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Seaking

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Everything posted by Seaking

  1. You wouldn't have a 'dummies' guide to this procedure do you? I'm able to get my carbs synchronised in the traditional manner with 4 hoses and adjusting the required screws under the tank but not sure how to go about this with the pilot screws.. Thanks in advance..
  2. Cool, these pilot screws, where are they located? How do you access them (pardon my ignorance but this sounds interesting to learn.. ) Cheers
  3. I have two of his seats (pillow seat and not pillow seat) so I let my buddies test drive the one I'm not using and well suffice to say he's getting some seats soon
  4. A lot of good comments based on various personal opinions.. however my primary purpose of installing this mod is so I don't have the flexing of the bars when I press my feet against the pegs when I'm riding.. sorta gives me the willies that it might flex outwards when I put my weight against it.. When I ride, I've got my legs stretched out on the boards, with my toes resting on the pegs, when I need to sit up right and proper I push against the pegs which flexes the bars forward.. I'm going to be taking the advance rider's course this spring as I believe they're making all instructors take it anyway.. what did you do for putting plastic guards on over the chrome to protect them?
  5. I just got my clamps in and will be installing this mod on this winter. My buddy spun the bike out at a construction site and what a mess it made of his bike.. he hit a pot hole, his foot slipped on the dirt and the hand dumped the throttle and spun the bike out against that guard.. In this case, if he had the stiffener installed he would have had less damage.. The weak part of this mod, where it bolts to the floor board support should shear off if you hit something hard enough to cause catastrophic damage.. You're only looking to add 'stiffness' support to the guards, not reinforce them.. But to each his own.. I'm using small enough bolts to do the job but still be able to come apart should the worse ever happen. just my opinion..
  6. its all a conspiracy, isn't it? "Special blend ratio formula" this and that.. regardless of how some of these 'urban legends' pop up, it's good to know some people out there know the difference and can edumacate us lesser drolls..
  7. I've had mechs tell me that before.. once you go Synth you can't go Dino.. however, one of my bikes had gone back and forth without any noticeable worries on it.. I did ask other knowledgeable mechs and the most I ever got was don't mix the two oils.. either have a full load of synth or a full load of Dino..
  8. Gees... someone is getting hurt where they sit paying $30 a large jug.. needless to say I'll be riding through PA and getting my oil changes there LOL..
  9. Can you 'safely' switch back and forth from Synth and Dyno lubes without munging up the engine? I've got a jug of Synth T6 to try in the spring.. Are you guys getting the litre bottles for 10 bucks or the big jugs for that price?
  10. Well that was fortuitous.. I had checked this info out this morning before heading out on errands and had stopped by the Crappy Tire store which I had seen the Rotella T bottles.. but instead of the bottle I had listed they had the T6 bottles.. OOooh I remember someone saying T6 and something something JASMO ... JASASMO.. JASO MA !! And lookit.. I'm now home with my new bottle of the good stuff.. at $30 a big jug.. I'll have to wait till spring to find out how well it works though.. Thanks all for the info!
  11. yes, but I won't be filling up the local landfill (or ditch) with so many Fram filters.. that is after I purchase the $3,000 ultra sonic cleaner used to clean out these metal filters.. ? $5 bucks now... every 3,000 miles... or.... Hmm Math never good here... Its a nifty keen idea but as you said, but for that price? ouch
  12. ergh could explain why mine smelled different after going synthetic and 35,000 miles on the bike.. What the bottle look like for the dino styled stuff? (what weight is appropriate)
  13. I've reading through the articles again about engine oils and seen a lot of people using the Shell Rotella oil.. I recently found some supply in the local area and yeah, what a much better price than AMSOIL by far! to say the least.. However, so many different types and variations up here.. Attached photo shows two jugs, my inclination is that the left bottle, blue is the one to get? The is another bottle, T SB on it.. (syn blend?) available.. With 33,500 miles on the bike last summer alone and doing oil changed every 3 to 5,000 miles, I'm looking to keep my bike in shape yet save a few coins.. AMSOIL wasn't the way to go.. ouch.. $20 a litre..
