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Seaking

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Everything posted by Seaking

  1. LOL.. if ANY job deserves duct tape, plugging the AIS is one of them... Nice line! lol And I know where you went with that one As Red Green said "If the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy".. the man with the duct tape..
  2. LOL.. I can attest to the scary feeling when you first take this bike to the rev limiter in all gears (if possible).. I could not make myself go from 1st through 3rd and hit the rev limiter (speed limits aren't high enough around here to find out where the speed limiter hits in 4th However, I had to put ear plugs in to block the engine noise and quickly felt where the rev limiter is on this bike!! wow.. and what 'giddyap and go' power!! Ride it like ya stole it.. and feel the rev limiter..
  3. The "EASY" way is to remove the front fairing, unbolt the bucket, unhook the adjuster rod to gain easy access to the rear of the headlight bucket. I could have probably gotten the bulb changed out quicker this way than the amount of time and effort you had spent frik and frakking around the hard way.. Yes, going the 'easy' way is more work but dang, it's a lot easier..
  4. Best thing is to find out now if you can do it instead of later. Take a friend with you and take the bike out on the firm grass lawn and lay it down, and carefully pick it up.. Then, you'll have the confidence in case you actually do drop the bike..
  5. You've heard that saying "it's not IF you ever drop your bike, it's WHEN".. everyone will drop a bike in their biking career, sooner or later. I'd been biking since 16 yrs old waaaaay back when Centurion was a rank, not a tank.. and I had never ever ever dropped a bike until I got the RSV and I've dropped it so many times now, it's second nature how to pick it up, no kidding. However, when I got the bike 2 years ago, one of the first things I did do was riding it up on the lawn and carefully laid it down and practiced picking it up. I actually often use my own bike to demonstrate how to pick up bikes on the motorcycle safety courses.. Anyone can pick up a 300 lbs 250 cc bike, As the previous responders stated, lift with your legs, pushing your butt against the bike technique works best.. no matter how tall you are. (kickstand, in gear etc etc as required.)
  6. Wondering why you didn't do it the "EASY" way instead????
  7. The wheel bearings? Simple stuff, the images are in the manual.. ? Or do you mean the neck bearings? If able to I'll grab some shots..
  8. Yeah it's just a small amount of grease required.. as suggested by others to make it easier to install and remove and to foreign matter out. As I mentioned earlier, it's for the 'peace of mind' that I'm replacing all the parts. I'm getting the parts at a very good price so it's worth the while to replace them and the other parts as well. Same the neck bearings, I'm having them replaced instead of 'repacking' them.. might as well put new ones in for a few dollars more.
  9. Thanks but already ordered new axle and bearings etc etc from another source, I figured that yeah I could get them cheaper from pinwall if they have it but in what shape? Got a good price so no worries.
  10. Hmm another trip down to Texas? Hmmmm 5 days there and 4 days back.. Hmmm
  11. Page 7-7 indicates lubricating the front axle amongst other items with lithium soap based grease, so yeah, lubrication is indicated. He said it was dry and seized up hence the problem with removing the axle bolt. For peace of mind and safety I'll be ordering a new axle and bearings and seals etc.. costs around $150 for the whole setup.. sucks but better safe than sorry.. I do plan to keep this bike for a long while.. (I better, I've put enough new parts on it 45,000 miles in two years I've had it.. (65,000 miles total now)
  12. Well here is a cautionary tale about whom you entrust your bike to do 'work' on it.. Make sure they know what they are doing, and that if it's an indy shop, at least have a frikken book and qualified techs. I just had my front tire replaced by a local shop who called me to inform me that there is something wrong with my front axle.. Ut oh.. They said they had a beast of a time turning the axle out after removing the pinch bolt and when it finally let loose, it was bone dry and in horrific shape. Worse on that, the threads show signs of 'firing' which I believe means steel on aluminum friction heat did some damage in there somewhere. He found melted or ground metal in the threads etc. Good news is that after cleaning out the threads, he's found them to be in good enough shape to be 'serviceable' both on the axle and fork end. Bad news is that it's highly recommended getting a new axle and a helicoil insert on the fork to 100% make sure all is good. When questioned if at all possible that it was just a hell of a lot of highway riding that might have taken all the grease off the axle or heavy rains etc contributing to the situation, he shook his head and said, no.. whom ever installed this did not do it properly. If it was my shop, I'd be responsible for repairing your bike.. of course he knows it wasn't his shop who did that last tire change so it was a nice statement all the same, I'd hold him to it.. However, I DO know which shop did it and man.. VERY disappointed with them since they had always done my tires. I'll purchase from them again but never have their monkeys touch the bike again.. wow.. how scary is that! And this after a 7500 mile road trip through the USA.. now to hunt for a new axle and then get this fixed up properly. (recommendations?) Goose gave me some keen pointers about tire installations, and what to "demand" when having a shop do your tires.. of which this shop actually do every time.. he saw the junk the other shop left behind, the same shop that nearly killed my front axle. Shame, they 'were' highly reputable.. until now. Word of caution, ensure the indy shops you deal with know of what they talk about.. Hence why I carry a DVD with the shop manuals on it with me when I travel.. just in case.
