size difference. Use compressed air to get the pistons out before disassembling. Also, put a thin piece of metal or wood between the halves before putting air to the calipers to prevent just one of the pistons from popping out before the others have had a chance to come out. I used a couple of paint stir sticke, then just 1 and finally none to get the pistons as far out as possible. You will want to clean and polish each piston to minimumize the possibility of a leak as well as insure smooth operation. I used a 6 in bench buffer or grinder with a buffing wheel attached. Also, you will find would have to get maybe $50 for the pair plus shipping. The seals were inspected with a 5X eye loupe and selected from all the old seals after being cleaned up. Dylanders were honed and pistons polished, but were found with slight scratches on the pistons but work fine with air anyways...
  19. When I bought my chrome one a little over a year ago it cost me around $45. I just got the latest JC Whitney catalog and they now go for $70!!!!!
  20. I owned 5 "B's", all roadsters and all true MG's not those Leiland Motors wannabe's. The GT I don't think came out until the very late 60's and were only made for a few years. Yes, well worth restoring, and a blast to drive. I also had a Austin Healy 3000 MK II that I started restoring but ran out of funds. I bought it for $300 in the early 70's. Never should have parted with it...
  21. I stalled at 6 lbs and need to gewt back on track. Goal is 25...
  22. Fleabay, or a pair of Jardines...
  23. #3...
  24. Two days nin the making...
  25. Well, technically I DID put my foot down, except the point of no returncame before my toes touched the ground... Moral of the story, never stop sideways on an incline!
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