  14. I had a couple of old timers and mechanics tell me this one which I applied a few years back and found to make a difference in my tire milegage.. Take the bike down the highway at normal speeds at mid day on a hot day.. run it for a while, get things nice and heated up.. if you typically do 60 or 70 (or more) then keep that speed.. Then pull over as quickly and safely as you can, get off the bike and feel the temps between the tire and the hot pavement.. The old rule is that your tire should not be any hotter than the pavement.. The going is that if your pressure is too low, you end up with a lot of flex in the tire, causing friction = heat.. so if you're booting it down the highway on low tires, they'll heat up a lot.. If your tires are properly inflated, they should not be any hotter than the pavement on a hot mid day.. Kinda 'odd" and unscientific but I go by that to some level.. I used to run my tires at the bike's manufacturer's recommended pressures, and go through tires like there was no tomorrow.. gets quite expensive to say the least.. It was explained also that the recommended pressures were for a "typical 160 lbs rider".. uh huh.. Once I was shown this little process, I was able to extend the life of my tires by a huge margin.. However, it was pointed out to me by a sage wise old man that I should be careful not to exceed the side wall pressure indicated on the tire itself.. I apply this rule of thumb on all new brand tires I throw on the bike and it works well.. I have a set of E3s on the bike now, my second set since getting the bike.. the first set were killed off prematurely by a loose steering neck that wobbled out the front tire and the rear got cut just before going to change out the front tire.. So both new tires were put on last June 09.. I would daresay I have over 15 to 20,000 miles on them? (I put 33,500 miles on the bike last riding season and changed tires earlier than mid way) But that's what works for me.. your mileage may vary..
  15. Salut Louis, you could try your local NAPA store to see if they have something similar to the FOG LAMPS Wagner 4415A.. this the only part number I have on hand but these are for the AMBER ones.. I may be picking up a pair of these this year as my headlight over powers my highway lights, and the amber colour might be slightly more attention getting (more noticeable to cagers) than just three blobs of white light.. I noticed them more when I saw them on another bike.. But Wagners spots or floods can be found at NAPA for under $10... Cheers
  16. Well all of this did put a chill in my spine.. I'd been running 40 front and 42 rear for the longest of time but now I'm remembering the Goldwinger who came off his bike at 60 mph because he said his front tire blew and it was an E3 and he was quite the large fellah.. I'm wondering if he might have over inflated his tire to cause a premature failure.. Acceptable risk on a bike is dangerous considerations.. I'll have to relook my pressure situation in the spring.. HMMMMMM
  17. interesting thread about the carb heaters and while my bike is currently open in that same area whilst waiting for the signal flash relay to come in ($24 from Maine yay), this seems like a decent mod to do, why not? I tried finding the threads about the carb heaters.. I recall reading somewhere that you don't want to run with them "OFF" in certain conditions.. and at the time of reading I think I remembered that I actually did ride in those conditions.. Seems is if it's cold enough to need electric heat on the hands, the carbs needed it too? Not sure, can't remember.. What's the verdict about this? I found some nice wrap around grip heaters that would be simple to add on and remove for the bike but ya know.. what's the story.. ? Cheers
  18. Not doubting your word on what the tire label says, I always thought it WAS 42 on the rear.. ouch.. I take my tire gauges in to the base and have them calibrated at the pneumatics shop once in a while and they are holding up well.. Thanks for the heads up.
  19. Remember, the quoted pressures are meant for a 160 lbs rider and his / her 160 lbs passenger.. When you look around, how many wee people do you see in an average day? Being of a, ahem, bigger size, I run my E3s at 40 psi front and 42 rear.. I got excellent miles off the last set and even nicer miles off the 2nd set..
  20. I'd seen that relay as well for the 4ways up in the fairing but on the signal relay I have it shows a weird something about the 4 ways also.. so odd
  21. I'm guessing that if there IS one, it would be quite expensive? the signals and 4 way flashers run through this one.. But do post if you should find one.. Hmm
  22. God bless you, sir.. Sacrificing your bike for mine.. Many thanks.. however, looks like I was able to find alternate sources than local high prices for this part.. I didn't realize my buddy actually tried to pull the relay apart but soon realized these are made NOT to be pulled apart.. quite interesting.. Once I get the new on installed etc.. I'll take the old one apart anyway JUST to see what they are hiding lol.. Aww man.. how many more sleeps til riding season starts? 01 May 2010.. ? (Blessing of the bikes kicks off our season up here.. rain and sleet at times.. )
  23. MANY thanks SkyDoc.. sweet.. Good price.. A gent in Maine has a used one for $20 he's sending me.. I'll risk the $20 for a used one but now know where to find alternate parts at decent prices.. wow. $76 is indeed a better price than I can get locally.. CDN $ being high on the US $ lately, still a good price.. Thanks again!
  24. Hey young fella.. how's life down there? Kevin and I are still planning on making a visit this may / june hehe.. part number on the relay is as such: DENSO 066500-4120 FB257H there's a gent on eBay with one for sale, waiting on a reply from him.. his listing says its for a 99 - 01 but not sure if it works on newer models.. everyone is in the $20 - 30 range for a used one. but there are never any guarantees that they will work and no refunds.. well same as a new one actually.. let me know if you find anything.. I have to jump on the first one I can find so I can put a stop to the weinership order.. thanks M8
  25. right side of screen? Couldn't find their link on here but found it elsewhere.. unfortunately, though they list several 'sets' of relays, none of them seem to match the one I'm looking for.. several similar looking pinout relays but too large or squat looking to be a match.. still searching.. thanks M8, much appreciated
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