  13. Yes, that fuel filter should really stop all that clicking now What's the Water Wetter do for your cooling system? Let us know if you're still clicking after the beveling work.. Cheers M8
  14. Wow, a lot of work to go through just to find out it's the simplest of things in life that not only trips you up but does a Nelson HA HA on ya.. (The Simpsons reference) And this is after you went to great pains to explain to me about the choke linkages and stickiness sometimes associated with some fuel problems on this bike when we had my carbs apart last month.. But it's good to hear it was nothing more than just that.. Thanks for the info update M8.. Have to you also that my local riding style fuel mileage has gone up nicely as well since I got back.. with the mixture of back roads, city and highway tooling around I typically do, I find my fuel consumption has gone done enough to notice the difference.. All due to the work we did on the bike in Dallas.. yay!
  15. "thin" coat of grease on the back side of the pads, what does this do? Does it act somewhat like the other products you add to stop the squeal and chatter of brakes? Interesting..
  16. As Goose commented, if it's blocked you can't clean it out but perhaps all is not yet lost. I ran into the same problem about 5 days after having my carbs pulled off the bike and 'serviced' at Goose's garage recently and on the way home, the bike started back firing when coming off the throttle from highway speeds and such.. horrible noise.. it wasn't till the next morning when starting the bike that I notice the left rear jug cold at idle but hot at open throttle, much similar to what you're experiencing. And as Goose states, if it's plugged, its plugged. In my case I was facing a full carb pull away from home but as long as the bike was running well on highway speeds, I felt I could get home. But a quick stop at a keen dealership service dept got me fixed up real quick. After I explained to the tech guy what was done to the bike recently and what was happening with the backfiring, no exhaust leaks, all vacuum ports properly sealed etc, he explained the same thing Goose did but suggested a possible save move to do. He drained that rear jug's carb, in the hopes that perhaps, in hopes against hopes that what ever was blocking the pilot jet might simply dislodge and drain out. When he opened the drain, very little fuel came out. When he opened one of the other drains, a heck of a lot of fuel came out. He started the bike and that rear left jug was hotter than hot, just like the other jugs (I have a burn on my finger from testing it lol). This was a couple of thousand miles ago, a couple of weeks ago and its still working all 100% smooth as the day I left Goose's garage a few weeks prior. For once, something on my bike that 'broke' was fixed so quickly and easily.. =) So I don't know if it will help with your issue at all, but perhaps, in hopes against all hopes, like it did with mine, drain your jug's carb and see what happens.. it might unclog it enough to get it cleaned out or it may not. Easy to do, it will save you from having to remove the carbs from the bike, which is a big job if you've never done it before and expensive if a shop does it for you. Best of luck..
  17. Thanks for the report Goose.. I had mine pulled before the big trip by the shop who changed my rear brake disc and they reported there 'something' of a lube on there and cleaned it out, put new grease in and all's good that's all good. He felt it all looked like it should for a bike with the mileage mine has.
  18. High Intensity Discharge. Your typical light on your bike runs 55 / 65 watts for high-lo beams. An HID puts out a heck of a lot more light at only 35 watts. The version I installed is a single bulb HI LO beam by means of an actuator that moves the bulb into a receptacle to make it show more or less light, thus making it a single bulb HI LO. Only $50-60 and dirt simple to install. These are insanely bright.. Here's another line you can add to your signature: You can pick your nose, you can pick your friends but you can't pick your friend's nose. Cheers
  19. ahh good point yes, the side of the bag cover has a split it in from the tool falling on it, I should be able to lay a bead on the inside of the lid to keep it solid and stopping the crack from propagating any farther along the lid. Thanks again for the keen tips.
  20. I have the Utopia on mine, which came with the bike when I bought it used. My buddy didn't want one on his bike last year but after that recent road trip to the south we did, he couldn't wait to get one on his bike. He went with the Diamond R model and loves it. Both work great, simple installs and makes life sooo much better when on long trips. Helps with posture whilst riding..
  21. Speaking of which, what's the glue you used to make repairs to my front lower fairing? I have to make repairs to that side bag after all, I found it cracked two days later =( Good repairs on the lower fairing though, wow.. great stuff.
  22. I also have an 06 Midnight and I also noticed mine is faster than the '07 and '08 models.. And the risers will fit all those bikes..
  23. Could be just the tach however the bike is fully tuned up and carb synched.. All done that down in Dallas, and re-verified when I got home (new plugs etc).. Kinda odd..
  24. I'll have to try one of those.. see how that works.. Not sure if I like the reservoir mounted one though.. but meh.. tach is a tach even if it's tacky.. ?
  25. Its very bright yes. What's good about it also is that if you're going away on a long road trip, bring a typical H4 bulb with you as a spare, you can simply disable the HID and use your stock bulb back as it was before. No worries. How ever, with the abuse we put our bikes through on this past trip, I think the system will last a while. Scott in BC who sells the items stated that if you were to receive a lemon system, it would fail within the first 5 hours of use.. Once you've gone past the 5 to 10 hours and nothing's happened, you can pretty well rest assured the system will work for a long time. Worth every penny.
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